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Messages - McCabe-Thiele (Ted)
Pages: 1 ... 406 407 [408] 409 410 ... 419
6106
« on: October 05, 2020, 11:32:56 AM »
Hi Al,
Yes I am serious about going for gold alloy rims but it's going to be early new year I think before I decide to have them or come to my senses and have silver alloy instead. With my hubs being original alloy with patina it's a conundrum.
My BiL has recommended Central Alloy so I will speak with Richard nearer the time. Do Central Alloy have the measurements for the original wheel offsets when they build them or do you have to specify?
Cheers
Ted
6107
« on: October 05, 2020, 11:15:59 AM »
 Nice one !
6108
« on: October 05, 2020, 10:54:31 AM »
Welcome home and thanks for starting the forum in the first place!!
I ditto the above plus of course credit to the current forum master & moderator(s).
6109
« on: October 05, 2020, 10:40:25 AM »
I've got the clutch basket out now and am wondering if I ought to replace the friction plates regardless of condition?
The only marks I can see are very slight surface imprints of the clutch discs on the plates - no grooves or anything. Looking through the receipts I got with the bike no sign of any clutch parts having been purchased by the last owner though it has clearly been dismantled before due to the damaged lock nut.
To my surprise the clutch was not stuck either the operating cable is in very poor condition so this may have been the reason it seemed to have poor travel with no real feel.
The friction material doesn't look worn but then I don't know how meaty they are when new.
What's the views here replace it anyway together with the springs ?
Is there a better brand than DS ?
6110
« on: October 05, 2020, 10:08:12 AM »
I must of done thousands of clutches over the years and my tool box has never had a locking tool in it.
All you need is four washers. Put the springs back in place and put 4 x M6 washer that is wider than the spring on the bolts and put the bolts back in. This locks the clutch up to remove the nut with the correct tool and replace the tagged washer 
Thanks Trigger clutch came out a treat tbh I don't think it was very tight so that helped.
6111
« on: October 04, 2020, 09:48:39 PM »
Obviously this is not as it left the factory slightly chewed clutch basket retaining nut with iffy locking tabs. I guess a special tool is the best option to undo and more importantly tighten up again. Is there a trick to stop it turning - is the DS Tool the thing to use?  Clutch nut by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr
6112
« on: October 02, 2020, 06:26:36 PM »
Not really done much since I've had the engine running, as the clutch will need to be stripped down & replaced I thought I would see if the casing screws wanted to come out. Removed the brake pedal & kick start for full access - just needed to find out if there were going to come out or not. The plan is/was simple go round getting each one undone then hand tighten ready for when I drain the oil & remove them all.
Tried by hand - got nowhere so got out my Kielder 1/2" drive impact driver with a new long JIS bit fitted via my hex adapter. They have all come out with ease. Only loosened them a few turns then nipped them up by hand ready for oil drain and strip down hopefully over the next few days.
My nightmare experience back in the mid 1960's of removing similar screws on my Honda 250 Dream with a hammer & chisel or drilling them out are now history. RESULT.
6113
« on: October 02, 2020, 01:38:10 PM »
As I understand it Trigger no longer does engine rebuilds but concentrates on rebores & the like.
6114
« on: October 02, 2020, 09:44:52 AM »
Back in the 1960's I had access to a Tricoethylene Tank at the garage where I worked part time - I used to put engine blocks in it and leave it over the weekend. On a Monday it looked like a brand new part fresh out of the foundry - all bare metal.
I believe health & safety have pretty much banned them due to carcinogenic issues.
On Nurse Julies 400 project posts she mentions an acid stripper I'm sure she will tell you the what & where if you PM her.
6115
« on: October 01, 2020, 10:24:20 PM »
That might explain my timing light giving odd results, I was surprised to find that the induction clip had an arrow for direction of current flow presumably.
6116
« on: October 01, 2020, 10:19:44 PM »
I love the alloy rims I'm considering those but I fancy gold coloured ones - I think I have an obsession about gold alloy wheels from the 1970's era. Hence the rims on the wifes Merc.  SL with Green Hood by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr
6117
« on: October 01, 2020, 06:32:11 PM »
That looks a very clean Honda 400 what needs rebuilding ?
Is that a US model with the chrome rear lamp bracket and black indicators?
6118
« on: October 01, 2020, 05:19:45 PM »
You can, or at least could, apply for a log book as not the current keeper but you had to wait for DVLA to write to the "registered" person telling him that somebody had applied for one and did he mind, they then waited about 6 weeks and if no reply issued the V5
I did not know that - makes sense really when vehicles move within the trade and V5's get lost.
6119
« on: October 01, 2020, 05:17:09 PM »
if I understand you correct, yes, 2-3 timing is out
When checking 1-4 you connect to cable/plug 1 or 4
when checking 2-3 you connect to cable/plug 2 or 3
Do it first for idle - F mark
Then check with 2500, you should see it ideally in the middle of double mark. If you have first set F at idle for both 1-4 and 2-3, then it must be the same for 2500 RPM for both, as this is managed by advancer (springs). It cannot be be different, unless there is some issue in strobe pickup in higher RPMs.
I re-checked the static timing again on both 1-4 then 2-3 they are spot on by my eye / lamp co-ordination. Then I realised that I had been connecting the plug lead clip to number 2 rather than number 3 cylinder (does that matter?)- the dynamic timing marks were spot on for both 1-4 & 2-3. I'm thinking it's either my strobe or possibly an issue with the coil connection at number 3 lead or its the idiot at the end of the timing light. (me) As the Carbs have not been synchronised or the air screws altered since I did the bench build on the carbs I will do a compression test in the morning just for peace of mind. I saw no point in spending time on the carb balancing etc as it's going to be stripped down soonish anyway.
6120
« on: October 01, 2020, 02:24:20 PM »
Why is there no V5 how can the seller prove he even owns it, has a legitimate title to the bike, that it is not stolen or an insurance write off ?
No rear photo showing a registration mark?
The V5 is not proof of ownership it is a log of registered keepers I have bought and sold vans and bikes without them.
I am the registered keeper of my sisters car but not the legal owner and I have recently bought a Transit tipper it is registered with a building firm but I am the legal owner.
A bill of sale is all thats needed.
Agreed but you can't apply for a duplicate log book if you are not the current keeper - DVLA will not easily disclose keeper details (unless your a private car park parasite chasing an unpaid ticket) so you can contact the last registered keeper. How do you break this circle and get a V5 ? DVLA & police advice is pretty firm that you should not purchase a vehicle without sight of the V5 in the name of the owner/keeper and are in receipt of the V5C/2 New Keeper Section. This is without even thinking about stuff like folk who get a Log Book Loan and then sell a vehicle or when there is outstanding finance etc. As a retired Custody Sergeant I am only too aware of the dishonesty that is out there.
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