Honda-SOHC

Might be that the assembly is imbalanced somehow... Tolerances, etcetc.
That may give rise to another vibration and so more clatter.
 
Maybe re assemble the plates by turning them all 180 degrees in the basket?

Piki

PM sent earlier but dont think it is working?

Just wondered if No3 header was free of dents and not too badly corroded.
I have got a No1 now, luckily.

I  am in UK but do get to Spain now and then.

Cheers

Simon

Silver as far as I remember.
I was going to do the same thing to a replica seat but need to make a mask with the correct font and size. Not sure what paint adheres to vinyl though.

Probably a long shot.... But I am after a pair of these for re-chroming.

The pattern ones I have are not a good match and don't assemble well either.

Thought I would ask anyway, the ebay examples are mostly in the US.

Then there is that set of damper/cush rubbers inside the clutch basket but they are not serviceable (and not available) as the basket is riveted to its gear of course.
These segments of rubber will be as pliable as hard plastic now and zero damping - another source of noise and chatter further along the drivetrain.
New clutch basket if there is too much play but opinions vary. If the rivets are tight I think it's OK.
Heard somewhere on the web that a few Kawasaki enthusiasts have had sets moulded for their Z650s clutch baskets.

If I could find a place to rivet the gear to the basket it  would only need a way of making the dampers !
 


 

Interesting..... been reading everything I can find about mysteries of 400/4 carbs ...here and elsewhere !!

Listened to that engine knock... heard that before !

My completely rebuilt engine (and carbs etc) does a similar-ish thing from cold.

After learning that the ethanol in petrol is a problem for our carbs and seals, I try to remember to run the bowls empty after a run. But if I don't....!!
...then after a day or two without running it will start only after lots of cranking, but No2 will not fire. Always No2 !!

I usually have to drain a bit of fuel from that bowl and then after a couple more attempts it starts on choke after a bit of coaxing. Bowl isn't full??
After a brief warm up it will  idle at 1200 rpm but only with the air screws set just one and a quarter turns out. Any more and it knocks and the idle speed drops could this be related to the float levels which I adjusted to stop the plugs sooting up.

On the road the engine now pulls well , especially above 5K if asked,  so the fuel supply is good. Only done 900 miles since the complete rebuild and it's been a tale of shortish rides and carbs-off for work.
Exhaust is standard OE (apart from the two pattern headers DSS supplied) as is the airbox etc.
I think the exhaust note is louder than I remember with my 1978 F"2" (yellow .. reg WGM508T) -  but that may be a symptom of this particular engine's state of tune - or just my memory of how quiet and civilised they were?.

Work on the carburettors....
Stripped for re-plating and inspection.
Were u-sonically cleaned individually (I bought a small cleaner from Maplin) and lots of compressed air to clear.  Fitted NOS floats, new OE needles, needle jets (tube), all new O rings. The floats were set using the clear tube+modified drain plug method (about 23/34mm after many attempts) so fuel all four levels equal and 7mm below joint faces.
Engine wise..
Tappets set to .002", ignition (Dyna-S) also spot on at idle and full advance.
Cam chain tension also OK. Camshaft measured OK when rebuilt.
Re-bored to 1st oversize, new rings, pistons. Re-shelled the mains and big-ends too.

Balanced the carbs to within half a cm Hg according to my old Davida vac gauges.
Each time the carbs have been off (half a dozen?, lost count) the bowls are spotless with no signs of deposits, gunk etc.
No longer overflow either-  I junked the Keyster kit items and re-fitted the original float valves after a through clean up and polish.
My thoughts are that maybe some excess air is getting in - could those felt seals be critical or some other item worn or corroded.
The bodies are apparently very sound and all the passages seem clear. I did read that new pilot jets sorted out idling problems on a  500 four, but mine look fine to me.

Nostalgia..
I got 400/4 fettling "experience" from working on my 1978 bike and clocked up 30,000 miles in all from new.
But the most I ever did or needed to do to the carbs was fit new main jets to suit a Yoshimura 4 into 1 (what a noise) and the bike never missed a beat... unless it rained or the points needed setting. Finally had to fit new tensioner blades and a head gasket to stop the infamous oil weep and chain rattle.