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« Last post by K2-K6 on April 25, 2024, 10:53:58 AM »
Not owning a 500, I've not that specific experience to offer.
A big BUT though, genuinely I've never had problems with plug "fouling" on four stroke engines, that's across all bikes and cars I've looked after since early 1970s.
Another observation, the Boyer ignition is very, very competent in it's delivery. I've no problem working with the std system, believing it to be mechanically almost peerless in it's design, application and component specification .... the Boyer i can see by comparison does offer tangible benefits if that's chosen by the owner though.
Among those benefit appears the ability to fire more adverse mixture range more of the time with exceptional repeatability. This seems to support a more optimum idle mixture that may give benefit in any residual unburnt component/fuel that may be affecting the fouling determination this topic is about.
Very loosely, NGK plug heat range on these engines could be approximated to continuous load under wider throttle for extended periods of time.
A 7 giving ROUGHLY decent coverage for 7000 rpm running.
Likewise, an 8 for predominately covering an 8000 rpm consistent load type riding. Etc, etc
Basically its a balance of number of actuation per minute against heat clearance from the engine, ambient air temp also playing a part in air cooled motors too.
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« Last post by Nurse Julie on April 25, 2024, 10:51:07 AM »
Welcome to the forum Kev.
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« Last post by Kevb on April 25, 2024, 10:40:43 AM »
Hi, I have just joined the group to get more experience from other members I currently have a Honda cb550f2 in blue have been working on it for sometime now it’s nearly finished but still jobs seem to pop up but looking foward to getting advice from the group
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« Last post by Johnwebley on April 25, 2024, 08:53:01 AM »
Back in the 80s
I also used Champion A8Y
Definitely a projecting nose plug,
The bike ran well, but they became difficult to get
Sent from my SM-A546E using Tapatalk
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« Last post by deltarider on April 25, 2024, 08:36:49 AM »
Aha, that is valuable information. I had not seen this half-grade mentioned before. In Holland the general advice was to have the D8ES-L. Let me put it like this: if the D8ES-L fouled, than a "7" also did. Now that we're older  and also have a lower national speed limit than back then, both the 7 and the D8ES-L can be used no prob. I am curious if the D8EA is identical with the D8ES-L and if the D7E A also has a tip that protrudes just a fraction more than the D7ES. I have tried to see the difference myself, but I'm afraid the difference is minor and... older eyes don't help either.
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« Last post by Bryanj on April 25, 2024, 08:34:51 AM »
Trouble with the Haynes Ash it tries to cover the 350,400,500 and 550 the smaller ones are different enough to make that cnfusing rading.
I was told that Haynes had bought Clymer but not sure how true that is, their museum is worth a visit
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« Last post by AshimotoK0 on April 25, 2024, 07:58:35 AM »
When I am at work next week I am going to scan my CB500/4 Haynes Manual. Much maligned by some folk on here but I find them a decent addition to the Genuine Honda Shop manual. I already scanned the 750 SOHC one and it's in my Dropbox links already.
I also have the 500 Clymer one I think but from memory that was all over the place and I never got on with it.
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« Last post by AshimotoK0 on April 24, 2024, 09:58:24 PM »
Wow, fantastic that's a great result. A thousand thank you's Ash. Without your help with parts I'd be well and truly stuck.
As for the plating, if you are plating other parts (for the RSA maybe 🤔) I'd be more than happy to wait as I have plenty to be getting on with in the meantime in terms of assembly but please don't give yourself any additional work if it distracts you from your own build👍.
By the way, the airbox you sent previously has come up a treat using the hot air gun to bring the oil up to the surface followed by a long soak in some Auto Glym rubber & vinyl restorer.
Thanks again.
Dave
No worries .. I will do them Wednesday next week if that's OK Dave. Not got much done on CB250RS lately as we recently went to Tenerife and then Derbyshire for Cathy's birthday. I will update my resto thread soon. Everything is in epoxy primer including the frame and tank etc ready for paint. I am going for 2k semi-gloss on the frame etc and I got 1 litre (thins to 2l) of Dalcoat base-coat for the pearl blue metallic (correct Honda code .... a fraction of the cost from RS Bikepaint) plus some beautiful decals with loads of discount from Piki. The delay has been checking the frame for misalignment but my DIY jig and calcs. say it's with 0.4°, which I deemed to be just about OK. I think if I hadn't taught myself to paint to a reasonable standard over the last 2 years the project wouldn't have been economically viable. I guess I will be in it if for the tune of £2k total but that includes a totally NOS top end apart from the camshaft.
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Great feeling. Good job
Very surprised the stud extractor did not work. Did you use the one size smaller than the one that fit and tap it on?
Yes and it just tore off some of the remaining metal but there was just a small nub left. Still I’m sure they will come in useful in the future
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« Last post by Laverda Dave on April 24, 2024, 09:09:49 PM »
Wow, fantastic that's a great result. A thousand thank you's Ash. Without your help with parts I'd be well and truly stuck.
As for the plating, if you are plating other parts (for the RSA maybe 🤔) I'd be more than happy to wait as I have plenty to be getting on with in the meantime in terms of assembly but please don't give yourself any additional work if it distracts you from your own build👍.
By the way, the airbox you sent previously has come up a treat using the hot air gun to bring the oil up to the surface followed by a long soak in some Auto Glym rubber & vinyl restorer.
Thanks again.
Dave
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