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Messages - Erwin83
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151
« on: March 12, 2018, 09:00:33 AM »
Hi, recently joined and apologies as I am sure I am going to re invent many topics 
However as a starting point I am interested in wheel rim widths for my 400-4.going cafe racer route with Avon tyres? and wondering on maximum wheel rim widths .
My project currently has 100 section front , 110 rear Avons fitted, albeit flat, on standard width rims which look decidedly marginal to me !
Research on t'internet has suggested 2.10 front and 2.5 rear, possibly 2.75 rear?. Clearly the tyres fitted need wider rims to make safe / aesthetically pleasing but wondered what advice you can give re widest wheel rim/tyre combination .
Cheers, Pete
I fitted a rear rim (1.85) on a front hub and that works nicely on my 350. I wonder if you can go much wider than a 2,1 on the rear, it's not like there is a lot of space left. With 1,85 rims, you can fit a 3,50 tyre front and a 4,00 tyre on the rear, you get a nice fat finish (for a 350/400 at least). pice are in my topics
152
« on: June 24, 2017, 02:37:33 PM »
153
« on: June 17, 2017, 06:48:19 PM »
So, tried again today and bike started on 2 cylinders right away. No warm up required. Unplugged caps 1 and 4 and found that the new wemoto coil which was installed on the right side didn't function anymore.
I put the original coil back and bike runs fine on all 4 again.
Strange of the wemoto product.. hope they are reasonable with guarantee. Obviously i altered the coil to fit and trimmed the leads...
154
« on: June 16, 2017, 03:07:08 PM »
My multimeter has died a while ago and still needs replacing  The ngk plug caps read 5 kOhm on them. So i just tried the denso plugs, and the ngk d8ea. Why so fast after oneanother you wonder? Well, after running idle a while (warming up has always been fine), the engine now starts running on 2 (?) cylinders and dies. Restarting gives a rough 2 cilinder rumble. On further research, the coils (new ones from wemoto) feel totally different in temperature. One is just warm, the other hot, almost painful to touch... I have to say, the 2 wemoto coils are a slightly different version between eachother. Think something is up there? What's this about? 
155
« on: June 16, 2017, 12:18:38 PM »
Very interesting all this.
I'm having the same problem. Bike won't idle once engine is hot. Warm, it runs beautifully, but HOT.. the idle keeps slowing down and dying. I've tried airscrew settings 2,5 / 2 / 1,75 / 2,25. It's makes a small difference, but it will definately not idle for long.
Plug 'reads' rich with a carbon matt-black color.
If I understand correctly, either the plugs, or the caps should have resistance, right? So not both, and not neither.
I have recently replaced plugs (DR8ES?), caps (VD05F + XD05F), coils and points. Got 4 new NGK plugs on the shelve.
How do I recognize if my caps are with or without resistance, and how to recognize if the plug are with or without resistance (does the R in the type name give it away)?
thanks
156
« on: June 15, 2017, 08:59:56 PM »
157
« on: June 15, 2017, 08:57:42 PM »
158
« on: June 15, 2017, 01:44:19 PM »
Good to hear that you're getting some progress Erwin !
Does the idle speed increase before it dies and do you still have the air screws at 2.5 turns ? If it isn't increasing in speed before stalling, it could be overfuelling slightly, so you may want to try running it a little weaker via the air screw adjustment and see if it improves - do the plugs look wet immediately after it stalls ?
You'd expect to wind the air screws out to weaken it - more air = leaner mix, but I read an equally plausible description of the 400's Keihin idle circuit as posted by Hondaman on the US site that makes some sense and suggests winding the mixture screw out will actually richen the mixture as it's the air bleed that draws the fuel into the idle jet, and the greater flow or air would draw more fuel. Regardless of the theory, it's an easy experiment to do, so it would be worth trying an adjustment in small steps in either direction to see how the bike reacts. - and then let us know how you get on !
It's also worth thinking about plugs - have a look at Julie's recent 400 idle issues thread that appear to have been improved by a change in plugs.
Andy
Hi Andy thanks a lot for the feedback. I've been playing with the airscrews and first went from 2,5 to 2. Now I'm at 2,25 turn out, because I also thought I needed some more air to prevent the stalling. Also tried to give the carb some more idle by giving the base throttle position a bit more, but that only make the return to idle worse, and finally still the bike stalls. The idle certainly does not go up before it dies. It runs nicely around the 1200 rpm mark first and then slowly goes to 1000, 900 and below 800 rpm it won't run anymore obviously. My plugs remain black carbon (so seems rich). I have 4 new D8 plugs ready for install. I'm actually considering lowering the float level another 1 mm, because I feel the bike runs slightly rich all over the revs, but this has not bee scientifically proven. I'll look for the other thread, I remember replying in there too.
159
« on: June 15, 2017, 09:06:27 AM »
Last week I installed a new set of (aftermarket) coils, after I broke a lead, just after selling my spare coils. Ah well... The settings of my little 400 is juuuuuuuuust about perfect now.  I don't have any hick-ups while riding, and both constant speeds as full throttle I'm getting a healthy response and good sounds. Even the dreaded camchain noise has reduced significantly since I pushed the rod down according to known methods... The only thing is still the idle at warm / hot engine. Since I synced the carbs, she runs idle very well and sounds sweet but a few seconds in and she drops below 1000 rpm and ends up stalling, unless I blip the throttle again. In order to avoid endless carb setting tinkering, could this be related to another setting or a defective components? Points setting, ignition timing, condensors, advancer?
160
« on: May 27, 2017, 10:25:43 AM »
Thanks roy, and that is one spotless looking bike you have there I haven't had these carbs broken down to the level where the quadrant has been remounted, but maybe the previous owner has. I ran double cables with my 350, but ever since swapping a 400 (incl. carbs) in, i have never been able to fit the second cable, so it's certainly worth checking.
161
« on: May 27, 2017, 07:41:39 AM »
Hi Rob,
I've found some topics around the reasons for such 'push' cable. I'm already feeling better just leaving it off ;-)
Still wondering why i cannot get the second cable to fit though..
BR. Erwin
162
« on: May 26, 2017, 08:05:24 PM »
Hi everyone,
I have a cb350f with a cb400f engine (incl carbs).
I'm having trouble fitting the return throttle cable (that pulls the throttle shut somto say). I have 2 different ones laying in my garage, but they have the same dimensions. Too short by 1-2 cm...
Any clue on why this happens? Is there a 350-400 difference at play?
I'm also having problems understanding why such cable is needed. After all, the carb shuts close with a spring once the throttle cable is released...
Thanks for your advice.
163
« on: May 24, 2017, 01:59:40 PM »
If you only bench-synced the carbs, it's probably time to do an actual vacuum sync.
Weird idle definitely points to a poor synchronisation.
164
« on: May 21, 2017, 06:42:42 PM »
Changed the float level to 24mm now..... And we've got reliable idle! Also a nice coffee brown color on the plug. Still with a hot engine (seriously hot), it drowns on pick up from idle to any throttle. Will look into the air screws a bit see what that does. Out playing with a bigger sister today: 
165
« on: May 21, 2017, 06:38:41 PM »
Changed the float level to 24mm now..... And we've got reliable idle! Also a nice coffee brown color on the plug. Turns out i also had a broken coil lead on pot 2. Did a bush-fix with a small screw, will order new replacement coils with new leads as all are very rigid and old. Still with a hot engine (seriously hot), it drowns on pick up from idle to any throttle. Will look into the air screws a bit see what that does. With my friend's 500 four, out playing together:
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