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Messages - McCabe-Thiele (Ted)

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6136
CB350/400 / Re: Clutch operating camshaft thingy - worn or normal?
« on: October 10, 2020, 01:47:24 PM »
They have not been available for years. PM Julie as i will have some somewhere.

I've measured them up they are 10 mm bearings - my brother should have some that size - if not I will contact NJ. Thanks

Not sure about the O ring its a small critter do you know the size by any chance?

6137
CB350/400 / Re: Castellated Clutch Nut - how tight ?
« on: October 10, 2020, 01:44:54 PM »
Thanks guys that very helpful. I'll nip the nut up when my new torque wrench arrives my old Britool Torque wrench is a good 50 years old but the scale starts at over 30 lb ft so decided to treat myself to a lower range wrench that I will need for cylinder head bolts etc.

I had the Britool recalibrated a good 30 years ago when it was fitted with a new spring - I always undo the adjuster so there is no tension at rest. Sadly I tend to use impact torque sticks on our 4 wheeled vehicles - its just so easy!

6138
CB350/400 / Re: Clutch operating camshaft thingy - worn or normal?
« on: October 10, 2020, 10:09:45 AM »
The balls are in pretty poor condition not sure what size they are perhaps DS sells them.

6139
The learning dip......................

Having assembled the clutch unit I've started to realise that I'm not taking enough photographs as I dismantle things as I should. I think to myself its obvious how this fits - then a couple of weeks later I find myself wondering how it all goes together again.

In my youth I could strip down a Mini Cooper S engine & gearbox - change a synchromesh using the manual only for torque settings and the like! Not sure if it's my age or that more modern motor cycles engines are so much more compact.

I have two workshop manuals that came with the bike - I am finding that they seem to be written for folks who know what they are doing.lol 

Thank goodness for this brilliant site.

6140
CB350/400 / Clutch operating camshaft thingy - worn or normal?
« on: October 10, 2020, 03:14:22 AM »
At first glance I thought this was badly worn but looking at the part picture on DS it looks like its how they are designed!
When I reassemble it is there any point in packing it with grease or will the oil in the clutch somehow provide lubrication?




Clutch casing mechanism by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

6141
CB350/400 / Re: Castellated Clutch Nut - how tight ?
« on: October 10, 2020, 03:07:18 AM »
Can't say it's 100% but one of the manuals I have has these torque settings:
(Attachment Link)
So 30 looks ok.

Thanks Deano one of my manuals does not seem to say or calls it something else the other had a figure like your chart but it seemed a tad on the low side - I guess I'm used to torque figures on cars that tend to be somewhat higher. Also its out of range on my old Britool torque wrench.

6142
CB500/550 / Re: Ignition Key Number Location
« on: October 09, 2020, 09:45:35 PM »
Unfortunately, I can't get a key - because there's no number on the switch. I was hoping that the steering lock/seat lock key (which had visible same numbers) would fit, but no such luck

Ah I thought you were just trying to get one key to fit all - methinks you will need to buy a replacement switch.

6143
CB500/550 / Re: Ignition Key Number Location
« on: October 09, 2020, 09:25:18 PM »
If its like most of the older generation vehicular ignition key arrangements you need ideally remove the ignition switch, insert the correct key initially. Find the detent plunger on the switch casing insert a thin rod or a straightened paper clip. This should then enable the key to come out of the lock with the barrel attached. Some very sneaky ignition locks have the detent plunger hidden by a thin film of alloy casting that needs drilling out first.

Once the barrel is out you will see that the brass levers are all flush enabling it to turn in the switch. Remove the correct key & insert the one you want to use instead. With the wrong key inserted the brass levers/plates will protrude so it will not turn the lock - you file these flat to adapt it. Depending on how different your keys are might result in almost any key fitting the switch. This can be avoided on some locks by swapping the levers around - it can be a bit of a nightmare though as the small brass springs can all pop out - depends on how the levers are retained.

THis has worked for me on old car ignition  switches - I'm thinking bikes are not that different.

6144
CB350/400 / Castellated Clutch Nut - how tight ?
« on: October 09, 2020, 07:52:01 PM »
I've been looking for a torque setting for the above nut - does 30Lb-ft sound about right?

6145
That is as rough as a badgers a**e so probably a po mod

Flicker is down so at present better photo not available.

6146
I'm no expert but the one I recently installed none of them had that "Notch" , looks a bit ragged in zoom to be there by design , I stand to be corrected but looks like something's been forced in there!

Except for the narrower friction disc they all have the notch marking. Not the best (angled) photo  tbh but they are all marked the same I have arranged them so they are all notch/indentation  side out together so as to speak in the basket slots. The new DS clutch friction plates have the same markings.

6147
Yes Ted, that is correct. Have you fitted a new lock washer? as if you use the old one the tabs tend to snap off when you bend them over to hold the castellated nut.

Yes new lock washer the old one was a mess!

6148
Assembled the clutch basket today I have the flat edge of the plain metal discs facing the engine with the notch marked discs all facing outwards and together. The smaller friction disc is against the retaining clip. All looks good and now fitted to the bike, dished washer facing out, lock washer in position,

Just one question about the castellated lock nut - the old one was plain side out with the beveled side against the lock washer - facing the engine.

Is this the right way round before I fasten up and fit the springs etc?

6149
CB350/400 / Re: DSS replica seat
« on: October 09, 2020, 04:13:36 PM »
Thanks all. It turned out to be the rubber block hitting the rear frame bridge (the rear mudguard mounting point). I measured the new seat block against my genuine seat and it was 20mm thick, the genuine one is 7mm thick! I cut the appropiate amount off the new rubber block using a knife in-situ as I couldn't get the block off the seat, it would have destroyed the moulded bungs on the back of  the rubber block where they push into the seat base.  All now perfect :)
I have a buyer for the bike now, it will never be used as its going on display in his dining room! He's buying it as an investment as he doesn't even have a licence and has never ridden a bike before!

Sounds like the buyer has been watching too much Wayne Carini then again if he is young enough he will see a good return on his investment. It's interesting to watch where all this nostalgia thing for old stuff is heading - older generation buying things they wanted when they were younger and now having the dosh?

6150
CB750 / Re: Hondamatic bracket - where does it go ?
« on: October 09, 2020, 04:07:22 PM »
It sits between and the frame and the tank mounting rubber LH side.

I think that's the same place as the Honda CB400F2 - mine is missing - it might be in a box of odds & ends I got with the bike!

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