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Messages - daz-j
1
« on: January 20, 2022, 08:16:42 PM »
Thanks everyone, pretty conclusive - looks like the mirrors (or at least the RH side one) will need to go back.
2
« on: January 20, 2022, 01:10:36 PM »
Hi all, I’ve just taken delivery of a pair of mirrors– the RH mirror has a LH thread, it doesn’t fit the thread in my bike’s brake lever which is RH. What thread is standard please? I’m trying to work out if my lever has been altered.
Thanks.
3
« on: January 15, 2022, 07:44:58 PM »
Just to report back I seem to have cured the problem  - I took the carb bodies to work and gave them a good blast with compressed air, fitted the new seals, and reset the float heights. So one (or a combination?) of these made the difference - my gut feeling is the float heights were the culprit. Thanks Alex and everyone, hopefully I won't need to take those carbs off again anytime soon!
4
« on: January 11, 2022, 09:10:22 PM »
Thanks Alex, yes I have checked the float heights previously but I'm thinking maybe under-estimated how accurate they need to be, so will be revisiting that when I reassemble the carbs with the new O rings that arrived today (thanks Julie).
Really interesting to read the viewpoints on carb balancing thank you. I've bench sync'd previously before refitting, pretty confident that I did it correctly but will go through it carefully again and report back.
5
« on: January 10, 2022, 12:04:45 PM »
Hi Alex, apologies for butting in with an extra question but you beat me to it, I was going to ask advice for very similar issues - in my case the engine starts easily but isn't stable when idling - the revs can randomly increase up to ~3-4000, or decrease to the point of stalling, without any throttle input. Hopefully we can learn together and crack the problems!
I've taken the carbs off a few times now (the joys!) to clean and recheck things - all appears to be ok to the best of my knowledge. When refitting I've rechecked valve clearances, timing, pilot air screws, vacuum leaks, carb balance - again all seem ok but the issue persists.
So the carbs are off again - I'm slightly suspicious of seals I fitted previously so have just ordered a kit from Julie to replace them. General advice welcome, but my main question for the forum at this point is what are the worthwhile checks for me to do whilst the carbs are stripped and on the bench please?
6
« on: May 31, 2021, 06:08:53 PM »
Hi Roy, I think there should be a 'report item' link actually on the listing somewhere
8
« on: March 03, 2021, 06:17:56 PM »
Thank you for the advice, I'm thinking my preference is probably to go for the rebore option, but nothing is straightforward at the moment – there’s only one engine machine shop that I know of locally, they seem to be well regarded but unfortunately are closed due to Covid. Others further afield do seem to be open though, will have to give it some thought.
Regarding a new set of pistons, is a rebore to suit 0.5mm oversized pistons the standard practice? I’ve seen Cruzinimage recommended on here before, but didn’t realise until today that they’re US based, unless there’s a UK outlet I'm missing?
9
« on: March 02, 2021, 09:21:54 PM »
Hi all, I'd be grateful for a little advice please on assessing the condition of the cylinders, as I have no previous experience of this. I've measured all 4 bores, each in 4 positions. Each one sizes up the same, slightly oval at 51.03-51.05mm - so to my understanding that's within the service limit.
All have what I would say is light scoring, which can be felt with fingernail - the photo below is probably the worst case.
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Would this be regarded as acceptable condition, a candidate for re-honing, or even reboring?
Thank you.
10
« on: February 25, 2021, 08:06:37 PM »
I got a front guard Fromm DSS not a bad price I thought. My Australian delivered bike only has three bolt holes standard .
Hi yes a front one is on my shopping list as well, there seems to be more availability for that one; the rear one is discontinued on DS. I'm mulling over buying the rear one, or maybe both of them, from here: https://www.wats-motor.com/index.php/cPath/34_163
11
« on: February 24, 2021, 05:33:24 PM »
Hi all, I need to source a rear mudguard, I'd be happy with a decent aftermarket one but sources seem to be limited at the moment, and prices a bit steep - I'm sure until quite recently you could pick one up on ebay for about £80.
Can anyone recommend a supplier please?
Also some that I've come across only have 3 bolt holes rather than 4 for the tail-light bracket, which I'm thinking isn't UK standard but would only require a small mod to the bracket? Has anyone gone for this option?
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12
« on: January 05, 2021, 06:16:25 PM »
To my experience, the straight caps work better for Cyl 2 and 3. I get a weird bend in the plugwire when using an angled cap.
Those are SD05F (instead of the XD05F).
Cyl 1 and 4 take the VD05F.
Hi thank you, I did wonder about that - even though the Honda routing diagrams show all the caps to be angled, whether straight would be better for 2&3. In the end I ordered the angled ones, and 2m of HT lead to play with, aiming to remount the coils backwards as previously discussed.
13
« on: January 02, 2021, 06:49:29 PM »
Just wondered. That fitting was pretty standard in 60s and 70s on British cars and bikes with Lucas type coils.
Had a few late 70's Fords and Minis back in the day (wish I still had them!) but don't recall ever having to make up HT leads.
14
« on: January 01, 2021, 04:29:22 PM »
Back to original post... those HT leads aren't male connectors, that's the copper wire left sticking out. Cut the HT lead straight across the end and then screw it into the coil fitting. The coil screw should line up with the copper core to make the connection.
Just out of interest, how old are you Darren? 🤔
Hi thanks, I'd dug a bit deeper and come to that conclusion, I'm 54 next month but new to motorcycles.
15
« on: December 30, 2020, 06:42:05 PM »
Cheers Dave, I was intending to buy from them, I'd seen a previous recommendation on this forum I think - thanks for confirming the part numbers.
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