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Messages - AndyD
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226
« on: June 08, 2020, 10:48:56 AM »
Hi,
Are the 550 and 400 petrol tanks interchangeable?
Cheers
Andy
227
« on: June 03, 2020, 10:36:39 AM »
Again, thanks everyone, really appreciate all advice and encouragement
Had a day or two away from the bikes - fixing leaky guttering and damaged fascia on house so a real treat!
The 400 is sitting in the naughty corner of the garage thinking about her dreadful behaviour and I'll have a calm look again in a few days.
As Bryan notes there isn't much that can be 'wrong' really - just frustrating, especially having fitted new float needles from DS which actually seem to leak more than the old ones!
Steve - the work you do to run the forum and keep it ad-free etc. is really valuable and appreciated.
I certainly won't be going away anytime soon and will detail the 900 restore.
Cheers,
Andy
228
« on: June 01, 2020, 09:45:37 AM »
Thanks all.
Julie - unbelievably kind offer
Bryan - likewise very kind
To be fair I always knew it was 50:50 with this bike as she had clearly had a very hard life and everything was tired, worn, damaged or replaced with non-original bits.
I set myself a target of getting her together and running and then assessing if worthwhile going for a fuller restoration with all the associated costs and time.
She is now in one piece (less tank / seat) and does start and run easily but the carbs yesterday were a real John Cleese moment when i could happily have beaten the little bugger around the garden with a branch.
The issue is that having a cold look at the bike she still needs a huge amount of work to get near where I would be happy with her and I think realistically it's simply a bad 'base' to start from with the amount of bits needed.
Will take a bit of time to decide what to do with her and in the meantime busy with the CB900 and CJ250t (don't laugh) restorations - both very original, low mileage bikes but needing severe tlc.
Cheers,
Andy
229
« on: May 31, 2020, 02:47:40 PM »
Hi all,
It's been great fun working on the 400 but decided today that she's not going to get any more money or time spent on her as she clearly doesn't want to play along!
Bought her as a basket case with some (odd) work already done and wasn't really sure if she was original / complete / sound enough to warrant investing time and effort but thought I'd give it a go.
The plan was to get her up and running and assembled without spending too much and this has gone reasonably to plan.
If she ran and sounded good I thought I'd then treat her to the pretty bits and a second round of restoration including chrome, paint, etc. etc.
Enjoyed rebuilding the engine and she runs up well enough despite being only 'roughly' tuned on the bench but the final straw has to be the carbs - after many checks, tweaks and resets and new DS parts they still leak like a holed bucket as soon as the fuel is turned on and I don't have the heart to do much more on them.
Just deciding whether it's best to sell together or break for parts - probably more value in parts but always a shame and I guess takes a lot of time to clear the whole lot. Any views on this from experience?
The best thing about doing this one has been this forum - really nice, helpful people who clearly love the bikes they own / work on.
Cheers,
Andy
230
« on: May 27, 2020, 12:57:23 PM »
Checked the tap and it's definitely a 20mm x 1.5mm thread on the tank.
After a long Google I can find these on US eBay but nothing over here.
Maybe the tank is off a totally different model - wouldn't surprise me as everything on the bike has been 'modified'.
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Might have to get one from the US or try to fix the old one but it's missing all O rings and an internal washer thingy as well.
Cheers,
Andy
231
« on: May 24, 2020, 04:12:25 PM »
Thanks Gareth
Wemoto show one at a reasonable cost but it says 16mm which I wanted to check is corrector if there are different size fittings as the tub3 on my tank is around 19 / 20mm thread
Cheers
Andy
232
« on: May 24, 2020, 11:59:06 AM »
As with every other part on this poor old bike the fuel tap has been abused and bodged - O rings etc. missing, all joints and threads 'sealed' with tape / goo.
Thought it might be easier to get a cheap tap on ebay instead of trying to resurrect the old one but they all show 16mm in the description while the thread on the tank is more like 19 / 20mm.
Does the 16mm refer to inside diameter or something or do i need to keep looking for a tap with correct larger thread?
Cheers,
Andy
233
« on: May 24, 2020, 11:55:53 AM »
Interesteing to see what DSS says - I bought the Keyster repair kits (marked KH-0147A and for CB400F) last week and the needles are also all marked D22.
I didn't check the markings on the ones already in the carbs though.
I haven't used them yet as I just really needed the float valve bits initially (might need more work once bike runs a bit but fingers crossed).
It seems odd that nobody can make aftermarket parts like this very well - surely they aren't particularly advanced manufacturing processes etc.
Cheers,
Andy
234
« on: May 21, 2020, 03:21:32 PM »
Thanks,
I've got a new airbox and rubbers from DSS as I think the old one was indeed a bit deformed and knackered.
Preparing to re-fit the carbs and have a few questions to make sure I don't get anything wrong...
Inside the airbox, I wanted to check which way round the rubber / sleeve connector bits fit - attached photo shows the bits I mean - the oval rubber and galvanised 'sleeve'.
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Also, I noticed in the Haynes manual it says to remove this galv sleeve, then the airbox and finally the carbs themselves in the dismantling section - is that what people do and if so is fitting a reversal of this, i.e. fit the carbs to the engine stubs, then squeeze the airbox in and connect up?
Cheers,
Andy
235
« on: May 17, 2020, 07:29:16 PM »
Softened the rubbers and 'forced' the airbox and carbs onto the bike to check she runs but not happy how things fitted so looking to sort this.
The rubbers to the head seem fine so I think I'll leave these (wintergreen softened them really well and have new O rings ).
The airbox and rubbers to the carbs are a different story!
Rubbers softened up OK but are a bit beaten up so will be replaced.
Fitting the carbs the rubbers just wouldn't go over the carb stubs fully so for testing fixed these 'just' onto the stubs.
Even with the rubbers short on the stubs (middle two especially) the joint to the filter box just seems too short - if I pull it back the carb rubbers don't reach.
Any idea if there were different airboxes / rubbers which could have been mixed up or is this maybe that the airbox is misshaped.
DSS have the airbox and rubbers in stock but I don't want to buy one if the same problem is likely.
Cheers,
Andy
236
« on: May 17, 2020, 07:20:41 PM »
Hi,
Mine is a 1975 and the loop does just hold the exhaust, footrests on the swingarm.
Whether this is normal / correct or not I have no idea - the bike came as a basket case and she has had a very hard life by the look of it.
Every part has been beaten, bodged or replaced so nothing surprises me!
The frame had been powdercoated already so can't see if there are signs of modification to the frame though.
Hopefully once I get a silencer it'll fit OK somehow.
Now the bike runs I'll have loads of questions on bits to sort properly so hopefully won't bore everyone too much.
Cheers,
Andy
237
« on: May 17, 2020, 04:01:22 PM »
Thanks Graham,
Looks ideal - 3 days to go so hopefully stays a reasonable cost.
Cheers,
Andy
238
« on: May 17, 2020, 10:28:38 AM »
Thanks all,
The bolted option would be much more useful now when original silencers aren't easily available - I guess making up different hanger brackets would be a neat and quite easy solution rather than relying on the bits that come with the universal silencers.
Honsa - do you have a link to this silencer please - the only one I can find is the Classic Bike Shop universal 'Dunstall' style one or is that the one you meant?
The Classic Bike Shop one is the one Mick noted earlier and does look quite a good option so I may give this a go as cost is reasonable as well.
Cheers,
Andy
239
« on: May 16, 2020, 03:18:06 PM »
Excellent, thanks Julie,
I think it may just be a matter that the fixing lug on the real silencer sits under the bracket but the rusty lump I'm looking at wouldn't sit in line that way with the fixings it has.
Is the exhaust bracket a bolted item on your bike - as photo below mine has a loop with welded bracket.
I guess I might have to gamble on one of the universal silencers and find a way to fix it as best possible until I can get a replica one if they reappear.
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Bit of an assessment stage now as I got the bike running the other day having slung it together quickly - now deciding how much to do / spend on her.
Cheers,
Andy
240
« on: May 16, 2020, 11:48:21 AM »
Thanks all,
Can't find anyone showing replica 400/4 silencers available but I have left messages to see if they are aiming to re-stock on these.
The temporary silencer I bodged on for testing is I think a Dunstall or very similar as the measurements are the same as shown on the Classic Bike Shop website.
There are a few options for these available but I'm a bit concerned how / if they would fit as the one I've put on clashes with the exhaust loop / bracket on the frame.
Not sure if I've put something on wrong with the headers but can't see adjustment would make a lot of difference.
Does anyone have some clear photos showing the silencer position / fixing relative to collector etc. so i can see if there's something obvious I'm missing please?
Cheers,
Andy
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