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Messages - stevush
1
« on: April 08, 2021, 05:15:01 PM »
DS have got back to me quite quickly. Apparently they have a similar tank and a frame in stock and they said it was tight... but they managed to fit it. They didn't say if the coils etc were in place, I doubt they were. They've offered a refund but that leaves me back at square one!
I think I'm going to grind a little from the lugs to get it to fit but obviously taking the grinder to a new tank is not ideal. I haven't had it painted yet so not the end of the world.
On the petcock..
There are lots of universal 14mm petcocks on ebay that fit Honda bikes from as little as £12, is the genuine article (16950KCPJ01) very different?
Thanks
Steve
2
« on: April 08, 2021, 08:08:13 AM »
I've already fitted the filler cap no problem but those lugs for the rubber are definitely the problem. I've removed the rubber mounts completely and it still wont go over the spine of the frame. DS is aware of my problem and they've said they'll get back to me today so lets ee where we go.
Thanks
Steve
3
« on: April 07, 2021, 10:04:53 PM »
The problem I have with the tank is that the lugs to locate the tank onto the rubber mounts aren't wide enough to go over the spine of the frame. I'll enclose pics
Thanks
Steve
4
« on: April 07, 2021, 02:32:28 PM »
Thanks for the reply. I wasn't aware that there was a brass reducer to go between petcock and tank, I assumed it was just a straight fit.
Unfortunately I've had to get back to DS today, the tank doesn't fit! Its too narrow and the front where the tank rubbers locate and wont go over the spine of the frame. I think I'll see where we go from here with DS first then I'll PM you if I need the part as you suggested.
Many Thanks
Steve
5
« on: April 07, 2021, 12:41:49 PM »
The picture is showing the threaded section that's welded into the tank, any petcock would have to match those threads at approx 14mm
Thanks
Steve
6
« on: April 07, 2021, 11:38:34 AM »
Well after sterling service for 40 odd years my F2 tank started leaking so I've bit the bullet and bought a new one from DS. The description on their site says that the tank requires the USA type F2 petcock, otherwise order part number 16950KCPJ01 (£62.40 inc VAT).
I assumed that this is the 20mm tap, great! the old one should fit but no. The new tank has arrived with the threads on the tank measuring approx 14mm I thought that Honda petcocks were all either 16mm or 20mm. Plenty of replacement 16mm petcocks around on ebay and there are some 14mm around £20 is this what people are using ? Anyone had the same problem ?
Thanks
Steve
7
« on: July 05, 2018, 07:07:43 PM »
Many thanks for the detail reply Simon and co, I've been away a while and I'm just getting back into it. The enclosed pic is my multimeter set for continuity, I have 3 rectifiers and Ive tested them all (on the bench) I have no continuity between the 3 yellow (inputs) and the red/white outputs on any of them. Does the bike need to be running and all connections made ? I've set the meter for resistance on the smallest scale (200) and tested the green and white field coils (again I have 3 units) and they all test (on the bench) at 4.6 The stator AC output I'll look at tomorrow. I apologise in advance, I think I understand the theory but maybe I'm not testing right  I'm not sure if everything needs to be connected and running
8
« on: June 16, 2018, 10:14:33 AM »
OK Lobo, Interesting, thanks for the info, I'll try that over the weekend sometime.
What readings would I expect to tell me if its good/bad ?
Thanks
Steve
9
« on: June 15, 2018, 07:58:29 PM »
So.. I've disconnected the multiplug connector from the alternator. There are 3 yellow wires from the alternator, I've checked all three and there is continuity to ground on ALL of them..  Steve
10
« on: June 15, 2018, 06:37:38 PM »
I do have a multimeter but I'm a relative novice with it. I can check continuity, check voltage readings (thats how I tested volts across the battery) but not much more. Resistance is beyond me I think..  " check for AC voltage on the three pairs of yellow wires that exit the engine into loom".. Not sure how I'd do that Steve
11
« on: June 15, 2018, 01:56:01 PM »
I have a few spares so maybe I'll swap the rectifier and see if it makes any difference. Looks like the alternator isn't difficult to swap either ?
Thanks
Steve
12
« on: June 15, 2018, 11:25:23 AM »
Hi,
Have had a problem with my 400/4 regarding charging. It seems to be charging OK during normal riding, starts first time on the button even after leaving it for 1/2 weeks but if I ride with headlights on for say 10/15 miles it discharges the battery and next time I try to start with the button, the battery won't turn the starter but it will kick first time. I've just fitted a new fully charged battery and I've connected a multimeter across the battery when running at 3/4000 rpm and I'm getting 12.02. I've cleaned the points on the voltage regulator, swapped it with another 2 regulators but I can seem to get a higher reading. I suspect the alternator is not working correctly, any further tests to prove this ?
Thanks
Steve
13
« on: May 07, 2017, 11:55:31 AM »
Thanks for the Diode Alan, you have a PM. I took the diode out altogether. I've ordered a new genuine clutch switch from DS this morning, the (new) one that I got last week fell apart in my hands before I even got a chance to fit it. That's the second (new) one I've had that was rubbish so I'm hoping 3rd time lucky. Went to start the bike this morning with diode and clutch switch out and nothing at the starter button in neutral..... Put diode back in, power to the button and it started straight up. I'm hopefully on the last lap now, I'll post pictures when finished. I just need carbs setting up, an engine tune and (hopefully) an MOT. Roll on Sunmmer Regards Steve
14
« on: May 07, 2017, 09:52:53 AM »
OK Mike, thanks for looking. Anyone else got one ?
Regards
Steve
15
« on: May 04, 2017, 07:04:14 PM »
Great stuff, thanks
Steve
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