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Messages - bucksfizz
1
« on: October 20, 2019, 04:19:01 PM »
Brilliant - it's easy when you know how.
2
« on: October 20, 2019, 02:44:06 PM »
The clutch mod is only for the early clutches as, they did not have any drain holes.
Bucksfizz, that is the worst way to lock a clutch up. It is very easy the break the alloy parts, you can lock a clutch with only 4 washers 
OK, thanks for the tip - the K3 does have some drain holes. Oops - it looks like I was lucky then, even though the clutch vane looked strong enough to take the mole grips. Out of interest, how do you lock up the clutch with four washers? TIA
3
« on: October 18, 2019, 06:18:55 PM »
I finally got round to removing the clutch.
Talk about a pain trying to remove the castellated nut securing the clutch basket.
Even with the correct tool and locking the clutch with the bike in 1st gear and the rear brake on, the nut refused to budge.
The problem was that I couldn't get enough purchase on the nut and hold the rear brake pedal down at the same time.
In the end, I locked the clutch with Mole grips/channel lock pliers butting up against a length of wood:
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]
The clutch plates were reasonably clean, but I cleaned them with petrol nonetheless.
With fresh oil in the oil tank, I fired her up, and selected 1st gear...
Hurrah! A noiseless gear selection - as I thought, it was clutch drag.
I'm just hoping the noisy gear selection won't return.
If it does, I'll try the clutch basket modification.
4
« on: September 15, 2019, 08:46:30 PM »
Wasn't there a clutch basket mod to get more oil to the plates in order to try and stop this?
I found this thread on the US site, and it makes for interesting reading. This post reckons that the modification helps to reduce clutch drag, and clutch drag is what I feel when selecting first gear. Methinks a clutch strip is in the offing. BTW, I adjusted the clutch as per K2-K6's instructions, and it was a little better, but no cigar.
5
« on: September 14, 2019, 10:29:42 PM »
Wow, thanks for the very comprehensive clutch setup routine, K2-K6.
The clutch take-up is smooth; it's first gear that graunches, and I can feel the shafts are moving, which is causing the noise.
Other gears can be noisy when shifting.
I was going to tackle this job first thing tomorrow morning, but I'm volunteering at Haynes Bikers' Ride-in.
6
« on: September 14, 2019, 01:30:16 PM »
Thanks for the replies - I still have a lot to learn about these machines.
I thought the clutch was a wet system...
From my other machines, I would've said that it was clutch drag, especially as the other gears are not particularly quiet in engagement.
I'll live with it for now if it's a peculiarity of the clutch system, and take a peek over winter.
7
« on: September 14, 2019, 09:55:44 AM »
Engaging first gear on my 1973 CB 750 K3 always crunches.
Unless this is a known problem, which I doubt, then I'd like to have a look at the clutch plates for potential contamination.
I've bought a castellated nut removal tool to effect clutch removal.
Question is: does oil seep out when removing the clutch?
Any other "gotchas" when working on the clutch?
(I've read the manual and tried a search, but to no avail.)
8
« on: July 06, 2019, 10:08:32 PM »
When you tighten up the mission cover, make sure that you have not trapped any wire that run in the channel at the back of that cover.
Strange to see a early head on a K3
What's a "mission cover"? (My ignorance of these machines is shining through.) How can you tell it's an early head? If it is an early head, it's probably not too surprising, given the bike's 46 year age.
9
« on: July 06, 2019, 04:13:32 PM »
New oil pressure switch arrived today, fitted it, and... oil light now comes on - hurrah.
Now let's hope it goes out again when I fire her up.
I'll add some more oil to the tank at the same time, Julie - not too bad running low oil on a dry-sumper, though.
10
« on: July 04, 2019, 03:22:48 PM »
Doh!
Thanks for the info - I'll just button up the gear box outer cover.
(If there were a red-faced icon, I'd use it.)
11
« on: July 04, 2019, 03:06:24 PM »
I'm trying to track down why I'm getting 0 volts at the oil pressure warning light.
I suspect that the oil pressure switch has failed.
My limited knowledge of these bikes tells me that the switch is located at the back of the crankcase on the left side.
As such, I'm trying to remove the outer gear box cover, but it goes only so far:
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]
I can get my finger tips in between the cover and the crankcase, but the wretched cover won't budge any further.
How do I remove this cover without resorting to brute force and ignorance?
BTW, a fair amount of oil came out, which I wasn't expecting.
12
« on: June 21, 2019, 04:25:19 PM »
Thanks for all the replies - most appreciated.
I find restoration quite frustrating and difficult, and the Honda is proving to be trickier than old Brit iron.
Fortunately, the CB 750 is pretty much complete, which helps a lot.
Aside from P & K, I looked at David Silver Spares (DSS), and they don't show the logo part of the seat - why obfuscate?
An email to DSS elicited this response:
Sorry, none of our aftermarket seat covers comes with the "HONDA" logo on.
It is Copyright infringement to have the word "HONDA" on aftermarket products.
When I recovered my Bonneville seat, it was easy to buy a cover with the Triumph logo on it.
There were no problems with the copyright holder, even though it was a non-OEM part.
Again, I bought a complete seat for my Commando from Andover Norton, without Norton complaining or threatening legal action.
It's ironic, hypocritical even, that Honda, a company which copied so much from the British motorcycle industry, should be so litigious.
I emailed P & K with two questions, but they didn't answer one of them.
I had to email again about the free "strap", and the reply revealed that it was missing the buckle.
This wasn't obvious from the website or eBay listing - obfuscation again.
You have to ask all the right questions, otherwise you end up with incomplete components.
I think I'll sit on this problem for the time being, and do some more investigation later.
13
« on: June 20, 2019, 05:47:43 PM »
Does anyone have first-hand experience of P & K seat covers? Is the quality any good, and how close to original are they? My seat cover is all wrong, and doesn't have the "Honda" logo at the rear end: [ Guests cannot view attachments ] TIA!
14
« on: June 04, 2019, 07:33:56 PM »
For the purists, there is a difference between metric and imperial threads, the thread angle is 60degrees for metric, imperial 57degrees
From memory: BA used a 47.5° thread angle, Whitworth 55°, and Unified (UNF, UNC, etc.) 60°. I have a few British clunkers, so I have to fight with these thread forms all the time. I'll get my coat...
15
« on: May 31, 2019, 01:30:18 PM »
Does anyone know the size of the O-rings for the valve inspection caps?
I've tried the search function to no avail.
I prefer to buy decent O-rings in Viton, and have a few in stock, rather than pay silly OEM prices.
Thanks!
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