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Messages - McCabe-Thiele (Ted)
1
« on: Today at 10:03:45 PM »
Thanks Bryan.
2
« on: Today at 09:23:30 PM »
Thanks Bryan - a few minutes ago I took out the brake hub- removed the shoes - put it back into the wheel - torqued it up rotated freely - so it's just a very close fit - as it was when I first rode the bike.
The Shoes look like the DS ones they are marked SOK 283 .
Bryan I have never had a flap wheel so how are they sized can you post or PM me a link as to the size & grade I need please?
I assume they will fit a normal drill.
3
« on: Today at 08:37:17 PM »
Petrol floats in Diesel so it will probably soon soot up the plugs then start to misfire.
Anecdotal Story
It was a long time ago but an lovely Irishman (Keith Dunne) I worked with used to put diesel in his petrol car to save money as in the 1960's it was cheaper- he drove a Standard Vanguard - it would smoke like the clappers and eventually it seized up.
4
« on: Today at 06:40:21 PM »
Personally I would consider draining out the tank and start with new petrol - diesel is not good for the piston rings.
Not sure if the diesel will seperate out when standing or if the two hydrocarbons are compleltly miscible.
5
« on: Today at 12:43:30 PM »
Good point I'm going to get the fixed bearing fully home as it was before. I'm thinking the right side will move back out a little but not as far out as it was.
I understand the fixed bearing principle - the lock ring seems to have two functions. Securing the fixed bearing and holding the drive hub fully home.
Update:- I removed the lock ring (again) and using a drift with a good sized lump hammer the left side bearing is fully home. The hammer strike changed tone as it butted up to the recess. Drive hub and lock ring fitted back and it's fully tightened with no gap visible between the ring & hub face. Visually the right side bearing has moved out slightly but nothing like it was.
I now have a slightly different issue that existed before I stripped down the bike - some light binding. The rear brake linings have a very slight bind. I had to file the brake shoe ends where they pivot as there was no room for the top washer only the split pin. The brake shoes also appear to be a tad wider than what feels right when you fit the brake hub it's a difficult wiggle.
There is no free play in the brake shoe system. A very slight amount of lever movement in either direction applys the brakes. It's diffucult to pin down but it feels as if the binding is more like the side of the brake linings touching the inside of the hub.
From previous posts it appears that the original brake linings are no longer available so it's a bit of a raffle to get the correct ones. My next move is to see if a chamfer on the inside edge of the curved shoe might improve things. I think but am not sure that the hub has had a new steel lining fitted in the past.
I'm going to remove the brake shoes and re-fit the hub to be 100% sure it's just the linings causing the bind.
6
« on: Today at 09:18:23 AM »
Could be Dom, ill remove the brake hub and give it another thwack with the drift.
Update: The right hand bearing was not flush with the hub face - it did not want to knock in any further so I undid the lock ring on the left side and it's now flush with the face.
Now the lock ring is not fully against the drive hub so I guess I might need to tap the left side bearing a tad more from the left side.
Not sure if there should be a gap between the lock ring and the drive hub. Mine is probably about the thickness of a Junior hack saw blade between the lock ring and drive hub face .
7
« on: May 05, 2024, 08:20:32 PM »
I had a second wind this evening so with the rear wheel in position, no brake shoes binding, attached the brake anchor bar to the hub.
With the axle nut loose the wheel rotates freely, as I tighten up the axle nut the wheel is stiffer to turn so something must be amiss.
It will rotate by hand but with much more effort.
The axle shaft fits easily through the hubs etc no force needed.
The fixed bearing was fitted without issue with the small spacer and the long spacer in position
Right hand bearing knocked in easily.
Left & right spacers in the correct position.
I haven't as yet fully torqued the axle nut wtf is going on?
Is it possible that the right hand bearing is not full against the central long spacer so it might improve the situation at full tightness?
I can't seem to find a picture in the parts book for the fitting of the rear brake hub anchor parts or what way round the shouldered bolt should fit - is it with the split pin on the inside or facing out?
8
« on: May 05, 2024, 05:29:36 PM »
Nice photo of the Town Hall
Austria my birthplace.
9
« on: May 05, 2024, 12:11:38 PM »
10
« on: May 05, 2024, 12:02:08 PM »
I was told they were used to surpress radio interference back in the day.
11
« on: May 05, 2024, 11:44:36 AM »
I hold the view (probably wrongly) that cranks are not easy to bend when out of the engine.
I have always believed that a bent crank is generally associated with some sort of catastrophic engine failure such as a con rod tries to exit the block or casing.
Best of luck with finding the problem please keep us posted.
12
« on: May 05, 2024, 11:39:07 AM »
Plan C now used the DS retainer ring having fitted the different pins to my tool - tightened up nice and tight - all looks good
The 500 rear wheel when fully assembled felt so much heavier than the 400.
Seal fitted into the sprocket tin plate after fitting the left side spacer wide end to the bearing. Large O ring fitted to the hub all in place as per the parts exploded diagram. Spocket nuts nipped down with some new locking washers fitted.
I've done the first fit of the wheel - looking good - not torqued up the sprocket nuts yet or bent the locking tabs into place. I'm worn out now for today.
I'll tighten up the rear axle to check the wheel rotates freely before I fit the chain etc.
14
« on: May 05, 2024, 10:33:26 AM »
That type of plug cap was also fitted to the Opel Rekord (D) Coupes back in 1973 I was drivng one down to Cornwall for our sumer holiday when the car dropped onto 3 cylinders in heavy traffic. Being an automatic it was it was almost undriveable.
One of those caps had failed plus the leads were the then quite new carbon fibre type leads - I used a Nappy pin to replace the cap - it worked a treat.
15
« on: May 05, 2024, 10:22:07 AM »
550 and 500 same shape but later ones had a connector bit, the screwed in retainer does not have a seal, only the big tim pressed plate
So the seal fits into the sprocket cover plate Bryan not the retainer ring - that makes sense. It confirms what seablower said as well. I should have taken more photos and listned the first time!  PXL_20240505_084731863 by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr
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