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Messages - honda-san
31
« on: August 19, 2010, 12:47:56 PM »
And of course, as Bryan suggests, make sure the caliper arm pivots freely - loosen the caliper bolts, the arm should pivot freely with the spring capable of moving it. Fitted a grease nipple to my winter hack 400/4 caliper arm so the pivot can be greased - no more seizures.
Chris
32
« on: August 18, 2010, 09:55:05 PM »
When you fitted the new pads, did you pump out the piston and clean out the groove in which the seal is fitted? Corrosion tends to "grow" behind the caliper seal and squeeze it onto the piston, preventing it from returning properly. Often not helped if the piston is just pushed back into the caliper after fitting the pads as any dirt on the piston is forced towards the seal.
Other problem area can be if the tiny bleed hole inside the master cyclinder is blocked, not allowing brake fluid an easy retrun to the master cyclinder after squeezing the lever - use a pin to clear it.
These things are pretty old now - only solution with them is to strip, thouroughly clean out the caliper (especially the seal groove) and re-build with new fluid, etc. I use rubber brake grease behind the piston seal, and DOT 5 silicon brake fluid (doesn't burn the paintwork if it spills / leaks). Old pads have often glazed, and have been known to detach from the backing plate, so would certainly fit new ones if in doubt (which of course you have). Corroded pistons, perished brake pipes should be replaced too.
Obviously new pistons, seals, pipes ets are desirable, but even with the original parts (subject to condition of course) these brakes can be made to be pretty good even if they OF COURSE are never going to compete with the latest generation 6 pot twin disc set ups!
Have fun! - Chris R.
33
« on: May 11, 2010, 12:47:20 PM »
Which carb is it (number 1, 2, 3, or 4). Also, what is the carb number (should be at the front top of the carb boby flange).
I do have a dismantled carb set being used for spares (same problem as yours on one of the bodies). Let me know and I'll see if I have the one you need.
34
« on: April 24, 2010, 08:32:03 PM »
That screw is NOT an adjuster! To adjust the can chain tension, all you do is looseb the locknut, with the crankshaft turned to a partcular position, and then re-tighten the locknut (the cam chain tension is automatically adjusted by a spring within the mechanism.
To find the correct crankshaft position, rotate the crankshaft so the T.14 mark aligns with the timing mark on the crankcase, make sure that the number 1 cylinder valves are closed (slack in both #1 cylinder tappets) - if not rotate a full turn and check for #1 tappet slack again. Then rotate the crankshaft a further 15
35
« on: April 22, 2010, 10:26:55 PM »
Sorry, no - only really the (incomplete) engines as suggested.
36
« on: April 14, 2010, 12:58:13 PM »
Well done for perservering.
Great finish on the engine - what paint did you use, or is at some kind of satin powder coat?
37
« on: April 11, 2010, 08:33:21 PM »
Usually my F2 runs between 150 and 160 to reserve. I tend to cruise around about 6000 rpm wherever possible too, but often "use it all" under acceleration (non standard silencer - sounds great  ). Working it out over several tank fulls, it generally averages approx 50mpg (11 miles per litre if you prefer) 113 does not sound much to me! Air filter clean / newish?
38
« on: April 07, 2010, 01:08:27 PM »
Anyone looking for any 350/4 or 400/4 engine parts? I have one 350 botom end, and three 400 bottom ends going "spare". They were all aquired as part of a job lot of spares / bikes (which included 20 CB750 engines, 4 CB750 project bikes, and 5 C72 project bikes!) some years back. Not looking for silly money for them if anyone interested, and can collect from Sheffield.
sandcast302@talktalk.net
39
« on: April 06, 2010, 09:48:24 PM »
My ' 69 was painted with 5 wheel silver back in '94 when it was PROPER paint (you know, cellulose based and going to kill the planet). Colour was good, definately petrol resistant, and after 80,000 miles is still firmly attached and has not yellowed.
Sadly the modern Simoniz equivalent is not petrol proof the same. Like most things in modern life. New / improved, but not a step forward in practical terms. Only way to work out whats best is to try them out on a test piece of some kind, cure in an oven at say 100
40
« on: April 03, 2010, 09:18:12 PM »
Use Dot 5 silicon brake fluid, it does not attack paintwork - pricey at approx.
41
« on: April 02, 2010, 08:01:21 PM »
I have found that two things are important here-
The paint should be trimmed back at the filler neck so that the seal is against bare metal rather than on top of the paint. Otherwise the petrol over time seems to work its way under the paint and down the outside, softening the paint as has happened (and Honda did not paint onto the sealing surface either)
And of course petrol proof laquer must be used - Surely ANY painter worth a damn knows that!!!
Cheers - Chris R.
42
« on: April 02, 2010, 07:56:27 PM »
Hi Pete,
I get around 48 - 52 mpg usually. Or approx 11 miles per litre for the youngsters out there, so I reckon 90 miles to a tenners worth is about right.
Rear shocks are DEFINATELY correct - they are the opriginal type with the black plastic cover around the damper up inside the spring.
They can be a bit of a heave onto the mainstand, but its just a case of three shredded wheat in a morning (or some spinach) I'm afraid.
Wish the weather up here in Yorkshire was fit to get out on the bike. What's happened to all that bloody global warming we are supposed to be "suffering" from!!!
Keep on enjoying it Pete - Chris R.
43
« on: March 23, 2010, 01:03:51 PM »
Hi Pete,
Glad you got out on it finally. My experience with using bikes which have been stood for many years is that it often takes a little bit of time and effort to get everything spot on.
Not too many reasons for running too rich on all four pots - air filter is the obvious one, even if it looks clean (I had a 350/4 which always ran rich, despite the air filter looking good. Fitted a new one and cured it instantly, AND improved mpg from 50 to 60). As you say, the one in teh K1 looked okay, hence it was left in.
The float heights were all re-set at 26mm, which is the standard value for a K1. Main jets were 120's which are correct for the K1. Slow jets were also the correct 40's. Carbs did not look to have been messed with, but can't remember if I checked the needle height (clip should be in the middle groove). Smell of petrol, and weeping from the carbs when stood suggests to me float valves not sealing. They are pretty reliable in CB750's I would suggest (indeed I have never had to replace any on my own bikes over the last 25 years).
The petrol tank was bone dry when it arrived from the US, with some light surface rusting I seem to recall. Wonder of the fresh fuel has washed any dust / dirt down which is holding the float valves off their seats - surprised though that all four carbs would be affected the same.
Might be worth removing the fuel tap bowl to see in any sediment has accumulated in it which would confirm whether or not any debris is being washed through from the tank which could then "upset" the floatvalves.
If you think I can help, just ask.
Cheers - Chris R.
44
« on: March 08, 2010, 09:20:04 PM »
Hi Ash,
Engine side covers and cam covers were "clear-coated" by Honda. Curiously, some sump pans and top breather covers also seem to have been clear coated whilst others were painted same as crankcases. Also some variation of finish of oil bowl and cam tensioner housing (though the NOS ones of these I have are painted)
I do still use the Simoniz 5-wheel silver, but am not convinced it is as petrol resistant as it used to be when it was Holts 5-wheel silver (but then again most things in this "green" world of ours are new / improved to the point of being useless!).
The engine on my sandcast was painted with the Holts 5-wheel back in 1994, along with the paintwork with
45
« on: March 08, 2010, 09:00:34 PM »
Pete,
They do "just pull off" once the two screws are removed, in theory.
That said the last one I removed was so tight I thought i was going to damage it. 30 some years of corrosion seems to be the problem.
So much easier to paint with it removed though.
Good luck!!
Chris R.
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