Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => Project Board => Topic started by: Trigger on October 19, 2019, 08:59:42 PM
-
Hi, I am new to the project board and have built too many bikes but, never put a build tread up :o
I have a agreement with the lady of the house that, we can not buy anymore bikes but, no mention of building any ;)
I always read about how much these bikes cost to build and I know from first hand experience that they are not getting cheaper so, I have set myself a challenge to build one for less than £1000. Not sure if this is possible but, we will try.
Have got hold of a 500 four frame and have been donated a 550 engine, 500 hubs, 550 forks, 550 carbs, 550F1 tank ( thank you to all the members that have donated) and will be using parts from my stash that will need refurbing.
I will not be using any CAD or special tech stuff, it will be a tape measure, Vernier and cutting out bits of carboard to make templates.
I will not be using pods, clip on bars or any hi-tech electrics.
I have stripped down the engine that was donated by a member who got it off another member and had been fully rebuilt using youtube vids :o. The engine had about £500 of new parts fitted but, the builder had used silicone which had blocked the oil ways and destroyed the crank. But, a few £££ goodies can be reused like, the primary chain.
Today i started chopping the frame and putting a hoop on and trying a few parts out.
[attachimg=1]
-
I had to read this post three times before I accepted it was you Graham.
Could be an interesting build as mine is a propper half assed restoration and cost way way over that.
-
Just to clarify about us not buying any more bikes. This is a joint decision and not me putting my foot down, which for anyone that knows Graham will know that he would take no notice of me anyway 🙄🙄🙄 and if I saw a bike I really, really wanted, I would buy it. We have so many bikes between us, of which over 95% are Honda SOHC/4's and we are not getting any younger, so its all about enjoying the ones we have for as long as we can whilst bearing in mind that eventually we will start selling some off. I sold 2 last year (and then Graham bought another one 🙄🙄🙄) so it will be a slow process getting down to just 2 or 3 bikes each, one of which will be the bike he builds in this thread.
-
You know as well as I know you will be left with the CD250U's ;D
-
You know as well as I know you will be left with the CD250U's ;D
Yes young Mick, you are totally correct, they will defo be 2 of the last bikes to go 😀😀😀
-
Ive seen your drive, it needs more than 2 and im talking each!!!
-
Nice project and tough target, keen to see this one progress :)
-
What happens to the finished bike Trig. Is it a charity build to be auctioned off. That would be a great project for us all to get behind. Just a thought.
-
Less than a grand ...OK.... pinch of salt, as not all of us have freebies, parts stashes and the like .... but... as a guy with none of those things trying to renovate an old dinosaur with minimal spare cash...I have got my eyes glued to this one.
I hope to get some guides on what sort of old corroded tat can be brought back to life, what needs binning, and what can be done to reuse rather than just replace. Not corner cutting...coz I don;t see Trigger as the corner cutting type. But some solid tips and ideas :)
I am kind of hoping when mine is done that it will retain a bit of it's patina or character, and that's important to me. But my 3K budget is starting to look genrous ;)
-
What happens to the finished bike Trig. Is it a charity build to be auctioned off. That would be a great project for us all to get behind. Just a thought.
-
What happens to the finished bike Trig. Is it a charity build to be auctioned off. That would be a great project for us all to get behind. Just a thought.
I thought that as well James ;)
-
I have some braided brake lines Trig .99P ;D ;D
-
This looks fascinating, will be following this one
Cheers
Dennis
-
Charity ! Yep, Triggers charity ;)
This will be a retirement bike for myself and will be the last bike I build.
OK, hoop is welded on. Did a repair to the rear foot rest hanger. Made a seat pan. And have been offered a couple of ignition switch brackets but, decided to make my own.
Little bit of first and second cut on the fork lowers and brake plate. I hate polishing >:(
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=3]
[attachimg=4]
-
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
[attachimg=4]
[attachimg=5]
-
Going twin disc with 550 lowers?
-
Going twin disc with 550 lowers?
Will be keeping my options open and will be using 341 forks from a 550K1. Have started a twin disc conversion before but, never completed it so, have a few disc's and calipers to use.
-
Less than a grand ...OK.... pinch of salt, as not all of us have freebies, parts stashes and the like .... but... as a guy with none of those things trying to renovate an old dinosaur with minimal spare cash...I have got my eyes glued to this one.
I hope to get some guides on what sort of old corroded tat can be brought back to life, what needs binning, and what can be done to reuse rather than just replace. Not corner cutting...coz I don;t see Trigger as the corner cutting type. But some solid tips and ideas :)
I am kind of hoping when mine is done that it will retain a bit of it's patina or character, and that's important to me. But my 3K budget is starting to look genrous ;)
Most of the parts that are using, came to me as scrap. The frame had sat outside for many years and had to be blasted first to assess if it could be used. It had a few holes and a few very thin nearly rusted through metal but, a few hours of fabrication made it safe to use.
-
gawd...what happened to those fork lowers!
-
gawd...what happened to those fork lowers!
Its called, being painted black and left in the English weather for that corroded look ;)
-
I can find you an original speedo drive plate to copy if you do go twin mate( Very early 750 original that is)
-
I can find you an original speedo drive plate to copy if you do go twin mate( Very early 750 original that is)
Cheers for the offer Bryan, I think I may have a couple but, will find them when I am looking for something totally different ;)
-
It was Friday yesterday so, it was polishing day, got the 3rd and 4th stage done. Also it was parts ordering day and the grand budget was hit hard :'(
2 x side panels £70
2 x wheel rims £220
Master cylinder £30
Rear stop lights £7
Had already bought,
Sub loom £5 ( cheers Bryan)
Clock bracket £10 fleabay
Total £342
All the steel for repair to the frame, making a number plate bracket, seat pan came from off cuts at a tractor trailer repair shop for free.
-
Keep it up mate! Comming to see the Pantons fireworks on Saturday plus 6 merlins at night, anything desperate i may have?
Bryan
PS started mine, fond the pink grinding wheel on a dremel set is exactly the right size for removing the powder coat fron inside rear brake pivot!!
-
Keep it up mate! Comming to see the Pantons fireworks on Saturday plus 6 merlins at night, anything desperate i may have?
Bryan
PS started mine, fond the pink grinding wheel on a dremel set is exactly the right size for removing the powder coat fron inside rear brake pivot!!
You seem to spend more time in Lincolnshire that I do :o
Give me a shout when you are within stones throw and we will meet up for a beer or a cuppa ;)
-
Turned some ropy switch's in to something that will work.
I am building this bike arse about face as, I usually do the frame and engine first. One of the reasons is I missed my slot at the painters for black. They blast and paint land dredging machines as there main business, a bike frame is just a speck of dust compared to machines parts they do. I will have to wait until black is on the menu :'( The bonus is I have done a deal with the company owner that I will do 2 hours blasting for him and he will paint my frame and all metal bits.
-
Trying to get my head around on how to do a double disc on this. Have two drive plates but, the tags on one of them just get in the way and can't mount the disc over it.
-
Hi Trigger,
I believe I have a spare one of these...
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4363/37187325715_73f264a909_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4383/36373248223_e328df2ae8_z.jpg)
Cheers,
CR21
-
Price please as I am on a tight budget ;)
-
Price please as I am on a tight budget ;)
Hi Trigger, pm sent.
Thanks,
CR21
-
Have a bit of time today so, thought I may as well get the forks assembled.
The stanchions were a little rusty and pitted were water had been trapped under the head light brackets, the travel area is good to go. This was done by a Metallisation Flame Spray in the form of a single wire of zinc is melted in an oxy-propane flame. The molten material is atomised by a cone of compressed air and propelled towards the substrate. The molten zinc solidifies to form a dense strongly coherent coating with excellent anti-corrosion qualities, 35-40 microns.
The internal parts have been through the wash and have been sitting in diesel to prevent any rust.
I always use 13mm fork seals as, I have found that the 11mm ones seem it leak after a while and will be using ATF, instead of that expensive top shelf stuff :o
That's another £4 spent on seals ;)
-
Is that red diesel Trig Hope your not running the Landy on it LOL !!
-
I have never used any special tool to get fork seals in.
In the workshop oven at 50c or gas mark 0.4 for 15 mins, wipe a smear of silicone red grease around the seal and push in. If it doesn't go all the way home, then just use a old seal on top and tap it with a hammer until you can get the circlip in.
-
While in the storeroom found a nice pair of headlight brackets, only a little mark on one of them.
-
Is that red diesel Trig Hope your not running the Landy on it LOL !!
Its a landy and I am sure I read in the official Land rover manual that you should only use red :o
-
Is that red diesel Trig Hope your not running the Landy on it LOL !!
No good asking Trig that question Ross.... Fuel filling of all vehicles in this house comes under household chores, which is another one of my departments 🙄🙄🙄🙄
-
Is that red diesel Trig Hope your not running the Landy on it LOL !!
No good asking Trig that question Ross.... Fuel filling of all vehicles in this house comes under household chores, which is another one of my departments
If it was a "proper" Landy, you could run it on old vegetable oil, which a local chip shop pays us to take away! Eco friendly bio diesel, and recycling! Problem is with modern electronic control stuff it can't handle it!
Sent from my POT-LX1 using Tapatalk
-
Is that red diesel Trig Hope your not running the Landy on it LOL !!
No good asking Trig that question Ross.... Fuel filling of all vehicles in this house comes under household chores, which is another one of my departments
If it was a "proper" Landy, you could run it on old vegetable oil, which a local chip shop pays us to take away! Eco friendly bio diesel, and recycling! Problem is with modern electronic control stuff it can't handle it!
Sent from my POT-LX1 using Tapatalk
Used to run my old Sierra 2.3 diesel on old cooking oil in the late '90's, strained through a pair of Cathy's old tights until I got nicked by the Frying Squad ;D
-
Is that red diesel Trig Hope your not running the Landy on it LOL !!
No good asking Trig that question Ross.... Fuel filling of all vehicles in this house comes under household chores, which is another one of my departments
If it was a "proper" Landy, you could run it on old vegetable oil, which a local chip shop pays us to take away! Eco friendly bio diesel, and recycling! Problem is with modern electronic control stuff it can't handle it!
Sent from my POT-LX1 using Tapatalk
Used to run my old Sierra 2.3 diesel on old cooking oil in the late '90's, strained through a pair of Cathy's old tights until I got nicked by the Frying Squad ;D
That actually made me laugh out loud Ash. 😂😂
-
Hairy if your local chippy asks to take the oil you are well in, was running my Mitsubishi L200 on 100% bio diesel till used oil got too expensive, then last local seller got shut down by HMRC!
-
Hairy if your local chippy asks to take the oil you are well in, was running my Mitsubishi L200 on 100% bio diesel till used oil got too expensive, then last local seller got shut down by HMRC!
Strange area if the tax rules there, you are allowed to produce/use 4,000 litres of bio fuel per annum and provided it is for personal use, duty free. If you use it in a work can or similar though it becomes liable for duty. Have the EU to thank for getting paid to take old vegetable oil, pig breeders used to collect it free of charge, but waste oil was outlawed by the EU from being put in animal swill/feeds, and it has to be disposed of in an approved/costly way.
Sent from my POT-LX1 using Tapatalk
-
Round here most oil suppliers to chippies take the old stuff back and sell it tomajour bio manufacturers for a profit so we were paying 85p ish a litre for used oil full of rubbish which meant we were at break even point with pump derv but spending time doing it
-
Not much progress this week as still waiting on the painter to do the frame and all metal black parts.
Had I little time so, stripped the speedo drive down and rebuild. If no one have ever seen one of these apart before and how many parts to it but, only one part number.
-
Thanks for this picture, last time I had it in my hands I wanted to disassemble it, but was afraid to damage something - what's to proper way to do it? Can yoi share your know how? ;)
-
Remove the seal, it should be reusable unless it is cracked or damaged.
Clean as much of the old grease out so, you can see what you are doing.
There is a wire circlip that needs to be removed and a shim washer under that. Once that is out you can remove the cog.
Take the grub screw out that holds the end cap on and push the end cap out using the drive. You will find a washer on each end of the drive. Inspect these are nice and smooth as, any catching can make the clock needle wave.
Clean up all the parts, re grease and assemble ;)
-
Thanks a lot, now it is clear!
Another item I'll address during looong winter
Any particular grease you would recommend?
Looks mine is turning rather difficult, I suspect grease degraded or too thick
-
Any new grease is better than old grease :o
I just use some high temp stuff that is green and comes from Lucas ;)
-
Not much happening with this build, still waiting on all the frame and metal to be painted. Have the crank cases back from the strippers. Just have to remove the old corrosion that was under the old paint and lacquer and it will be ready to have all the threads chased and paint.
Will have to kick the painter soon as, I will soon have the bottom end ready and will put the bottom end in the frame and build up the top end.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
-
I think I pulled the short straw with the deal on the powder coating. Ended up peening for him nearly all day but, at least all the metal parts are coated.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
-
When you are doing this prep work, you always forget something and this time it was to mask up the top shock mount threads. It came out OK, even starting with a old rusty frame.
Also did a few other bits and I have never had a 500 four swinging arm next to a 750K. I was surprized that the 750 arm is a lot shorter.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
-
That answers a question I had in mind about the swing arm on my 500 frame, it’s a 750 one. It don’t half sharpen up the handling.
-
I was thinking sort wheel base ::) Does your have a std rear sprocket and how many links is your chain ?
-
Does the wheel still look centered on the rear mudguard?
Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk
-
Does the wheel still look centered on the rear mudguard?
Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk
I have just fitted it loosely and it is in the centre to the frame.
The 500 four arm is
241mm ID rear ( at the wheel spindle )
228mm OD at the front
425mm from the centre of the swing arm mount to the centre of the swing arm shock mount.
The 750K arm is
242mm ID rear ( at the wheel spindle )
228mm OD at the front
390mm from the centre of the swing arm mount to the centre of the swing arm shock mount.
That's a difference of 35mm and this is my concern's. This will be a different rake / angle on the rear shocks and what effect would that bring with a 750K arm fitted to a 500 four ?
-
Been throwing some parts on the frame to see what I have missing. Still got a 20kg bucket at the zinc platers and will not know on the fasteners until that is back.
The relocation of the ignition switch worked out well. Found a old switch in a parts box but, not sure if it is any good.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
-
The ignition barrel and key look the same as my old CB160!
-
I was thinking sort wheel base ::) Does your have a std rear sprocket and how many links is your chain ?
Yes trigger standard rear sprocket and I just put the chain on as I came from DS which when adjusted brings it half way up on the adjustment scale, I was waiting for a bit of stretch to take a link or 2 out.
-
I was thinking sort wheel base ::) Does your have a std rear sprocket and how many links is your chain ?
Yes trigger standard rear sprocket and I just put the chain on as I came from DS which when adjusted brings it half way up on the adjustment scale, I was waiting for a bit of stretch to take a link or 2 out.
I have done some maths on using a 750K arm on a 500 four and yes, it would improve the handling on the front end ( making it more responsive ) but, the rear shock angle will upset the tail end suspension as you will loose a lot of damping and the spring will be operating like a pogo stick over any hard bumps ;)
-
Trigger I had noticed the rear end was rather hard even on the lowest setting but it’s nothing that you wouldn’t dial in with a set of after market set of shocks (Koni etc) to improve over standard 70s Honda anyway.
-
I have never really been a fan of tapered head stock bearings on SOHC's and have always used the OEM ball bearing type. The kit came with a 5mm and 4mm packing washer for the bottom yoke so I fitted the 4mm washer but, the stops on the yoke are just touching the stop on the frame. After a bit of measuring up, even if i machine off the washer to 3mm it is still nowhere near a fit like the OEM type.
Another problem I have found is with the taper bearings is, there is a 2mm gap from the top of the rubber in the headlight bracket to the top yoke :o . I will go back to the OEM ball bearing type.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
-
I found on the 500 that no washer worked, perhaps i was just lucky
-
I found on the 500 that no washer worked, perhaps i was just lucky
The distance between the bottom edge frame stop and the high point on the bottom yoke ( steering lock area) is 3.2mm so, if I remove the packing washer (4mm) it will touch mate.
-
I know the one i did it on was a total mish mash of parts so i must have struck lucky for once.
I wasnt using a taper "kit" but individual bearing from Hy-Level, top and bottom bought seperatelyand niether had washers.
-
I know the one i did it on was a total mish mash of parts so i must have struck lucky for once.
I wasnt using a taper "kit" but individual bearing from Hy-Level, top and bottom bought seperatelyand niether had washers.
Nice to have some luck on it all fitting OK.
I will have another look at it tomorrow but, I have never had this problem with the old ball bearings ;)
-
On contrary I'm definitely fan of tapered one.
I did that 3x already (CBF1000F, 750 K7, 550 K1).
On 750 K7 and 550 K1 - under bottom one I used one of washers to keep OEM bottom bearing height. Upper, I had to grind upper cup that holds upper bearing. Yes there is appox 2mm gap as you noticed, Trig, but easy to fix, either rubber or stainless washer with right thickness.
Handling is heavily improved! Especially later, no maintenance, much longer lifetime. On my CBF1000F it finally fixed many years present issue of hadlebar wobbling.
-
On contrary I'm definitely fan of tapered one.
I did that 3x already (CBF1000F, 750 K7, 550 K1).
On 750 K7 and 550 K1 - under bottom one I used one of washers to keep OEM bottom bearing height. Upper, I had to grind upper cup that holds upper bearing. Yes there is appox 2mm gap as you noticed, Trig, but easy to fix, either rubber or stainless washer with right thickness.
Handling is heavily improved! Especially later, no maintenance, much longer lifetime. On my CBF1000F it finally fixed many years present issue of hadlebar wobbling.
It will not make any difference if you grind the upper cup as, the bearing sits proud and you can't grind the bearing.
I have made up some new spacer washers at 2.5mm thick which reduces the 2mm gap at the headlight bracket to leave a 0.5mm gap. The head light bracket rubbers need to be compressed by 0.5 mm on the top and bottom rubbers to stop the headlight brackets vibrating and causing the headlight bulbs to blow. I can't find that extra 1.5mm don't matter what i do ;)
[attachimg=1]
-
2 rubber washers will make it. That's the way I did. I also have ready washers made for this purpose from stainless steel with several thickness. If you want some, tell me height you need to cover, I can send you some in evelope
-
Ive got 2 frames on the bench both with hy level bearings, i will let you know when i find the bottom yolks to fit up
-
cheers for the offer Erny.
In these tapper bearing kits it is the top roller and cup that is too deep. As a result of this you will only get the top nut on 1 and a 1/4 threads and the ears are not a good fit. I have gone back to the old ball race OEM type and now the top nut is 4 and a 1/2 turns on and the headlight brackets fit perfectly ;)
The ideal pack washer on the bottom is 3mm and who ever made up these kits needs to look at them again. But, they are only using tapper bearings that are available on the market. The only way I could get a extra turn on the top nut was to use a thinner washer but, still not enough thread.
[attachimg=1]
-
Contemporarily, many of us near him bought taper roller kits from Dave Degens at his Dresda shop over in Putney.
He bought the standard size bearings and then had a machine shop grind one of them to make a straight swap from factory fit to comprise the kit. So that fits in with your experience here Trig.
Must admit that I didn't pay much attention to exactly what he modded but fitted a fair few kits to friends bikes then. Always no adaption needed, and all installed as original kit. Seem to remember that the bearing id was missing from one of the faces, suggesting that they'd just been mounted of a mag base and skimmed with a linear surface grinder.
Probably a little market here for correct set nowadays, that would fit properly as most seam to come up with the problem you observe.
I've always felt as Erny does, they make a good mod for these bikes and are much move resilient than ball races.
-
Contemporarily, many of us near him bought taper roller kits from Dave Degens at his Dresda shop over in Putney.
He bought the standard size bearings and then had a machine shop grind one of them to make a straight swap from factory fit to comprise the kit. So that fits in with your experience here Trig.
Must admit that I didn't pay much attention to exactly what he modded but fitted a fair few kits to friends bikes then. Always no adaption needed, and all installed as original kit. Seem to remember that the bearing id was missing from one of the faces, suggesting that they'd just been mounted of a mag base and skimmed with a linear surface grinder.
Probably a little market here for correct set nowadays, that would fit properly as most seam to come up with the problem you observe.
I've always felt as Erny does, they make a good mod for these bikes and are much move resilient than ball races.
There is something not right with this top bearing. Sat down and went through a ton of tapper bearing spec's and couldn't find one that would work. The only way to get the top bearing to sit lower is to mill the head stock so, the cup sits lower.
One to one and a quarter turns on the top nut is not ideal in engineering ;)
-
Think it is as you find it, standard bearings will give the discrepancy observed and seen by others on here with kit parts.
What Degens did I'm not sure but they do fit. Vague memory is that the bearing numbers where missing from one of them, suggesting that both the cup and centre had been ground to reduce overall installed height and bring assembly within range of Honda fit.
The rollers stay clear of the narrowest taper point as far as most of them are arranged, giving scope to grind that face and move the outer track down into the frame without dropping the rollers through the track at their narrowest point. That along with a grind of the top most bore track maybe would get it there.
Friend has an old K6 with one of those sets installed, but don't think he'd want it dismantled to just have a look. :)
-
Going through some old boxes and came across an old Cibie headlight. I know that oldjob has said about these before but, I have never really had a good look at one. They have a reflector in front of the bulb and a clear bit of lens on the right side only.
Found some old clock, which I think are 550K1 or K2.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
-
Cibies were always the Mutts, expensive, nutts only bettered by C E V Marchall which had 2 seperate bulbs
-
Looks to be a UK spec Z180, which is the best one for bikes.
They have a very long reach left hand illumination that is kept away from oncoming driver's view on dip beam, so particularly effective for the rider even with vehicles coming the other way. Also helps to keep that range even when lent over.
Very fancy ;D a pukka vintage piece.
-
Just to complete my experience from istalling tappered bearing kit on 750 K7 and 550 K1.
in both cases, I used All Balls kit 22-1011, content on the pic, including install instructions
Lower bearing - simply take OEM one, put it next to new tappered one and select proper wasther to have the same height. Don't remember which one I took, but it was exactly the same height finally than OEM.
Upper one - I used only seal and bearing w/o washer. Additionaly I grind off ridges from the spanner nut to ensure it sits flush.
This ensures that nut is turned enough to secure top.
Only outstanding issue is gap (appox 1-2mm) on top of ears - can be easily fixed by O-rings or custom made flat rubber washer or stainless steel washer(s).
note: photo of spanner nut after grinding is not mine (I forgot to take pics..) but looks like mine ;)
-
Yes that is the kit that I fitted. The lower bearing was a good fit but, the issue is the top cup and bearing. Even without the top seal and washer it was still too proud and not enough thread to safely secure the top nut. Even if you ground off the ridges of the spanner nut, that would only give you another quarter to half a turn more on the top nut.
As I have already explained that the only way, would be to mill out the seating area of the head stock about 3mm so that the cup sat lower. I have a old rotted out frame and will cut the head stock off and mill it, then refit this kit to see what results I can get. I will do this at a later date ;)
-
Got the tank back today, all filled and prep up ready for paint. Many thanks to the member who did the tank for me ;)[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
-
Graham you must be the only person to have a 250u poster on your wall ;D
I like the bars There better then the US spec I'v been tempted to buy lower bars for the 550
-
Graham you must be the only person to have a 250u poster on your wall ;D
I like the bars There better then the US spec I'v been tempted to buy lower bars for the 550
So, you didn't spot the CD250 new exhaust hanging beside it ;D
Will have to change the bars as those ones are a little low for a 550F tank and the throttle cable hits the tank on full lock. Need about another inch raise ;)
-
I don;t know how I missed that. Good find its easier to find sandcast parts.
I wouldn't have noticed the cables hitting the tank as that would be acceptable on an Italian bike.
The switch gear and the top yoke hit the guzzi tank ???
-
Trig, what bars are those? From DSS? What exact part no?
-
Trig, what bars are those? From DSS? What exact part no?
I don't know, just a aftermarket set with no holes that a member donated to me.
Have a load of old Honda low bars and will find another set that are more suitable .
-
Was doing some paint work on a CB750K2 that I am putting together so, did the disc's for this project. A lot of masking and two coats of satin caliper paint.
Hubs were powder coated when the frame was done. Not for the purist ::) But a lot easier to keep clean ;)
Will get the wheels together this week with, new bearings NTN 6304 and 6305 for the rear and SKF 6302's for the front. Have a new set of DID rims and have a set of stainless steel spokes from a customers set of rims who wanted to go back to original spokes :o
[attachimg=1]
-
Got the speedo drive in the post for a twin disc.
Went to fit a engine for a member yesterday and he had a spare 500 four main loom. In good condition, just a corroded spade needed replacing and the main earth feed wire. This will do the job for this build.
Tank and panels are on there way to Ireland. Another member is going to sort the paint and clear coat.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
-
Speedo drive looks well made Graham, can you say where you got it, made my own back in the day but if ones available that's better I might replace it as I'm doing the resto.
If you read back through the thread, the pictures and supplier is there. You do need the cut away hub for this to work ;)
-
I missed those pics mate, you are using a later hub if it was an early one they have the two flats machined on them for the downward facing tangs on the drive on left in your pic the fit to.
-
I missed those pics mate, you are using a later hub if it was an early one they have the two flats machined on them for the downward facing tangs on the drive on left in your pic the fit to.
Strange, I can see them on page 2 >>> www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,20419.15.html
-
Yup just me being dumb, must have skipped a page by mistake mate
-
Yup just me being dumb, must have skipped a page by mistake mate
Your not the only one mate, oddjob also missed it out and I thought he would of picked up on the Cibie headlight ;D ;D ;D
-
Some of the newer bulbs are really good in these H4 fit units.
https://www.powerbulbs.com/product/philips-white-vision-ultra-h4-twin?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxI6NrqP35gIVA7DtCh1Y1AjxEAQYBiABEgJ4LvD_BwE
These above are worthwhile as they move the colour balance more from older yellow to closer in match to more current blue types (4200 K rating), both Phillips and Osram are technically very good quality.
You can't buy them for 99p though Graham ;D
-
Some of the newer bulbs are really good in these H4 fit units.
https://www.powerbulbs.com/product/philips-white-vision-ultra-h4-twin?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxI6NrqP35gIVA7DtCh1Y1AjxEAQYBiABEgJ4LvD_BwE
These above are worthwhile as they move the colour balance more from older yellow to closer in match to more current blue types (4200 K rating), both Phillips and Osram are technically very good quality.
You can't buy them for 99p though Graham ;D
I did have a weird drain problem on a 750 last year and Hairygit advised that I try a LED headlight bulb. Tried these and they worked well >>> www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2pcs-H4-18W-2000LM-Motorcycle-LED-Headlight-Bulb-6000K-3-COB-Hi-Lo-Beam-Light/362653275661?hash=item546fd1d60d:g:ysIAAOSwXD5c331J
-
Oooh, that'll be interesting. Are you going to use one of those in the Cibié?
-
Oooh, that'll be interesting. Are you going to use one of those in the Cibié?
Not sure yet. Bought a trade pack of 10 so, have a load of them ;D
-
Did a little bit more today. I will not be having the pilot lights and will just have a oil pressure light fitted in the stem nut.
Was trying to find a good set of secondhand bars, most are bent but, did find a old set of 550 F ones that will work. While going through all the bars I did notice that most sellers of the UK 750K bars list them at 2.5" rise when the original ones are 2 1/4" rise :o So started looking at listings UK 550F bars and they are listed as 2.5" rise when, they are 2" rise on the original bars.
Very easy to spot original OEM bars as they have the dots on them for lining up.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
[attachimg=4]
[attachimg=5]
-
That looks like the japanese market stem nut with light attached to tell you when you exceeded a set speed, i let Ash have the nos stock one i had for use on one of his jdm restos. He should be able to give you a part number from the Japanese 500 parts book he has of mine if you ask
-
But they are standard halogen not led
-
That looks like the japanese market stem nut with light attached to tell you when you exceeded a set speed, i let Ash have the nos stock one i had for use on one of his jdm restos. He should be able to give you a part number from the Japanese 500 parts book he has of mine if you ask
I made that one from a superseded top nut and a Lucas push fit light mate.
-
Thats a 750, Trigger is building a 500 and the generator is electrically smaller
-
Just out of curiosity, how is the budget looking? On target for under a grand?
-
Just out of curiosity, how is the budget looking? On target for under a grand?
It is not going good. With all the parts that have been donated, the list I have spent looks like this :
Side panels x 2 £70
Wheel rims x 2 £220
Master cylinder £30
Stop & tail lights £7
Sub loom £5
Clock bracket £10
Fork seals £4
Battery leads £8.30
Ignition key £10.17
Plastic elbow for air box £1.20
Speedo drive £35
Tank prep £20
Wheel Bearings £19.16
Tyres £139.00
Number plate lights £3.25
Number plate £6.95
Additional wiring £7.45
Airbox rubbers £27.60
Rim tape 19" £3.00
Inner tubes £13.00
Handlebar grips OEM £16.56
Cable set £36
Total £692.64 :o
-
Just out of curiosity, how is the budget looking? On target for under a grand?
It is not going good...
I think I see the problem. Can you make one without wheels?
-
Just out of curiosity, how is the budget looking? On target for under a grand?
It is not going good...
I think I see the problem. Can you make one without wheels?
Yes, wheels do get expensive but, you are not going anywhere without them. Add on the cost of good quality stainless spokes and your be up to about £600 :o
I could of saved a bit on these wheels as, i was offered a good secondhand set of rims.
-
Wheels are back together and have a old mudguard bracket as a template. It will have a old original mudguard on it but, I would have to have it off and on so many times to try and get this second pivot arm lined up and you can easy see what you are doing.
On this second pivot arm, do I need to pack the arm out at any of the mounting points ?
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
-
Only way to be certain is fit the front wheel andsee where the disc sits, swing bits need to be same place over disc and as parrallel as possible.
Hope that make sense.
First one i did was two 500 sliders one caliper in front one behind doing a cut n shut job on the fender bracket mounts, redid it with 550 forks and i dont think i used spacers on either but this was 75/6!!!
-
Trigger, Take a look at this site if you haven't seen it already. https://blacksquaremotorcycle.com/dual-disc-conversion/
He explains about mounting the second caliper with both the round and cut out hub designs.
-
Thats a very interesting article, might be worth putting in tricks and tips.
I know the "oval" did carry over into the US 550 K series for a while as i bought a few from Dave Silver, 750 hubs also perhaps Trigger knows when they changed.
When i did it it was with 500 front wheels which were deffinately of the "oval" of "flanged" type so the discs were symetrical.
-
Interesting.
Google Kyril Dambuleff.
I will ask him if we can reference his work.
Steve
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Thank you for the link eight0. I had read it but, what I have found is there are so many different fork bottoms on the 550's and 750's that you should never assume yours will be the same.
I used a cut away early hub but, I could not understand the speedo drive for it. The one I have will not sit in the cut away and the drive would not go in to the ID of the disc.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
[attachimg=4]
[attachimg=5]
-
And finally the disc centre hole :o If you do the maths from the pictures, nothing adds up.
[attachimg=1]
-
When I was trying to line everything up, I was doing one of the biggest mistakes as an engineer. I was reading loads of articles on how to do a double disc conversion and not taking in to account the two different hubs and all the different fork bottoms.
The article in Blacksquare said that you should have a 3mm gap on the top mount of the pivot. I was getting 2.564mm so, got a load of old fork bottoms out to compare and in the end I came up with 3 different gaps over 4 different fork bottoms.
3 hours later after a load of measuring from a datum line, I finally got it right :o
[attachimg=1]
-
When i get home next week Trigger i will measure the nos early drive i have, when i did mine i hotched out the inner hole in the disc carrier to make rectangular holes for the tangs, i could have ground the tangs to an ellipse shape instead.
-
As for the speedo drive thing, are you sure that's not an original drive with the prongs folded down? they were flat originally and used the chrome dish to secure them to the hub so it wouldn't fit inside the disc as it was never meant too.
The flat tabbed one is cupped and is in a picture on page 2 of this thread. I don't have another original to compare ;)
-
As for the speedo drive thing, are you sure that's not an original drive with the prongs folded down? they were flat originally and used the chrome dish to secure them to the hub so it wouldn't fit inside the disc as it was never meant too.
At a closer inspection, you are right Oddjob. I can see a few ruff cut marks on the edge.
-
Started on the engine today. These cases have already been to the acid strippers. Had to do a alloy repair on the front mount first.
Then it was remove all the corrosion and chase all the threads. Fill all the threads with bolts and test the threads. The last thing you will want to be doing is taking a crank case apart to do a thread repair. It takes a bit of time but, always worth while as it will be the last bolt that you put in the crank case that will strip the thread.
After a good blow out with the air line , running bottle brushes down every oil way and then a wipe over with thinners. Get the oven up to 50c and heat cases for half an hour, heat up the paint in hot water, help the flow. One light coat and back in the oven for 10 minutes, a medium second coat and back in the oven for another 10 minutes. Then the third heavy coat and in the oven for 30 minutes. Leave in a heated room for 24 to 48 hours and then back in the oven at 200c for a hour and a half.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
-
Trigger, is that an original period newspaper in the first pic?
-
Trigger, is that an original period newspaper in the first pic?
That will only just have been delivered where he lives ;) ;D
Nice living out in the wild blue yonder ;) At least I don't get my workshops and garage flooded ;D ;D ;D
-
Great thread Trigger, I'm really enjoying this build. Will you be taking it to Crich?
-
Trigger, is that an original period newspaper in the first pic?
That will only just have been delivered where he lives ;) ;D
Nice living out in the wild blue yonder ;) At least I don't get my workshops and garage flooded ;D ;D ;D
If mine got flooded the whole of your location would be under about 300ft of water ;D ;D
Any sign of a biblical flood I'm heading your way Paul. I won't be taking the Guzzi though got a hernia trying to back it into your drive. ;D
-
Great thread Trigger, I'm really enjoying this build. Will you be taking it to Crich?
I don't know what I will be having for dinner tomorrow, never mind what bike I will be riding in 6 months time ;)
-
You can't not bring it Graham. After all the excitement you have created amongst us mere mortals watching your wizardry! :P
-
Crank cases cured and ready for a bottom end build.
I am coming across this problem more and more these days on 350, 400, 500 and 550 starter clutches. The cog being damaged and with this one, the springs and pins stuck. Had to dump this one and find another good one from the stores.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
-
On to the gear box, a little wear on the centre dog, but good to go. Bearings all good and the small pump. Did find a pin that I could not identify as, this is a home made attempt out of a R clip that did not work, found a original replacement.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
-
[attachimg=1]
As I said before, it is always worth chasing all the threads as I had to repair one thread that would of been another spit of the cases to get to.
[attachimg=2]
-
I am always reading about kick start going wrong after a re build. This is down to who ever has done the rebuild has not replaced the circlip on the end of the kick shaft with a new one.
The circlip will stretch getting it off and will never go back to its original form so, will fall off and you will find loads of parts in your sump. A picture showing a old one and new.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
-
All the primary rubbers are good as, the PO rebuilt this engine with a shed load of new parts but, used a fecked crank. When replacing these rubbers always use a little red silicone grease to help the component's slide together. In the picture I have pointed out on the gear change shaft housing that the seal must not be pushed all the way. There is a oil feed that is behind it, block this by pushing the seal too far back and I can guarantee you will have a problem
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
-
I blob of bearing guard on the shells and everything is ready to go back together. Primary chain was new from the old engine. Bolts all sorted and ready. Just a double check that all the cogs mesh, all gears select ok and that the bearings are located on the pins.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
-
For many years, I always get asked : how much Honda Bond to use an sealing the crank cases. Even had a email once asking, how many tubes should he use :o
I have tried to show what amount of Honda bond should be used. It is just a smear and will show up more on the seals than the case mating.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
Cases bolted together, now just waiting for the zinc plater to pull his finger out so, I will have the wheel spacers and engine spacer. Then the engine can go in and the wheels can go on ;)
[attachimg=3]
-
It's great watching somebody that knows what they are doing, and as Paul said a great guide for someone doing the same job.
Cheers
Dennis
-
Graham,
thanks for detailed step by step description, will follow if I'll be doing rebuild one day
-
Bucket back from the zinc platers so, got the wheels back together and the first problem was the brake shoes. Some folk recon they don't have a problem fitting the 550 ones to the 500 four as, Mr Webley did and I have taken this up with DSS and EBC so many times now and all I get is " well the computer says it is a match".
The late 550 is 20.68mm at the pivot point and the 500 is only 20.00mm, this makes a big difference when trying to get the split pins in and other fitting problems.
I found a good Honda secondhand set, that has enough meat on and will send a old set away to have new shoes fitted.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
-
Wheels on and the bike is stable enough to fit the engine.
As I have already chased all the threads, just a quick squirt of silicone oil on the head studs and put in with my fingers.
Last thread turned with a torque wrench ;)
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
-
Graham, do you know if the 450/500 twin shoes are different?
-
Graham, do you know if the 450/500 twin shoes are different?
They were the same part number yonks ago before they started superseding all the part numbers. There used to be loads of people that used to re shoe brakes. You can still get them done for around £15 for the pair ;)
-
Back tracking to these brake shoes : Had a dig about and found two OEM sets. ASK-1037SR2 are the 390 type and ASK-A7GG are the 323 type. Two different manufacture part numbers ;)
-
Spent a few hours today trying to get the calipers to sit flat to the disc. A little hard as I have a tiny lip on the disc and after all my efforts I still had the right caliper toeing out by 0.65 top and 0.70 at the bottom. Had a measure up of the left caliper and that was not sitting flat to the disc.
I am not sure now how flat these should sit to the disc.
[attachimg=2]
-
Dont ever remember checking that Graham, as its a swinging caliper the pads wear at an angle(of sorts) anyway.
-
Dont ever remember checking that Graham, as its a swinging caliper the pads wear at an angle(of sorts) anyway.
The left is the standard factory set so, the right has to be a mirror image. I need half a mm at the rear of the caliper ( closest to the fork) as with the disc spinning the pad will digs in on the right side at the moment with the measurements shown. If that makes sense ?
-
Graham, isn't this somehow automatically "solved" once new pads are worn enough (first 100-150 miles)?
Odoslané z SM-G930F pomocou Tapatalku
-
It is hard to explain without getting too technical .
The first thing is why all these sites on a double disc are advising you pack the top pivot arm out with washers?. I have tried this and the caliper is not parallel to the disc.
The second concern is the left factory one has 0.50mm gap nearest the fork and sits flush at the front of the caliper touching the disc . I find this correct as when the disc is spinning the brake pad touches the disc at the front and it will drag to bed in.
The right hand caliper is touching at the back ( nearest the fork leg) and has a gap at the front. If you put a cylinder of metal in a lathe and spin it anti clockwise you can use a cutting tool if it is straight, angle the tool down and it will drag and still cut but, if you angle the tool up to cut in to a cylinder, that tool will start to judder and may snag and break.
So....what I am finding is that I need to skim a little bit of metal off of the caliper mount on the fork or, shave some metal off of the pivot arm mounts :-\ :-\ :-\ Which on all these web sites, no one has advised to do.
-
Spent a few hours today trying to get the calipers to sit flat to the disc. A little hard as I have a tiny lip on the disc and after all my efforts I still had the right caliper toeing out by 0.65 top and 0.70 at the bottom. Had a measure up of the left caliper and that was not sitting flat to the disc.
I am not sure now how flat these should sit to the disc.
(Attachment Link)
Interesting discovery on the measurements for the left Caliper.
I’m going to check mine to see what they are like. I’m still waiting on parts for the twin disc upgrade on my bike and am watching yours with interest.
Great info Trigger. This is really going to help me.
Just one thing I’ve noticed is that the Caliper adjusting pin extends beyond the fork attachment lug on the picture. Is this standard length or extended as I note that the locking nut is fitted inside to enable the spring to be compressed adequately?
-
OK, now I see!
I did not "read" your drawing properly...
Just thinking, maybe this issue does not exist on CB750 dual disk setup?
-
Spent a few hours today trying to get the calipers to sit flat to the disc. A little hard as I have a tiny lip on the disc and after all my efforts I still had the right caliper toeing out by 0.65 top and 0.70 at the bottom. Had a measure up of the left caliper and that was not sitting flat to the disc.
I am not sure now how flat these should sit to the disc.
(Attachment Link)
Interesting discovery on the measurements for the left Caliper.
I’m going to check mine to see what they are like. I’m still waiting on parts for the twin disc upgrade on my bike and am watching yours with interest.
Great info Trigger. This is really going to help me.
Just one thing I’ve noticed is that the Caliper adjusting pin extends beyond the fork attachment lug on the picture. Is this standard length or extended as I note that the locking nut is fitted inside to enable the spring to be compressed adequately?
I just put the nut next to the spring to pack it out while I waited for a longer spring to arrive, 45mm long at the correct spec. As this is not a original build, I just use a countersunk M6 machine screw as adjustment screws.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
-
Thanks for that. I’ll get a new spring and longer adjusting screw on order.
Are these just BZP?
-
Thanks for that. I’ll get a new spring and longer adjusting screw on order.
Are these just BZP?
BZP machine screw and a stainless spring ;)
-
I found the mounting lugs on the RH leg needed "finishing".
several assemblies ,and checking ,them filing to get the caliper parallel,and ensure the arm will swivel freely.
the better the alignment,the less spongy the brake will be untill it full beds in .
-
I found the mounting lugs on the RH leg needed "finishing".
several assemblies ,and checking ,them filing to get the caliper parallel,and ensure the arm will swivel freely.
the better the alignment,the less spongy the brake will be untill it full beds in .
Cheers John ;) that is what my findings are. Take a some off the fork leg mounts or take some off the pivot arm mounting points.
-
Did a quick re bore to 0.50 and painted the top end. To prepare pistons, make sure there are on little burrs that have been missed and if any found just take a very fine file to remove them.
Rebore on these pistons which are silicon alloy, and the piston to bore clearance 0.0250mm with a fine cross hatch. pistons matched to the bores.
Fit the CW15 circlip/ring clip. Piston 1&2 on the right side, 3&4 on the left. A smear of grease on the gudgeon pin and make sure it moves freely in the piston. Top ring usually has a chrome finish to the edge and numbers or letters face up. Second ring is usually black and numbers or letters face up. The best oil rings come in three parts and have no markings.
A smear of grease on the small end of the con rods and ready to fit to the rods. Arrow or triangles face the front, second circlip in
Prepare the bores with a smear of Graphogen on the bores, rubber grease on the outsides makes fitting the silicone 0'rings much easier.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
[attachimg=4]
[attachimg=5]
-
Barrels going back on, cam chain guide in and drop the barrels down. For some reason the barrels will not seat on the right hand oil jet and the left hand oil jet seated too easy. Barrels back off and I have a problem.
When I stripped this engine down, I was in a rush and had not noticed that the left side oil jet had been broken off in the barrel and drilled, also the right side had been drilled out so the oil jet could be fitted upside down :o I can't believe that I have had these barrels acid cleaned, peened, painted, rebored and it is not until I have come to fit them, I have noticed a problem ::)
Time to walk away and go back to it another day :'(
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
-
After a good sleep and a clear head.
Drilled out, reamed until I had a nice clean hole to work with and made some sleeves up for a press fit and a 9mm ID for the oil jet to sit in ;)
-
Knew you waz a decent engine driver mate!!
-
After my little repair to the barrels it is time for some head work.
Re grind the valve seats to Honda spec which is 37.5, a 45 and a 63.5 degree. Re face the valves with a 44.5 degree.
With valves and seats at a near match, just a little lap in with very fine grinding paste to get the perfect valve to seat match.
A smear of silicone grease on the valve stems and valve guides that were well within spec. Valve seating washers, valve stem seals and the springs back on with collects seated.
Locate the front cam guide and insert the tensioner and set it, head gasket on with upgraded 0'rings ( the only 0'rings I ever use from a full gasket seat are the silicone liner rings)
Head on and torque down to 18ftlb and will leave it as it is and re torque it again tomorrow ;)
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
-
A valve face doesn't need to be ground to death, you only need a 1 to 1.4mm face on them ;)
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
-
Trigger I am in awe of your craftsmanship it’s a joy to see and read, can’t wait to see the finished article.
-
Trig, with regards to second rotor/caliper, do you know this article? Maybe you can find some inspiration there?
https://blacksquaremotorcycle.com/dual-disc-conversion/
Odoslané z SM-G930F pomocou Tapatalku
-
Trig, with regards to second rotor/caliper, do you know this article? Maybe you can find some inspiration there?
https://blacksquaremotorcycle.com/dual-disc-conversion/
Odoslané z SM-G930F pomocou Tapatalku
Yes, I have read the link but, they are taking about the bike they are working on, there are many different types of fork legs ;)
-
Re torqued the head down and now time for the cam and rocker cover to go on.
Set the timing mark to 1.4, a smear of graphogen on the cam journals, cam shaft in from the left side with the cog on and line up the notch with the top surface of the head and the notch facing the front. Lift the chain on to the cog and locate the cog on the shaft. Have the sprocket bolts nice and clean, a dab of stud lock on the threads and torque to 12ftlb.
Rotate the crank 360 degrees and make sure the timing marks all line up. Turn the crank a little past the 1.4 mark to were the spring is mounted. This is the best position to set the cam chain. Tighten up the top bolt on the tensioner and loosen the nut on the at the bottom and it will automatically tension itself, hold the screw in place with a screwdriver and lock it using the nut.
Coat the cam lobes with a dab of bearing guard. Some people will tell you that you just put the pucks/ head sealing rubbers but, I always smear Honda bond on underside of the lip.
Prepare the rocker cover and take back the tappets and hold them up with elastic bands and a new gasket lightly smeared with silicone grease and bolt it down starting with the 4 bolts under the breather cover and work out a couple of turns at a time. Once bolted down put the breather cover on with a new gasket and a smear of silicone.
In my early years I always had trouble setting tappets, my teacher explained that you need 3 feeler gauges. If you are setting the inlets to 0.05 and it is just dragging, try to put 0.08 in, if 0.08 goes in then it is too loose. The same with the exhaust clearance, if you are setting to 0.08 and you can get 0.10 in it is too loose.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
[attachimg=4]
-
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
-
Clean crisp images from Trigger :o that .99p phone must be working a treat ;) ;D
No good as a phone Paul but, it is a great camera for 99p ;)
-
Clean crisp images from Trigger :o that .99p phone must be working a treat ;) ;D
No good as a phone Paul but, it is a great camera for 99p ;)
Phone probably OK just no signal where you live ;D ;D
You don't seem to have any trouble getting through on the hot line asking, a ton of questions :o ;) ;) ;D
-
Please remove the above post Paul.
-
Mark please remove post above.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
-
Was going to post but.......
-
Was going to post but.......
Just you carry on Tim 😊😊😊😊 before Graham comes along and deletes the whole thread 🤣🤣🤣🤣
-
Admin note: you can all delete your own posts but only admin can delete the first post in a thread as that deletes the thread.
So tidying up (like litter picking) is / should be the responsibility of everyone
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
absolutely awesome post Trig, do you know where you are on cost? or saving it till the last :) :) :)
-
Great thread Trigger, following with great interest.
-
Been trying to sort out a intermittent problem on one of the CD250's, convinced it was a electrical problem with the CDI, coils or pick up. Loads of test riding in the cold and found it to be the left hand carb :( Stripped, cleaned and running like a dream again.
Back on to this build now. Re lined shoes arrived and a great job for £21.95 with free post and they fit correctly .
[attachimg=1]
-
Hi Trigger, found this yesterday, what great write up of what I would call a very difficult proposition doing the bike for £1K. I notice that you are building up the motor in the frame is this something that I could do with my CB750 K3 or do I have to wrestle with the engine putting it back. Anyway keep with the posting its great to read how it should be done. ;) ;) ;) ;)
-
Hi Trigger, found this yesterday, what great write up of what I would call a very difficult proposition doing the bike for £1K. I notice that you are building up the motor in the frame is this something that I could do with my CB750 K3 or do I have to wrestle with the engine putting it back. Anyway keep with the posting its great to read how it should be done. ;) ;) ;) ;)
Sadly Steve, unless you cut the top frame tubes on a 750, you can only install the motor unit complete. Or install a 'gordons frame kit' or similar...
-
Hi Trigger, found this yesterday, what great write up of what I would call a very difficult proposition doing the bike for £1K. I notice that you are building up the motor in the frame is this something that I could do with my CB750 K3 or do I have to wrestle with the engine putting it back. Anyway keep with the posting its great to read how it should be done. ;) ;) ;) ;)
Sadly Steve, unless you cut the top frame tubes on a 750, you can only install the motor unit complete. Or install a 'gordons frame kit' or similar...
Don't wrestle he motor back in lay it on it's side and lower the frame onto it, it's a lot easier.
(http://imageshack.com/a/img922/4982/vddiTt.jpg)
Cheers
Dennis
-
A fantastic read Trigger, it's coming on well.
Who did the brake shoe relining, I need to get the shoes for my Triton relined as I cannot get replacement shoes.
Does the person you use also offer a brake drum skimming service to match the shoes to the drum (preferably with the tyre in situ)?
I think my drum has been pulled out of true when the stainless spokes were fitted.
Thanks
Dave
-
A fantastic read Trigger, it's coming on well.
Who did the brake shoe relining, I need to get the shoes for my Triton relined as I cannot get replacement shoes.
Does the person you use also offer a brake drum skimming service to match the shoes to the drum (preferably with the tyre in situ)?
I think my drum has been pulled out of true when the stainless spokes were fitted.
Thanks
Dave
Dave, Trig asked me to send the brake shoes off somewhere to get them re lined, so I used Villiers Services. £21.95 including return post, 7 day turnaround, excellent job. Just pop them in the post with a note of the make and model they come from with your contact details in case they need to contact you.
https://villiersservices.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=146
-
Great, thanks Julie 👍
-
A bit more done: All electrics tested and working and re built carbs on.
Things to still do:
Sort the front forks out, as I used a pair of 341's which are about a inch and a half too long. I measured up for the first design to have them coming through the top yoke with clip-ons on the top but, went for the original look in the end.
Fit the donated Delkevic exhaust.
The tank is finished and will be on its way back from Ireland.
Julie has started cutting up foam for the seat and will make a cover.
Still have to buy some brake lines.
Fit the caliper pistons, seals and pads.
Put some oil in and it is finished.
Yes, I am over budget but, if I took the good wheel rims that I was offered and not paid out for new ones , I would of been under budget :o
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
[attachimg=4]
-
looking good ,
-
nice one trig :)
-
Still have not finished this off yet.
Still waiting for the paint work to arrive, which is on it way.
I have lost count on how many times I have had this front end off. finally happy with how the right hand arm sits now. Took about 2mm off the mounting lugs and then had to shim the bottom one out by 0.30mm.
A down fall is you have to let the tyre down to now get it past both the caliper arms .
Got some Stainless steel pistons yonks ago which had the right dia but, too long so, a quick skim in the lathe and found some old stock vesrah pads.
[attachimg=1]
-
It's coming along nicely. I love the tank and side panels colour. Best of luck with the rest of it :)
-
Just found my old Cibie headlight and on first look it appears to be identical. Mine was listed as a Z beam, there were others which looked the same but didn't have the same beam pattern. Mine is stamped on the front of the glass with Cibie with IODE just under it. Just to the right is HCR just above a large E2 with 175 to the right of that. Just below that is an arrow pointing to the right and 112 just below that. The last one is right in the middle at the bottom with what looks to be a Delta triangle above another E2 and that above 589. I can see the reflector dish in front of the bulb but all markings on the reverse of mine have gone as it was sprayed with zinc paint to stop any corrosion. Have you tested it yet to see how it performs?
Some questions which occured to me as I re-read the thread.
On page 11 just below the pic of the Honda grinder what exactly are you doing. It looks like a machine for refacing the surfaces of the valve but I seem to recall the Honda grinder has 3 type of stones you fitted which reflected the angle you wanted to grind on the face.
Have you fitted the coils backward as it looks to be the case, nice to see someone has actually routed the leads correctly for 1 and 4 cylinders, on the 550 they are meant to be routed over the engine and clipped to the breather cover. Most seem to just dangle them over the engine so they approach from the front of the engine rather than the back. And before you all say I'm wrong please consult the wiring/cable schematic for the 550 and you can see them on it. True the coils face forward but I found them easier to route with them going backward and it also protects the leads from rain etc so they short out a LOT less.
Going very well Graham, not sure yet on the state of my 500 bores as not started dismantling the engine yet but if it needs a rebore I'll send it down to you.
Yes, 3 angles on grinding the valve seats
[attachimg=1]
-
Did this ever get finished Trig?
-
It was when i saw it last year inbetween lockdowns and looked magnificent
-
Yes Roy, Trig finished it early last Summer but I didn't get round to making the seat until January of this year 🙄🙄🙄
It's not on the road yet as I need to sell off some bikes, starting with Grahams 750/4 Mongrel, RUF, which I will put up for sale probably next month, as we have run out of room for parking the bikes that are on the road.
Here's some pics 😁
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
[attachimg=4]
[attachimg=5]
-
Very nice job as usual. Is that the same exhaust as on your mongrel Julie.
-
Very nice job as usual. Is that the same exhaust as on your mongrel Julie.
No Roy, Millie, my Mongrel has an original Yoshi on it, Graham fitted a Delkevic to this one.
-
Usually Delkavic means noisy?
-
Usually Delkavic means noisy?
It's a lot quieter than my Yoshi 😊😊😊😊
-
I'm surprised at that as Millie is fairly quite. Now the big question, was it under a grand?
-
I'm surprised at that as Millie is fairly quite. Now the big question, was it under a grand?
I will do a final tally later but it was just over a grand because Graham chose to buy new wheels for it instead of using a set of used ones he had here. But, it wasn't very far over a grand.
-
I have to say the finished bike looks brilliant to my amateur eye.
A keeper is it then?
-
Tidy! Great job guys. 👍
-
I have to say the finished bike looks brilliant to my amateur eye.
A keeper is it then?
Yes Ted, this one is a keeper for Graham.
-
Looks awesome. I like the styling...
-
I like it, great colour :).
-
Really great looking bike - How you built it for that sort of money!
-
Never really got around to posting on here and sadly no longer have my 400/4. I do however pop in often and enjoy the posts and banter. This bike looks great Graham and Julie. I do have a pair of period mirrors if you would be able to use them. Quite happy to donate them and the postage to the project. Just shout if any use to you and it will clear another small space on the shelf
Best wishes
Mo
-
Really great looking bike - How you built it for that sort of money!
Skill and contacts!!
-
And a big pile of spare parts already in the corner. Nice job Trig.
-
Never really got around to posting on here and sadly no longer have my 400/4. I do however pop in often and enjoy the posts and banter. This bike looks great Graham and Julie. I do have a pair of period mirrors if you would be able to use them. Quite happy to donate them and the postage to the project. Just shout if any use to you and it will clear another small space on the shelf
Best wishes
Mo
Thank you Mo, that is very kind of you. Yes please but I insist on at least paying for the post. I will send you a PM.
-
Hi Julie.
Posted this afternoon Royal Mail second class. Happy they can be put to use.
Best wishes
Mo
-
Hi Julie.
Posted this afternoon Royal Mail second class. Happy they can be put to use.
Best wishes
Mo
Thank you very much Mo, I will let you know when they arrive.
Thanks again.
-
Great job Trig! Bike looks great, that color is really superb!
Wish to have spares to build bike like that too, post some photos once on the road
-
Not much progress this week as still waiting on the painter to do the frame and all metal black parts.
Had I little time so, stripped the speedo drive down and rebuild. If no one have ever seen one of these apart before and how many parts to it but, only one part number.
Where are those two small washers from?
-
Not much progress this week as still waiting on the painter to do the frame and all metal black parts.
Had I little time so, stripped the speedo drive down and rebuild. If no one have ever seen one of these apart before and how many parts to it but, only one part number.
Where are those two small washers from?
On both ends the shaft Dan.
[attachimg=1]
-
Is the bike on the road now Julie, I don't remember seeing any photos of it on your 2022 out & abouts. I bet that paint looks stunning in the sunshine😎.
-
Is the bike on the road now Julie, I don't remember seeing any photos of it on your 2022 out & abouts. I bet that paint looks stunning in the sunshine😎.
Oh yes Dave, a regular rider.
[attachimg=1]
-
That’s a lovely pair if you don’t mind me saying so! 🫢😄
-
That’s a lovely pair if you don’t mind me saying so! 🫢😄
😂 😂 😂 😂 😂 😂 😂
-
Wow, fantastic Julie. Looks like a factory bike Honda should have built back in the day 8)
-
I love the clean and simple look.
If Honda DID make a bike looking like that, I would want one. They had the chance with the CB1100, but somehow just never got it right.
Ah well.... back to the endless hunt for an exhaust I like for my 750.