This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Messages - daz-j
16
« on: December 27, 2020, 05:54:35 PM »
Thank you for the replies so far, I appreciate the help. I'm in the middle of restoring the bike which was in a bit of a sorry state when I bought it, very much a 'project'.
I've stripped and rebuilt the engine & carbs, and it's now running but it's not 100% happy. The ignition system mostly appears to be in good order, but the plugs and leads have all seen better days so are obvious candidates to be replaced first, hence my initial questions. The coils are TEC ZC006 which I believe are working ok, so I would prefer to keep them provided I can make compatible leads. The suggestion to remount them facing backwards sounds like a good tip thank you.
So D8EA plugs appear to be the consensus so far? It looks to me that the 2 types of caps available from DS are actually just the same thing in different colours, both 5K ohm resistance, which seems strange when the only plugs they stock are 'R' type?
17
« on: December 26, 2020, 05:58:22 PM »
Hi and happy Xmas everyone, I'm going to treat the 400F to a set of new spark plugs, caps & HT leads - not as straightforward as I imagined! I've read several posts about plug types, 'R' plugs, resistor caps, don't mix them, etc, but I can't track down an accepted best solution - is there one please? I notice DS stocks only NGK DR8ESL 'R' plugs, but 2 types of NGK caps - are they all compatible?
Also I've never had to make HT leads before (1st bike project, it's a lot easier with cars!) - the coils on the bike have what I would call a male conductor fitting:
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]
but so does all the HT cable I can find for sale, eg:
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]
Again, are they compatible? Is there a thread that covers best practice for making leads please?
Apologies for the newbie questions!
Darren.
18
« on: October 11, 2020, 06:37:55 PM »
Had a reply from Honda Customer Service on Friday saying the original colour code was R-25, which I believe is Light Ruby Red, so that's the colour I'll be going with. Thanks again everyone for the advice.
19
« on: October 08, 2020, 09:00:50 PM »
Thank you, I've done that and will report back when i get an answer.
20
« on: October 08, 2020, 07:57:44 PM »
It's an R reg, and the V5 says date of 1st registration is 01/02/1977. It seems the bike is suffering more of an identity crisis than I first thought!
21
« on: October 08, 2020, 06:44:48 PM »
Hi thanks for your help, the VIN is 1070617, engine number 1066456.
22
« on: October 07, 2020, 10:33:19 PM »
Thank you, but confused sorry - the frame number starts with a 1 so my understanding was that makes it an F model?
23
« on: October 07, 2020, 08:52:01 PM »
Hi all, hoping it's ok to tag onto this thread as my question is linked to AndyD's original one.
The photo is of my '77 400F as it was when i bought it, resplendent in it's turquoise tank and black side panels. I can't find any trace of original paint, and the V5 says it's silver! As I understand it the options would have been the same as AndyD's machine - light ruby red or varnish blue. Is there a way to trace what the original colour would have been from the frame number or other method?
Regards, Darren.
24
« on: March 26, 2019, 08:09:44 PM »
Hi all, the discussion seems to support Greg65's original point. I was previously a member on a BMW E30zone car forum which had a 'Wiki' section – articles written and verified by the more knowledgeable members that documented an agreed way of doing particular tasks. As a beginner I would welcome such a section on here. I guess maybe that was the intention of the Aladdin's Cave? The E30zone Wiki had 100's of articles and I think many were written by taking the important points from previous threads on a particular subject. It was also the 1st place to look before posting a question and so saved a lot of repetition.
25
« on: March 15, 2019, 08:18:01 PM »
Diagram attached, pretty sure it's correct but would appreciate if someone would verify it please. Presuming it's right I'm only 6 bolts short!
26
« on: March 13, 2019, 07:44:17 PM »
Thanks for the replies and advice, its probably just me but I was hoping there was a clearer diagram of the bolt positions, so I might make one and post it back here. We use heli-coils quite regularly at work; I must admit I've never heard of Time-Sert's before but from a quick search they come highly recommended - will need to sus out if there's enough material in the casting around the holes. Thanks again, Darren.
27
« on: March 12, 2019, 07:54:59 PM »
Hi all, hoping someone can point me in the direction of a good diagram showing the correct arrangement for the rocker cover bolts please, ie the correct length and grade of bolt for each location (23 of them if I'm counting right!). It's not easy to decipher from the workshop manual diagram.
Mine are a complete dog's dinner - a mixture of different lengths plus a few cross-head machine screws and some missing altogether. This is partly because some of the M6 holes in the cylinder head are stripped - are helicoils ok for dealing with these?
Many thanks, Darren.
28
« on: January 10, 2019, 08:11:16 PM »
Hello all I'm Darren, I've been reading great posts on the forum for a while and thought it was about time i took the plunge! I'm early into a 400F project, my first motorcycle restoration of any kind. The bike is a '77 (R) which if i manage to attach a photo you'll see needs a lot of tlc, though it was a runner when I bought it. Currently stripped, frame powder coated, just about to send hubs for vapour blasting, then likely a large bill from David Silver to get back to rolling chassis.
I'm in Burnley so would be great to hear from local owners, if only to remind me where all the bits go!
Looking fwd to learning and hopefully contributing.
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]
Best regards, Darren.
|
Show Posts