This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Topics - eight0
1
« on: February 16, 2022, 11:17:50 AM »
I am moving out of the country and am unable to take this kit with me. It has been used so the chemicals are all in liquid state. Kit includes tank heater, electrolyte circulator (Pump), power supply, anodes, and all chemicals in the buckets. It cost £168 when I bought it last year. https://www.gaterosplating.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_60_96&product_id=232Open to offers. It will need collecting from Walton-On-Thames KT12.
2
« on: November 03, 2021, 06:13:51 PM »
3
« on: April 20, 2021, 09:12:27 AM »
I'm after Genuine jets for my CB550.
I've bought some larger jets from NRP but I don't trust them. AllensPerformance don't stock the push in mains and they don't have any 40 Pilots in stock as far as I can see.
Is there anywhere else I can order from?
4
« on: November 04, 2020, 03:06:44 PM »
I just went to pick up the Cylinder Block from the machine shop having instructed them to bore to 1x oversize to .25mm.
I bought a piston which arrived from DSS yesterday and asked if he could just double check the measurements. He said the piston was actually '1thou' bigger than it should be. He suggested I send the rest of the pistons over so he could bore to the correct size for each cylinder.
Are these pistons known to be a bit rubbish? They did have Chinese lettering on the box. Not sure what do do, do I sent the DSS ones back and buy a different set or just send all the pistons to the machine shop?
5
« on: November 03, 2020, 06:49:07 PM »
I think I know the answer to this before I ask it.
Can you Cerakote on engine cases, head etc. The nature of ceramic coatings is that it retains heat. These engines are air cooled so anything that retains heat is probably a bad idea.
Fine for covers not for bits that need to keep cool.
Is my thinking right? Has anyone tried it on the engine? I like the idea of it because it's so durable and I don't have to upset the other half by ruining the oven.
7
« on: October 02, 2020, 12:22:02 PM »
Can anyone advise on how to remove the rocker arms on a newer style 4 shaft cover?
I've read that there are 'pins' holding the shafts in. Are these the 4 bolts under the breather cover? They seem really tight in there. I've tried a hammer and brass drift but don't want to too mad! do they need to be pressed out?
8
« on: June 26, 2020, 01:50:48 PM »
Hi All, Given that my engine has seen better days, although it is repairable, I will have to at least buy a piston kit, new Cam, tensioner, seals, chains and gaskets. There's a 550 Engine going on Ebay which looks a lot cleaner than mine (on the outside anyway) and the seller says he's had it apart to replace the tensioner. He said the pistons are original but did not have a compression tester to give me any readings. I'm thinking, rather than spend lots of time and money with my current engine, I buy this one to get me on the road and maybe build my original engine up over time. My question is, whats a good price for an engine that is 'apparently' in good order? Maybe the seller is a member.. who knows https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264769230680?ViewItem=&item=264769230680
9
« on: October 19, 2019, 12:30:27 PM »
I'm just trying to fit some 'bolt on' rear sets which are meant for a 550k. Apparently they will fit the F model (which I have) with some slight frame modification which I've done.. but the lower engine bolt doesn't seem to be long enough.
Do the K and F models have different lower rear engine bolt lengths?
11
« on: September 04, 2019, 04:38:12 PM »
Last week I finally got round to sending my wheel hubs off to Hagon to be built with Excel rims and SS spokes. I left the rear hub assembly whole and asked them to take the bearings out and polish the hubs for me. I just had a call from them to say that they have made a bearing retainer tool, had the hub clamped to a milling machine, applied heat etc etc but cannot get the thing undone. They have advised me to find a new hub... I could ask them to send it back to me and try myself but if they can't do it when it's clamped in a milling machine then I am unlikely to be able to do it with just my bench vice.
Anyone got any pearls of wisdom?
12
« on: July 05, 2019, 03:40:18 PM »
Hi All,
What's the go to for a Lithium Ion compatible Reg Rec combo for a CB550? I know the Ricks ones seem to work but it's eye-wateringly expensive with the shipping ($165)
13
« on: April 08, 2019, 12:04:25 PM »
I sent my dirt bike suspension off to Brook suspension recently and was impressed with their service. They also do fork re-chroming. https://www.brooksuspension.co.uk/best-sellers/motorcycle-fork-rechroming-service-for-stanchions-both-legs/£165 for both legs is far cheaper than getting an aftermarket set. Has anyone used them for rechroming or is there another place people tend to go to? Mine are not in great condition but I spoke to them on the phone and they said they've not come across a set that can't be saved yet.. [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
14
« on: February 04, 2019, 11:39:45 AM »
15
« on: December 03, 2018, 03:23:39 PM »
Hi All,
I am a new member and having posted on the introductions board I thought I should officially start my project thread. (Shamelessly copied and pasted from my intorduction post)
I have not had chance to go over the bike properly yet, I was told it has compression but I haven't tried to turn it over yet as I want to soak some oil in the barrels first. Wires are a rats nest, missing one coil, clutch is very stiff - could just be the cable, Carbs are all there and are unseazed, though I took one of the bowls off and its full of varnish. Tank has a big dent on one side, possibly a hole, need to do some more poking with a screwdriver. Wheels look un-dented and appear straight. Headers are ok and un-dented but the collector is toast and the exhaust is missing All in all looks like I've got a big project on my hands. The clock is showing 56k so I think I may need to do a full engine rebuild on this one - which for me is going to be interesting as I've only ever rebuilt carbs before. I have restored one bike before - A Yamaha XS2 and although I did a lot of work on it,nit was running when I got it so I didn't delve into the engine further than replacing seals and rebuilding the carbs so I'm going to need a lot of help from the gentlefolk of this forum to guide me through it.
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]
On the advice from members in my introduction post, I am going to try and start the bike before I go any further. I've got the carbs ready to clean and have started collecting bits I need. So far I have:
another coil to replace the missing one Some cheap oil oil filters new plugs new plug caps cheap battery compression tester aux fuel tank
I'll need to temporarily wire it up to get the bike running as the loom is a mess. I'm no electrician but after a bit of head scratching I drew up this diagram.. will it work? I'm not worried about wiring in the alternator or reg/rec, (I don't think it need them)? as I just want to see if it will run. I wanted to check it has oil pressure which is why I added the light and thought I may as well add the kill switch and starter switch in too.
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]
I'll give the carbs a clean up this week, not a full strip down just yet - just enough to hopefully get it running.
|