Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => CB500/550 => Topic started by: Johnny4428 on October 26, 2023, 08:23:57 PM
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Picked up from local removal firm yesterday who collected it from Brighton. Nothing much to say as annoyingly not had much time in garage. Told from the seller that starter button wasn’t working but when I tried it I could see the idiot lights dimming a little, so a couple of taps with the screwdriver handle and she is turning over every push of button. Front and rear mudguards look serviceable as do the headlamp ears. Tank looks pretty good in the inside (better than the outside 😂) Would appear to have a full tool kit with it (does anybody think I need a new tool bag?) weird looking key which appears to fit all three locks (well fits the fuel cap as well but I think that is not surprising) but I must seek out a spare as doesn’t look that strong. Looking forward to further discoveries. 🤪
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Nice project for the winter John.
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Looks like a good project that mate!
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Original spark plug wrench, you can tell my the knurling..
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Nice project for the winter John.
That’s strange Julie! That’s what the guy who sold it to me said! Maybe a couple of winters see how it goes. Not going to spend another winter with nothing happening in the w/shop!
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Original spark plug wrench, you can tell my the knurling..
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231027/2366c2359b37345eb27d0cf4aa21c50d.jpg)
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Seems complete Johnny, nice to see the 26mm eye wrench, took me a long time to find a NOS one for my kit.
I had a full and new toolkit on my bike before I lent it to the BIL, went to check it a few years after and found some tools missing, really annoying.
Not sure if it's an optical illusion but No3 screwdriver looks slightly bent.
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John, I know it seems obvious but I have never thought of pushing the bike ramp up to a van and unloading that way - great idea! Bike appears to look good - have fun!
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Very Thunderbirds are go unloading Virgil.👍
Or should it be Brains! 😁
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Very Thunderbirds are go unloading Virgil.👍
Or should it be Brains! 😁
Ha - exactly!
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Seems complete Johnny, nice to see the 26mm eye wrench, took me a long time to find a NOS one for my kit.
I had a full and new toolkit on my bike before I lent it to the BIL, went to check it a few years after and found some tools missing, really annoying.
Not sure if it's an optical illusion but No3 screwdriver looks slightly bent.
Ken, your more observant than I was it was indeed bent but ain’t anymore, yes I think I have a tool kit with the 26mm missing, must be the 550k3.
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John, I know it seems obvious but I have never thought of pushing the bike ramp up to a van and unloading that way - great idea! Bike appears to look good - have fun!
Seemed the best thing Matt with the absence of the front brake to control a ramp descent. The master cylinder plunger is stuck in!
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That looks a great project Johnny
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Looks like another great starting point Johnny,
Is this going to be another 'Leslie A' type restoration or a good tidy-up for use on any Orkney day?
I can re-plate the tool kit if you want unless you are going for 'patina'
I'll have to 'Scoot' by and have a look sometime.
Ian
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Looks like another great starting point Johnny,
Is this going to be another 'Leslie A' type restoration or a good tidy-up for use on any Orkney day?
I can re-plate the tool kit if you want unless you are going for 'patina'
I'll have to 'Scoot' by and have a look sometime.
Ian
At the moment considering a runabout (provided it runs😳) with a view to a definate full resto in the future. Thanks for the offer of plating Ian but I have a plating kit here too. I will give them a good clean and see what I think. Do come by for a scoot, or any other means.
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I think the K3 kit used a 24mm eye wrench Johnny, different rear spindle nut.
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Nice project .. if that had been from DK the 1st thing they would have done was to nick the toolkit. I bought my CD125A from that guy .. negotiated a bit of discount and straightforward deal. Would be interesting to see who imported it on the NOVA Cert. Mine came from Paul Gaskin of Huggys Speedshop.
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Clive Smither was the importer (name on NOVA cert) of the lovely 550F1 that I got from James. Not even sure that James had ever taken the tool kit out from the seat pod - it looked very much as though no one even knew it was there!
[attach=1]
No, Johnny, the bag is not for sale!
When I shared the details of those DS bikes you posted Ash, everyone remarked how reasonably priced they were when compared with DK and they have had lots of bikes from there.
Ian
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Great project to keep those long, cold and damp days at bay. Very nice spacious workshop as well, you need to fill it with more bikes and projects🙂
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Does look all there, so hopefully not too much work to get it for a runabout for a season. After all bikes are for riding.
Another 550/500 so we have definitely seen off the 400s and even the 750s.
When I was first looking to get a 500 to restore about 22years ago I had trouble finding one. Imports have made them common.
I did get one tool kit out of the three bikes I bought from DK, but it was with the expensive K0 with the early double ring spanner.
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That’s a great bike, well done that man. What’s the white VFR wheel off in the rear if shot.?
My VFRomeyer went off soon as I saw it
Nice workshop too,
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Ken, sorry I was havering, it was the 750 that was minus the 26mm wrench. Yes Dave nice thought to have multiple projects on the go but I think one moneypit at a time is manageable 😂. Now as for importer of the bike, I don’t know if it was the guy that I bought off imported it or not. But I bought the bike with it already registered as a historic vehicle with V5C, so never saw the NOVA. Bit of a mystery really because it had a newish Motobatt battery fitted a new pattern seat, must have been with a view to running it. There was some rather foul smelling stuff that came out of the carb float bowls when I coaxed the float bowl drain screws open. Also the fuel tank (which looks reasonable in the inside) has what appears to be diesel in the bottom of it but may turn out to be old rotten fuel. I managed to get it running today after a little bit of coaxing with fuel leaks and seepages, there was a blast of soot and rust from the rear and it ran without any concerning noises or rattles. Maybe a miracle it ran at all, cos boy are these carbs crying out for attention. I might be wrong but I don’t think this thing has run for a while.
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That’s a great bike, well done that man. What’s the white VFR wheel off in the rear if shot.?
My VFRomeyer went off soon as I saw it
Nice workshop too,
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😂😂 Roo you wouldn’t want that on the back of your VFR, it’s a Lister Junior fly wheel. Yeh was going to paint it but all I had was silver Hammerite.
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Aaaah, new phone bc and can’t work it well enough yet to zoom in
Shame
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Aaaah, new phone bc and can’t work it well enough yet to zoom in
Shame
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🤭
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Well thought I would pull the carbs and have a go at improving on the fuel delivery, I think it’s safe to say they are needing a good clean! Number 4 float pin is fighting me a bit, these 50 year old float pin pillars scare me. Wouldn’t take much to break. Think I’ll leave to soak and try tomorrow.
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Someone needs to invent a pair of broad nosed pliers with a nice slot on one of the jaws to hold against the float pillar on the inside edge - the other jaw needs to have a firing pin so you can push the float hinge pin out.
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Someone needs to invent a pair of broad nosed pliers with a nice slot on one of the jaws to hold against the float pillar on the inside edge - the other jaw needs to have a firing pin so you can push the float hinge pin out.
Nice idea Ted! As long as it supports both pillars at the same time. 👍
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Interesting day yesterday removing air box and carbs. Think this air filter is been here long enough. And some strange looking bugs that have probably crawled up through the drain port. And a seal between air chambers that’s never been fitted correctly.😳
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I found it really awkward to get that seal to stay in place, it seems bit of a bad design but probably worked fine when those seals were nice and new. My Air box was missing quite a few internal bits so with Kens advice I used a 500 filter and did away with the breather parts.
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That device is a known troublemaker. Reason why is US regulations which more or less forced Honda to improvise it on an already existing model. My advice: abandon it, the effect on the environment is futile.
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You’re right DR, I think it’s an over engineered system that achieves very little. I would like to have read the emission figures with and without to see what the difference was. Although I do have everything I still like the idea of the 500 filter Dom! Remember a lot of years ago having trouble with that seal between filter box and housing but I’ve had the air box and carbs off my K3 that many times that I got to be quite good at it.😜😜
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If it fits, I'd choose the CB500 airfilter element. I has a big filter area and it lasts forever.
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If it fits, I'd choose the CB500 airfilter element. I has a big filter area and it lasts forever.
And a hell of a lot cheaper too! Thanks!
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If it fits, I'd choose the CB500 airfilter element. I has a big filter area and it lasts forever.
It can easily be made to fit, it just needs a small bracket made to stop it slipping down.
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If it fits, I'd choose the CB500 airfilter element. I has a big filter area and it lasts forever.
It can easily be made to fit, it just needs a small bracket made to stop it slipping down.
Or fit the 500 airbox where it fits. I threw a few of those away many years ago, no one wanted them then. My BIL just found a load of 500 bits in his sons garage where he'd stored them many moons ago, I'll ask if he's got any filter parts.
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Thanks Ken, if not I’ll soon adapt to fit! Cheers!
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Well thought I would pull the carbs and have a go at improving on the fuel delivery, I think it’s safe to say they are needing a good clean! Number 4 float pin is fighting me a bit, these 50 year old float pin pillars scare me. Wouldn’t take much to break. Think I’ll leave to soak and try tomorrow.
It fought me but I won! 🤣🤣
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Nice project bike to get your teeth into.
It may help on carbs if you've a steamer (wallpaper stripper) to direct a continuous jet of steam at the gunge to free it from a comfortable accumulation it's acquired.
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O nice one Nigel! Never thought about steam! 👍
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This worked very well with the grease gun method, first time I had tried it. It was Bryanj’s post previous that recommended doing it this way. Last time I used compressed air and a rag wrapped around Caliper which also worked, not quite as safe.
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Ooh, that caliper looks horrible! ☹️ Well done for getting the piston out.
What's the bore look like?
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Someone needs to invent a pair of broad nosed pliers with a nice slot on one of the jaws to hold against the float pillar on the inside edge - the other jaw needs to have a firing pin so you can push the float hinge pin out.
Nice idea Ted! As long as it supports both pillars at the same time. 👍
Ah a slight flaw in my thinking there. :(
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Ooh, that caliper looks horrible! ☹️ Well done for getting the piston out.
What's the bore look like?
Bore was not too bad Gareth and the piston hardly had a mark on it surprisingly. Good clean and a new seal and good to go.
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Ooh, that caliper looks horrible! ☹️ Well done for getting the piston out.
What's the bore look like?
Bore was not too bad Gareth and the piston hardly had a mark on it surprisingly. Good clean and a new seal and good to go.
Good news. 👍
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Front brake had a good service, master cylinder stripped and new kit fitted, (still don’t have circlip pliers that will fit inside the unit but didn’t stop me getting it out) new seal and pads and Caliper had a couple of coats of acrylic satin. Filled up with Dot5 and bled. Rear end tomorrow. Pleased with the new keys from DS too. Was sure the one and only key I had was going to snap in one of the locks.
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Looks like you caught the piston just in time Johnny, one more winter and it may have siezed in there :(.
Thanks for the reminder about the keys, I only have one and I know it's waiting to play hide & seek and will go missing the day I come to start the bike!
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Yes it was actually seized in but didn’t take a big tap to get it out Dave. Strangely no sign of any brake fluid! Must have been drained at some point. Reservoir was as clean as a whistle. Yes hate the idea of only having one key!
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I was in Wickes today and they have a key-cutting machine. Pop your key in, it's scanned and then cut. We didn't try it. It's not a big machine though so, given how many blanks exist I wonder how far a small key-cut kiosk will reach. Probably not to classic bikes!?
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If you get the proper blank Andy don’t think there’s anything complex about the cuttings. Think I would have a go with a file set!😜
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I was looking for the thread where Oddjob had a go at refurbishing side panel badges but failed. I have looked at replacements but they all seem to have white lettering?
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Timpsons can cut those keys. My branch had to order the blanks in but only took a couple of days.
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I was looking for the thread where Oddjob had a go at refurbishing side panel badges but failed. I have looked at replacements but they all seem to have white lettering?
https://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php?topic=26679.0
I find it easier to just type key words into Google to find a thread on the forum.
I typed in Badge Restoration Oddjob and it came up top of the list.
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If you type “site:sohc.co.uk” in front of your search term, it will just search this site.
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Steve,
'Not a lot of people know that'. Me included!
That's a great piece of info and will save many hours of what's left of my short time on this Earth. Like many, I've searched various sites for ages looking for info I once had.
👏👏👏👏👏
Ian
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Glad to be of service Ian
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If you type “site:sohc.co.uk” in front of your search term, it will just search this site.
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I didn't know that either. Good info Steve
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This is a better thread for restoring the badges Johnny, page 14.
https://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,19895.195.html
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Thanks for the search tips guys! Who knew? Not me anyway, the painting of the badges don’t bother me that’s not a problem but the making of a new F is beyond my home skills! Anybody got a spare orange F?
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Timpsons can cut those keys. My branch had to order the blanks in but only took a couple of days.
If you take them one of your keys and be nice they’ll cut them but they can only charge for keys that they supply so they won’t charge you if you offer a contribution to the charity box.
Had a new VFR key cut begore I came out here, didn’t charge me again
Just ask the question they try to um and ahh a bit but do it every time when asked even at different spots too
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Thanks for the search tips guys! Who knew? Not me anyway, the painting of the badges don’t bother me that’s not a problem but the making of a new F is beyond my home skills! Anybody got a spare orange F?
Sorry Johnny but what's wrong with the original F in the badge?
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Unfortunately missing Ken!
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Somewhere Johnny I have a few of them but my missus moved them and they have gone missing, if they turn up I'll let you know. I gave one of my spares to Roo to replace the red ones which were in his badges. I have the old one out of a copy badge, by copy I mean the ones DS sells, not genuine Honda but look like it, they aren't as orange as the original and they aren't backed with gold foil like the original.
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That would be great if you could find one but no stress if you can’t Ken. I thought about buying a DS one just to rob it of the F then that’s maybe ridiculous, why not just use the complete replacement instead? I’m confused about the lettering colour. My ones are gold but I haven’t seen any other gold ones and all the replacement pattern ones have white lettering which matches the lettering on the tank badges.
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All the raised parts were chrome, the inside of the numbers were white and the rest was black. The F was orange like the 500. However, I seem to recall Roo trying to fit the 500 F into the 550 slot and it wouldn't go, or they did go but the 500 F is smaller than the 550 F. Plus for some reason the F in Roos badges were red not orange.
https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb550-k2-four-1976-usa_model464/emblem-side-cover_87124374000/
The copies that CMS are selling show orange Fs but that could be a trick of the light.
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Thanks Ken, I’ll have a go at refurbishing the one that has got the F and if I’m happy with it I’ll buy one replacement I think. 4 into 1 also advertise ones that look the right colour.
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Just saw this in my watch list on Ebay Johnny, seems this may be the place that Roo bought his from, note the red F. Cheap though for 2 and IF you're having a red or orange bike they may suit it better.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124014204600
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Looks like a good deal and they look descent but not sure about the red F! I’m thinking that my bike will be freedom green metallic so think I will stick with the orange if I can get them. Liked the idea of these and speed nuts with them.
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Pushed the boat out! Think it’s a bit shiny though! I’ll have to age it a bit.😜
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This one is more like the original Johnny.
https://www.cmsnl.com/products/tool-bag_89101300010/
Funnily enough it's the same bag as what came with my 2009 CB1300, when I got the first one wrote off by a lovely blind lady I kept the toolkit and then bought another 1300 exactly the same which came with another tool kit. So that's the kit I'll be using on my 500, just swap a few tools around but basically the same toolkit.
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Think you’re right Ken although the original didn’t have the “Honda” embossed on the front. The new one I got was slightly shorter than original. Strange that the tool kits never changed much over a lot of years, but then again maybe a lot of the fittings probably never changed in size. If I’m ordering from CMS might just get one then can decide which to use.
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Seen the middle number though Johnny, 300, so off a 750 four. Just looked and the original bag provided by Honda was embossed and is the same part number. Plus they are sort of padded so they don't rattle like the plastic bag and they are far more robust so last much longer, those plastic ones just rip for fun.
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I’m sure part of the problem is it is a strategic exercise to get all the tools in the bag. Not a lot of room spare, could easy over stretch that welded seam on the bag top.
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Made an annoying discovery when I changed the oil and filter in the bike at the weekend, seems the threads in the drain hole in the sump have been compromised. Probably some one tightening and tightening trying to get it tight instead of replacing the sealing washer.😡😡 Picture of a tapered bung thing in its place!
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You need an oil pan Johnny? Fairly sure I've got a couple spare somewhere.
Can I suggest you fit a Stahlbus plug, you never need to remove it to drain the oil, so no chance of stripping the threads ever again. Plus, when you attach the drain pipe (no tools needed at all BTW) you can direct the oil away and into a container with no spills. Really great idea. Can't remember offhand what the thread size is but similar to this.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301258545167?hash=item462468980f:g:ZWoAAOSwT7Jk5bFo&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4HbcEUR8YHRsMTS0X2fb9XXVI35%2BkbFkBZOyu016hS9TmvAgvziKIkcuCx3EHeskxMMij2m%2Flci09%2BclpY6ymjE868yqG%2BZ6K%2BIP1IItlVERUAbO2jc2STWhGEK90BVAxTeNlZfbf%2FDY%2BC%2BfzCMjp4bYaWV40%2BoGfV6iZLh6iuvwY4yyp9wkRrC2WJfIJtNIgoWVKr0HPu46T8wgATMo%2BweE5VFT2lb1nHWEhnwUYzH4kXKkWAXCY3QW3%2ByApjUxSGx6Qiw6Bn2WiWY%2F6uU1U08U0d%2BNpzQqufkegiBoGOPj%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9qU1PD5Yg
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Quite like the idea of that Stahlbus plug thingy. Definately would be grateful for the chance of buying a replacement sump pan Ken!
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I fitted one to my CBB1300 Johnny, it had a tendency to drop oil onto the exhaust when doing oil changes, it also saved me changing the sealing washer every time. Since then I've done a lot of oil changes and never spilt a drop except when I change the filter that is.
Seriously get one, they are a godsend.
Just found the 2 spare pans, not sure if one is off my engine or not. Both are in excellent condition. £30 plus P&P if you want one. You need the sump plug as well?
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Just bought a new sump plug last week Ken to put in it so I’ll take the pan without the plug thanks! No rush Ken as I’ll probably not change it until next oil change. I’ll get on the PayPal case soon as you know what the postage is.
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Well had a first run out on the 550 this afternoon, just added it to my multi bike policy, £16 neither here nor there. Just did 6 miles or so and returned home to assess. Not much heat in No2 exhaust. Looked at the plug and cap and quite sure I had only been getting about 2.75 cylinders. Cut back the old hard lead and attached plug and ah, hot hot! Tested plug cap and we’re getting 14.5k ohms resistance. I have no doubt I will have to give the coils the Ash treatment and fit new plug caps. Despite that it ran ok on 2.75.🤭 O’ and I hate the handlebars. 🤮
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2.75 cylinders luxury Johnny - I ran my 400 on 2 cylinders for quite a few miles before I put my leads on in the right order.
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I remember that indeed Ted!🤭
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It may be common knowledge to some but received my as advertised left side cover for a CB500 and fits the 550 perfect. Good quality too! Seller told me he didn’t have a side cover for a 550. I’ll send him an informative message.👍😜
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Well when it comes to DS packages the bigger the better! Won’t be fitting these new pipes until bike is painted. But assumed they are probably not going to drop much in price.
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Lovely Johnny. Have you removed them from the boxes to check them? I know it's a pain unpacking and repacking them all but worth a look.
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No I haven’t Julie! Should do that indeed before they go under the bed!🤭
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Had another blast today on the 550 after new drive chain fitted. Problem with No2 not playing ball again when I returned to garage fuel was dripping out the silencer. Also wanted to bog down over 4000 rpm.
Feel coil refurb coming on. New ht leads plugs and caps would be a worthwhile job I think. Parked it up and set off on the Pan before the rain came.😁
Was thinking when I was out on the Pan today if you had to get shot of all your bikes and could only keep one, which would you keep? For me it would have to be the Pan.
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Was thinking when I was out on the Pan today if you had to get shot of all your bikes and could only keep one, which would you keep? For me it would have to be the Pan.
I would have to keep Millie the Mongrel 550. It's an absolute blast to ride, for a 550 the performance and handling are pretty phenomenal, the original Yoshimura pipe sounds fantastic, she has lovely styling and it's only a single seater, so I don't have to take anyone with me 😂😂😂. I love my 500 K1, she's such a classic but Millie wins my vote.
[attachimg=1]
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Always knew you were a hooligan Julie
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O! Now I’m having second thoughts! That’s your fault Julie, going for fun over practicality. 😂😂
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O! Now I’m having second thoughts! That’s your fault Julie, going for fun over practicality. 😂😂
If I want practical Johnny, I take the car 😁😁😁😁
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I'm now a convert - if I want practicality AND fun, I take the Forza - every home should have one! 8)
Ian
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Was thinking when I was out on the Pan today if you had to get shot of all your bikes and could only keep one, which would you keep? For me it would have to be the Pan.
I would have to keep Millie the Mongrel 550. It's an absolute blast to ride, for a 550 the performance and handling are pretty phenomenal, the original Yoshimura pipe sounds fantastic, she has lovely styling and it's only a single seater, so I don't have to take anyone with me 😂😂😂. I love my 500 K1, she's such a classic but Millie wins my vote.
(Attachment Link)
Out of interest Julie, is your 550 standard engine wise?
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Yes Dom, totally standard.
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These are in desperate need of refurbishment with the ht leads typically hard as hell and very flexible where they exit the encapsulation.
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Have you read Ashs coil fix?
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Yes Bryan thanks! Done a couple of sets previously. Old leads removed, waiting for the postman now.
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Little tip Johnny, try reversing the coils so the leads come out of the back instead of the front, leave the new leads long until you fit them so you can trim them down in situ.
It could be that you need to swap the coil brackets over as well when you do this, can't remember now, it's been a while. The benefits are less arcing as the wind doesn't drive the rain/water into the coil openings where the leads exit and they route across the top of the engine so look much tidier than hanging down above the exhausts, the 550 even had HT lead clamps fitted on the breather cover to take them away from getting burnt on the exhausts.
These were mine done that way and they are very tidy looking
(https://i.postimg.cc/vHjFkcNs/scan0007.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Good shout Ken! That’s a neat job. Yes you’re right there’s two clips on breather cover that held leads 1 & 4. I have a generous amount of HT lead coming home so should have plenty to carry out this mod.
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Battle scars! It wasn’t broken right accross but almost. Should have replaced but I’m having a go at repair. Two layers of glass fibre on the inside, bit of filler on the outside and see what like. The side panel badge was the replacement from DS.
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15 mins with scotchbrte and chrome cleaner on this scabby clutch cover. Sorry should have taken a before and after! It’ll get a right clean and polish when it is removed to replace gasket.
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Battle scars! It wasn’t broken right accross but almost. Should have replaced but I’m having a go at repair. Two layers of glass fibre on the inside, bit of filler on the outside and see what like. The side panel badge was the replacement from DS.
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Is that heat damage Johnny or did it fall off and somebody ran over it as they did to the side cover on my Morini!
I tried to fix it with fibreglass but it was crushed so badly I couldn't get the shape back into it.
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Both side panels were smashed, the left one the centre was right out of it and there was chips missing. So I bought a replacement. The right one although cracked nearly right accross it still maintained its shape. I wasn’t sure what damaged it, I thought maybe being transported from the States. The damage was all prior to my ownership. I very nearly replaced it too but thought it was worth saving as an original part of the bike.
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Right Ken, this is a first attempt with the coils mounted 180 degrees. 1 & 4 are sitting just right, 2 & 3 not so. Unfortunately I had already bought new caps just to replace old ones as is. So think I need two longer plug caps for 2 & 3 to enable all lead entry’s rear facing. Protective sleeves to fit also.
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Try swapping the coils over Johnny, I know I had to try a couple of time to get this method to work, I suppose it depends on how much the leads have been trimmed in the past as well. I'll see if I can find my coils and see which coil is where and whether the brackets have been turned or swapped as well. It doesn't matter BTW if No4 lead goes to No1 cylinder as they fire at the same time and the marking bands can be swapped if you need to do that, same for 2 and 3 of course.
I used right angled longs HT caps on the end cylinders and straight long on the inners BTW as you can see from the pic.
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Found the coils Johnny. 1 and 4 are on the left now instead of on the right, they are facing backwards, the coil brackets are still in the same positions, the longer bracket (30511-300-000) where the bolt goes through is still the front bracket. So in essence you remove the coils from the brackets, swap them to the opposite side and turn them backwards. If that makes sense.
I think people trying this are just spinning the coil setup backwards and then finding the leads won't reach or they won't mount to the frame anymore, it's not as simple as that.
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Sorry meant to attach picture. Doh!
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Try long straight HT caps on the inners Johnny and use the clips on the breather cover to hold them in place. You can also use clips for the outers, just position them on the cover bolts.
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Try long straight HT caps on the inners Johnny and use the clips on the breather cover to hold them in place. You can also use clips for the outers, just position them on the cover bolts.
I actually tried the longer angled cap on No 2 cylinder and it worked perfect. Need to try No 3 where the tacho drive is.
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Decided to have a go at the swingarm bushes today, all came apart without too much hassle. Not the best looking collar but well within spec. Will clean up and degrease all parts and fit new bushes supplied by nurse Julie. Quite pleased to see some grease in there.
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I need to replace clutch and throttle cabled on the 550 which I’m calling a K0.5. The year of manufacture suggests it’s a K0 but the numbers suggests it’s a K1 makes no difference to me but one thing I’m going to definately change is the handlebars. The ones on it are horrible. I’m thinking from a 550f as I want to retain the concealed wires from the switches. I notice that you can buy new bars of this type, has anybody tried them?
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Think Ted has Johhny, can't remember if he said they were drilled for the wires or not.
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I bought these bars from Bertumsbits - has holes to fit concealed wiring - seem good value etc.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303327670144
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Thanks guys! Nice one Ted thanks for link.
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Been for another blast out today, just a 12 mile run. Bit of a fix this time of year. At last she is running good with no hanging idle and no hesitation. Work carried out so far. Stripped and cleaned carbs and fitted new intake rubbers. Cleaned out filter box and fitted new filter (CB500) one, after good advice on here just used the existing box with packing foam in the bottom. Drained oil and new filter, filled with some fresh mineral diesel engine oil. Stripped seized master cylinder fitted with refurb kit. Stripped and painted Caliper and fitted with new seal and pads. New brake shoes fitted in rear wheel. New drive chain. Bit of play in drive side of swingarm so stripped and fitted new bushes, purged old grease out of centre bolt using heat gun, worked a treat. Removed number 4 exhaust and welded three patches to the underneath just to bring the decibels down a touch. New exhausts under the bed, to be fitted later. Also new handlebars ready to go on sometime. Removed coils and fitted new HT leads, new plug caps and new plugs. Strobed ignition to make sure advancer was working, no adjustments required. Vacuum synced the carbs with a little tweaking which made a considerable difference. Drained and refilled forks with new fork oil. So she is good to go whenever I get a dry mild spell. Still probably going to strip the bike, but for now she’s another runner.
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Nice one Johnny, well done. Any undue noises from the engine?
Not sure when you're going to strip the engine but just to let you know, I looked at another members 550 earlier this year and his clutch basket was loose, the internal rubbers have clearly gone hard IMO, this allowed the large gear on the back to move back and too, to replace these you need to drill the heads off the rivets holding the basket to the gear and that allows you to access the damping rubbers. However finding these rubbers is very hard. I'll be sourcing some in the new year from abroad, they won't sell to the UK so another member on here who lives in Europe has kindly offered to buy them for me and send them on, I'll be replacing some of my clutch baskets rubbers when I get them. If you've tested yours by then and find you need a set let me know and I'll add them to the order. If I've already ordered I'll let you know where they came from and the member who helped me out, I'm pretty sure he'd help out another member if asked nicely.
Replacing these rubbers (if they are gone of course) helps stop the clutch basket banging on tickover and also prolongs the life of the primary chain as it stops that lashing around as much as a result. All worth while for the expense IMO.
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Engine is surprisingly quiet Ken. I am reluctant to open it up at all. But at a very minimum I will strip the top end to lap in the valves and renew head gasket and seals. Maybe next winter. But the clutch I would say is the only noisy bit on the bike. I could safely say order me a set Ken because I’m sure I will use on the K1 or as I call it the K0.5, if not required I’ll use on the K3 which weren’t rep,aced when the bike was restored.
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Ok, I'll add an extra set to the order Johnny, if it works out you don't need it I'm sure someone on the site will or maybe my BIL for my other 500.
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Thanks Ken, just PM with payment details when required.
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The only place that appeared to be seeping oil was from the clutch cover. So quick search among stash and found a new clutch cover gasket. When I removed the cover it revealed quite quickly why it was leaking oil. No gasket! Just some badly applied gu of some sorts with small bits of the old gasket still stuck to the faces. After you mentioned new clutch basket rubbers yesterday Ken I was keen to check and I can confirm I definately need them. Good clean on the faces and new gasket fitted and good to go again. Worked a treat doing this job with bike on the side stand only lost a very small amount of oil!
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The 500 does suffer with the hard cush rubbers as well Johnny but for some reason it appears the 550 suffers more, I'll get round to ordering them in the new year sometime.
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Thanks Ken! No rush.
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Not sure whether this is coming back, it’s got quite deep battle scars and a big dent with a scuff. Are these painted?
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Yes painted. I’ve restored worse. Have a dig around in past posts and you will see what’s achievable.
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Yes it’s the dent that annoys me more than anything, I can handle “age related scars” I’ll have a go at tidying it up? Thanks.
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Yes it’s the dent that annoys me more than anything, I can handle “age related scars” I’ll have a go at tidying it up? Thanks.
So is mine an age related scar or a dent either way it bugs me?
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53107259498_bf947b400d_w.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oUUA29)500 alternator badge (https://flic.kr/p/2oUUA29) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
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Unfortunately I don’t have a before and after. This is a comparison between new oem and restored.
http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,26825.msg247261.html#msg247261
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I removed the overpaint with my thumb nail before final satin lacquer coat. The original was dented a scarred, but not quite to the same extent as Teds, which I think is probably beyond cosmetic recovery.
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And that is not a challenge, Ted😁😁
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I need to remove mine to restore it. Do you lever it out from the front or remove the whole alternator cover and push it out from the back?
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The 500 is held by pins on the back going into spring clips in blind holes
So you lever it off carfully, they are damned expensive
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And that is not a challenge, Ted😁😁
Seasonal reply.
Oh yes it is, - oh no it isn't.
Acknowledgement: - Pantomime Dame.
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He, he😁👍
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Ho Ho
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Sorry to correct Bryan but do not try to lever the cover off, you will distort it doing that unless the spring clips are rusted through. Remove the housing from the engine, look inside and you can see the other ends of the pins, the holes aren’t blind, get a pin punch or a long thin nail and you can knock them out from the inside, do a little on each one first, just to loosen them off.
I’ve repaired far worse than that cover, the dent can be knock out from the back but a shot bag is needed ideally. The rest can be just blended in.
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Thanks I was wondering how these were attached and how to remove them. I will of course have a bash at restoring.
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IIRC it's not easy to get at the three clips with the stator in place. Don't you need to remove the outer cover to undo the stator bolts?
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Im sure the covers i have have blind holes but will check when i have time
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FIX, PUSH ON J TYPE, Honda calls them and they are simply pressed in from the outside. The cover tabs are to be pressed in them pins. https://honda4parts.nl/product_info.php?products_id=165&language=en&ceid=c7ad76f1e237d5fa4f7b981f94de8446
I myself am looking for a second hand cover (B) (with minor damage(s)). Price of a new one has gone through the roof and I can't make myself to pay that money, since some 30 years I have seen them offered new for around € 15,-. For some reason back then they were around in abundance. Should have bought some.
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I've just bought 3 of those j type push fit clips from DS - damned expensive for what they are.
Bit of an update, make sure the pins on the cover are really clean and burr free, probably a good idea to chamfer the leading edge as when I first tried fitting mine a few pushed on in to the casing which meant I had to push them back through from the other side which resulted in a bit of damage to their barbs. I splayed them carefully with a small screwdriver to cause them to drag on the casing a bit more as well, bit of grease on the chamfered pins and success!
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The pins are located on the outside of the field coil but on the inside of the stator, it's not easy to get to them but it is possible. They are definitely not blind Bryan, I've done this a few times now, it's the only safe way to remove the badge IMO.
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Thanks Dom and Ken good tips for a alternator cover virgin!🤣
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I've just bought 3 of those j type push fit clips from DS - damned expensive for what they are.
Bit of an update, make sure the pins on the cover are really clean and burr free, probably a good idea to chamfer the leading edge as when I first tried fitting mine a few pushed on in to the casing which meant I had to push them back through from the other side which resulted in a bit of damage to their barbs. I splayed them carefully with a small screwdriver to cause them to drag on the casing a bit more as well, bit of grease on the chamfered pins and success!
A lot of the time Dom you'll find the pins are ever so slightly bent, so that they don't enter the clips at the right angle, I would advise test fitting the badge into the cover holes without the clips in place, just to check the pins are aligned, it also shows if the badge is distorted as a lot of them are by being prised off rather than knocked off from the rear, dented covers can make the edges lift up ever so slightly due to displacement. The clips can also be removed from the rear by the same method BTW. I would concur on the grease, prevent them rusting at all costs, clips that rust through can cause the badge to come loose, after a run you look down and no more badge. As Bryan says, a new one isn't cheap at all these days.
Johnny, if you want to send me the badge I'll try and knock the dent out and blend in the damage, then return it ready for whatever finish you want to apply. Or you can have a go yourself, always worthwhile learning something new. I've got 2-3 badges in various states of restoration at the moment, all of them are far worse than yours I may add. All are showing promise. Even Teds is repairable, it may not look 100% afterwards but if you blend in the damage it's possible for you to not be able to tell it was damaged unless you do a side by side comparison.
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https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb500k1-four-england_model14660/cover-dynamo_11631323000/ Second pic, TBH the holes are closer than I remembered but it's still possible as I've done it loads of time.
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Never doubted you Ken! Came off a treat.
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Dent has gone and some of the scarring, bit to do yet!
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Keep at it. That’s starting to look really good.👍
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Johnny, you got any of those abrasive discs I use and a Dremel, if so the rest will be easy to remove. Where that deep small dent was try knocking that from the back like the dent and that will pop it out so you can flat it right down.
Glad to see my memory wasn't at fault, need a fairly long pin punch but easy if you have one of them.
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Thanks Ken, never thought about the rotary machine with the small sanding disc. I’ll be on to that next time, might be Friday. I have the dent knocked out, you mean actually raising the metal thereto then flatten out?
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Not the dent Johnny more the small stone strike above it, I found the dent knocks through to the back of the plate, if you knock it back the outer surface can then be flatted so the strike mark disappears. The discs are like small flap wheels, of various grades, roughest 80 up to 2000 grit. You have 2 mounted on each mandrel.
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I’m with you, never tried the discs. But I’ll have a go.
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Just in case you need it.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0CCY4CVG2/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B0CCY4CVG2&pd_rd_w=9zePj&content-id=amzn1.sym.84ea1bf1-65a8-4363-b8f5-f0df58cbb686&pf_rd_p=84ea1bf1-65a8-4363-b8f5-f0df58cbb686&pf_rd_r=1KNMGS6XMQ60E7F1MZQH&pd_rd_wg=vOHsX&pd_rd_r=57ba90f6-b16b-444c-9ec3-fdc62ea49923&s=kitchen&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWw
The dark green are the roughest, they'll get rid of most of the marks quite quickly, however they can leave alloy a little rough, keep going up the grades and the marks will go however. DON'T press hard, just a light touch until you get used to them, observe the direction of the bristles, you'll find one side has a dot on it, those go to the underside. 2 on a mandrel works best.
These have an additional grade that my usual ones don't have so may be even better.
The whites are almost useless for alloy but for softer stuff like brass, gold etc they work just fine and remove very little, more like a fine polish like Solvol Autosol would remove.
Great for removing rust, good for decarbonising pistons etc, you'll find so many uses for these you'll wonder how you ever managed before. The only downside to these is that because they are rotary you'll find your face is covered with crap after some time, wear a mask as well, they do and can create dust.
Once you get used to them you'll find hundreds of uses, they can even remove old chrome if you're willing to persevere.
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Just to let you know that my source has contacted me today to say he’s going to order some sets of the clutch basket rubbers this week, they are costing him around 53 euros a set. Then he has to post them to me, so more postage costs, then of course I’d have to post them to you. All told the total cost may end up somewhere between £55-60 a set. Even more if we get charged import duty but we are trying to avoid that by just sending them in pairs to keep the value down and under the threshold.
Due to the cost I haven’t ordered a lot of sets, so supply is very limited, let me know if you’re still interested please.
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Yes Ken. I will definately take one set. Just let me know how much and if you want payment upfront.