Honda-SOHC

As I initially set the timing statically I thought I would do a check of it dynamically as it takes quite a bit of cranking from first start when cold to run. Once it has run it starts pretty easily - it could of course just be a fuelling issue or compression related but I'm thinking the timing might be a tad retarded.
I checked Cylinders 1 & 4 first I had to guess the engine RPM as the rev counter is not connected at the moment, on what sounded like around 1200 rpm the F 1.4 mark aligned nicely. When I tried the 2 & 3 moving the connector onto plug 2 the marks were pretty much out of view.

The Dynatek instructions state:- "The engine can also be timed dynamically using a strobe light in the normal manner.
Use the advance marks and an engine speed of about 2500 RPM (full advance)."

When I tried this again guessing the RMP as 2500 - roughly double the engine idle speed. The 1 & 4 marks lined up to the right of the F marks were there are two close together marks.

Am I right that the 2 & 3 timing must be out as it should be showing as per 1 & 4 except showing 2 & 3 marks with the strobe?
Reading my Haynes Manual is more confusing as it talks about "The two advance marks are on either side of the static mark"?

Suggestions are welcome please. Ted

For some reason when I bought my Honda the chain and rear sprocket were amongst a box of loose parts.
The sprocket shows signs of wear so I will fit a replacement - looking at where it fits I can see the output shaft from the gearbox has a sort of square/hex type spline to it but how does the gear attach to the shaft as its a narrow gear with a square/hex  type splined fitting.

The Haynes Manual shows a plate with a couple of screws that fit into the gear but what keeps it in position on the output shaft as the area seems quite wide is there some sort of end lock nut?

To fit a new gear do I have to remove the left had side plate thingy?

 Now that my little engine has run I'm turning my mind as to how far to go with an engine strip / down rebuild.
My original thought was to remove the cylinder head for valve grind, valve stem seals if they have them and checking piston tops etc.
That got me thinking about stuff like crank oil seals etc if they have them.

Without going OTT on cost what do folk here do in terms of knowing how far to go with a rebuild - any pointers / advice  as to essentials whilst the engine is out sought here. I will have to strip the clutch as the plates are bound to be stuck plus I am not in a situation to know if the gearbox is in good condition. If the piston tops look good I'm not keen to remove them unless its essential as part of the rebuild

I'm not afraid of the work involved more of an eye on cost and time involved in engine / gearbox strip downs.

There's me thinking along the lines of OEM decided NOS must be the Japanese equivalent of "Blueprint" or "Quinton Hazel" then the penny dropped or should that be Yen clanged to the floor.

Not sure where to post this question so as I have a CB400F2 I thought here is a good start.

I've seen a few CB400 fours on e-bay with alloy wheels presumably from a later model - I don't think they suit but can understand why someone might fit them.

Personally I like the period spoked wheels but was curious if fitting alloy wheels is a cheaper option than having existing spoked wheels refurbished.

If I had to choose between retaining original but imperfect spoked wheels and fitting alloys I would be faced with a conundrum. As yet I have no idea how much a pair of decent reproduction spoked wheels with SS spokes would cost.

I'm hoping my petrol tank will clean up okay - "hoping for the best but planning for the worst". That got me looking at the DS replacement option a hefty £282 in primer.

I seem to think I have read somewhere on this site someone having issues with the quality of the fit to the original mountings is this the case or was it a one off ?

Okay so here is my Honda CB400F2 purchased via e-bay from a local seller who unfortunately knew they fetch fair money so it was no bargain at £2000 as a thrown together to sell bike- looked good in the sale pictures. It came with a box of new parts with invoices spanning just over 10 years of accumulation. The box of new parts had a retail list price of just over £300 with some new or good used parts already fitted. As it was quite local I did go and look at it before I ended up buying it as it was the only one I had found that wasn't at the other end of the UK or out of my price range (Optimistically set at £1000-1500).

The seller declared that he bought it from a relative some 12 years ago with a rattling cam chain - he lost interest when he bought a Harley so by the time he got round to fixing the Honda ill health had prevented him from biking again so he decided to sell the unloved Honda.

It does crank over on the kickstart with reasonable compressions - certainly enough to get it running before the full rebuild ahead.

When I bought my Honda the original 4 into 1 front pipe & collector box came loose with it but no silencer - chrome work is not bad but there is a bit of a scuff/dent on one of the original looking pipes.

The bike was fitted with what looks like a complete Motad (RIP) system that is almost as new.
There is only one exhaust clamp fitted with very little in the way of space to fit a normal clamp on the remaining pipes. Not sure how Motad intended them to seal - some sort of super cement ??

I guess the purists would cringe at the arrangement but it will have to do methinks. Whilst waiting for the fuel pipe I ordered today I will do a bit more cleaning of the fuel tank. Picture shows the bendy route that the front pipes take.