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Messages - Clem2112
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61
« on: May 25, 2017, 12:49:48 PM »
I tend to stay well back from everything that's in front of me.  The disc may benefit from a light cut to help the pads bed in though.
62
« on: May 25, 2017, 08:19:51 AM »
That's the plan now ! It's been a slow process getting the engine running well enough for long enough ! Good sparks and carb setup now.  New rubber ready to go on. Front brake is still poor but MoT'd ok !
63
« on: May 25, 2017, 12:21:20 AM »
Yes, afterwards I read that others suggested a thinner oil to do the test !
As you say, only enough oil to cover the top ring is needed .... maybe a couple of drops ?
Those pistons are quite small !
Peering into each plug hole, I could see that the honing marks are still clearly visible, which makes me wonder if the bores and rings have fully "bedded" even though the rebuilt engine has done several hundred miles .
64
« on: May 24, 2017, 09:42:37 PM »
Think Kevski is referring to internal leaks ie blow-by gases ?
65
« on: May 24, 2017, 09:39:19 PM »
I was trying to understand if lower compression on cyls 2 and 3 was down to valves or rings.
Measured cold and dry, 150 psi on 2 and 3 v 170 on the outer two.
When hot they all seem to measure around 150.
The other day I did a wet pressure test but was unsure how much (little) oil to add.
Ended up adding 2.5 cc of 10w40 using a syringe. Let it "soak" in for a few minutes then checked the readings again.
Bit of a shock when the readings were all up around 200 psi or more !
But this wasn't due to the improved ring sealing that the oil provided?.. instead I think this was down to the reduced volume in the combustion chamber.
My rough calculation suggests the chamber volume is about 12 cc but the added oil dropped this small volume by about 20% and this raised compression to maybe 12:1 or 13 :1.
So I would think maybe only 1cc or less is needed to be safe !
Even then the volume change is still going to affect the readings.
The oil was extracted from each cylinder using some rubber tubing and a vacuum cleaner.
10 minutes with the engine running before the air was clear.
66
« on: May 24, 2017, 09:02:20 PM »
Drilled it. Stainless washer fettled to fit the pivot and retained with a split pin.
I defy it to fail again !
67
« on: May 24, 2017, 08:59:17 PM »
Or use one or two narrow cable ties!
68
« on: May 24, 2017, 08:55:20 PM »
Air getting down the inlet valve guides sounds possible especially when hot.
Extra hot and slightly oily? air is also pulled in from the crankcase via the air box.
This must vary according to what volume is getting past the rings.
Might be worth checking the drain tube and the manifold vent tube underneath, the handbook says that one of these needs a squeeze periodically !
69
« on: May 24, 2017, 02:55:08 PM »
I can get my carbs to within 1cm Hg but no better..... minimal knock after air screw adjustments.
Still think the rings and bores are bedding down after 1000 miles.
Max arse tolerance on the wooden 400f seat was an hour when I was young and supple !
70
« on: May 23, 2017, 11:47:31 AM »
Have you checked the central fuel inlet T-pipe and the two plastic feed tubes to see if the O rings are ok?
71
« on: May 22, 2017, 10:28:54 PM »
Just a thought... I had this once on another bike.
Is there enough free play in the throttle/cables ?
72
« on: May 22, 2017, 10:00:50 AM »
On the float bowl seal issue.
The ones I have used also swell up and grow 5mm in length but have not degraded visibly.
A few hours to dry out and they shrink and fit the groove again.
I must have fitted the same set many times and they have never leaked.
The fuel level (21 mm float height) is supposed to be a few mm below the joint face but the petrol will still wet the seal in normal use, banking over, accelleration or just through evaporation etc.
73
« on: May 22, 2017, 09:48:45 AM »
I guess a washer and split pin or R clip would be option 2.
First find a sharp 1.5 mm drill
74
« on: May 20, 2017, 11:44:53 PM »
That idea crossed my mind too , after a beer !
It would be a really tricky job to re plunge cut the groove on a lathe after all.
Cheers.
75
« on: May 20, 2017, 07:14:50 PM »
For the second time since the bike's rebuild the circlip parted company with the shaft today.
Just made it down a slip road in second luckily.
I may have used a non standard circlip burpt it looks like the groove in the shaft is a bit shallow?
Anyone here come up with a better way to retain the lever in this setup?
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