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Messages - Laverda Dave
1
« on: May 28, 2024, 08:11:27 PM »
There is a wire circlip you need to winkle out with a fine pick.
Wow, I didn't know that Ash  . Well done. Is the bit that suffers the wear the ball or the socket (sounds like a hip joint!)?
2
« on: May 28, 2024, 08:09:40 PM »
I have tried a couple of times in the past to get the joint apart but failed! In the end I took the complete gear lever for chroming but as I knew the plater I asked him to do his best to avoid damaging the joint and to his credit it came back all ok. I don’t know anyone who has managed to separate the joint to reassemble it.
The actual joint is a weak spot on the 400/4 suffering with high wear and becoming sloppy.
I think Ken (Oddjob) on here did try to make a conversion using a rose joint arrangement, I don't know if he completed it. You may find something relating to it if you try a search on the 400 and 500 pages although when he left Ken deleted a lot of his posts unfortunately.
4
« on: May 28, 2024, 02:34:35 PM »
I think you are right Matt. I went onto the GSPC website and typed in my NGK plug code and that was the answer I got for the ND plugs I need. I have just gone onto the Spark Plug Ltd site and it is showing the same plug as you state, something strange going on!
I have now placed the order with the Spark Plug Ltd and given up with the Green Spark Plug Company after waiting nearly FIVE weeks for my order. I have contacted them twice to chase up the order and didn't even receive a response the second time. Terrible customer service so have asked for my money back and left them an appropriate review to reflect my frustration in dealing with them. How can a company show items as being in stock with a two day delivery at the point of order when clearly they don't have stock and are waiting on a delivery from the manufacturer! If they didn't have the stock they should have offered an alternative plug from another manufacturer instead of the radio silence!
5
« on: May 27, 2024, 09:42:11 PM »
£7,500 and only three photos!
6
« on: May 27, 2024, 05:20:24 PM »
According to the Denso site the plugs you need are Denso-X22ES-U 4. I ordered a set from the Green Spark Plug Company on 24th April and I'm still waiting for them! I have chased them up twice now, the first time the response was they are waiting for Denso to send one plug to complete the order and second time I received no reply at all. Pretty shoddy service really and I wouldn't recommend them.
7
« on: May 26, 2024, 08:21:52 PM »
Is that instant gasket on the rocker cover? There appears to be a lot of gasket debris on the edges of the mating surfaces and into the threads. You didn't use liquid gasket on the crankcase to barrel joints did you because that can be squeezed into the oilways and block them and that could well be your problem. Likewise if loose instant gasket debris floats around in the sump it can be picked up by the oil pump and sent up the oilways and create a blockage at the restrictor jets.
8
« on: May 26, 2024, 08:11:46 PM »
A stupid question but is the roller bearing damaged and worn? The gearbox on Ratty had over 45k on it (probably over 50k as the PO had fitted a mini Speedo on the bike at some point). When I checked the roller bearings they were fine, no play, no nasty rumbling and no tight spots. The rest of the engine was in a terrible condition as a result of the PO blasting it with a sand gun. The roller bearing was good to go again but unfortunately the shaft was worn beyond repair and I purchased the two gear shafts from Ted. I have no idea how many miles were on that gearbox but again the roller bearings were absolutely fine.
9
« on: May 26, 2024, 05:15:24 PM »
I would be tempted to get some local heat onto the spacer (not the shaft itself) followed by some gentle taps with a suitable thin and flat wooden wedge GENTLY inserted between the spacer and the bearing going slowly all the way round, these things usually let go with heat and gentle persuasion. If the wooden wedge doesn’t work get that old flat blade screwdriver out that you use to stir paint with! Good Luck.
10
« on: May 26, 2024, 05:06:48 PM »
I've just noticed the oil seal is not on the end of the camshaft, did it fall off when you took the rocker cover off?
11
« on: May 26, 2024, 05:04:24 PM »
I would expect to see a bit more oil in the oil bath below the cams if the engine has been running for 3-4 minutes. Did the top end sound rattly when first started and did it quieten down after the oil began to circulate or did it sound the same? I am not really experienced with these engines but if one side of the head has more oil than the other I would be concerned the oil jet on one side is restricted and not delivering the correct amount of oil to that side.
The cam chain is picking up oil from the bottom of the engine as it goes around the crankshaft sprocket and it could be splashing oil at the top end as it comes back up to the camshaft. The oil filter is also in the bottom end where oil pressure is likely to be unrestricted.
It will be very messy but I’d be tempted to run the engine on the starter motor in short bursts with the rocker cover (and fuel tank) taken off and see if the oil is reaching the top end.
12
« on: May 26, 2024, 02:54:12 PM »
But of course he's going to be buying the whole assembly from you Ash so he doesn't need to remove them 
13
« on: May 26, 2024, 02:52:51 PM »
And are those retainers with felt between them and the housing? If they are they look really difficult to remove as they appear to be staked!
14
« on: May 26, 2024, 12:48:20 PM »
The retainer for the felt washers go on the carb bodies though, nothing to do with the carb rail spindle (assuming it is a similar arrangement to the 400/4).
15
« on: May 26, 2024, 12:46:32 PM »
Pretty sure they are.
Ted had an issue with his breaking up during his carb rebuild and posted photos of them. They become damaged when removing the locating dowl by drilling it out and puncturing right through the bush cracking it or when drilling the carb rail to insert a crub screw to hold the lifter rod in position to replace the dowl pin.
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