Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => Project Board => Topic started by: Deano400 on February 03, 2018, 09:13:06 AM
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Have done a search on the site and couldn't find anything on the best blasting media for frame, swing-arm, etc. Can anyone recommend a blasting media?
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It depends on the state of the frame, what finish you are looking for and what sort of paint you are going to use. Most power coaters use grit to blast because it is quick and leaves a rough finish for the paint to stick to. Grit is very aggressive and if the frame is old and rusty, it can end up looking like a tea bag ;)
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It depends on the state of the frame, what finish you are looking for and what sort of paint you are going to use. Most power coaters use grit to blast because it is quick and leaves a rough finish for the paint to stick to. Grit is very aggressive and if the frame is old and rusty, it can end up looking like a tea bag ;)
But at least it's nice and clean, and easier to get welded repairs done, better to find out any weak spots at that stage than after painting/coating it!
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Thanks Trigger. The frame is in good condition, bit of light rust here and there, scratches and flakes. I am going to paint not powder coat. Haven't decided on the paint yet, recommendations welcome.
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Thanks Trigger. The frame is in good condition, bit of light rust here and there, scratches and flakes. I am going to paint not powder coat. Haven't decided on the paint yet, recommendations welcome.
If doing it yourself, black Smoothrite was always a good choice, BUT the EU decided we couldn't be trusted to use it safely, so the formulation has been changed substantially, and I can't vouch for the modern version.
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Thanks hairygit I'll give it a try, maybe just the swing arm to start with and see how it works.
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i painted my panther frame with smoothrite. it looked really nice but it would chip easily. i got a better result with finnegans no 1 (i think) as a primer, then smoothrite.
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Thanks Trigger. The frame is in good condition, bit of light rust here and there, scratches and flakes. I am going to paint not powder coat. Haven't decided on the paint yet, recommendations welcome.
If doing it yourself, black Smoothrite was always a good choice, BUT the EU decided we couldn't be trusted to use it safely, so the formulation has been changed substantially, and I can't vouch for the modern version.
Sent from my X6pro using Tapatalk
Modern version is sh*te I am told not very black unless a mega thick coat which Honda's never had
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You need a good paint that is fuel and chemical resistant. I get my metal parts powdered but, you must be aware of powder coaters.
I had a couple of frames done by a company in Castleford and asked for them to be done in satin black and showed them a sample of powder from my old painter (who is the other side of the country to me now). When I went to pick them up, they were more matt than satin >:(.There argument was that it said satin on the box of paint ???.
I have now found a very good painter in my area that matched the original finish.
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Would that be LSN or Midas Touch trigger? LSN have a great reputation and have done a few parts for me which i have been very happy with...... although they once powder coated a crank case for me (rd250) and managed to stick tons of blast media to the inside of the case.. i had to dremel it off..... I always find powder coaters let themselves down when it comes to masking surfaces or avoiding blasting certain areas...... they often get it wrong
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LSN are OK but the only job they did for me, they masked everything pretty good but that was in gloss and then I saw a sample of their 'satin' black at Rufforth Autojumble and I agree with Graham it's more like matt finish than satin. I think John Wyatt uses them.
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Hi Deano, why do you want to paint instead of powder coat?, modern powder coat can give a good gloss finish if that’s what you’re looking for.
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I've been considering getting glass media, I think the company selling it said fine grade for the hobby use blaster I have. My last job involved shot blasting with chilled iron shot, we had issues with rough finish leaving the paint looking rough, the finer stuff gave a better finish but turned to dust far faster and took longer to do the job. I think at £750/ ton the rate it turned to dust was costly especially if it got wet - not good news with any shot blast media but I imagine the glass would at least dry out better if it does get the damp.... Hammerite just ain't as good as it was. I use industrial cellulose plant paint on my machinery, looks after a year of carting muck like it's more durable, far cheaper than hammerite and ditto for the thinners, found a 20l drum for £20 delivered. Gets a decent finish 50% thinned down with a cheap spay gun. I tend to use red oxide primers, not as effective as the old paints but does seem to be rather tough stuff. Last bike frame I did I brush painted with Blackfriar brand red oxide and satin black. Still looking reasonable after 7 years and 4 winters commuting.
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I strip the old with proper old fashioned methylene chloride stripper then glass bead blast but that's for an import type frame that has minimal rust. This frame was done that way and is away at the moment with Andrew Parnaby for painting candy red. For a rusty UK frame then glass would be hard work to get to a rust free state I imagine. Glass does flow a lot better though,particularly in cold damp weather like this.
[attach=1]
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Many moons ago I used to use a guy for painting frames at J13 M1 and the paint always lifted on the joints after six months. It took me a while to work out that he took the frames to Bedford to be blasted and then would sit the frame in his workshop until he had time to paint it. I visited him to once to chase up and saw the frame sitting in a corner going rusty again >:(.
If you use a painter, it is always better that he does the blasting in house and it is painted the same day.
I would never recommend the guy I use now, as everyone would take frames to him and that would slow up any work that I need doing ;)
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Many moons ago I used to use a guy for painting frames at J13 M1 and the paint always lifted on the joints after six months. It took me a while to work out that he took the frames to Bedford to be blasted and then would sit the frame in his workshop until he had time to paint it. I visited him to once to chase up and saw the frame sitting in a corner going rusty again >:(.
If you use a painter, it is always better that he does the blasting in house and it is painted the same day.
I would never recommend the guy I use now, as everyone would take frames to him and that would slow up any work that I need doing ;)
If you use someone like Andrew there is no way he would paint a frame or tank etc with rust on it...and he says he loves the way I pre-prep the parts as it's minimal effort for him and there are no hidden gremlins lurking underneath the paint and rust. Same goes for Allenchrome Graham ..they love pre-prepped parts IF it's done properly. Personally, I always share my decent places I have used, in some cases it has helped them stay in business as they are good at what they do but not good at promoting/advertising their business ;)
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I strip the old with proper old fashioned methylene chloride stripper then glass bead blast but that's for an import type frame that has minimal rust. This frame was done that way and is away at the moment with Andrew Parnaby for painting candy red. For a rusty UK frame then glass would be hard work to get to a rust free state I imagine. Glass does flow a lot better though,particularly in cold damp weather like this.
(Attachment Link)
Looks like a giraffe... 😁
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The paint rep visiting where I used to work used to get so frustrated as did I as shot blaster and the paint guy as he'd told us and we couldn't get the managers to take on board that there is what the rep called the golden 4 hours, that being the proper maximum window between blasting something and laying on the first coat of paint down, after that atmospheric corrosion sets in, I'd frequently get asked to blast stuff as a matter of urgency then it would sit unheeded in the workshop for a week before the welders set to on it, and another week whilst our manager got around to actually getting thinners in so painting could happen. Then the higher up managers gave us the flack for the quality.... whilst reminding us of the pecking order and that we must do as told. How I miss that job.
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The paint rep visiting where I used to work used to get so frustrated as did I as shot blaster and the paint guy as he'd told us and we couldn't get the managers to take on board that there is what the rep called the golden 4 hours, that being the proper maximum window between blasting something and laying on the first coat of paint down, after that atmospheric corrosion sets in, I'd frequently get asked to blast stuff as a matter of urgency then it would sit unheeded in the workshop for a week before the welders set to on it, and another week whilst our manager got around to actually getting thinners in so painting could happen. Then the higher up managers gave us the flack for the quality.... whilst reminding us of the pecking order and that we must do as told. How I miss that job.
Your old boss was very generous with the timing Matt. The chap that Trigger uses now insists on no longer than 1 hour between the blasters finishing and sprayers powder coating.
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Hi Deano, why do you want to paint instead of powder coat?, modern powder coat can give a good gloss finish if that’s what you’re looking for.
Hi Mark. I intended to use paint to keep the bike more original, not that I am aiming for concourse just the best I can afford. Also would like to do as much as I can myself.
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The paint rep visiting where I used to work used to get so frustrated as did I as shot blaster and the paint guy as he'd told us and we couldn't get the managers to take on board that there is what the rep called the golden 4 hours, that being the proper maximum window between blasting something and laying on the first coat of paint down, after that atmospheric corrosion sets in, I'd frequently get asked to blast stuff as a matter of urgency then it would sit unheeded in the workshop for a week before the welders set to on it, and another week whilst our manager got around to actually getting thinners in so painting could happen. Then the higher up managers gave us the flack for the quality.... whilst reminding us of the pecking order and that we must do as told. How I miss that job.
Your old boss was very generous with the timing Matt. The chap that Trigger uses now insists on no longer than 1 hour between the blasters finishing and sprayers powder coating.
There were some bloody cowboys there Julie, 27 ton trailer blasted and painted with the wheels still on to avoid shot getting near the rusted brakes, so rusted an airline used to blow loose shot off blew a 2"hole in them. All this just to up the asking price before selling it to some poor sucker. Given the cost of blasting and painting something that size I thought it bloody shoddy not to just do it right rather than bodge and waste time disgusting the bodge. I made my feelings known on that, cost me the job.
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Hi Deano, why do you want to paint instead of powder coat?, modern powder coat can give a good gloss finish if that’s what you’re looking for.
Hi Mark. I intended to use paint to keep the bike more original, not that I am aiming for concourse just the best I can afford. Also would like to do as much as I can myself.
Don't blame you .. gone right off powder coat myself. I have painted a couple of frames myself recently and they look far more like Honda original than any PC I have seen and at least you can touch them up. I only gave my CD125 frame to a pro painter as it's candy red and I don't feel confident to do that and paint is too mega expensive to cock up and redo.