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Messages - zombie365
1
« on: April 27, 2023, 01:13:44 PM »
Thanks for the info Dennis.
I'm going to be rebuilding my carbs tomorrow, currently they're stripped down ready to be ultrasonically cleaned.
I've ordered some #35 slow jets as per your recommendation.
I will build them back up with the following:
-Needle cir-clip 1 notch down from middle.
-35 slow
-85 main
I don't have AFR Meter, what would you recommend setting the mixture screw to?
Cheers,
Sam
2
« on: April 23, 2023, 06:14:32 PM »
Ayup Dennis
Thanks for sharing your settings , I'm going to be using them for my bike. I have K&N with Delkavik exhaust. Currently my build has standard jets 75 40 and notch is in middle , bike is bogging down with full throttle. Hopefully your settings will be good for me as well!
Just wanted to clarify that I've adjusted the needles correcty? See pictures below . Top is original, bottom is new needle with one notch down. Is that correct?
Thanks again bud !
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3
« on: August 08, 2022, 11:40:09 PM »
*Update* So tried the kickstart tonight and it's working perfectly! The only thing I can think I might have done is not put the kickstart hairpin into the slot when fitting the mechanism into the engine. Not 100% sure this was the cause but it's the only thing I can think that I might have done. All working now  Just got to figure a way to stop my clip ons from slipping on stanchions! But I have a different post for that  Cheers all
4
« on: August 08, 2022, 01:23:34 PM »
Alright guys, Thanks for the replys. So dropped the oil and took cover off last night. I carfully and lightly used a flat bladed screwdriver to seperate plates whilst dripping engine oil in between plates. After I put cover back on and filled up with oil again, I rocked backwards and forwards whilst in gear with clutch held in and the rear wheel now moves freely ! Seems like it was just sticky plates! I dared to start her in gear and clutch seems to be working as it should now, however there is a little clutch drag, I think it just needs running in as its been dry stood for so long. I also checked the kick starter mechanism and it all looks fine to me... however it just doesnt seem to want to bite if I move the kickstart slowly. Am I just not "kicking" fast engough for it to bite? Video: https://photos.app.goo.gl/5RRY3ikPwhp29te66I did check the ratchet mechinism and it moves freely. Cheers,
5
« on: August 07, 2022, 10:26:25 AM »
Hi All,
Just come to the end of my CB400F cafe racer build. I’m having trouble with the clutch.
The clutch is not disengaging. The bike starts perfectly fine when in neutral.
If I try and start engine whilst in gear whilst pressing clutch lever, the bike jumps forward as if the clutch isn’t pressed.
When bike is in gear with engine OFF, I rock the bike backwards and forward the back wheel is engaged with engine, there is no difference if clutch is pressed or not.
Kickstart will not engage either, it springs back into position, but it won’t engage properly to turn the engine over. Only tried kickstart when in neutral. Maybe this is related?
The engine has been stood dry for the past year whilst building the bike.
I did remove and refit the internal kickstart mechanism as it fell out when I took engine case off for refurb.
I have adjusted clutch cable so that it reaches max leverage on clutch arm, therefore clutch should definitely be disengaged.
Any things I can try before I start disassembling?
Any help would be appriciated!
Cheers,
Sam
6
« on: August 02, 2022, 03:17:15 PM »
Hi All, I have clip-ons on my 400/4 but they keep slipping forward/backward on the stanchions with a bit of force. Haven't rode the bike yet as I've only just come to the end of my build, however I think it'll be pretty dangerous banking into a corner... Any tips on getting these to stay firmly in place? I daren't tighten them up anymore as ill start stripping threads. Cheers
7
« on: December 27, 2021, 10:34:38 AM »
Electronic engineer here. I usually set my iron to around 420c.
8
« on: November 27, 2021, 06:03:17 PM »
Hi Al, Could you share what you did to get twin disk on front? did you modify standard spoked wheels? I also have twin disk on front but with with Melber alloys. My forks and calipers are Superdream. I would prefer to have spoked wheels but unsure what is needed to get them to fit with my twin disks!  Thanks
9
« on: August 27, 2021, 12:07:34 AM »
Hi JParty
Did you get the all balls kit in the end? If so what was the fitment like? I also purchased the qmp ssh750 from DSS, had the exact same problem as you. Looking at buying the all balls but really want to confirm it'll fit first.
Cheers
Sam
10
« on: April 06, 2021, 10:59:17 PM »
I ordered the Aliant YLP09x from DRBikes https://www.drbikes.co.uk/product/aliant-lithium-motorcycle-battery-ylp09x/ £82 posted, I'm in UK. I spoke to the guys at 4into1 but they were very vague on the output of the regulator and couldn't tell me if it was compatible with the Aliant YLP09x battery, shame really as the 4into1 reg/rec is half the price of the ricks reg/rec! The only info I could get out of them was that the max output of there reg/rec was 13.8v. I spoke to the guys at Aliant and they said the 4into1 reg/rec might not charge there battery very well. From reading the Haynes manual the 400/4 generator doesn't kick out much power when idle so battery could possibly die unless being used at higher revs. City riding wouldn't be any good. Aliant didn't recommend using 4into1 reg/rec with there batteries. As with any lithium based battery, if they get flat, they die for good. Looks like ill be biting the bullet and ordering the ricks rec/reg. Hopefully get a promo code from somewhere! Anyway , to try and keep the motogadget m.unit topic going I'm also looking at the ignition switch side to things... The original key has 3 electrical positions, OFF, ON and P . I assume the P stands for parking or power. I believe this is for if you stop at the side of the road at night you can still have some lights on. I wont be using the original ignition lock but I still need to know if I'll come across any problems with using a simple 2 wire ignition switch/key. The motogadget m.unit manual says that a parking light can be activated by turning the ignition off when high beam is active. There are 3/4 wire ignition switches on ebay but cant see any reason why I would need another key position apart from ON or OFF with the M.unit.... or am I missing something?
11
« on: April 03, 2021, 01:35:26 PM »
@Laverdaroo
I've just ordered the Aliant YLP09x
It's 8aH pretty much same dimensions as antigravity and half the price!
Sam
12
« on: March 22, 2021, 08:52:02 PM »
Oil pressure: You need an idiot light, it doesn't monitor oil pressure in the M unit, but you do run power to the light from Aux 1 or 2.
Speed sensor: Correct, This is just so the M unit can track your rides/service intervals. You split the signal wire from the sensor to the Gauges and to the input on the M unit.
Reg/Rec: As Brian says, you can't use the original reg rec units (edit: with a lithium battery). You should also not use a cheap eaby unit. I bought the Ricks reg/rec, expensive, but they are tried and tested.
This is the best diagram I have found, It's also editable in illustrator. https://technicalarticles.revivalcycles.com/hc/en-us/articles/360009106131-m-Unit-Blue-Basic-Universal-Wiring-Diagram
side note: The M Button will not work unless installed inside steel bars, so if you are going aluminium clip-ons, don't buy one.
Thanks for your advice eight0, :-) Good tip on the rectifier, I'm doing a bit of research on it now. I've seen that some people are using the reg/rec sold by 4into1 as well, it is also half the price of the ricks one... https://4into1.com/regulator-rectifier-lithium-lead-acid-honda-cb350f-cb400f-cb500-cb550-cb750/https://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/Rectifier-Regulator-Lithium-Compatible-14_100Has anybody used the 4into1 reg/rec? any problems with using lithium battery? also, I'm not set on using an AG battery, I'm looking at some different brands as well. any suggestions welcome! :-) Cheers
13
« on: March 22, 2021, 01:28:38 PM »
I know I’m a bit cheeky but I’ve to wire the same system bar the clocks to the Long Haired General’s bike next month, if I get the frame and engine back from the ‘coaters’.
Would you mind me jumping on here and firing in some questions as and when? I love the simplicity of the m unit, realise it’s quite expensive but really fancy the challenge. Hope it goes ok for you and I look forward to hearing how you get on👍👍👍
yeah go ahead buddy, I was hoping for people to ask there questions, as it might give me an inkling of upcoming problems!
15
« on: March 21, 2021, 09:58:51 PM »
Hi all, So currently planning my rebuild of the 400/4 I've scrapped the wiring loom and gone for the Motogadget m.unit blue. Bike is going to be café racer style, hopefully not upset the purists to much!  https://motogadget.com/shop/en/m-unit-blue.htmlI'm after any tips or tricks when wiring this thing up and thought it would be useful to set up a dedicated thread, to help anybody else (and me) doing a similar thing to there 400/4. I design electronics for a living so not unfamiliar with this sort of stuff... although I've never done any major motorcycle wiring! I am literally at the start, so to begin here's there "simplified" wiring diagram from moto gadget: [ Guests cannot view attachments ] Does anybody have a more defined wiring diagram for m.unit and 400f ? I'm looking to use the original regulator/rectifier and an antigravity (or something similar) battery. Any input greatly appreciated! Thanks
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