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Messages - WestYorkshireBiker
16
« on: September 09, 2020, 09:10:38 PM »
Hi. I've got two cylinder bores as part of my K1 restoration and need some help. I'm trying to identify if I have a K1 cylinder bore from the two in the attached pics as the bike came with a K6 engine installed but the original K1 in bits. The K1 in the pic has more o-rings than the K6. My goal is to match my K1 cylinder head with the K6 in the pic if possible as one of the K1 liners is cracked. I checked cmsln online which shows the K1 just having the two o-rings but don't know how accurate that is. Hope that makes sense! Thank all.   Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
17
« on: August 30, 2020, 06:26:50 PM »
With taps and dies, you get what you pay for. Go for known brands like Warrior, Presto, etc. They must be HSS, and slpit diesso you can 'fernurgle' a thread as required, Buy as you require or you will be paying for tools you don't use (trust me, I have tools people have never even heard of). Over the years my collection of t's & d's include metric course, up tp 25mm, many metric fine up to 26mm, bsf, bsp, whitworth, unc, unf, ba, and a full set of Venezuelan Beaver's Trap thread! (and many specials,some l/hand thread). Yup, a man can't live without taps and dies!
Thanks. Pretty much doing that. Just buying what I need. Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
18
« on: August 30, 2020, 04:11:54 PM »
19
« on: August 29, 2020, 04:16:52 PM »
It can be a very expensive hobby trying to remove these. Stud A is still available at about £15 each and there are 12 of those. Stud B has not been available for many years. Add in the cost of spark eroding at £25 a pop and you are looking at a shed load of money, just to replace something that with a good clean could be good to go 
Thanks. Another question! I'm struggling to remove the front engine mount bolt. All the others came out no probs. It's just a straight through bolt right? Can't turn the head after heat and brute force. Don't want to get the big hammer out either just yet! Edit: nevermind. Bolt sheared off despite my heat cycling and gentle persuasion.... Thanks.  Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
20
« on: August 28, 2020, 06:24:21 PM »
They are M8 X 1.25.
Why are you trying to take them out ? Leave them alone or you will be looking for a engineering firm that has a spark eroder ( EDM machine ) to remove the broken bits.
Some of these stud holes can not be heli-coiled as they are a oil way for oil to be feed to the head
Thanks. Replacing as the engine has been split and sat in a barn exposed for God knows how long and they have seen better day tbh. Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
21
« on: August 28, 2020, 04:37:55 PM »
These are the two Service Bulletins you need ..they came originally from BryanJ..... Why Honda never ammended the main Shop Manual with this information beats me. My original '69 diecast crank had the Japanese chracaters stamped on the con-rods but yours are something different.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Anyone know if the tap size for cylinder head studs is M7(or8??) * 1.25 pitch. Need some taps as one snapped off and needs TLC! Hoping to be able to drill / tap out as it's too far gone. Failing that's what's best helicoil, vcoil or something else. Thanks. Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
22
« on: August 13, 2020, 07:40:26 AM »
Any markings that look like these
I'll check on Friday but thanks for the info. Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
23
« on: August 12, 2020, 11:16:01 PM »
Does the other side of the rod have Japanese markings on them ?
Not that I could see. They were all blank. Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
24
« on: August 12, 2020, 11:08:00 PM »
Early con rods are weighted differently to the later type and have different markings.
Make sure you know what journal they cam from and what way round that they came off. Do not get these mixed up
Thanks again Trig. I've marked all the rods as I took them off so all ok there. Just got thrown by the lack of markings! Ta. Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
25
« on: August 12, 2020, 09:05:35 PM »
Looks like that needs a new set of gearbox bearings, remove all the oil way bungs and give it a good clean
Yeah it's getting all bearings / o-rings etc etc replaced. Been stood for God knows how long. No rust I can see as it had some oil in but not much. Total restoration and rebuild.
Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
So I was looking at the con rods today and found that none of the usual 1,2 or 3 markings are stamped on. Any idea what the stamps in the pic actually mean (there's no markings on the other side of the rods). I've got the chart to get the correct bearings using the rod and crank journal from the Hondaman book and some plastigauge but not sure why all the rods have these different markings! Yours sincerely Worried from West Yorkshire. (Also not sure if it's a '2 or 7' in the pic)  Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
26
« on: August 10, 2020, 08:21:58 PM »
Looks like that needs a new set of gearbox bearings, remove all the oil way bungs and give it a good clean
Yeah it's getting all bearings / o-rings etc etc replaced. Been stood for God knows how long. No rust I can see as it had some oil in but not much. Total restoration and rebuild. Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
27
« on: August 10, 2020, 06:21:37 PM »
Thanks. Appreciate the help. On with the bottom end tomorrow. Micrometer at the ready!  Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
28
« on: August 10, 2020, 05:41:44 PM »
29
« on: August 10, 2020, 03:37:02 PM »
Barrels are not K1, Head looks K1 but, i need a picture straight down of the top of the head
Like this?   Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
30
« on: August 10, 2020, 02:46:19 PM »
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