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Messages - bucksfizz
16
« on: May 28, 2019, 10:57:30 PM »
Total cost to date, which includes purchase price, shipping, and some parts yet to arrive, is £3,279.32.
I need to buy some side panels with jewel emblems, get them painted with the fuel tank.
That should come to less than £4K, and give me a ridable bike that will look reasonable.
Thereafter, I have to decide whether to do a full restoration.
17
« on: May 28, 2019, 07:59:11 PM »
Oh dear, you have made a fatal restoration error........ Never compose a spreadsheet to keep track of costs, you'll give up when you realise how much you are spending and the bike will end up on ebay as 90% complete for peanuts 😯.
Best advice is to do what we all do, keep the various receipts in a folder where the o/h won't find them and when you have finished the restoration count up the cost but don't tell anyone otherwise you'll never restore anything else!
Delete the spreadsheet and just crack on, keep the updates and photo's coming and good luck with progress 👍.
I was thinking the same myself, but my three previous restorations had no limit spending, and I am now just curious. As luck would have it, I don't need to justify any expenditure on my bikes, as my o/h and I have independent incomes - I spend what I like  . Will it end up on eBay even with the dreaded spreadsheet? Probably not, as I'm a completer/finisher - I can't tolerate unfinished jobs. Anyway, this is just the first phase: cleaning it up, and making sure everything works, which it doesn't, of course. I have identified a couple of electrical gremlins, which I'll sort out when the parts arrive (one via my buddy in the US). Cleaning and polishing are half-way through, and it's looking a lot better now: [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
18
« on: May 28, 2019, 10:05:50 AM »
In general if a sidepanel has been straightened out with plaster the only thing you can do with it is exchange it for a (new) pair where the fittings for the logos are still intact.
Maybe someone has a trick to get the plaster out without damaging the surrounding plastic.
Your right side panel is lumpy because the paint is getting loose. There is air under the paint.
Can't think of any simple way of getting filler to come off plastic. Metal..yes. Plastic..no.
It's also possible they have scored the surface to get it to stick better.
Its not worth putting the effort in to remove the filler. Flog them on eBay and put the money towards LPM panels
Many thanks for your replies, gents. Being retired, I have time on my hands, so I was hoping that I could resurrect those old panels, and it wouldn't matter how long it took. I'm just trying to keep the costs down, and for the first time I'm using a spreadsheet to track costs - it's frightening. I've already been in touch with Karen at LPM, so it looks as though I'll be buying some new panels.
19
« on: May 23, 2019, 08:02:06 PM »
Scan this page and search jewel.
http://honda750expert.com
may help.
It looks like DSS is wrong, as honda750expert.com says: Orange side cover diamond jewel = originally for 72-76. Thanks!
20
« on: May 23, 2019, 11:34:12 AM »
I'm new to Hondas in general, and the CB 750 in particular, even though I had a CB125S and CB360 back in the day. My problem is the side panels that are currently fitted to my 1973 US spec. K3. It would appear that the panels have had their badge indents filled in: [ Guests cannot view attachments ] [ Guests cannot view attachments ] Also, the paint on the right side panel is very poor and lumpy: [ Guests cannot view attachments ] Given what I have, I have some questions for the cognoscenti. Is it worth keeping these panels, even though they're going to be painted? I've done some searching on the forum, and the LPM panels are the ones to go for, should I decide to replace. This site indicates that K1 - K6 panels are all the same, yet the K1 - K2 badges appear to be very different from those for K3 - K6. I cannot see how K3 - K6 badges would fit the indents in these panels. David Silver Spares indicates that K3 jewels are red, yet my investigations tell me that orange is the correct colour. Which is correct?
21
« on: May 21, 2019, 03:27:13 PM »
You know the score: you buy a project, and in your mind's eye you know the frame needs painting/powder coating etc.
That was exactly my train of thought, but I think I'll keep the bike as a "survivor", as the Yanks call them.
This is what it looks like after I gave it a bloody good scrub-up and polish:
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23
« on: May 19, 2019, 08:41:18 PM »
You do realise you don't need an MOT to register it with DVLA, or ever again being it will be registered in the Historic class, you don't need insurance either to register it with DVLA. You may be happier having it MOT'd but, it's a personal choice thing.
I did know that Historic classified vehicles were MoT test exempt, but I didn't know about not needing an MoT for registration. I'll need to brush up on this - thanks!
24
« on: May 19, 2019, 08:22:48 PM »
Happy Days. Enjoy your fettling / rub down with oily rag / total restoration. What are your plans for her, or too early to tell yet?
Initially, I want to clean it up, and get the bike registered with DVLA. Firstly, I need to rectify an electrical problem to pass the MoT test, as the headlights work only with a wiring botch. The headlight dip switch is broken, but I have managed to source a NOS left switch assembly in the US. I'll probably ride it in the summer, and strip it down over the winter. I don't trust myself with an engine strip, so I'll need to find a good engine guy. Also, I imagine the engine will need stripping to refurbish the exterior, as it appears to be painted, and it's flaking in places.
25
« on: May 19, 2019, 08:15:38 PM »
I was at Haynes Breakfast Bikers' Ride-in today, and I was talking to the owner of a 1974 USA import CB750.
I mentioned his very clean 4 into 4 exhaust, but queried why it didn't have the part number on each exhaust.
Apparently, genuine Honda exhausts are very dear, but that's exactly what I have:
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Have I been lucky?
26
« on: May 19, 2019, 08:07:04 PM »
My imported CB750 arrived from Southampton docks the other day.
Initial impressions are that it's essentially a complete bike, but it could do with some refurbishment.
Pictures:
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I'll try to post progress as and when, but don't hold your breath.
27
« on: May 04, 2019, 10:16:01 AM »
I'm a newbie here myself, but welcome nonetheless.
I buy all my project bikes from the US, as there's a huge price differential.
Even allowing for a poor exchange rate at the moment (£1 = ~ $1.30) plus shipping, it's still worthwhile.
I recently picked up this 1973 CB750 K3 from Illinois for $2000:
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It should be arriving today (4 May 2019), but I'll have to wait a few days for it to be processed at the docks/customs.
28
« on: April 11, 2019, 09:34:53 PM »
Menno is a painter based in Germany that alot of forum members use , his work is top quality and his website is www.tanklackieren.de . Send him a message & he is quick to reply. You can also message him on here as he is a member.
Thanks, Dave! I can even understand his web page - schoolboy German comes in handy.
29
« on: April 11, 2019, 09:14:04 PM »
When my CB750 K3 finally lands in England, the first job is to paint the fuel tank and side panels.
Being new to the forum, who is Menno?
It seems he is well regarded, so contact details would help.
BTW, this is my tank:
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...and a side panel:
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Sorry for the thread hijack.
30
« on: April 09, 2019, 09:26:33 PM »
It always makes me smile whenever I get given a drawing to make something and its a mixture of metric and imperial. A case of whatever is convenient. These days tape measures should only have metric on them. What year did we go decimal.
It makes me laugh too. In Junior school about 100 years ago they taught us imperial and metric, then said we would be completely metric 'very soon!' 😂
We can never go completely metric - there are just too many products/protocols out there that are Imperial only. All pedal cycles use 9/16" BSC (cycle thread or CEI) on the cranks and pedals, and it can never change, otherwise old pedals won't fit new bikes. All taps use 1/2" or 3/4" BSP (pipe thread) - even in Europe. A lot of pipes in the UK are 38 mm (a nominal value for 1½"). All socket drives are 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", 3/4" or 1". Tyres are always in inches for the diameter - I was talking to a tyre fitter who claimed he didn't know Imperial until I pointed tyre diameters  . All aircraft fly in feet (Flight Level 350 = 35,000'). Minimum tyre tread depth is 1.6 mm, but that's just 1/16" translated to metric. All fence panels are 6' wide. Standard house doors are 2'6" wide, but I did see a DIY store selling 762 mm doors . Printer quality is measured in DPI (dots per inch). There are probably dozens more examples, but I've probably bored you enough already.
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