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Messages - deltarider
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31
« on: April 02, 2024, 11:58:16 AM »
I love that bike. Best of the CB500/550 series I have ever seen. Also the best pic. What happened to the RH side mirror?
32
« on: April 02, 2024, 10:04:13 AM »
Old Konis are difficult if not impossible to get parts for, the later ones you gan get parts from Ikon
That's misleading info, I'm afraid. Parts for the 'old' Koni's are still available through Ikon, as Koni arranged in the deal - when they sold the motorcycle shocks division to the Australians - that Ikon would continue to provide the service. The number on my Koni's is 7610-1302. They are still available, same number, only with the name Ikon. They were and still are popular. I wonder if you have been sold the wrong type, for another Honda 500 or 550.
33
« on: April 01, 2024, 09:49:55 PM »
Is there a number on yours?
34
« on: April 01, 2024, 08:35:42 PM »
This is quite a coincidence! I was about to post two pics of Koni's with a question myself and maybe it will give you a clue. The other day I was refitting the LH side mufflers, when I saw something I had never noticed before: the clevis of my model Koni shocks are off center. I suppose I must have fit them correctly decades ago as they still function flawlessly. Erny, look at the pictures and maybe your answer is there. Oh... and I have no issues something is touching other parts like the chainguard, so if your Koni's are like mine I would twist them 180o.
35
« on: April 01, 2024, 08:30:23 AM »
They are the cross drilled open ended ones. So far no one has reported the solid airscrews, not on the K models, so it's almost certain the American Honda Parts List has it wrong as far as the CB550K2*. All mixture screws were just one turn out... 1 1/ 2 turn out ± 3/ 8 was recommended for these models. ... and the slide needles are all set to the second position from the needle tip. Needles seem high and mixture screw seems less screwed out that usual - the 2 balance each other out?
Confusing. Please clarify. In Hondaspeak we always measure the needle's position from top and not from the pointed tip. Needles seem high and mixture screw seems less screwed out that usual - the 2 balance each other out?
On the contrary. One turn out is quite rich. As far as the needle, it depends what you meant. If they are in 4th from top, they are in standard position. * p.C10 Ref. No.7 SCREW SET A in: https://www.honda4fun.com/dwnload/Part-List/CB550/CB550-K0-K1-K2-Parts-List.pdf
36
« on: March 30, 2024, 07:53:32 AM »
Sohron has learned me that the bracket of the lower pipe is supposed to be at the inside of the frame eye and the bracket of the upper pipe at the outside. So, unhappy with both brackets on the outside of the frame eye, I have yesterday (re)fitted both exhausts left hand side, with the help of a friend. Thanks to Ashimoto I know how to check the brackets. The RH side was allright. BTW, I've noticed that most CB500/550s out there, have it wrong.
Sohron's description is very useful, but because he does not mention fastening the brackets to the mufflers, I have made an attempt for a full step by step guide, which can be used for new and used exhausts alike.
I recommend to consult Sohron's pictures in the process. They are brilliant.
Please comment and feel free to correct my English.
Assuming you have all parts on the floor next to the bike, this is how I would do it. In the following I'll concentrate on the left hand side.
1. Apply some copaslip on the threads of the 6mm studs (head) and test the nuts will turn smoothly.
2. Dito for the 8 mm studs at the mufflers and the 10 mm hanger bolt and their nuts.
3. Check the brackets are in good order and not bent (you may consult pics below, courtesy Ashimoto).
4. Smear some vaseline or silicone grease where the brackets will contact the mufflers.
5. Dito for the balancetube that is to be between the mufflers at the rear end.
6. Position the brackets onto the mufflers. Note how Honda designed the holes, so make sure brackets can still slide somewhat!
7. Have the footpeg* with its 10mm bolt and its (spring)washer** at hand.
8. Check you have removed the old gaskets from the head and insert new ones. A dot of vaseline will help them stick in place.
9. Semi hang in the upper exhaust in front, just like Sohron shows. With one hand slide the JOINT over the studs making sure the two collars – their flanges facing the JOINT - stay in the correct position. Leave it there for the moment and let the rear end of the muffler rest on a high enough pillow or mattress. This helps a lot. No matter how concentrated you are, there is a risk a pipe will drop. No problem for a new one. Dropping a used pipe however can loosen the inner rusted damper.
10. Semiposition the footpeg*, its 10 mm (spring)washer** and bolt.
11. Now, with one hand covering the front JOINT, so everything there will stay in place, raise the muffler's end and use thumb to push the 10mm hanger bolt into the frame eye, so it now protrudes the latter by 1 or 2 mm. Leave it dangling there for the moment.
12. Position the connecting balancetube loosely over the little pipe of the lower exhaust.
13. Now repeat step 9 for the lower exhaust. On the LH side this pipe will route behind the side stand.
14. Raise its muffler end and position he top of its bracket on the inside of the frame eye, while allowing the balancetube to fit the alining short vertical pipes.
15. Push the 10mm hanger bolt fully in and fit loosely the (spring)washer** and nut.
16. At front equally fasten the 6mm nuts till some resistance is felt. Then semifasten the hanger bolt. Semifasten bracket nuts.
17. Before fastening further, check everything is in the right position. Check all bolts of the oilpan are accessible from below.
18. Fasten the 6mm nuts in front a bit more, then the big hanger bolt a bit more, then the 8mm bracket nuts a bit more. Now it is time for a final check to see everything is in the right position. The balance tubes and oilpan bolts are indicators.
19. Tighten the 6mm nuts in front. Gently! Do NOT use a torque wrench! Then tighten the big 10mm hanger bolt. Tighten the 4 bracket nuts. Finally for the 10mm hanger bolt, you may use a torque wrench.
20. Fasten crosshead of the balance tube
(Sigh!) If only Honda had made the exhausts in two parts to be connected with a joint halfway. So headers and pipes in one and the wider mufflers as separate parts.
* Later models, like the K2 had angled footpegs.
** The various CB500/550 parts lists show the plain washer and the spring washer in different positions. I don't think it matters much where you fit them.
37
« on: March 29, 2024, 08:49:37 PM »
Personally I see little justification for using anything other than the original set up for normal road use - a short metal brake pipe & a normal hose.
Same here. Hoses on a CB500/550 are very short and I doubt ss lines will make much difference. I still run the same hoses, bike got at the assembly line in around 1976. No sign of wear. Just replaced the brake pump by a repro from CMSNL 45500-300-010P (€ 55,-)* and replaced the pads by SBS 501HF (Street) ceramic pads. Brake pump has a very nice feel. * Normally I opt for Honda genuine parts but friends convinced me. They judged the repro better than the original which is over € 500,-.
38
« on: March 26, 2024, 12:45:58 PM »
Found it: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,185851.msg2152800.html#msg2152800 Ultrasonic bathing is no guarantee. I never needed anything else than carb cleaner and some stranded copper wire. There is no need to separate carbs from the rack ever. One possible exception is leakage of the O-rings at the T-joints. After 47 years mine still don't leak, but in hibernation I keep my carbs in a natural state which is wet. When carbs have been drained for a long time, O-rings will shrink however. In most cases after readmitting fuel in the lines forsaid O-rings will leak at first but giving it some time, they restore themselves into the original size.
39
« on: March 26, 2024, 10:09:25 AM »
Hello Mike, your bike probably is a CB550K2. The old style carbs on this model are relatively easy to clean. I've never needed an ultrasonic bath for my carbs, but my CB500 never sits for longer than 6 months and I take some precautions. Your carbs - probably numbered 087A - can be cleaned manually. Although ultrasonic is an option, there is a risk you will loose a tiny plastic part (#1 carb) in the process. I will try to find the link. The brassware in these oldstyle hardly wears. My parts have been in there for over 140.000 km and there's still no indication of wear. Tip: before you remove the airscrews (in the side of the carbs) turn them fully in (gently!), counting the turns. Write down the position (turns) they were in, for future reference. I'd like to know whether yours has the solid pointed airscrews or the cross drilled open ended ones. You can find a lot of information concerning your model in the parts list here: https://www.honda4fun.com/dwnload/Part-List/CB550/CB550-K0-K1-K2-Parts-List.pdf
40
« on: March 25, 2024, 03:56:33 PM »
The problem with spring clips at the T-joints is, if you forget to position them correctly, their little ears block access to the #2 and #2 airscrews.
41
« on: March 25, 2024, 11:24:25 AM »
Correct length might ensure when run the correct route will avoid kinking.
This ^!! Don't ask me how I know... Don't bother about the wire clips where the tubes connect to the T-joints. They are a nuisance there and for the tubes it's impossible to become loose accidentely. Personally I don't have them at the petcock either, provided I have the 5,5 mm ID tubes.
42
« on: March 19, 2024, 11:42:45 AM »
There used to be aftermarket covers that were transparent.
43
« on: March 17, 2024, 10:01:52 AM »
Never liked the stuff. The result was always poor, leaving the disk somewhat greasy. Yesterday I've used denatured alcohol on sponges that are slightly abrasive. The sponge on the left is my favourite. The white side is a miracle. The bigger white sponge on the right was also good. It's only that later on the package of the latter, I read that it can leave gum residue. No real problem. Wipe the disk once more with denatured alcohol on toilet paper.
In case you wonder what that tiny container with the pink stuff is, my CB Four dealer/mechanic applies it also in the bore of the caliper and the piston, prior to assembly. My late uncle (a car mechanic) also practised that, be it that he used the blue Ate grease. So I think it's safe. The piston, 47 years old, could be used again. The same for the caliper. A friend had put it in his ultrasonic cleaner and after a quick wipe with some denatured alcohol on paper, it was super clean. Today I will fit the repro brake pump 45500-300-010P (CMSNL). A friend had praised its performance.
44
« on: March 16, 2024, 02:48:50 PM »
I often wondered: what can you do to get the CB500 clutch operation as smooth as possible? For instance: is it safe to grease the pushrod with brake grease or is it better to stick to oil?
45
« on: March 16, 2024, 11:21:23 AM »
I have a Jacuzzi in mine that doubles as an ultrasone cleaner. My bike and I often bath together. Bonding!
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