Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => CB750 => Topic started by: El__burro on March 25, 2015, 03:36:41 PM
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I am trying to figure out what way do the front fender go.
Please have a look at the picture to see if I am making a mess.
The other thing is the rear shocks.
I am having big problems with the nut to hold them in place. I have tried 17cm bolts but they are too small, the next size up is too lose. Any idea?
Thanks
El__burro
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/25/870c054c5517401e2cfb44d4506f3085.jpg)
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I am trying to figure out what way do the front fender go.
Please have a look at the picture to see if I am making a mess.
The other thing is the rear shocks.
I am having big problems with the nut to hold them in place. I have tried 17cm bolts but they are too small, the next size up is too lose. Any idea?
Thanks
El__burro
Honda use alot of M10 fine threads, rear shock lower bolts with standard unit are M10 fine and top fixing nuts are usually M10 fine.
Standard M10 thread is too coarse, useful to buy a thread pitch gauge to check what you are dealing with.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/METRIC-SCREW-PITCH-THREAD-PITCH-GAUGE-/331126021522?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4d18a61d92
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There should be another stay on the mudguard.
As Martin says, the rear shock nuts are M10 X 1, which is metric fine thread, as opposed to the usual M10 X 1.5
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Ref your comments Mike... I (think I agree) and yet when I bought my K2 it'd been fitted with a similar mudguard to El burro's. The odd thing was that the included fork brace was correct for my early K2 forks.... implying some (where in the world?) CB750s had these fenders?
Anyways all burro.... hope these pics of use.
Simon
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I THINK the single stay guards were fitted in the US? they also have a shorter front portion ( Perhaps why the other stay wasn't fitted? ) British weather requires something more substantial! ;D
El Burros shows a more symetric shape and I think I can see hints of a hole and staining where the missing stay was fitted? Hence my vote is also a missing stay and on backwards.
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Yes, it's missing a stay, the rear one.
Since then I have tried to fit the callipers, i am quite sure it mounts 2 disks and therefore 2 callipers. Is there a way to tell the difference between the right from the left?
Also how do I connect both callipers to the master cylinder?
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The calipers are identical as the bikes never originaly had two calipers, you can connect in one of two ways
(1) use a longer twin banjo bolt with proper copper washers in all the joints
(2) remove the brake light switch and use a single banjo with washers there------If you want a brake light switch use a GL1000 master cylinder(I find this a better idea anyway as it moves more fluid) and connect to the brake light switch on the master
If it has never had twin discs you also need a different speedo drive plate. if you send me an email direct I did a word document years ago on fitting twin discs to a 500
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The calipers are identical as the bikes never originaly had two calipers, you can connect in one of two ways
(1) use a longer twin banjo bolt with proper copper washers in all the joints
(2) remove the brake light switch and use a single banjo with washers there------If you want a brake light switch use a GL1000 master cylinder(I find this a better idea anyway as it moves more fluid) and connect to the brake light switch on the master
If it has never had twin discs you also need a different speedo drive plate. if you send me an email direct I did a word document years ago on fitting twin discs to a 500
I'm quite confused, I have 2 disks, 2 callipers and a splitter, yet you say that the bike never had 2 callipers?
Thanks
El__Burro
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Thanks, please can anyone help me to understand the differences between the two brackets in the photo (one in e red, the other in blue)
Thanks
El__Burro
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The red one is for the early bikes the blue one is for later bikes
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Thanks Ash,
I have one of each can i mount them?
Are the callipers the same though? (I also have a matching pair of brackets).
Thanks
El__burro
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Thanks Ash,
I have one of each can i mount them?
Are the callipers the same though? (I also have a matching pair of brackets).
Thanks
El__burro
El Burro, you need to use identical arms I would think, see the link below, its quite a good guide, you need to take your time and don't take any metal off anything unless you are sure of your measurements, I had to take a couple of mil off the offside lower mount (on the leg that is getting the new disc), get some shimming washers for the upper mounts so that you can make fine adjustments, I found it very straightforward (but I was apprentice trained many moons ago!), also take care with the threads in the sliders, the alloy is very soft and may be corroded as well, don't over tighten anything, the callipers are the same but you need a different master cylinder, the piston in the standard CB750 master cylinder is too small in diameter, David Silvers sells one for the early Gold Wing which is ideal (although I ended up using a Fireblade unit because it fits under the fairing better having a remote reservoir), I rode the bike on my driveway recently, only at 10mph, gave the front brake a hefty tug because I'd heard that the brakes are still rubbish even with twin discs, I nearly went over the bloody handlebars!!!, what they will be like at higher speeds I have yet to find out, good luck with your conversion, cheers Mark.
http://www.salocal.com/sohc/tech/dual_disks/dual_disks.htm
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Would this line splitter fit my k2 without much work.
I am trying to find a good setting for a dual disk system.
Thanks
El__burro(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/07/747b0c89a07feea24d307f39c0dc9cb3.jpg)
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Looks like it would fit but no provision for brake light switch, also the is only one mounting bolt on a K2 so you may need to fabricate an adaptor bracket
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Thanks, i have the light switch on the lever itself.
Size wise are we ok?
El__Burro
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Honda use alot of M10 fine threads, rear shock lower bolts with standard unit are M10 fine and top fixing nuts are usually M10
i need to fit the top bolts for the rear shocks, but the M10 fine are way too small.
either the seller has sent me the wrong item (the bolt external diameter is (http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/04/85b0975832dc261ea7fcb287b23b9ea9.jpg)12.89mm) or Martin meant M12.
Which one is it?
thanks
el__burro
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wrong size bolt sent by the seller. it looks like it was a m8 bolt.
el__burro
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what are the differences between cb750 and cb500/550 speedo drive plate.
i need to purchase the second type for a dual disk upgrade but probably i already have one somewhere.
can anyone help with some pictures.
thanks
el__burro
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IT IS A MYTH THAT THE %)) ONE WORKS-----IT DOESN'T
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IT IS A MYTH THAT THE %)) ONE WORKS-----IT DOESN'T
500?
Doesn't work, what about the 550, %%)
They look identical.
Thanks
El__burro
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The 750, 550 and 500 are all exactly the same and do not work with twin discs
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are we talking about part number 9 in the picture below?
thanks
el__burro
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/15/6398a5602c4ce6651be72abf027d1c96.jpg)
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yes
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Hi Mark,
This link to the dual disk conversion isn't valid anymore, is there another way to get the info for the conversion? Thanks!
Charlie
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These instructions are for a Honda CB 500 or 550 four, they will work for 750 K3 onwards if you get 750 parts where 500/550 are mentioned and earlier ones if fitted with the later fork slider assemblies
Hi easiest way is to collect the following bits:
(1) Goldwing (GL 1000 or 1100) or other Honda twin disc master cylinder complete
(2) 500/550 disc SH
(3) 500/550 caliper with mounting brkt and lower hose c/w banjo bolt and washers
(4) Speedo drive 44641-300-000 (now obsolete but Western hills Honda Cincinnati did have a couple in stock--DO NOT accept the modified number it wont work, there is a photo of the required plate on page two from which you should see how to modify the drive you have)
(5) Two new seals for caliper, part number 45108-300-003, and preferably two new sets disc pads
(6) Six 8 x 110 HT bolts with nylock nuts.
Strip out, clean (especially the seal grooves) and rebuild both calipers with new seals, remove front brake light switch from block bolted to bottom yoke (lower triple tree?) and connect the second lower hose to the hole uncovered (same thread on banjo bolt), Replace master cylinder with twin disc type (if you got a "late model" there will be a brake light switch operated by lever blade. If so, connect this to wires from removed switch--if not rely on rear brake light switch).
On front wheel remove front wheel spindle and Speedo drive gearbox, remove and discard six disc rotor holding bolts, chrome cover and Speedo drive plate.
Fit New? Disc with longer bolts and nyloc nuts. Fit replacement Speedo drive plate.
(This may necessitate cutting part of the aluminium disc center out to form two rectangular slots). Refit the Speedo drive gearbox and wheel spindle.
Bolt wheel into forks and bleed brakes. You now have twin discs using all standard parts if it still wont slow down enough you are driving too fast.
If you want the picture that goes with this you will have to PM me with your email address but you won't get an answer till after 19th as i am away from now
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Thanks, Bryan!
Charlie