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Messages - eight0
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226
« on: July 06, 2019, 06:56:36 AM »
Thanks for the reply Simon.
I've gone down the cafe route with my bike so I need all the space I can get. I've ditched the whole loom and am going motogadget so I need to get a new reg rec anyway.
227
« on: July 05, 2019, 03:40:18 PM »
Hi All,
What's the go to for a Lithium Ion compatible Reg Rec combo for a CB550? I know the Ricks ones seem to work but it's eye-wateringly expensive with the shipping ($165)
228
« on: May 03, 2019, 08:00:40 PM »
I am still working on the bike promise.
Cut out the hubs to send of for re-building with aluminium rims
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Made a new tab to fit the 500T tank and moved the front tank pegs
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Started making the seat
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and don't judge me on my welds.. I'm learning!
229
« on: April 08, 2019, 03:22:12 PM »
So I asked Philpots about rechroming the top nuts and they said they would do it FOC whilst my tubes were being done. I can see why you all use them!
230
« on: April 08, 2019, 12:21:24 PM »
Thanks everyone! Philpots it is then.
231
« on: April 08, 2019, 12:04:25 PM »
I sent my dirt bike suspension off to Brook suspension recently and was impressed with their service. They also do fork re-chroming. https://www.brooksuspension.co.uk/best-sellers/motorcycle-fork-rechroming-service-for-stanchions-both-legs/£165 for both legs is far cheaper than getting an aftermarket set. Has anyone used them for rechroming or is there another place people tend to go to? Mine are not in great condition but I spoke to them on the phone and they said they've not come across a set that can't be saved yet.. [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
232
« on: March 12, 2019, 02:06:34 PM »
Not sure if you have come across this, but it's the best info on Dual disc conversion I have round. http://blacksquaremotorcycle.com/dual-disc-conversion/If you have the Asymmetrical hub: 'the right side fork slider has a caliper bracket mounting point/post, which is offset by exactly 3 mm when compared to the left. What this means is that the caliper will sit 3 mm closer to the rim, tire and spokes and will, therefore, line up with the rotor perfectly' 'There is a gap between the slider and the top caliper bracket! It is exactly 3 mm. That’s an easy one to fix. If you are re-using the original front fender, its mounting bracket will fill some of that 3 mm gap, the rest can be taken up by standard 6 mm washers (one at each mounting point). If you are not using a front fender at all, then just put two 3 mm thick washers to fill the gap when installing the calipers.' copied and pasted from the Blacksquare site.
233
« on: March 04, 2019, 12:00:04 PM »
I also have a Tank in terrible condition. No idea why anyone might want it but you never know.
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234
« on: March 04, 2019, 11:56:21 AM »
No worries, i can wait a little while [/quote] Here you go Trigger. Not in the best condition. No dents or holes but a few deeper grazes here and there. [ Guests cannot view attachments ] [ Guests cannot view attachments ] [ Guests cannot view attachments ] [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
235
« on: February 19, 2019, 02:18:29 PM »
Hi guys, Does anyone know a good mechanic that can solve this issues on my cb550? South London, zone 2/3 possibly. I live in Tulse Hill.
- battery goes flat all of a sudden after starter stops working. Regulator rectifier is faulty but I am not sure that this is the only reason
-overflow hose leaking gas from one carb bowl
-hose from airbox plenum leaking gas heavily
I am not an expert at all, there could be more problems behind..
Thanks for any tips!
I'm no mechanic but I live in Tulse Hill/West Dulwich. If The advice about tapping the float bowl doesn't work I can help you check the float height and clean the float needle/seat. If you do have the original separate regulator and rectifier and yours is faulty you can have mine, I plan to replace mine with a single unit.
236
« on: February 18, 2019, 08:52:11 PM »
I'm glad you managed to buy it! I'm sure you would have found it on your own accord anyway but it's good a forum member get it anyway. I'm early on in my 550 build so not sure what I need yet but I may message you as it progresses.
237
« on: February 18, 2019, 02:37:33 PM »
Interested in the down pipes. Could you put some pictures up ?
Sure Trigger, it will be a little while as my mate is away now and I don't have access to the garage.
238
« on: February 18, 2019, 02:06:36 PM »
A bit of progress over the last 2 weeks. Got the engine running and idling smoothly. I tried to take a video but my phone battery died before it saved! I had done the bench sync incorrectly but after re-reading the process I got it in the end. Put some vacuum gauges on them and they were pretty close.
Removed electrics - all going in the bin. Removed the shocks and triple tree - the fork tubes are in bad condition. I'll either need to re-chrome them or source replacements. Removed the rear wheel - one of the wheel spacers was missing and had been replaced with..... 3 Nuts! and finally got the engine out. I layed the frame on its side and got it out that way. Was hard work by myself but I got there in the end.
The engine cosmetically is pretty bad. I'd like to re-paint it but I've read in many forums its not good to paint an assembled engine (shouldn't paint over gaskets and bolts and you can never get it fully clean). I emailed a couple of blasting companies but they all said they wouldn't touch an assembled engine.
Leaves me with a couple of options.. Do a top end rebuild and get the head, barrels and cover blasted in the process - then do my best to clean and repaint the case assembled
Or completely strip the engine and get it done properly.
I think I'm going to do a top end anyway, I don't know the bikes mileage and I want to check the tensioner, rings and valves/guides.
Thoughts?
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On a separate note, I'm not putting this bike back to stock so will be selling/passing on a few things. Any interest in the below? If there is I'll take some photos.
Exhaust headers (550F 4-1) - they would need re-chroming and are rusted onto the collecter. I could cut it off and check the condition of it if there is any interest. I think they're just a bit rusty and don't have any dents. Controls left and right Seat and pan Grab rail Headlight ears Chain guard indicators
239
« on: February 04, 2019, 04:03:21 PM »
If you do I'm after a caliper and a caliper arm for a dual disc setup. finders fee?
240
« on: February 04, 2019, 11:50:39 AM »
Quick update, made some good progress this weekend. I managed to get power to all the right places, Oil pressure light came on, but wouldn't go out. Found that the pressure switch had a loose wire and was grounding out so I re-made the terminal and then after 1 kick the light now goes out. I replaced the coils, plugs and caps, cleaned the points, set the gap and the timing, checked valve clearance and fitted the carbs.
2 kicks and it fired up! Revved really high so I killed it. Tried again and cut the choke straight away, still revving quite high but kept it running for 10 seconds or so and there are no worrying noises coming from the engine. In fact it sounded great. Think there maybe be an air leak in the boots or the bench sync was way out but I'm happy that there are no major bottom end engine issues that are immediately obvious.
I will check the compression next weekend now I've burnt off the oil on top of the pistons.
I don't have much in the way of pictures, but the view inside the sump looks clean.
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And the mess of wiring
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