Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => CB350/400 => Topic started by: Dolomite_ on February 25, 2024, 01:56:38 PM
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After googling and having a look through older posts and not finding anything, I thought I'd ask.
Does anyone know if there is a list of what to replace when doing an engine rebuild? It's my first engine rebuild, the furthest I've been so far is taking the barrels off.
What is definitely worth replacing and what is worth replacing because its already stripped?
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You really need to measure everything,
Bores plus 0,004 need to be bored,
Obviously mains,big ends checked,
Rubbers in clutch cush drive,
Oil seals,
Honda engineers did a great job,
My 500 recently had a refresh,
After 80,000 miles the bottom end just needed clutch Rubbers and primary chain,
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If you look for Nurse Julie's engine rebuild, (link is on any of her posts) you'll see what is involved.
On a worn engine you may need new pistons and rings, valve guides, new bearings and seals, check camshaft tensioner horseshoe and guides, new camchain, primary chain and damper rubbers, check big end and main bearing shells plus a full gasket set.
A full rebuild is not cheap!
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If you budget for £1200 to rebuild the engine (inc rebore) I suspect that is close to average today provided the head & camshaft are okay.
That does not include things like Soda Blasting or anything cosmetic.
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The bike has done 28k but I dont know how much wear that might cause. I think it might be a case of I'm down there already so get a rebore of 0.25mm done.
Is the estimate of £1200 getting someone else to do it? From the rough estimates in my head, I was expecting 600-700 just for parts and doing 90% of it myself.
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I guess it depends on what might be wrong. I've just spent £450.oo on parts and £700 for labour, price agreed beforehand, presently my bike is still in the garage. I was advised to get the rebuild because of leaking gaskets and some seals. I opted to get the cam chain, it's 'horseshoe' and tensioner blades complete changed while things are open and a broken piston ring was also found. Nothing else that really matters has come up. Mine is a 1978 CB400F with 40,000 on the clock, the last 12,000 were gentle ones with me.
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I guess it depends on what might be wrong. I've just spent £450.oo on parts and £700 for labour, price agreed beforehand, presently my bike is still in the garage. I was advised to get the rebuild because of leaking gaskets and some seals. I opted to get the cam chain, it's 'horseshoe' and tensioner blades complete changed while things are open and a broken piston ring was also found. Nothing else that really matters has come up. Mine is a 1978 CB400F with 40,000 on the clock, the last 12,000 were gentle ones with me.
How were the bores?
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My figure is £1200 is for parts then fitting them yourself - obviously having a rebore done by a specialist is included.
Mileage although a factor is not the whole cause. An engine that has stood for long periods in a shed or similar will deteriorate. Internal corrosion from condensation & old engine oil sticking clutch plates etc etc.
My parts from memory were Rebore & Pistons by Trigger, two Helicoils and machining for the tensioner bolt upgrade. I had to replace all the crank bearings, a couple of gearbox bearings, Primary drive rubbers, PD bearings & PD chain.All engine gaskets & seals plus camchain, one used valve, valve stem seals. Full Gasket Set plus some gaskets not included in my set. Oil filter & new sump plug. Hondabond & Locktite tubes. Clutch friction plates & clutch drive rubbers. Some replacement engine casing bolts plus zinc plating of many bolts. Replacement side casing fasteners. My bike came with new tensioner blade and some new cover gaskets. Oil pick up pipe tubing, new circlips as required I will have missed a few bits off this list like some replacement engine dowels.
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Have you priced a rebore recently, the last four sets of 500 i did did not clean at 0.25 as the bores were "barelled" had to go to 0.5
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How were the bores?
No problem!
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Have you priced a rebore recently, the last four sets of 500 i did did not clean at 0.25 as the bores were "barelled" had to go to 0.5
I've not had to rebore anything yet. Im guessing its going to be atleast a couple hundred pounds. I'm going to contact an engine machine specialist near me tomorrow.
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Have you priced a rebore recently, the last four sets of 500 i did did not clean at 0.25 as the bores were "barelled" had to go to 0.5
I've not had to rebore anything yet. Im guessing its going to be atleast a couple hundred pounds. I'm going to contact an engine machine specialist near me tomorrow.
You might already know, it's worth mentioning that whoever does your rebore should be aware of the fine tollerances Honda used on these engines. Ideally the engine specialist should be someone with Honda specific motorcycle engine experience.
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I agree with all the above and would add a caveat to the rebore work and that is be very wary of the man down the road who is used to reboring car or British motorcycle engines. Japanese motorcycle engines run very tight tolerances. The individual pistons should be measured and numbered. The bores are machined to suit the individual pistons.
I second Ted & Bryanj's recommendation, get the rebore done by someone who knows what they are doing with regards to these engines. The specific tolerances are in the Haynes manual.
I had a Honda CB250RS rebored by a so-called specialist five years ago. Despite giving him the tolerances he decided to do it his way as he thought the tolerance was too tight and the piston would sieze. Guess what, this is exactly what happened but not because it was too tight but because the 'specialist' bored it out as he would a British bike and didn't tell me. The engine used a litre of oil in the space of 50 miles, the bike sump only holds 1.5 litres, result a full seizure on the M40 motorway on a newly rebuilt motor. There was a big hole in the top of the piston on inspection.
Only use people who are recommended by others on this forum to save yourself a lot of pain and money👍
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I agree with all the above and would add a caveat to the rebore work and that is be very wary of the man down the road who is used to reboring car or British motorcycle engines. Japanese motorcycle engines run very tight tolerances. The individual pistons should be measured and numbered. The bores are machined to suit the individual pistons.
I second Ted & Bryanj's recommendation, get the rebore done by someone who knows what they are doing with regards to these engines. The specific tolerances are in the Haynes manual.
I had a Honda CB250RS rebored by a so-called specialist five years ago. Despite giving him the tolerances he decided to do it his way as he thought the tolerance was too tight and the piston would sieze. Guess what, this is exactly what happened but not because it was too tight but because the 'specialist' bored it out as he would a British bike and didn't tell me. The engine used a litre of oil in the space of 50 miles, the bike sump only holds 1.5 litres, result a full seizure on the M40 motorway on a newly rebuilt motor. There was a big hole in the top of the piston on inspection.
Only use people who are recommended by others on this forum to save yourself a lot of pain and money👍
Good point Laverda Dave. Ive had a quick search through the forum but couldnt find any mentions, do you know any places in the Northwest you would recommend?
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I would contact either Nurse Julie & Graham (Trigger) or Bryanj both are on this forum. It goes without saying they are both the best at what they do and having been around Honda sohc's for ever they know what they are doing. Graham has just rebored my cylinders with some NOS Honda pistons and rings I purchased from Ted and replaced the valve guides and some valves. The postage cost to send the barrels and head to Graham was £9 via Royal Mail, next day delivery. Quicker and cheaper than going by car to your local rebore man!
Going back to a point made earlier by Bryanj, my barrels had 43k on them (or so I was told by the PO) and were on standard bore. They had to be bored out to .50 so unlikely you will get away with a 0.25 rebore on yours but until they are propely measured by whoever does the rebore you won't know so dont jump the gun and buy a piston kit yet as you may be wasting your money.
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How close are you to Liverpool?
Grampian Motors do a fair job
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Thanks, Laverda Dave, I'll give Nurse Julie/Graham a dm. Not purchased any pistons yet, I'm waiting until I've sorted everything out with the engine. I was just going to go with the Davis Silvers Spares oversized ones so I know they will definitely fit but are there any that might be better?
Are the NOS Honda ones new old stock?
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Are the NOS Honda ones new old stock?
Sounds like an oxymoron dunnit? ;D
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Are the NOS Honda ones new old stock?
Sounds like an oxymoron dunnit? ;D
FFS I read it completely wrong :D. I've never seen new old stock abbreviated :D
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It is a shame that NOS seems to be ingrained in the vernacular.
“Unused Old Stock” would have been better.
Too late now.
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..could be nitrous oxide ?🙂
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..could be nitrous oxide ?🙂
...Not On Shelf? ;D
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So you’ve bought a full gasket kit and plan on opening the engine, as others have said you might as well measure inspect but plan to replace all the main bearings and con rod bearings.
New cam chain, primary chain, tensioners for chains, Seal kits, dowel pins sometimes they get stuck in the cases, new chain and sprockets, plan on replacing some of the hardware like any countersunk screws if they’re tough coming out and the heads look manky. Fresh clutch, measure clutch springs replace if necessary.
Fresh rubber intakes for the carbs, if yours are old and hard.
Those are some of the things I’ve had to do in the process of my 750 engine builds. I know some are engine adjacent like fresh chain and sprockets but usually when engine is out it’s time to give the bike a solid going over.
Heck I’m down to bare frame on this engine rebuild…
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So you’ve bought a full gasket kit and plan on opening the engine, as others have said you might as well measure inspect but plan to replace all the main bearings and con rod bearings.
New cam chain, primary chain, tensioners for chains, Seal kits, dowel pins sometimes they get stuck in the cases, new chain and sprockets, plan on replacing some of the hardware like any countersunk screws if they’re tough coming out and the heads look manky. Fresh clutch, measure clutch springs replace if necessary.
Fresh rubber intakes for the carbs, if yours are old and hard.
Well, entire cam chain system and seals and also the intake rubbers were supplied along with gaskets from the start. I asked about the primary and got told it wasn't bad. A new piston ring was needed, the pistons were cleaned up too. Also a stripped thread in the cylinder head was dealt with. I've been a bit lucky I think. ;D
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Disagree about shells, inspect yes but replace only if wor and make sure you know where they were originaly
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Disagree about shells, inspect yes but replace only if wor and make sure you know where they were originaly
I've not looked at the crankshaft bearing just yet but the big end bearings seem ok, still slightly shiny. But I think I may as well replace them.
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Disagree about shells, inspect yes but replace only if wor and make sure you know where they were originaly
I've not looked at the crankshaft bearing just yet but the big end bearings seem ok, still slightly shiny. But I think I may as well replace them.
Before you go and spend a shed load of cash on new shells get yourself some green plastigauge for £10 and measure the shells you have. Take some photos and post them here and do the same for the mains. The experts on here will be able to advise if the shells are scrap or useable (and assuming they are within tolerance after measuring with the plastigauge).
As has been said previously, please make sure you have made a note of where each individual half shall has come from and if it came from the top or bottom crankcase half. Post some photos of the journals as well.
One item not mentioned for your parts list is a tube of Hondabond. You will need this when assembling the crankcase halves. It's not cheap and don't be tempted to use instant gasket, you'll regret it when it blocks up the oilways and wrecks a newly rebuilt engine!
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If you havent looked at crankcase how are you seeing the ends? And they are supposed to be shiney where they bed in, put up pics for advice before spending a fortune
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If you havent looked at crankcase how are you seeing the ends? And they are supposed to be shiney where they bed in, put up pics for advice before spending a fortune
I hadnt taken the con rods off then, but I have now.
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Before you go and spend a shed load of cash on new shells get yourself some green plastigauge for £10 and measure the shells you have. Take some photos and post them here and do the same for the mains. The experts on here will be able to advise if the shells are scrap or useable (and assuming they are within tolerance after measuring with the plastigauge).
As has been said previously, please make sure you have made a note of where each individual half shall has come from and if it came from the top or bottom crankcase half. Post some photos of the journals as well.
One item not mentioned for your parts list is a tube of Hondabond. You will need this when assembling the crankcase halves. It's not cheap and don't be tempted to use instant gasket, you'll regret it when it blocks up the oilways and wrecks a newly rebuilt engine!
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Ive ordered some plastigauge green, should be here next week.
My nail doesnt catch on any of the crank case bearings but does slightly catch on the con rod bearings. I went to the engineering firm at lunch today, who fixed my tensioner for his opinion, he's been doing engine work for 40 years and has been recommended by a local restorer who uses him who has done work on previous cb400fs he was restoring. He said they dont seem too bad and would just replace them like for like. I'm going to wait until I can test it with the plastigauge before I pull the trigger on anything.
Upper crank case
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczNwerdr0o9y4JfTMnvPolit4EAaQIoX-7XZAbv0_yKaPYdqZ9kmHOIGLVIpnsrDeGPjX_y8Yrh3dQl3mtqs_8oq0gYP2u0_rb91mSy3TgY7Pr_YOBRCqTJwuoe1AVs9Y6jDGjMoGz9Z7oES77rVDPz5HrWjDOnHi2vhDCY-c68uANruOenSV9S2D_CUM_bmdAwH1notgpXzdtL0wz2GiTquBzKa4KUR_-eck3pCnT5oZcaKde9OHcgMAYxcDYVEXbiJHQeh4x8CkmrDzg6cSp6JSkYdyRT-oKQRRfUavjLLxWms2nK9_ZNir31C1MLpWL10O-CoqdESX3tCkVbox8hnr1OSOk6iKVguYojkOjr0LeK-turwuGeTPZsdeeKr4PWRQVGCDslrgjYeWhO3YmofAbMRaCLSt29GXpAdWrq_DCUJ9hjOcH6IMPK7-6vUG8-9kRxLoOH-ppuh7cueTvcoFdMO5McKlTz4uCagQsiyGZEyIJeSYPU4JI5-1Ra2S8HPrLlNm8YhHq1Rh2y1iTwW3mkAzPcwWg0d0IbPskySB99vosRRQktq-krdo9qKDxTNZWoFtCWl4G2ZvA5ZZKu6W6Hn63T3JHtkPcLCwB9ooki6GvKO3HSzFzXr-8Zo3J0lVcRsrixmwJGVa7Wvjmp_UEIrDrl-xeaDmA_DrLxnXWacalIjB-MvxMMhMnISZIIIcz7-vSKuc9TOBWtSDpkT7SPMusB5VSL4yIYB4vxPI2rrHi832IU6UQ8BmC9EbuEFqLq-R81bOy3Wzl7A_gXoI1bIR78aVBowSiS_4CJjn_C_ZY_-RJ_4L3lWCUNG22zuiIi2l32BojKklsWw4WiVcNYOecXRX4z8jGQZlrocN1Oe4svd41TRQnkskkozFH-TPOvriR1GO28d_EUQcyojec_-wY6gTr7s8nZIsg-k0z9lOKihrAN8Kyu6e89z7PVhe6L5HPSqdaBaq7kjzWfw1bEXfsw=w1699-h1279-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPkHIrpZvLRetb__80FqQqMGBBnEj_ljdWsk0nS0jZYujwL6KAu8Hq4oBRTXd0Xb9ZllhjiFeDrcehDWSY2S14VSTOc-GiqrrM03PObDfScbbnbudQgt5-2wwvmfSFYHkF3Ci1b5fvjUHJJ3r4lgbiMHfu-dgL9pJZFLjhJhXW8Y0chsMhKHRfKs8IRpNijbnaF37T0FceDm_VrlfndEUX0luMzP3fr5q3lyW0ZWAQbKabTmd5CctZZR5UB54_ajjusFARXIRgg_7Q3i3GVlzfZpRAS0YcG8TTyMRfoWI949c6sLGfmQE-IR5UOjzJRs9NqHA_y6DE_0pR7DgETiRixenfVgdGCyghVp5DNyYRZhpvKG1xK_f4KIL0np9y1xxjqyfQCwHgOVCKw_CfcSGP5u8_Ik0u3Hr-nXjxHGRwkLnm4eP508aBo6qVjAsBq_33l9GowDcMKPPE-sgeX6aYw0e-__7Cc6ZDUgXdXxiBaFMNHqIWie-naEYioKuPhgl-TpZrHEOOcJHL872vetaG_7VUXCXb01CtYVqHuAcZCHw4vxGLQUTmy08M8miPt_gfWkkLN2uHlieHLxKjBwDTprVg0N-Y0t8Dqpw1wDhygAJ-TVxyflScOZp8p3Z-lRusUyax8XHgHq6Ozo-EVrKTtVpIwdGz3LVVmLlnvuFIOtA8guomlvVzYKR4g_IqDtqgedSObp2Z1gYZHneeBvfyTq1D-pj2AWhpBK05Kmnkx8PGSbEEesI-Mkq6h8q95-rj69XO94seMWfGEO41nVn5Lq9AvNAzdguAtcF2wrbJjfVmlPwMW8HaV4JKNNvJ4tBoCkiw5ciacUba_xqXtoqeXIzdFE7hgYEPO98-k1yOp-ttpLSNUPDYGWV_pFUCQRWNA-tYRyral2lVOLHCHWa9_ozugnpppuAuhwjFHkx93gNXsxjm67q7VxlSVgNiADWkxECEFh73tWcKG4FWq_uSSUba79Ena=w1699-h1279-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
Lower crank case
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPdJf4z8EC-HvTRaEamKBueNTStTZTWUXMy6iq2TFHVbs-7y8uBCeSh4NHfbNg8uVi96POJ9Z7wpHYIgO65t3UPnCr976_Q8pVZzXYtD_Q-EY7m2KpUfZ_D5P4AIJAAAMpkh9AX2fbQp28klyN46V01L6ZOPHkon54ih8l1_9G7_XrRkTIzpQceYiAWsELoRjCU18g-PdJ-oLY0bO6PybwDAEEA_-ozCGlRfNRJ3Tqw25JwWjG0skqjyRgm-Vkg9fqQ5rPDpnZFZMunHmmT9lWrOVGH5cMTsPwLwKSOusWTwLi_U7XJGqHDrN1SSPwhp7IFA5mo7Kkg5cT9t65f_ifU9EI15q4uw5AoIl9hpzoO1lSVwKArALtVqA5e6mh-tNRCfLsHg0QAoDerSi51ibA4wdKRUVYsi-duLsP4yakP3e9toYt0ZhZFNMsjQbw-D0929cD3gmCLtOOaa21ECwUS6klIK1IYhuotIDd8OjP9yC_0wXK30m3_CzjQyBTPRmSRhSLSJlnfJngfSdRjZRQmB5qb3C_595VUf3Ob8I9wwQara3Qs_IOf2_znGQ-m2BxZ6vGaB3bEgzze6FU98bNfDrLz6K8NGD93LVFq-HbAh9B81qbptssVcaSPJgvQUebdh8Y5yiOa-xpVyv4GHpRY3zwbR7wSHLFEr3sxI37p4oMPZhqKYdRth9e2eKeVepHi8SmF1woj2239rDWGYnlSvocU2FHDFYmx0ZAHCNH7ys1E_ZgMswyjCIY6bwmZHXrALvqmjSPCu0XZWeWa7Md_MHJwa3DDClge5Lp-7TLX35MoM4ONWw0bjMo4IyXMB1ZxAvntmvQ6WQIqvGwMjcUob_yYqg4zFZ1PfhlwwmAeMOuYBMuAKDPzAaZpQPFzT8dT4I2QP9lpUNcC-uv-FIr6176tA2u0JXBpocdznEzP344afxMNGQ33N_JyLe6HQGyGX1rIWzTmgHJuuaCC1di_OS8X1BS7=w1699-h1279-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPxlruCAa6-GylXZj0F7mlwokk1B2JQgpiGk0mChIbdAnFPGGWdM743p1IlWA-JTJbQEvtnY5RyR2GmZaWAh07dKU-K-V2BavYEocY0A0WoZQvAvA8D301za2q29-Fz_d9BJZIuNz37rVDlCSBO_X3Hrl9psg_0RvlQbuo9JZSJPUiCP_AUlba8rjlGo8Mo9YfvnLai5Ndp6Dgi9PbWJe1olNERYfe17iAycSc9nAhGPMlTC43qlCBiHd006mdi2iWKWBKWFKTogNN7-v2YR2kp7aN1agQEAN0csWoCgo3tpPmIOsT1RN6-pT8cudubPS4iQ6P_OjZmfFr6Msog8nm68PUBWK96lvAyVGcLvlXjKR4MDBt-7CdCXJGtgQvO2T3TG2XibDrqh-7Jdeb_v0DRVoO9npRv7LvQqBVgKo9hiz2on2G0txJSBB_zpRddfY9hB_Kldj24UpORFukQmE9pSFCLmZcQ42PcXA9u4mZhAS6ldbR01WxqCUoNL0_ckLyPSaYsZ2YyNvMGBNtpFxL7raG9Y-yzZNLdV8WpmccdgsiiX3ilC5XRgDAZj29YhzWwKpu8HpEZaUTJMJciATEuEWeuQC1Qk_EOK7NzL03s7hzPciuf2YB8ABaiIQWhnjJWo0SOHW-nCpB6iyRomqUfYfXa7KzYjuK18WseW6H7CKKWUtqWO9Nb68XAljHZY6I8yEno3J0hv1VbazJGvjRQy-7byHW3UIPSVrdn8cpEBtHAnAhpSkewLCHoaIFJXgDuL3ilgfAyI38k8liumk8bmC39j9y8BIatvL9DgOdhIjGvANuQnrN_sTQeQIFevmoJgMCTjgQzAyTiu7bd6pNa6hZI5roOhpdE8T9GZE19SorK0WL5LZK3Lp7oyihwDi_6PDYQh-R5fPbBvB3dp2AtgLvKGiXmMJhTIFaY1RP9ClAQR-dfOn2NtGOmH3Rho0QdfLEYnv8tR0Mxrs_KhKJxrLNXihQ=w1699-h1279-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
Con rod example
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczOL3Vdli77efG-OVGC8VjY0XjBuidEry4ogTpqaJPeJ1UqZ--YHzBEH6gWZ7QU_CNjxJhhsYUNtVFc1Ggh9v65UsZdv2XiWdwAXqPALDL8OFayM676-ikQXYqip-dXde1KXGETZNV9xLohPXM9yARETgjxI9OuP2V7Pu62ErpgYoRTqYZxoPyLLrIy5Td3uh_3NvbA05ihqukZ4BCvtLBG2FMqg-fH1wHFBoQVialnLSCf8RxRiQXj27yaY2_6iDRNj-PhJ4qqU-dGG5P7chgsRCY7qK5Xkn0IioyrW7GhQBZc88WokEm0HEuGxauEHLdZzlSwbVSUPh4R4rfDSPiz6HTAYNDpF97UH1_9abSZPbYgnmYxJGSo4-JiBGPZE9ytJJ0IQ6ApGQ-P3ETSRr4qb0Bl0nG3fzd0l6TaCPW9gWF4KPuSUZkjD9fAXtbvW8OCgTrxy2eLUespSE4z06u2woSig4vZtdnlO9Qn7X_nP-MdRodwQaIPhZZI2IaGgg2_VTpCL1qisuoXlr4sf_MEPwDJoDXVA0jGtaILog0_cUUcJiNWO73lD8_vRwNlcV9Jytgvoq6Zg89k78KDU4ayMPtY5B7DVKhvcVwsoz2HIxtA9Gds7RZ2WsWcAdaB-FWhqvtYsxc5NFr_Ek_K-F4IACGac57Lw2yB-UGjkpHe7WnCJylYxV72wVKZU6YAw5Ysq-RlrWvXDBgOD2DamfHfEDCLZ0nqGkT_0cWYlbBWnwjkG-laDKO-jjxMLaEVVdug6vAZT_zJ5G1QkN22pm003WzmjX8A-g0mZBu-KC5Q4Zun-jmI_Q6IdicNtyOhEmmyF1bKfGZK607CPHDy4MPRB3FEk3DNrU8x8mP3Thgz0lY93O5_7sET1EHrj6WV__Ubi106EPVIgPN3uUQXpqvXclcQl-xXSl-AFPgLJXzoAmXMUBX8sDXUuJjqax6L3TvTTHzV8Xmr-RH9QTjqD1wRCcvmXcq8=w1699-h1279-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczP6eOuAf4Y0urUKzFH9jQhXHgfBnxZ9oROW0EKlsmcz1GTVWRwPSUfyz3v0pctuGSX0JpYCWBYgimQIof57yvJB2cb4HGlyR2io0rdb_4nRpRMXdGNXzk2SVGqjhgIzt3piUCD0ZHbw2qZQbg0bdX1IcFyGimEK1zIB84ptjRBayBopRnN1LyUC51YrCYZ0v0n1Tyq-PiZlYssbz83-FFLnU2ZakXYlG5avkfpGsA8QyebXcIl6J67N9tKUOeC5k-oRv5VvmociOZgL7_17ZTc9__LvnIlRaIEcLx4rhWMJ-SToaA4KkRcoEY6TeF7bYA_6vPay-NVnDBLef_yKUVT1JKzVEMj2m4SS0zCIBMnsy65n_bjFS-jd7aTxpPTYjbdMTdL2Wdreef9XHAAoZk8qAqMsfdHEgPnjh4ifhABHd27RQPZEvTFdu2Fw3z0go21xxi2CfAmqCc8nT-LPW-scFvsBE_eIMA0_zv0_j-MS7Wh3_x4eEW3f7WFG58KguDfkMthDkAqbfaMqu-eeI1XTWlymJk1bWP9iBiAaBunbLV_h_sicFngOXTm-uetu4yjK3ktzNQQDMQq8jBVa8NwOEwn5Xqz3lNptd5nj0svKP-pdhABNWMv3gF-bESJXhq2pNXgkRUSz_WfzRYSfms_sLNh8gC6ji9Zx3WQjmUw8wTsizvnMUkgmtdc1K_t89e8NFUxZwqQCyRxX3jmtBSaPpfMpeCT3cwBu9XMZ9j6CFXmiRN8RHaxPxwz5TgLv0ZxZncjdsXqZ5lnXwgE-uwwzyQALJHTmS-ZDermUSHWFDxA3x8UJHUFmURy4u3Do0XrJOX9Zj_dI2_P10rxINnMbzltJRMorUqmJYfGLCENjcPjTI7P1CNl9VPWHcjZEmheE4Vqdj4YdD-Q2JgTIT7XLbiCNF4EhaTfBA6PieE_-sV1Wj7oWwHcFljGS7h1tm9dzrK0tno-DezGJFcH0QiRFPRKYaeI=w1699-h1279-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
Another con rod
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczPDgtmkHPspfTme9XgvEgiuV3DdI45fphLHvno9w6lrKRfU8fxcMZ07TAlgRw6DDIiE00xEuiMxH5FYaohT-YJmXh0aT8c8UQntAfcAjgOLZq10qqZ3a_00IJj1vX_zGSMSva-pffJwd_qnEpgZd6caFeVQrooiGsTdeTPtTwj7FZHUh_R3SUQjCBBv7Tgb6jkdFaXMchP_x8aZ-2ro8aUkj_VsQcYVY1qLrvgPIUMhSmdHZ8gVkk4b7ITk-O0BfU04t0-68wZxOAFy2eW7CUufHEjxWK6Xmlt9UaPxSPZuM8_TbVZ3Z7Y-yDrT8uTNiamGAka58Ev9HqGE0wSxLYTfGm_gzlYXaG9xAtt2jizq0pULFQGxENtLuf1IWAbgdZxcAr-RJ-th-gJ0rg9tqDkGjylvJxAYqeopRbYLjF-vTzd-t5WhoRGSo4r7aU2W5knymn5S6MrTWrUBq7tdf2R3J441VFAAsg94h-RaZT5XWaoFyfsv5IUQP2grh1jYTuL585qiamRhUG7NrZnFp1SwNV-m0zKXoi1vdJ2V3w9PHFVOWTHPV5Iu-a9p4F9xR3nnSb7hTVcEt3gkmETeemiwChV_km1_PvpWzWmP30i71uwNmqerdOkew4yCZ8wFb-wNQw8W3YMe68D-uWRMqdipNvwxWoDVZFEkCe89DaZWXWSIWNvPbyGCebhoW5WfXY_34BMy7fZ_s1hZX-SvcJrmw5LWLcFbO8wXAHOzDDadLCpHyfOfnxsfM9mIM8OnjqUDUFaPCXnyFpRqUBgHtwJq2CkZVEQHq5tp61LI3esEDn36wbO28yC0COqO97rq5g-XLuSHCZWiazcMN7qaWdGbVLF4uqUEpIt8olxPKqNqepqJuQEDkMXQ29SNEnhvrEMzYx4fXO8QxReGbMwWMVmd26PV7jJRHiB-L-lC1LiiZgeEAVRxvjWjP4QiaihvnfKH9tETZz_nNmz1IXgI2fwafG1K_8R2=w963-h1279-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczMGzVinyD0fEiOHNcdqTTO7ElTzQH_jZ3QGihcqe62gplRXEE2LhiccoEO_SLYTJYOXclVKoS5GYC4iwIZm9zRlk-xaaRoyibxCmcLmhcwzFVxDrtyCINK8BXNfJ2fYtqPnumBvniP3I9cmUkP43zpE4fl9WSMnhmt_iS-awAUxAt65Rhm81Uo_xFIpz0k6S-sHjGjIwMOx8uWbE6HksT0UUB_HHKmjVoUGye-QZGDHuiN6Z-94p-12PcMT7bEmWfgyTg998yh9OxzX6jE-HuYNw02nWZCRqGFSX42e3-nxv5ELJDPgg2EHW_tw-K1xoQJblXbYuVOOh5yfsTDmMjWgRsMIfTO0RAeC4SFXKjxSYJyN8yhPwlXbeD42g6rvnDGDalgNnB9SAWoTDKL5vcmgHwqE8oyB7rwl9JWPrGdKupMXNGbWNtVXimSYt9j3c9AeARDC-IOngimcPCuii9npkbQGWb2AJglLCFEKpWYUvZ9SXxGSATKBDhtHR5jhpnkn4bd5a9HtABR4vFvR288iLUW61CogJGIwkqix5uMNxmiHYvIenkTP1YieLW2Ofze0BFIGJEhU9TrNitDYc3JcwzJAhcilZfO51iUxtRyqOSmQSyzeODg0_YK_jpldQyz0fWXoZz0W3fq-wEbXXpaTa5erRTl9zzJ45nmcCpkGEOHTnK7mBDxU83G_SKAIxjq87ud8C2k6PpjnZm2ACsq5YSGOPDCjM_IvpBi-q9PWKODW1_vyriYxlb1mhxj2xrZgSyMpdl9tmCS_QJr91xzyqJeUxEhRl4MzWZRO_EFZfsaBC9kmkFrejoh3MZI7PyQv_sUwCKtA9-syMbNBl6n1Rt0cBGCCIC0xiCqO18hvF1pipKu8QRDZ2gpmzno3fEBaTKWGWpdUMVyhTZBESc54nm_0x_kxh-WsEs9idR3fUMrMyphj0MGcfzoH6vNxuAFmLKt8zKk4zvro4eXh1Nyrmfwl-Y_R=w1699-h1279-s-no-gm?authuser=0)
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Your engine has suffered from oil starvation or dirty oil, those shells don't look good.
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Neither does the journal surface and i agree with Julie not enough oil changes, i would look for a better crank, possibly with rods and replace the mains
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I know that photos can make journal's appear worse than they actually are but looking at those I would do as Bryanj suggested, find another crank. If you replace those worn shells with new and use that same crank you'll be wasting your money and time. Same goes for the big ends.
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I'll give a good clean tonight or tomorrow and get rid of all the oil and grime. Its my first time doing a rebuild but it doesnt seem too far from these replacement crankshafts.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/375274886316?itmmeta=01HQXA10VEERSW3BT3Y66F6C4R&hash=item57602054ac:g:o84AAOSwrFdkoB9r&itmprp=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8AKr4Ep4hVTll7AIMNUs5vK1xxCRmHXus9Yx3rmrZk5CIOoba1BWmYU%2FbUVe1KdN98AJY%2FkMjnFxa4%2BdqVhws3HE4MtLbs9V8HRSd1DBc4xQdrTuTPdEMyfIGCqpem4Ds0SuJSn9wEI3TOLUcjNqXsIgJD8xoDjJuB%2F1z0oQlqZ0nBxUw3DG80g2mJVXP6Yz1e%2FJMq4SfdaGKe44zB25wJ0lInFKlFqbST%2BezZBZxKtg8zQmNhWjpKXhwXfo%2F3MsxG3nZPJS6pYoDx%2BuD0zaGetIgO5%2FWzu%2FXd3jveFJ9Ln%2Bxr2QtlKyMwtg5IuhrLtreQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-SNhKq_Yw
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/204673292768?itmmeta=01HQXA10VE5YNYFQNRPQ4YSX8C&hash=item2fa77a99e0:g:RDQAAOSwBfRlw7JN&itmprp=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0FqCbxO1e6qmujg7mrLyab2Or9HCuS6dvjx2KgdPQ4xMOPVdPoASoOyTuGxMEuVuQWU0FH6Ge1Ub3nnnWlNm2N5kvx5CA1gahlQsh8hn2XkNLrxAlit7b8Y2cTTbqduHvrRm0BG7Cqm711Mi25pk4te2yAUf0Cxm%2B%2FzRI3C3scZxVe8xqp0tqnFKPQTdmKGZIX4PjOHt%2BzLFVLSpkGnBYeF%2B9nLEKQl6FBSi9gY%2FwfeyrW9N7a48QPzZ9r2RmdngbxZDtO4J91vXKCB2pbbugRU%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-SNhKq_Yw
Update, Julie has just updated me regarding my rebore. Looks like there was silicone mastic blocking some oil passages. Regarding a replacement crankshaft, they dont seem too bad price wise.
Would it be more hassle trying to get new bearings to fit a new crankshaft and my current con rods? Or would it be easier to fit new bearing to a crankshaft that comes with the con rods?
There are 2 on ebay. Option 1 https://tinyurl.com/mrxffku7 Option 2 https://tinyurl.com/mu7fny3e
Without con rods. Option 1 https://tinyurl.com/3fcbp249 option 2 https://tinyurl.com/y6un5ha9
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I bought a crank & con rods from DK for my 500 - they were as described - the con rods shell were like new. 👍👍👍
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I bought a crank & con rods from DK for my 500 - they were as described - the con rods shell were like new. 👍👍👍
Whats DK?
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So after doing some googling and watching videos on how to measure the crankshaft, I've ordered a micrometer. So I'll try to measure and work out the sizings for the shells, buy 1 set, measure with plastigauge then order a full set of shells or 1 set of the next size up and plastigauge again.
Could I get some opinions on the crankshafts I have linked?
400fourbits also has one for sale. https://400fourbits.co.uk/
After Teds recommendation could someone take a look at these 2 options https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/312044879538?itmmeta=01HQXPVR92HVDMQ5AS8Q6HNVN8&hash=item48a752feb2:g:ZS4AAOSwi0lg3u8q and https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313344578679?itmmeta=01HQXPVR92FYBSGWTXTKKDEPWH&hash=item48f4cad477:g:13QAAOSw5FRgbExl
Or if any of the other ones I've linked seem good let me know.
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I bought a crank & con rods from DK for my 500 - they were as described - the con rods shell were like new. 👍👍👍
Whats DK?
dkmotorcyclespares an eBay shop they break imported bikes. They also have a website iirc.
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If 400four bits has one he is a member on here as as far as i know fully trustworthy.
Personaly i would buy crank and rods as chances are the big ends would be ok and you would only need to buy mains.
No offence meant but if you are ordering a micrometer to measure the mains you wont be accurate enough, the correct use of mics is an art and the accuracy required is not easy to learn, you would be better taking it to a good engineering firm for accuracy
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I second what Bryan has said I bought a Micrometer that in all honesty was not really accurate enough - I relied heavily on the use of Plastigauge - that stuff is not always as easy to use as it sounds if like me you do not have an engineering background.
I have found Steve at 400 bits gives an honest description as to condition as does DK.
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If 400four bits has one he is a member on here as as far as i know fully trustworthy.
Personaly i would buy crank and rods as chances are the big ends would be ok and you would only need to buy mains.
No offence meant but if you are ordering a micrometer to measure the mains you wont be accurate enough, the correct use of mics is an art and the accuracy required is not easy to learn, you would be better taking it to a good engineering firm for accuracy
just thought I'd give it a go with a micrometer and plastigauge. If crank and rods are the way to go I'll do that.
What would you go for out of these two: option 1 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/312044879538?itmmeta=01HQXPVR92HVDMQ5AS8Q6HNVN8&hash=item48a752feb2:g:ZS4AAOSwi0lg3u8q
option 2 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313344578679?itmmeta=01HQXPVR92FYBSGWTXTKKDEPWH&hash=item48f4cad477:g:13QAAOSw5FRgbExl
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Both those look same to me and would save you spending roughly £80 on big end shells.
Plastigauge is accurat when used correctly but you need a main bearing pin size to start from.
What are the letter codes from the rear of your crankcases?
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Where in northwest are you as i have family up round Bury/Ramsbottom
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Both those look same to me and would save you spending roughly £80 on big end shells.
Plastigauge is accurat when used correctly but you need a main bearing pin size to start from.
What are the letter codes from the rear of your crankcases?
The crankcase code is BAAAA.
I'm near Preston.
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It does help if you are able to identify by the colour marks on the edge of one of the "A" mains journals as that gives you a starting point. Probably Green or Brown.
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At least thats only 2 different case codes to look up, Preston is a bit too far extra to come andcmeasure if for you sorry
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The difference in shell thickness from one colour to the next is very little and Plastigauge results are not 100% accurate or easy to interpret. If in any doubt go thicker up the colour scale and run in carefully is my advice. If you need a lot of shells cheapest route is to import from impex in Japan.
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Ive tried to figure it out and looked through other posts. But how do you work out the shells needed from the crankcase codes?
Would these be the ones to use for the new crankshaft?
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You need to look at the letter & number combination that is on the edge of the crank webs. These will give you the shell colour to use on a particular journal. They are not stamped on the webs but are printed and are very hard to see. Best way is to wipe the web in petrol as that highlights them.
In my case the web codes were 2, 2A, 2A, 1A, 1A. When you combine these with the codes stamped on the cases AABBA and cross reference with the bearing code table this will give you the shell colour you require for each bearing journal. You can therefore install a second hand crank in your original cases providing you read the crank webs codes correctly. As I said these codes can be almost impossible to see but they are there you just have to use petrol and move the crank around in the light and you will see them.
Do you have a Haynes manual, the bearing code reference chart is in there.
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Yeah, I've got the Haynes manual and I've also been using the shop manual pfd. I'll try the petrol trick with the new crank. When it arrives. But good to know its hopefully just a case of getting all the codes and working it out.
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Ash has come to your rescue,. Go to Ash's Dropbox on the top menu bar and you will find the Honda shop manual for the CB350/400. It contains ALL the information you need to rebuild your bike.
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It all sounds very complicated but is actually very easy once you find the crank codes. Use a magnifying glass as it will make it easier.
The difficulty starts when it comes to locating the shells and prising open the wallet to pay for them!
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Mains
Black 13315-333-003
Brown 13316-333-003
Green 13317-333-003
I believe these are the colours & part numbers for the 400 mains in descending order of thickness, Black being the thickest.
This is for the conrod bearings.
Black 13215-333-003
Brown 13216-333-003
Green 13217-333-003
Yellow 13218-333-003
Red 13219-333-003
Some colours are harder to source.
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The table and codes works for crankshaft and case in as new condition. The crankcase is protected by the shell so should not have altered but any wearon the crank journals and the codes could be misleading. Hence Plastigauge. I could not find the codes on the crankshaft and I think it is quite typical that they have disappeared. If like I said above you assume your crank is in the smaller diameter pins category you can then use the case codes to conservatively pick a shell that will be thick enough, assuming it’s available which is the next problem. Looking at the 550 table my choice was going to be green, brown or the unavailable black so going brown across the board was my compromise choice, backed up by Plastigauge.engine turned freely and oil pressure witnessed by valve cover spray is good.
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My plan is when the new crankshaft arrives, figure out the shells needed from the codes and order 1 set, then try that set with plastigauge and see what it shows. I'll then probably ask for some advice here.
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As said you can use the tightest tollerance possible and run in carefully, Honda built them so they just neede a short bedding in.
If you do go the tight way oil change at 500, 1500 then every 1500 and no max running till after the 1500
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Back again. So the new crankshaft arrived and it does look a lot better than the old one.
https://imgur.com/a/IFNfRnb pictures of the codes on the webs
It looks like the codes are 1 1A 1A 1A 1A the crankcase codes are BAAAA.
From looking at my haynes manual I get yellow bearings.
Is that right or wrong?
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You need to have the journals measurements to check for for any wear/ovality or is that how you have arrived at Yellow for the conrods from the tables?
Depending on the actual journal size I would re-visit the table probably using either Green or Brown Shells then check each fitment for clearance with Plastigauge.
Not sure there are any Yellows available, blacks can be difficult to find sometimes.
Just my thoughts not gospel, I'm talking about the con rods here not the mains.
Check the main journal dimensions then check the tables for the correct mains colour.
It's confusing as the two tables have the number on a different axis iirc.
I would expect the mains to be Brown for number 1 main then the remainder to be Green. As has been said you can go up a thickness if you run the engine in for a longer period.
More experienced members might confirm my thoughts or disagree - this is why accurate micrometer readings are essential.
When I was in your situation there was an understandable reluctance to confirm colour choices by memebers here - Ken was my guiding light. Bryan or Graham are experienced in this area.
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You have written 1 1A 1A 1A 1A 1A in your post. I guess the extra 1A is a typo.
All 1s on the crank and BAAAA will give you 1 Green and 4 Yellow for the mains.
You need to match the letters (4 As) on the crank with the numbers on the con rods to get the big ends.
The letters on the conrods are the weight and should all be the same.
I'm sure someone will put me right if I've got mixed up.
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What is the base measurement for the mains and connecting rod sizes?
The haynes manual says +x number but plus from what base measurement?
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The Honda manual should be in Ashs dropbox and the sizes are in there
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The sizes & tables are in the 400 Parts Manual in Aladin's Cave drop down to the 400 section it will open up and you can download the 400 Parts Manual fig ref 36-45 for mains & conrods
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Im assuming its the 35 and 32 on the graph. What measurement is that?
I've never really used thousandths of an inch before.
https://imgur.com/a/RvqynPu
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Im assuming its the 35 and 32 on the graph. What measurement is that?
I've never really used thousandths of an inch before.
https://imgur.com/a/RvqynPu
Hope I'm not being to basic this is the just the Mains table & how you use it:-
You are not using Imperial but Metric so the top of of the table is the crank mains diameter expressed in mm.
To find the range you need to add the two plus figures to the number to obtain the range for that mains journal.
On the mains the left side letters in the table are the casing codes.
So for your crank journal number 1 with the casing code B the range for that journal is 35.008 to 35.016 mm (hence need for acuracy) The mains journal diameter range is 32.00 to 32.010 when it was new for that crank code if it's visible.
You then move across the table for the crank web number if yours is 1 then that column below contains the possibe shell colours. To the right of your particuar colour column is the clearance gap between the shell & the journal.
This is the gap you measure with the Plastigauge a small gap is tight a bigger one is looser so as to speak, so 20-46 is what you are measuring by compression of the Plastigauge. You must use the right range of Plasigauge - be careful to go by the range not the colour of the material when you buy Plastigauge.
The table for the conrods is similar except the axis layout as you will see are different.
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If you never used thousanths you are knackered as you need to measure to a tenth of one
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If you never used thousanths you are knackered as you need to measure to a tenth of one
As Bryan says you are dealing in Microns of clearance - even the temperature of your hand can alter the journal readings as you hold the Micrometer.
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Where is 45 coming from?
I understand the + and - I just can't figure out + and - from what figure.
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Where is 45 coming from?
I understand the + and - I just can't figure out + and - from what figure.
Sorry my typo error as I was relying on my memory from your tables link - I'v amended the figures now
When you measure the crank journal itself that reading will become obvious in the tables tbh I get confused between the journal allowance & the crank case allowance - it's the journal you are actually measuring so it will be 32.00 to 32.010 iirc.
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Ahh ok got it now. I didnt realise the graph was in millimeters.
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Ahh ok got it now. I didnt realise the graph was in millimeters.
Correct it will fall into place once you measure your crank & look at the chart figures.
I'm not an engineer so the terms like crankcase allowance appear to be not something you can measure at home if I am making sense now.
I was lucky as I was using my original crank so the one Green Shell gave me a starting point - I bought a pair of new Green Shells then using Plastigauge I was able to work out where I needed thicker shells from there as the Plasigauge Gap changed..
My casing code was C A A B A I ended up using Black,Green,Green,Brown,Green. shells for the Mains. My Plasigauge clearances were all around the 38 microns mark. My crank web markings were not all visible hence my reliance on Plastigauge - a fidly process but you get better at it with practice - worth looking on U tube to get an idea of how to do it.
Additionally As the crank wears for a particular casing code you fit a thicker shell as you can't have the crank ground to fit oversize shells as you would for some car cranks.
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My initial main clearance for the crankshaft measurements is below. Its the result of 32 - the measurement.
stator end on the left
0.01124mm 0.01632mm 0.01378mm 0.01378mm 0.01378mm
Crankcase codes are B A A A A
If im reading the chart correctly I would need 1 green 4 brown. Does that sound correct?
Rechecked it and it should be 1 BROWN and 4 GREEN. I dont think i could do all 5 brown, it would be too little clearance for the A marked ones.
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When you say the clearance is 0.01124, do you mean the crank measured 31.98876?
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Just looking at the crank case codes B A A A A
I would expect B (number one) to need the thickest shell i.e. probably Brown the A's probably all Green as a starting point.
Then be guided by Plastigauge clearances.
I do not understand your posted measurements - the second one looks out of place though.
Others here will have more reliable advice as I am a relative novice
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When you say the clearance is 0.01124, do you mean the crank measured 31.98876?
Yeah, the figures I gave are just the clearance, so 32 - whatever the measurement was.
The 2nd measurement was a bit odd but the measurements I got from measuring it in a few places was 31.98368mm 3 times.
The way I read the chart was like this. First code is B so the crankcase allowance row B, then the clearance is 0.01124mm or 0.011mm so its the - 0.010 to 0.020 column so BROWN.
Actually reading it out loud and typing it, it should be 1 BROWN 4 GREEN.
I'll order 1 set of green and 1 set of brown and measure with plastigauge.
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Ok, from the measurements it's 1 Brown, 4 Green.
Like you say order a set and plastigauge to check.
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Out of interest does number 2 mains journal look visually different to the others in any way?
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Out of interest does number 2 mains journal look visually different to the others in any way?
Gave it another clean today and remeasured it, it measured similar to the others, I think it was just still dirty. All the main journals look pretty much the same.
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👍👍👍
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Just trying to replace the alloy washers at the camshaft ends
I am trying Dowty seals
Same size,thickness
Should be an acceptable substitute (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240320/c78e6747e79de45939283102302170df.jpg)
Sent from my SM-A546E using Tapatalk
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Sometimes they work sometimes not, i bought a bag of 6mm alloy washers off fleabay, about 75% efective so sometimes need replacing but that is not a horrible job
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Update.
My brown and green bearing sets arrived from impex. Took a while to get them on their end but only took 5 days to arrive from Japan which is crazy.
Pictures of plastigauge measurements here: https://imgur.com/a/WOXySvp
Ive noted which one is brown. They are all 7 thousandths or less, except one which I will measure again.
From looking back at the chart could I change the greens to browns or would that be too tight of a tolerance?
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My first observation is why are you looking at the Imperial Scale when all the manuals bearing tollerances are Metric.
Secondly what scale of Plasigauge are you using?
Presumably the other side of your Plastigauge will show the metric readings.
If you look at the scale the smaller the clearance the more the Plastigauge is compressed.
Check what the 7 reading is by looking at the Imperial range of the Plasigauge I doubt somehow it's 7 thousandths of an inch that sounds excessive my mains were around 38 Microns that's 1.49606 thou". The big ends were about 25 microns.
If I'm wrong someone will jump in.
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Someone on this thread said green so I got 0.007″ to 0.020″ (0.175mm – 0.500mm).
I didn't realize there was a metric scale on the other side until I measured 4 of the bearings, I'll have another look. Can I just match the same 7 reading location on the metric scale?
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Yes.
The gauge I used is 0.001 to 0.003"
0.025 to 0.076 mm
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Would it be worth getting a smaller gauge?
Where did you get it from? I can only find big boxes of it that are £35+
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Would it be worth getting a smaller gauge?
Where did you get it from? I can only find big boxes of it that are £35+
I believe you need to work with Platigauge that will measure the small gap involved.
Yes its expensive I can't remember where I bought mine but I did buy the wrong size first time as I bought on the colour code rather than the range.
I will send you a PM shortly.
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Would it be worth getting a smaller gauge?
Where did you get it from? I can only find big boxes of it that are £35+
Look on ebay or amazon for a small box of various thickness Plastigauge. That's what I bought for mine. It had small quantities of Red, Green and White if I remember correctly.
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Here you go, this is where I bought mine. Very quick delivery as well.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264575277700?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=J-zL353uSQe&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=5XpGce3OSuS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
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Here you go, this is where I bought mine. Very quick delivery as well.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264575277700?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=J-zL353uSQe&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=5XpGce3OSuS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Thats the size I originally used. Ted recommended going smaller to 0.025 to 0.076 mm. Which only seem to be sold in bigger quantities or are from the US. Luckily Ted had some spare which he kindly sold to me.
Working through measuring them now, got 3/4 of the way and my electric ratched went flat. I don't fancy fully tightening and undoing 10 bolts over a dozen times each :D
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Bearing clearance update 2.
From the generator side first:
brown 0.025mm green 0.038mm green 0.025mm green 0.050mm green 0.050mm
brown 0.025mm
I put the brown in one of the green that measured at 0.050mm and it went down to 0.025mm. I'll remeasure the one that gave a reading of 0.038mm.
I think the best thing to do would be to go BROWN GREEN GREEN BROWN BROWN.
Then as other people have said, run it in carefully.
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I agree just run her in carefully rev wise.