Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => Project Board => Topic started by: onethumb on September 03, 2016, 10:49:25 PM
-
Thought I'd share my build with those who might be interested. I'll post more pics over the next week. This is how I bought it(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160903/f8633d558c5a2f0309b3266261d13d71.jpg). (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160903/3d4b0c151db0c72774a48bd08295a1cb.jpg)
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
The next day (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160903/6025ee15bb980d0a396a1022d812e20e.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160903/4dc67271360b54f70b02c6826951ee75.jpg)
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
Next engine out with great info from the forum.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160903/1d62770ec5c505272ed7d40bdbc7f09e.jpg)
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
Rebuild carbs(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160903/14d95cb0ded87b3265cd417fdedf5df0.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160903/caa26b08012c0a63feb55cb9a8db4e2f.jpg)
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
Start frame(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160903/867a8be92f457b072e8e5abc39c1adf0.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160903/09875d39b6c9220cc631a9eca43c0c1c.jpg)
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
idea starts (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160903/63b045e6d082c333d8d0e33cc04b3e7e.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160903/f44307b95ee1879cc071199dd9e39028.jpg)
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
Here's a Suzuki Gs done in scrambler style . Looks well
-
Thanks yozzer That's a nice look. I'm going for the same kinda thing.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
I've got a old Gs550.I'm going to do like that
-
Buddy if it's anything like the CB cafe racer you did it will be a bit special.
I look forward to its build.
Will you put the pics are up here or will we have to go to the dark side?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
Dark side .probably on do the ton forum have you been on there
-
Not yet but I'll make sure to check it out later today.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160906/0858a7e2fb825093268bc8419c795c28.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160906/90871415e227eec3c76593306735ad73.jpg)
This was my idea for the seat unit so I could keep the original tank. I used 3mm aluminium for the base the 1.5mm aluminium for the hump as it was easy to bend.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
I then tried to duraweld them but the 1.5mm melted so it was scrapped. So next. I used 3mm aluminium for the hump. This took a bit of bending. (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160906/85c4ec8ccf5bbff1c55ecd352b123692.jpg) . (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160906/6ff01da660067845b9cd9282f6053507.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Today I've fabricated an under seat storage space for the m-unit to be positioned and to tidy up the underneath.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160910/135dc608ee85c339313d65635baf20af.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160910/6634798946c791e1b34f04c74ae13a2a.jpg)
-
I made it using 1mm steel but had to make it in three sections due to the shape of the frame and the tube diameters.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160910/d2aefbfb422c0492a83cb81564c30f0a.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160910/80900920774167dca1b792017e64e69a.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Added some holes for the cables to be routed and now it's ready to go to the powder coaters next week.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160910/04daec1291af781b4345d038803444a7.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
You really need to make sure there's enough clearance for the wheel under there .have you taken springs off your shockers and lowered it down to the bump stops .that's how I checked mine for clearance .
-
I don't have much to add except it's looking mighty impressive. Keep up the good work.
-
Thanks roy appreciate the feedback. Good or bad, especially when building a one off.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
Yozzer thanks for the heads up, guess what I'm doing today on the frame?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
Right then folks, first off thanks to all the input I had over the the tyre catching. What a balls up that was.
After reading this site and the US sister site I'm going to be using 365mm shocks from the cb750 dohc to give me the look I'm after and give me a extra 30mm (people have said its a good swap)
So with that in mind I've marked the frame and then built this plate for the m-unit.
I've not welded it in yet as I thought I'd post the pictures so you could all have a look and let me know if I've missed anything or forgot something.
Thanks waiting in anticipation. (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160913/4a05ced7f9510142ae73b8a4147f078d.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160913/5529f31b8bb83ea2ab05f1a3ae236be9.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160913/3a0d054a8eaf7d29482538b5725c6747.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160913/0e006c8f5f56ec33c7bf576d297350ff.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160913/0aff2332dfbfc3decf0a8102cf14d481.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Looking good. The only problem I can foresee is that there is no way that tumble dryer will fit under the seat ;D ;D ;D
Joking aside, good luck with this version of the build, makes sense to start again and get it right.
-
How are you going to route your wires there and make it all look tidy .
-
Hi nurse Julie, the dryer is going in the sidecar I'm making next year. I had the foresight to think of that. Thanks though
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
Yozzer!!! Ahhhhhh!!! Ok back to the drawing board for some modifications, or a change of direction.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
Pmsl sorry Onethumb it's a headache.when we were doing mine .I would come up with a idea think it was great then realize it affected something eles .so back to drawing board .but I did have help off Paul at one off welding .
-
Well I seem to have the help of you and others on this forum
With the m-unit I'm also using the m-button so I won't have that many wires running up the frame, think I might run a plate across the front to hide some of the wires from sight. I was also thinking of running some of the wires inside copper pipe where and if possible making a feature out of it. I've loads of ideas but as already been proved that means nothing.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
Hi again. I've changed the plan and I've welded a bracket on to the back loop for the stop and tail light and number plate bracket. I've also welded a plate onto the inside of the loop for the seat unit.
Used my compressor and a bag of kiln dried sand and sand blasted the frame so its off to the powder coaters tomorrow.
Regarding the the m-unit I've made a bracket to fit over the battery carrier.
I know I've forgotten something but I'll cross that bridge when I get to it. (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161011/8768a5b899b648e08e55f890f41bcbf0.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Thats looking like a fun project, when you find solutions to problems it is so rewarding, i just love a good project
pete
-
Thanks Pete, it's been a learning curve but it means the next one should be a little easier. How's yours going?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
Well yozzer it's too late now. I've had the frame, swing arm and footrest hangers powder coated. Collected them today from Craig at parkfield electroplating in Wolverhampton they've done a top job and it was only £75. (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161021/e1f731b5b11010a48aaf1afd2b04f857.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161021/00768507076a3808d7960bbedd655b25.jpg)
Going to rebuild the swingarm over the weekend, bushes have been put to soak in oil. Now just need to remember how the heck it all goes back together.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
What you doing with wheel's
-
And tyres
-
Looked good in the flesh, too. Good to meet you today, Buddy. Given me some more ideas too.
-
Hi buddy, I've sand blasted them and sprayed them Matt black. Don't know what shoes to put on them yet. Ideas?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
Cheers pop. Hope that grinder serves you well. I'll be looking at your feed and seeing the new vigour thats going to put into the strip down.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
Small update. All wrapped up. Seat unit is going to the upholsterer on Tuesday need to decide between flutes or diamond stitching, any thoughts?(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161027/9091fc40d591b29d5c3fc9a6775ff2ce.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
I'm thinking of putting these bad boys on the old girl. (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161029/123d61037a9a7177e87d240b993d74f4.png)
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
Flutes for me, but a personal choice, that one. Neither is a bad call.
-
What size do they do them in
-
Do yo like the look of them buddy?
I've been advised to go for 100/90/19 front and 110/80/18 rears but they do a 120/90/18 but I'll be tight on the clearance. They are a tubed tyre though.
Yozzer if you've got 5 can you check if you're wheels are stamped tt for tube type or tl for tubeless. I'm down in London this weekend and I know I've the same wheels as you.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
I've got tubes in mine I'm wanting something like those for my Gs build how much are they
-
From £150 supply only. Been quoted £200 including tubes and fitting from a local garage in wolves.
Not the cheapest but they've got a great rep in the wet and dry.
-
What's the name of them
-
Conti tkc 80.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Well engine is in and the rebuilding has started. (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161104/3d1d252c0e2acb8fc69f2923d28d58a9.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161104/ff07b7a72313c954e4b34289db832167.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
I like the look of the engine, matt black and stainless, great contrast .
-
Agreed. Looking good, Steve.
-
I like that too.
-
Thanks guys. I've sourced all the bolts via eBay and local fastener company's, took a bloody while and found out today that I've missed one! The wheels are at the tyre place I've done them the same, matt black with the stainless nuts and bolts, so here's hoping it looks ok.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
Nice work what paint did you use on engine
-
Hi yozzer, it was Rust-Oleum Stove and BBQ Heat Proof Black paint, on the recommendation of members on this and the USA site. Went on a piece of cake.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
What's next job then have you bought the m unit yet
-
Off to Valencia for the last round of the GP on Wednesday so can't order anything till I get back so the m-unit is on hold till then.
Looked through my box of parts and I'd forgot the headstock bearings so that's the next thing along with the new tyres so I can move it around my very small garage.
How's your scrambler build?
The cafe racer looks the bizz.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
Got my tyres! Shame I can't put the front on as I'm still waiting for my order from ds for my headstock bearings.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161107/2cd1c731df5489c6d0a6a88f3286730a.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161107/65d1cadb285d4ba04fed21b8c40c8510.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
The treads look great, did you get the longer shocks? The clearance looks reasonable.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Looking good and the clearance does look good too
-
Thanks for the comments. Hi Alex I did go for the longer shocks, they are 365mm from cb750 DOHC so 30mm longer than the SOHC shocks. This was what a lot of people in the states said to go for. I'm really pleased with the look of the tyres just what I was after. Worth the extra £££s.
Yozzer, you'll be gad to hear I've now got 120mm from the top of the tyre to the lowest point on the frame so ripping all the metalwork out, changing the design and fitting the longer shocks has worked out. Thanks for the heads up about checking the clearance because I had completely missed it.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
Think you will have to set your chain a little slack with having longer shocks on .I've been reading about it
-
The tyre guy said the same. Don't know if to buy a new chain with a couple of extra links or go with the original and see how much slack I can get with it. Can you tell me where to look for some extra reading?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=70280.msg824432#msg824432
-
Read this thread it's quite good and on same lines as yours
-
Thanks buddy.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
To set the chain tension, remove shocks, pack wheel up until the centre of both sprockets and the swing arm pivot are all in one line as close as possible then tension chain to give just a small amount of slack (about 10mm) and tighten wheel.
Then put shocks back on, and measure the slack in the chain to give you an in use set point for future adjustment.
If you set it too tight with the swinging arm extended downwards then as you ride it, when the suspension compresses it will go to tight at its longest point and pull the hell out of the bearings, particularly the gearbox output one.
Build looks good by the way.
Tires look good, I've used them on lighter bikes (kdx250) on the road and they are pretty good but squirm quite alot with front brake use so may take a bit of care to get the feel of them if you've not ridden with them before especially with the weight you'll be carrying on this bike.
-
K2-K6 thanks for the kind words and the information. Just read the link Yozzer put up and it says the same, yours is a little easier for a first timer like me to follow.
I'm hoping that riding my 1998 XR250 on the road with mud tyres on will be good practice.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
Oops, I didn't see Yozzer's link, apologies for that. It's good to get it setup right though to avoid any problems.
As you've got there with the xr you get to make a bit of allowance for them as they aren't so precise as a road tire. Be interesting to see what you think of them on this bike when you've got it going.
Are you just going to ride it on the road or something a bit more adventurous with it?
-
It's for the road, maybe a trip to the beach and it might go on the grass when I park it at a show or something but the build was all about the bringing back an unloved bike that had been in a shed since 1998 and giving it a new lease of life. And in process teaching me a few things as well.
Thanks for the heads up about the tyres though, the bloke at the tyre shop said he'd had a lot of good feedback from these but this was the heaviest bike he'd heard of them being fitted too. Still nothing ventured nothing gained.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
Right then the fronts built up with the scrambler bars. I think I like them. (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161116/acb4435dd760706a971a31af92d811e8.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
It's coming on looking good
-
Cheers dude. Just got my seat back. I'm proper pleased.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
Pics then??
-
Sorry. Here you go. (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161118/7508568b66f31e60e307c0052fbf64d9.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Pmsl looks nice that did you have it made
-
Thanks dude. I made the base then had it covered professionally by a chap in Buckinghamshire, AJ trimmings. He's done it in leather for me. The flutes are at 1" 1/2 spacing all finished in black stitching.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
Like that.
-
Sorry. Here you go. (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161118/7508568b66f31e60e307c0052fbf64d9.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The seat looks great. I also like the bracket on the back of the hoop, is that for a tail light and number plate and will there be enough clearance between the bottom of the number plate and the wheel?. I'm asking because I'm trying to work out how to attach the light / number plate to the hoop on my 550 project.
-
Hi Julie. Thanks for the kind words. Well spotted, that's exactly what's it's for. I've had to bend the number plate bracket slightly upwards to get clearance but haven't tried it since I got the wheels on. I'll have a look tomorrow and see if I can put it on loosely and post a pick or two.
The bracket came about from that whole episode where I had to scrap all my other ideas due to tyre clearance. It's funny how these things sometimes turn out for the better.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Thanks dude. I made the base then had it covered professionally by a chap in Buckinghamshire, AJ trimmings. He's done it in leather for me. The flutes are at 1" 1/2 spacing all finished in black stitching.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
What type of foam did you use for the seat base mate? Need to make one up at some point and yours seems very good for a semi home job
-
Underdog1 the base is 3mm aluminium base plate then 2x1" upholstery foam which me and the upholstery guy fitted and shaped while I was there with the tank on the frame so we could see all the lines then when we were happy I left him to cover it.
It's the really dense foam that's made up off the off cuts then pressed an glued. Sorry don't know what it's called.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
Here you go nurse Julie. Hope this helps. (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161120/3b47191b7c39b6999fb591bedfc57def.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161120/df7a9b10200a70d98c724d4c2cac03d7.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Thanks for pic Steve. Yes, the plate and light fit on the hoop nicely. Difficult to tell properly from the photo but is the angle of the plate legal?. Now, don't get me wrong, I don't mind breaking the law but would be interesting to know if it would pass MOT rules.
-
Mine passed like this...
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161120/47c78713591015ac334d3f25ac9366f2.jpg)
But my bike is also tiny!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Nice bike Alex. Carpet in the garage. How posh. I've just got concrete and cardboard. ( that's not an invitation for the "you were lucky" monty python sketch to start)
I can always bend it down a bit if needed. (Not an innuendo)
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
Thanks :)
If only the garage door held any bloody heat in it would be alright in there!
The bike tucks away on the left and my treadmill and turbo trainer fit behind, it's the home gym too!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
To all those who've done a big 750 before what's the easiest order to go about the rebuilding from where I am now?
Here's the last picture.
Thanks.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161121/27a2655c1e63d3bf7c5c351de573938b.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
I would go carbs as there easy to get too at the moment then wiringloom and coils next
-
Cheers green1 it's what I was thinking but I've made that many mistakes so far that I thought I'd ask first.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
You won't know its wright if you don't get it wrong. ;)
Mick
-
Just popped the carbs in, and I do mean popped. Took me about 20 minutes in the end soaked the rubbers in boiling water and left for about 10 minutes. Thought I'd got them in a couple of times till I looked with the torch, then pop in they went, you do know when they're seated!
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161122/1f460b53c59c8809de266cf000c09087.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Have you got your m unit yet .
-
Not yet dude order is going in next week. Getting the m-button as well.
Did you go for a solid state regulator, if so which one and where from?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
Yes on the rr got it from m&p .my mates just bought the m unit & m button got it from digital speedos .best price I've seen on them .
-
Yep that's where I'm getting mine from. Thanks.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
It's here!!!!(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161204/b3dc3c9eb36a619442671c8ffaf28629.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Now the head scratching starts ;D
-
Dude, tell me about it. Apparently Excitement and fear are exactly the same the only thing that changes is your choice of which one you call it!
I don't know which one it is yet.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
Still waiting for the regulator from m&p. Need to draw up a plan.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
There are a few wiring diagrams on you tube tube for m units
-
Well I've sent my accelerator cables to Venhills to custom make a replacement to fit their 444 push/pull twist grip which I'd bought as a replacement to the O/E twist grip. There records only go back to1979!
Seriously I never new how much work went into these one off rebuilds. Kudos to all the home builders who did this before the help of the internet.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
Well people what do you think. Have I missed out something obvious here?
Before I drill, screw, bolt or even cable tie I want to run it past the many eyes here. Thanks (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161218/cb866e675628d109d94a339944a890f3.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161218/3af23c390e5da16dd08f64a43c665da8.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Starter solenoid I would put the reg rectifier underneath for best cooling on it
-
Thanks Yozzer I was going to put the solenoid in the original place but after what you've just said I'm thinking of swapping the two around, flattening the battery box and attaching the regulator to the box and put the solenoid on the tray. What's ya thoughts?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
If your keeping battery box I would keep them there you won't have to extend wires then
-
I'll get the grey matter looking at it again tomorrow. I'll be sure to put it out there when I do. ( never thought of the the heat from the regulator)
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
Ok so I've made a bracket and welded it to the side of the battery box for the regulator. What do you think?
With it like this I've got a load of room now for the m-unit and the wiring so that's made it an easy way to lift the tray to access the battery. (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161219/d9601ca7f382f77142f3b1e4a36b57b8.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161219/04136ac47c64788eafd97f39651625e5.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
It should get an adequate cooling draught by there.
-
Thanks Mike That's good news. I never thought about it to Yozzer pointed it out. As a result it's actually turned out a better idea.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
It's the same position as my GS650G, so it'll be fine.
-
Well now the real fun begins.
Original wiring from battery backs is in really good nick but the front part......wtf! (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161220/ed63f1a694972ec34757e7f0bdec0a7e.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161220/8566930bb845f124050f3e803467f4c1.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Need help already. So I bought a new solid state regulator from m&p (picture below). All the diagrams I can find show dohc regulator retro fitted. Can anyone help. I'm scratching my head.
Thanks.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161220/8180ade30571cb4fdf6754422763858a.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
3 x yellows are the ac windings on the alternator. Red and green are the pos and neg to the batt. The black and grey (white?) go the inside coil of the alternator, the excitor winding.
Hope this helps.
-
You won't be using any of the old harness will you ??
-
Hi Mike. Thanks for the reply. It's the black and white that I'm stuck with. Is there a diagram to explain what your saying as I'm still a bit lost. I got in touch with the manufacturer and they sent me this.
Red. Positive
Green. Ground
Yellow. Stator
Black. Original sence input for regulator
White. Field output for alternator
Hi Yozzer, nope it's all going. Completely new.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
Dunno what the original sense input is, sorry.
-
Hi Mike, thanks anyway. I'm going to email them again and ask them to send me a diagram.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
This is the last email I got from them
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161222/b51e79578c592801ebf3fc4608f5ecd6.png)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161222/12814442b6890f353c60311f06b9ea24.png)
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
It looks like it should also go to the battery, along woth the red, to sense the battery voltage - to measure if it needs charging or not. But that's only an educated guess.
-
Hi Mike and anyone else interested in this, I've found this online. Does this make sense to you? It seems to work on paper but this is way above my knowledge. Knew I should of sent more time on electronic systems. (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161222/4c57540c4577fd3aa49363777e1c590c.png)
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
That's what I said originally, those 2 wires go to the coil in the middle of the alternator. When the battery is low, a current is made to flow in that coil which then produces a magnetic field which makes the alternator churn out some more leccy (yellow wires). Because it's the back - and - fore type leccy, the rectititifier turns it into one way type leccy that the battery likes.
Sorry about all the technical jargon.
-
Ohh. Is that the flow field part of the stator?
Thanks Mike, I'll go in with a bit more confidence now.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
I like that explanation Mike.
Cheers me up in a gap from buying, fetching and planning stuff for Christmas. ;)
I don't think I'm in any danger of completing the list I've been given, there comes a point when you have to cut and run to the alcohol. I justify that as categorising it officially under tidying up. Well somebody's got to make a start on it.
Now where did I leave those "eat me" dates?
-
Venhill custom made cables. Loverly bit of kit. (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161223/6553317a909e3ba415f829af0a209efc.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
With original wiring the plug goes in place of the rectifier and the two loose wires go to two out of the three regulator wires, the third one being an earth that is no longer used. The sense wire is an ignition switched live.
-
With big help from people on here, the wiring of the beast has begun. Every time I think I understand it it kicks me in the face. Starting to slowly get now. I think. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170124/40e456d4d8340bc97644627bf04104cd.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Regarding the wiring I'm using a m-unit and m-button but after market switch gear.
The switch gear I'm using has three wires for the lights, dip main and a common as do the indicators left right and common and two wires for the horn. My issue is I don't know where the common wires go. I know they are live.
A wiring diagram if anyone has one would help. Thanks for looking.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170128/0d37bc7506ce357e0127fba402fcb1cc.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
If you look on mr t build thread he put a wiring diagram on for the m unit . May help you out
-
Thanks buddy but it was no good for my set up.
For those who are interested after a lot of trial and error the common is the live that goes to the m-unit.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
Well a late one tonight. I've wrapped the exhausts that took an age.
These 4-1 exhaust systems are a bit of a pig to fit though. Anyway it's another job done. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170214/01344c79f088293f9fe875aa6a2df615.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170214/173d81f5b20e38d6671a0dc3d2ff022f.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Ok, stupid question time..........why do you bandage your down pipes?
-
Hi Julie, the scientific answer is that the retained heat helps the gases flow better and helps keeps the optimal operating temperature more stable. The real answer is that the previous owner had sent the old one scraping along some Tarmac and I didn't want to shell out for a new exhaust. I'm already about a grand over on the spend!!
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
The bandages will help the scrapes to heal properly. Come on Julie, I thought you knew that.
-
Oh yeh and what Mike said.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
So I've had a massive issue with the engine so I'm back to where I was back in October. This is a bit disappointing but it needs to be right. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170226/00ec5c7c63127b0bb6d9faaa4103f9e1.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170226/cd2f3bee865e1030ad3ea944d9ab7d63.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170226/51a771d00fa24dc77ab763f41852f1ef.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170226/11320bd703031c5bd42b4b63cebecf14.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
With all the information gained from this forum and the fact that I did it last year I've managed to do this on my own. I do think that every thing is new has made a big difference though.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
Bloody hell, talk about 3 steps forward and 10 back, what's up with the engine?
-
For some reason my geriatric desktop running 97 wont show me pictures loaded using tapatalk so i can't help
-
I noticed blow back through the carbs on number 1 cylinder when hand cranking it over before filling with oil so I could start her up.
Suspect head issues with valves not seating or a bent valve. Trigger gave me the details of someone who can sort it but I need to get the head to him.
On the plus side I'm getting good at stripping her down.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
Anyone know what happened with this build? It was looking great and I was hoping for an awesome finale but it just ended??
-
He's still on with it I've seen it on a page on facebook . Engine is back together and he's on with wiring .