Honda-SOHC

Also. don't forget that if it runs on 3 cylinders, the problem cannot be with points, condenser, or coil, because each of these serves 2 cylinders using the "wasted spark" principal. Look at plug lead, cap and plug itself. But if used very infrequently I would suspect a carburettor problem. Happy New Year!

Welcome to the world of Honda micro-surgery! It's not so much a difficult job, more of a time consuming adventure. Once you have delved into the hidden depths of the headlamp shell to dis-connect all the relevant wires, group them all together and securely tie a long piece of string/cord round them so that when you have disembowelled them through the handlebars, that's the method to use to replace them. From what I remember, the internals of the switch cluster are not exactly DIY friendly, it's a lot less hassle to install a new unit. Regarding the 'buzzing' solenoid, first check all the terminals are nice and clean and shiny, and then check the battery voltage. If the voltage is OK, and you are feeling brave, bridge the two large terminals on the solenoid with a screwdriver, if the engine spins over then it is probably a knackered solenoid. In my years of ownership, have replaced solenoid once, and handlebar switches three times. Keep smiling and Merry Christmas. Regards, Mick.

Hi Matt, Welcome to the "Grazed Knuckles" brigade. Regarding the carbs and tank, I left my bike standing for approx. 11 years, inside of tank was perfectly ok, fuel had 'gone off', just cleaned tap and replaced fuel line from tank to carbs. The carbs, now that's a different ball game! Removing them is a bit of a pain, but nowhere near as bad as trying to remove the float bowls whilst still installed. Because I had not drained the float bowls either, every jet had to be replaced, and I then refitted carbs only to find fuel running from overflow tubes when first turned on! I had omitted to remove and clean the brass spindles that the floats pivot upon, all gunged up and stopping the floats from operating. Whilst carbs are removed, have a dig through all the auction sites as I managed to obtain a nice set of socket headed screws to secure the float bowls with, meaning that if needed, the bowls can be removed more easily in situ using a small Allen key. Not too sure about your driver's footrest position, and it's definitely got the wrong gear lever, it should have two rose joints and a Johnson Rod for adjustment. Obviously the battery on mine was knackered, so every few weeks I just used to spin the motor over by using a set of 'jump' leads hooked up to my car battery, stops all the seals from going too hard. If you go on the "Flickr" website and just type in 400/4 there are loads of pics, which if you zoom in on them you can see what I mean re. gear linkage/footrest, might be worth checking on the rear brake pedal as well, it should have a guard fitted to it to stop your foot rubbing on the clutch cover.
    Regards the front brake, as they say in the trade:- "They all do that mate", remove caliper, new piston & seal, clean up the pivot pin and coat it with copperslip anti-seize on re-assembly. Have fun. Regards, Mick.

Just as an aside to the 'fuses' discussion, last year I had a problem with the main fuse failing every now and again, which obviously led to leaving you at the roadside with a dead bike! Replaced fuse, everything worked fine with no obvious signs of a short anywhere. This even led an occasion when I had the fuse fail, had run out of spares, was 6 miles from home, and it was starting to rain. In a desperate attempt to just be able to get home, the only thing I had in my pocket was a screwdriver 'bit' set. Yes. the bits are a perfect fit in the fuse holder. Started bike, switched on everything possible, and looked for smoke! Got home safely, spoke to a vehicle electrician, who asked to see the old fuse which I still had. It had not 'blown' in the centre of the fuse element, which signifies a short, but had let go at one of the end caps. He informed me that this is caused by it struggling to draw current. We removed the fuse holder, after disconnecting the battery!, and lo and behold, when we seperated the plastic plug behind, all the terminals inside were a lovely green colour. Purchased a cheap set of jewellers' files, 45 minutes patiently cleaning up each spade and connector, problem solved. Plastic plug is now totally encased in insulating tape to try and keep elements at bay. I have written all this drivel thinking that if you are going to all the trouble of messing about with the fuses, spend a few extra minutes and check that 'orrible plug.

Having suffered in the past from trying to fit without checking first, a couple of hopefully relevant points.
    If you succeed in fitting shocks with lower eyelets, then surely they would not be sitting in line vertically, plus the thing that would worry me is that all the vertical loading on the lower bolt would be at one point only giving the effect of a guillotine. With the clevis type, the loading is shared equally between two points on the bolt. Hope this makes sense, because I'm not an expert!
     EXPERT = Ex (Has Been), Spurt (Drip Under Pressure)
               Regards, Mick.

Hi Dave, a very slightly irrelevant answer to your query, as I cannot comment on the quality of the repro exhaust,(yet!). Whilst it is a lot of money I painfully remember, in 1973, having to purchase a new exhaust system for my 15 month old CB750K2. The price equated to approx 20% of the value of the bike, which, if your 400 is in reasonable condition, comes out at a very similar ratio. In case you're wondering, I purchased a Dresda 4 into 1, bitch to fit, very loud, had to be removed to change oil filter, and just did not look right, so I agree with the path you're taking. Regards, Mick.

Hiya, fitted one of these gubbins last year, can't remember the brand got it from DS. Made up my own bracket to fit it where the old voltage control unit was, there was enough play in the wiring to allow this. Bracket was made from half of an old brass window hinge, cut and drilled to suit, no rust, no paint, and a good earth! Had to start bike on kickstarter, had only just made it home, meter was showing 15.65 volts which did not surprise me with a nearly flat battery. Have not checked it again since, head in sand attitude! Have had to add miniscule amounts of top-up fluid about 3 times since then. If it aint broke, don't fix it. Had a similar unit as a standard fitment on a Stiga mower, when that one went wrong it gave plenty of warning, smell from battery which was very hot, and a reading of 19.5 volts!!! So don't panic quite yet.
  Regards, Mick.