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Topics - Winterfield
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« on: August 06, 2020, 08:57:26 AM »
Hi all, I bought some new piston rings from cruzinimage for my 400/4 (3 piece oil control rings). I've checked the ring gaps for all the rings in the barrels, and they measure up fine (usually .35). When I try to install the pistons on the bench, I can't get the piston past the oil control ring. I've confirmed this by removing the other two rings, and can't fit the piston in the bore with just the oil rings. It looks like the same problem mentioned here: http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,12513.0.htmlTheir solution was to just use the old rings, which is certainly an option for me. But I'd like to understand if anyone else has come across this, and how they resolved it? Cheers
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« on: June 01, 2020, 07:17:34 PM »
Hi all, I've managed to get my 400 up and running after much work on the body, repainting etc. Today was a mixed bag. I just couldn't get the bike to start and idle. It would start very briefly with full choke and some throttle, then it would die. It turns out you need a fair old whack of fuel in the tank to fill the floats, and they just weren't filling up. Once I got the fuel situation sorted, I managed to get it to start and idle with full choke (very smokey), then if I turn the choke off, it shoots up the RPM (without any throttle input) at which point I hit the kill switch. The idle screw is all the way out, and I don't -think- there are any obvious air leaks, because I tested with some squirts of carb cleaner around the place. What I suspect is that the slides are too high, and are letting in too much air at idle. If I understand it, it's probably best to use the balancing screws to have the carbs quite low (but equal), then use the idle screw to lift them if it idles too low? Once it got a little late to be rev bombing the neighbourhood, I turned my attention to a spare set of carbs I have. While dismantling, I may have used a tiny little bit too much force trying to get the main jet out. I managed to create a couple of hairline cracks in the carrier for the main jet. They don't go down too far, maybe 2-3mm. Is this likely to cause any issues? 
3
« on: May 27, 2020, 09:36:43 AM »
Hi all, Due to budget constraints I've opted to get a cheap megaphone silencer from Classic Bike Shop ( https://www.classicbikeshop.co.uk/short-universal-megaphone-silencer.html). Will this be likely to change the back pressure enough to warrant re-jetting the carbs? I'd prefer not to, with the intention of buying a replica 400 silencer when (if?) they become available again. Would adding a baffle change the back pressure? Cheers.
4
« on: May 11, 2020, 09:17:16 AM »
Hi all,
I've been keeping myself busy with my restoration, and have just stripped and repainted my clocks.
The trip reset meter grommet on the speedo was wrecked, and it looks like cb750faces is out of stock until July(?).
I'd like to put the speedo back together now, and install the grommet later when they're available.
Will this work, or does the grommet need to be installed before reassembling the speedo?
Cheers,
Ken
5
« on: September 18, 2019, 10:36:36 AM »
Hi all, I'm progressing with my ground up rebuild, and I am tantalizingly close to having a rolling chassis. I've replaced the steering head bearings with tapered bearings (All Balls I think). The problem I'm having is that I suspect I didn't clear up the frame well enough before pushing the bearing sleeve in. This left approx a 1mm gap you can see in the photos. This is causing the thread top to have very little thread to turn onto. It's turning approx 360 degrees before it's tight. My question is: how important is it that this part is torqued down? Does the steering nut provide the torque to tighten everything up? Or does the head top thread need to torque down more than 1 turn? What's the proper technique for pushing these bearing sleeves in?   
6
« on: September 11, 2019, 09:17:55 AM »
Hi all,
If anyone has a sprocket retainer and spacer for the 400/4 handy, would you please send through the dimensions for both?
I need to know the inner circlip dimensions, plus the spacer inner/outer diameter and thickness.
Cheers,
Ken
7
« on: March 26, 2019, 09:54:57 PM »
I wanted to do a project log for my own documentation, to show my project off to any friends who may be interested, and to share the journey and any interesting tips with anyone else who may be interested. I'll not put dates on these first set of posts, as it's been a long while in the making, and fairly slow progress, but it keeps me busy. Firstly, the bike: '75 CB400/4. Red. 2 1/2 engines, one seized, the other in the frame. Original wheels, forks, bunch of other bits and pieces. Bought without seeing it running (smrt).   Naked! 
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« on: March 26, 2019, 09:42:32 PM »
So I was struggling to get the rear wheel dampers out of the hub, as well as the bolts themselves, so rather than risk destroying the hub I handed it over to a local tuning and machine shop here in Edinburgh. They were able to remove the bushings, but to do so they drilled into the hub from the back to get them out. Have they ruined my hub? They assured me that it won't have affected the structure/performance.  
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« on: March 26, 2019, 09:36:27 PM »
Hi all, I'm Kenneth. I'm an Aussie who decided to move to Scotland for some reason, and ended up in Edinburgh. I picked up a CB400/4 a while back and have been slowly tearing it down for restoration. It came with a spare engine (which I expect was the original as it matches the paperwork), the original wheels & forks, and a bunch of odds and ends. Looking forward to restoring it close(ish) to it's former glory. I have a million and one questions, some of which have probably already been answered on these forums but I haven't managed to find the right threads yet. My pre-teardown bike here:
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