Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => Other Bikes => Topic started by: AndyD on July 06, 2021, 06:40:01 PM
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Evening all,
Spent the last two days stripping and rebuilding the front end on the GSX1100EZ as there was a weep on one of the fork seals.
Heavy bugger to work on but all went surprisingly smoothly until...
Tightening up the axle clamp nuts and one of the threads stripped at the very end where the nut fits.
I'd like to pull out the old stud and fit a new one but never tried this before and wasn't sure how easy stud removal might be.
Seen a few stud removal tools on Amazon so hoping someone may have a recommendation on which type to use.
The full stud is there with just the last bit stripped so have good thread above that - could try screwing on two nuts as a first option.
Any advice very come - really don't want to strip the front end and forks down again so hopefully can do this in situ.
Cheers,
Andy
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Hi Andy. Before you buy anything, try locking a couple of nuts against each other on the good part of the thread and see if you can just wind it out.
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Go with the 2 nuts,
Maybe apply some heat, and penetrating fluid, leave it to soak,
You could try tapping the stud with a hammer, it may help to break the seal.
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Thanks guys,
I'll try the two nuts approach first and hopefully it'll work.
I have no idea how well these studs are normally fixed into the fork leg and whether they are 'easy' to remove - guess I'm about to find out tomorrow when I go back to it.
Cheers,
Andy
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Good pair vice grips on the smooth part of stud and as tight as you can snap them together, especially if your threads are bad.
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Thanks guys,
I'll try the two nuts approach first and hopefully it'll work.
I have no idea how well these studs are normally fixed into the fork leg and whether they are 'easy' to remove - guess I'm about to find out tomorrow when I go back to it.
Cheers,
Andy
If you can, get the penetrating fluid on as soon as possible,
The more you can do,the more likely it will work,
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Oddjobs mention of two serrated nuts is a new one on me, like it ! you live and learn !
Danger is , so much grip , watch you don't shear the stud at the alloy face, then you're in the s**t.
Softly softly catchee monkey !!!!
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No heard that one either, nice to pick up a new tip, never too old or too stupid to learn! Never heard that one about the scouser either! 😂😂 What a sheltered life I live up in the North!
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I have recently bought a Metric Set of these - I used some Imperial ones decades ago that were a RR apprentice tool. They work well but if the studs are really tight you do need to replace them as the tool distorts the stud slightly. Also always use a T Bar to avoid off centre sideways force.
They are ideal for re-fitting studs as well - they are a type of chuck arrangement - the three rollers that are offset inside the tool grip the stud - you can often fit the tool so it grips on the unthreaded section.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363212603703?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
Update my 6 mm tool seems to big so I am in touch with the sellers as it does not clamp onto the stud as it should!!
Update of update - seller is ending me a replacement 6 mm unit.
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Snap on do a tool with a threaded hole and taper outside that is clamped into the outer case and tightens increadibly tight on the thread with a 22mm hex on the top.
I have one in 8mm for when i was doing rd350lc exhausts mods, if i can lay hands on it you can borrow it for a deposit
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Thanks again,
Tried to get the nuts onto the thread but didn't want to go on smoothly due to the mangled end thread.
I've ordered a stud extractor due to arrive tomorrow so hopefully will be a miracle cure!
Cheers,
Andy
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When I'm soaking studs with penetrating oil I use a loose "O" ring over the stud to act as a small reservoir that I can fill up.
Not very practical if you are working upside down though.
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Get it hot when you try and undo it, some have threadlock on them and heat loosens it
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Good reminder about heat loosening threadlock. Another use of heat I've used is to weld a nut on the damaged thread. The heat does some good and a spanner then fits the nut, I also "rattle" the nut with a light hammer as I put some torque on the spanner, that's worked a few times, working the spanner one way then the other whilst hitting it lightly end on to tease the stud loose.
Anything's better than shearing it off !
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Thanks guys,
Success ... new tool arrived this afternoon and actually worked just like it says on the tin!
The tool is pretty chunky so may be a problem for studs in confined areas but for the fork stud it worked beautifully.
[attach=1]
[attach=2]
Tightened it securely onto the stud and it loosened off surprisingly easily so a real result.
Feels like a tough bit of kit when tightening and grips the stud really well so happy to have another tool in the box!
Just have to wait for the new stud to arrive and I can get the bike back together again.
Thanks for all tips and advice
Cheers,
Andy
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Thanks guys,
Success ... new tool arrived this afternoon and actually worked just like it says on the tin!
The tool is pretty chunky so may be a problem for studs in confined areas but for the fork stud it worked beautifully.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Tightened it securely onto the stud and it loosened off surprisingly easily so a real result.
Feels like a tough bit of kit when tightening and grips the stud really well so happy to have another tool in the box!
Just have to wait for the new stud to arrive and I can get the bike back together again.
Thanks for all tips and advice
Cheers,
Andy
Is that the blue Point one with Lifetime Warranty?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143710545039?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
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Ted,
It’s the Laser one I went for.
Probably all much the same but for some reason I still feel some pull to familiar old names!
Cheers
Andy
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Well, new stud arrived quickly in the post.
[attach=1]
However the new one has a shorter thread section to go into the fork leg. Part number superseded and has obviously changed a bit over time.
Guess it must be OK but just 'feels' a bit wrong being so much shorter into the leg.
Cheers,
Andy
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Well, new stud arrived quickly in the post.
(Attachment Link)
However the new one has a shorter thread section to go into the fork leg. Part number superseded and has obviously changed a bit over time.
Guess it must be OK but just 'feels' a bit wrong being so much shorter into the leg.
Cheers,
Andy
Out of interest what size thread/stud is it ?
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Ted,
They are M8 studs, new one is about 42mm overall and roughly 5mm shorter than the original.
Cheers,
Andy
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Ted,
They are M8 studs, new one is about 42mm overall and roughly 5mm shorter than the original.
Cheers,
Andy
I bought the same tool as you but my exhuast studs are just too small as they are m6 - it's impossible to tighten the chuck onto the stud as it's at the smallest limit for the chuck. So far I have done a great job of flattening one of the threads - I got three out using two nuts but on the fourth stud the inner nut stripped so I need to cut it off. Luckily its a gash head given that I was practicing on.
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Well, new stud arrived quickly in the post.
(Attachment Link)
However the new one has a shorter thread section to go into the fork leg. Part number superseded and has obviously changed a bit over time.
Guess it must be OK but just 'feels' a bit wrong being so much shorter into the leg.
Cheers,
Andy
As you note, I'd also be uncomfortable about that too.
There's a fair amount of integrity needed there to prevent it pulling the threads out of the casting, and looks a step too far to me.
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Thanks all,
No idea why the new studs are shorter but seems Suzuki just rationalised part numbers on these.
Didn't feel right using them so luckily I've got some spare fork legs and pulled an old stud from one from these to use instead.
Now just got to sort a weeping front master cylinder cover that keeps spoiling the shiny paint finish around it. New cap and rubber seal fitted but still seeps a bit so looks like I'll need to dismantle it and check if the joint face is scratched and needs smoothing off.
Cheers,
Andy
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Generally accepted in engineering in a tapped hole. The depth of the thread engagement is approximately 1 times the nominal diameter in steel and 2 times the nominal diameter in aluminium. So a 8mm stud should have 16mm of thread into the aluminium.