This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Messages - Clem2112
Pages: 1 2 3 [4] 5 6 ... 19
46
« on: January 04, 2018, 08:11:58 PM »
Wide cable ties can be used to hold the new rings in their grooves if ring compressors are not available... a bit fiddly and probably 2 ties are needed per piston.
Plenty of oil in the bores ( there may be something better out there that sticks to the cylinder walls for longer?). String and blocks to support the barrels helped too !
Worked for me and I was a newbie to the task having only ever fitted a new piston to a 2 stroke scooter !
47
« on: January 04, 2018, 02:05:23 PM »
My original 1978 F2 developed the cam chain rattle after a few thousand miles and only getting regular oil and filter changes, albeit every 1000 miles. The tensionor rod or arm was probably partially locked by the time I attempted to adjust it and the warranty had expired.
After that it was tensioned whenever it began to rattle , at idle , by gently applying pressure to the rod as recommended by the Honda mechanic ! .... and was the only non- invasive way to tension the blade. A slight tinkling/rattle when the engine was cold was deemed normal so long as it quitened once warmed up.
By 30,000 hard miles the head gasket started to leak slightly from the LHS, not harmful (Honda mechanic said) but annoying. So the head came off for a new gasket and while it was apart the tensioner blade got replaced (about £10 even then), the original had light but significant wear grooves. A few more thousand miles of hard use and the engine stayed quiet between the occasional "adjustments". So those DID chains are pretty tough.
48
« on: December 22, 2017, 09:31:42 AM »
About the cam journal nachining....
Think Bryan has it. Honda had to have a dedicated setup to do the quantities they produced.
A fast, cheap method using a sized cutter makes sense.
The anoraks among us would like to see some period footage showing the machining of Honda engine castings.
49
« on: December 21, 2017, 06:20:41 PM »
I have been curious as to how Honda machined the head and cover journals... for 40 yrs !
Nobody seems to know for sure but there are places that can do it in the UK , I hear from other restorers.
The only way I can see that could feasibly achieve the fine finish and tolerance would be a single point cutter but the setup would be very slender. Unless they used a ball end mill and profiled each in turn?
50
« on: December 20, 2017, 10:22:16 AM »
Welding would be risky but machining the journal back to the right diameter in the cirrcet position would be a specialist job. Still don't know how Honda managed to cut those.
51
« on: December 16, 2017, 05:47:32 PM »
Usually find the need to remove old fork seals etc by employing the two woodscrew and pull method..... assisted by added heat from warming the legs with hot water. So the closed side of these is uppermost....usually has the makers name and part number on this side too !
The stiction could have been from these being assembled the wrong way up?
Many like to polish the aalyy bits...I gave the fork legs the "original" brushed finish using emery to remove the corrosion and dinks then different grades of scotchbrite to get the finish.... then a coat or three of clear lacquer to protect them.
52
« on: December 12, 2017, 08:29:37 PM »
Pretty sure the "whine" is typical of straight cut gears , not sure if there are any in the driveline apart from the primary chain gear on the crank and the intermediate shaft.
Back in the day when these bikes were popular, my mate's f1 was very whiney in 1st but had a very sweet engine that revved well past 10,000.
My only evidence for what is the likely cause of the noise :-
Mini Coopers had straight cut gears in the box and were very whiney / noisy.
Later Hondas had hy-vo cam chains that whined at high revs, my NC31 (400 Super Four) being one.
Gear-driven camshaft bikes like the CB-1 400 also made odd noises.
53
« on: December 11, 2017, 09:03:29 PM »
These metal based DSS seats are pretty close to the original... maybe the rear is taller than I remember compared to the seat on my original F2. I have two plastic based ones, one from DSS ... neither fits as well.
Also got a stencil from Piki.... from Spain ?....I used a leather/vinyl silver spray paint that Timpsons sell !
54
« on: October 18, 2017, 01:41:14 PM »
Any 10w/40 mineral oil.
Euro car parts sell it.
55
« on: August 26, 2017, 10:24:54 PM »
They all do that sir....
The basket looks in good condition with almost no ridges in the slots.
Most bikes will have some slack between the gear and the basket, and mine certainly has a little even after rebuilding with new dampers (with some blue substitute elastomer material).
If the carbs are balanced properly , the knock is usually minimal and just at idle if at all.
56
« on: June 27, 2017, 02:15:28 PM »
Would serve as the basis of a project maybe....
for about £1500 though !
57
« on: June 22, 2017, 11:00:26 AM »
Surely the rubber inlets design means they seal well enough without needing any packing adhesive?
The airbox rubbers do tend to turn a bit when the carbs are pushed past so maybe it prevents that happening.
58
« on: June 21, 2017, 06:13:38 PM »
Between carbs and inlet manifold?
Maybe something to help with assembly that doesn't come off easily?
59
« on: May 31, 2017, 12:01:45 AM »
Honda might respond better to Hai Karate 
60
« on: May 25, 2017, 01:00:07 PM »
On the compression readings....
I use the tester without the flexi hose and just have the solid tube with the tapered bung as a seal.
So there is additional volume in the spark plug hole (c. 2cc ?) which should reduce the readings to about 150 by my rough calcs.
Pages: 1 2 3 [4] 5 6 ... 19
|
Show Posts