Honda-SOHC

bloke offered me 4k for my orange bike and 500 quid for my other 1976 750 and although its basically a barn find from the states it can be made running again its just been partially dismantled for chroming purposes it was running when it came. I could break it for more than 500 gee whizz.

That's my little baby, did you notice the post on the tree "d" washers, I googled it and saw where they sit but my bike doesn't have them, I checked the other bike that's not been started and it doesn't have them either, is this a mod perhaps.

It would be better if you put a link
Cheers
Bitsa

I'm 57 and the phootur is worked by magic and not petrol, I would have liked to have posted pics on here but links are in chains and posts are what my wee postie does. Cant even use my smart phone and I thought the phone was smart but obviously not smart enough eh. Tried to get my daughter to show me how to down load music with all that pasting stuff but she gave up trying and did them all for me only to find when I went to the gym I couldn't work her ipod thingy fokin swish yur finger this way and then around the circle bit for something else ffs what ever happened to the buttons.

Quote from: Waggles on July 02, 2015, 10:15:57 AM

My F1s clutch plates tend to stick together when left so initially I have to wait a bit for the clutch to stop rattling before engaging first  apart from that I get no drag. Not using synthetic oils.

What are your symptoms exactly?

Using motul 10/40 semi but I get a drag on the clutch on my cb1000 when cold so might be an oil thing.

Never got a chance to do anymore today stuck it on the centre stand bent down to work on my exhausts and my back went out, so I'm fairly miserable at the minute. need to rest up because I have a ticket for the super bike racing on sunday at knockhill.

However thanks for the help folk.

my cb 750k 1974 is dragging the clutch a bit, been looking at the threads and it seems to be a common fault.

I have adjusted the lever inside the casing and changed the cable but although all the parts are moving properly it still drags a bit. I have been riding it about and perhaps its just me being fussy but I cant adjust the cable leaving a little slack it needs adjusted up. but it doesn't slip.

I have memories of my 250 back in the 70s doing the same thing.

is this something that's normal on these old bikes, but  if not any advice before I pull the plates out. phew one step forwards and two back.

Hi, I am not 100% sure, and I no the gurus will be able to help better, but the two possible options are (if available on your model) the stop screw on the carb holder plate/stay, this can be adjusted to increase idle, or when balancing the carbs, if your has the lock nut and adjustable nut to set the balancing, this too can be set to raise the needle higher, thus increasing the idle? but wait for the top members to confirm.
http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb750k0-four-general-export_model14352/partslist/E26.html#results
No 4 and No 40
good luck
John

Could be several things that affect idle speed and not just carburators.

 Is it running on all 4 cylinders ie all 4 exhausts hot.

Is timing ok and points and condensers ok.

Is it drawing air, spray some wd40 or something similar around manifold rubbers then around each carb in turn. it will increase revs if drawing air.

Is the smoke ok out exhausts or is one or more carbs running rich or weak also check spark plugs all should be a nice light brown colour.

The simple thing is that you are not adjusting the idle screw on the carb or carbs mine has one screw/hand wheel that adjusts all four. if you are turning the mixture all over the place then that's wrong any more than a half turn then something is wrong.

try these and see how you get on.

Mines a 1974 750 and prior to the carb level adjustment it was running rich on 1 and 2, on over run it was popping like it was running lean but other than that it wasn't too bad.

Took carbs off trying to do it in place is impossible, took the float bowls off and one carb was well out of adjustment " the 26mm" from the others but the others also needed adjustment to bring it within the 26mm .

Here is where it is so vague these carbs have a cut out on either side so the tool I made up "credit card" sits on the gasket it has to because of the cut out.  I imagine if the tool was thicker it might bridge this cut out

Having adjusted the carbs to 26mm from the gasket it now runs like a burst ball, its hesitating opening the throttle and surges up suddenly like it was getting a chunk of fuel and then settles off idle.

If the float is too high because I set it from the gasket then its running lean, yes/no ?

Does anybody confidently know where the 26mm is measured from the threads don't show it clearly because they use a Honda tool which is thicker and probably sits on the edge and not the gasket.

Thanks for that folk, job for Monday and another 8 quid for a plate.

My bike is a 1st January 1974 but when I spoke with the planks they said unless I got proof from Honda then they would register it end of jan and I wouldn't get free road tax. I contacted a dealer who contacted Honda japan but it was all on paper and it would take time to source so I went ahead without proof and they registered it 1st jan anyway and I guess my cheque is on the way back to me because its free tax I think.

In fairness the registration had me beat until I saw it next to my other bike and the coin dropped, too much of a rush I guess to get out to play.