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Topics - martin_uk
1
« on: May 02, 2024, 10:10:56 AM »
Im in the process of reassembling the engine on my 75 CB500K1 basket case that came already stripped.
Crankshaft checked for wear which was minor and well within spec.
Minor marks to crank main shells on 1 and 5 but replaced with new genuine Honda Green shells in line with calculations of housing and journal.
Checked with Plastiguage and all mains came out at 2 thou.
Reassembled with top case down and inserting primary shaft after cases together.
Bearings well oiled and fitted evenly.
Cases closed up easily with light taps with rubber mallet and gradually torqued up as per recommended order but on final torque crank becomes more difficult to turn.
It turns with a spanner on the alternator bolt but feels tighter to turn than I would expect.
I have rebuilt 3 CB750 enfines without this issue.
I have just checked and force required to turn crank is 9 lb ft.
Removed primary shaft and does not change.
Would be interested to hear if any similar issues .
Thanks
Martin
2
« on: April 17, 2024, 11:33:16 AM »
If anyone has the above available would be interested in buying.
A complete primary shaft would be ok as long as sprocket teeth are ok
Its the spring plate that holds main jet.
Let me know price and condition.
Thanks
Martin
3
« on: April 11, 2024, 09:17:17 PM »
Started to reassemble my CB500K1 engine and finding just the bottom end quite a lump to handle. I wanted to double check that it is possible to reassemble everything in the frame once the crank case halves are together and installed and whether anyone else has tried. I have a motorbike lift which means it is easier to work on at comfortable height. I have rebuilt a number of CB750 sohc engines and no option other than to assemble up to cam cover, but I was a few years younger then
4
« on: April 05, 2024, 11:17:41 AM »
As it was already in bits, I didnt get to see how fitted.
In the Haynes manual says to put arm in front of swinging arm and also shows return spring on inside of frame.
It does not work like this and lever binds up with actuator rod end.
Honda manual has a picture that shows arm behind swinging arm and outside spring.
Im guessing that Honda changed before end of K1 production?
Will now try re positioning
5
« on: April 04, 2024, 11:44:49 AM »
Just wondered if any update on repro to match original availability?
I lashed out on new original down pipes and collector but waiting for silencer availability before fitting
6
« on: April 03, 2024, 12:56:34 PM »
Wondering if anyone has already done?
My K1 sub loom is chopped about and multi connector to alternator missing.
Replica K3 subloom from Electrex I have does not appear to have inline fuse and starter solenoid wiring missing.
I can swap the starter wiring into new connector and wondered if anyone already converted one and has any tips?
Thanks
7
« on: February 20, 2024, 12:40:20 PM »
I removed the stem and yoke to check and regrease and wanted to see how many balls are needed in case any had escaped :-)
I was surprised to see in parts book that balls are 1/4 inch rather than metric and there are 37 needed for bike.
I have been caught out many years ago on an old Triumph by fitting too many balls, so checked Haynes manual and different numbers required at each end with Top 18 and bottom 19.
8
« on: June 03, 2023, 12:17:06 PM »
Thought I would enquire on the off chance that someone has spare. Ideally painted in great condition Original colour preferred. Alternatively, any recommendations on reasonable priced painter for repair and paint tank and cowl to good standard. Thanks Martin
9
« on: June 03, 2023, 12:03:57 PM »
Hi Guys Hope someone has come across this before.
My 1978 F1 has the gearbox output shaft with end bolt to retain sprocket rather than the locking plate and 2 bolts.
I know the K7/K8 and F2 had an increased size 630 chain which was heavy and overkill.
I have fitted a 530 chain, but the standard 530 sprocket is 12.7 wide and leaves a gap on end of shaft.
Im look for a 17t 530 sprocket that is 10.7 wide.
Spoke to DS and they can only supply a standard K7/F2 630 sprocket
Has any one encountered this and know of a supplier?
Thanks
Martin
11
« on: February 01, 2023, 12:25:06 PM »
I have see the posts on K models but could not see anything for F1.
The F1 presents extra problems due to rear storage box creating a larger hinged section.
Im thinking of going to Spain this year on my F1 and have not had any luck finding a rear carrier rack.
Any suggestions appreciated.
12
« on: May 07, 2021, 08:19:36 AM »
Genuine jets are expensive but Motorcycle Products do sets of 5 for £7.68 https://www.motorcycleproducts.co.uk/keihin-105-brass-jets/1/016688Keihin 105 Brass Jets Head size 6mm Thread 5mm Pitch 0.80mm Overall length 9mm Thread length 5mm Made in Japan Many other sizes and for other carb manufacturers Ideal if you need to try different sizes
13
« on: May 07, 2021, 08:08:04 AM »
I needed some new grips for my CB750K8 so had a look at David Silver as I prefer genuine.
A pair work out at £28.44
53166-390-780 left and 53165-390-780 they also have non genuine
There is also a seller on Ebay with pair Rubber Hand Grips Genuine Honda CB250N CB400N CX500 CB750 CB900 GL1000 classic_bike_spares at £24.95 for pair
Wemoto have genuine too under Honda part numbers, pair delivered comes to £18.46 inc vat and delivery.
There are plenty of non genuine on Ebay for £6-8
Decided to get the Wemoto ones, came through in 2 days and in genuine packets
14
« on: April 24, 2021, 10:52:13 AM »
Just finishing off my last F1 and had bought a new repro wiring loom from DS and a repro ignition switch.
I had to use one of the US spec position wires (Orange/White) to feed switched live to Black in headlamp bowls.
Tail light and pilot would not work although tail did come on in park position on key.
Wiring diagram shows 2 brown wires join by ignition switch but mine did not have a connection in loom, so put in a jumper wire.
Still a problem with tail coming on with handle bar switch.
Fitted an old ignition switch and works fine inc pilot light.
I assume some of the repro ignition switches do not have internal connection required so something to look out for.
15
« on: March 31, 2021, 08:57:49 AM »
I am having a problem cleaning passages without removing the plugs fitted to drilling for accelerator pump jets
I have read about removing the small plugs with pliers, but on mine they are flush with surface so nothing to grip and not sure about putting pressure on jet to try to push down and force plug out.
I have considered drilling out, but then would need to get some made up, unless they are available?.
I have also considered drilling out then tapping hole so that a screw with seal could be fitted, apart from the entry one on carb 2 with pump.
Has anyone found an easy solution?
Are new jets available?
Thanks guys
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