Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => CB750 => Topic started by: Underdog1 on May 27, 2018, 11:14:27 AM
-
Looking at sorting a set of K6 wheels out, currently they are sat in the garage stripped down with no bearings in (hub spikes and rim are still assembled). End goal is to have them powdercoater Black.
My plan of action is to remove the old tyres, purchase new tyres, stick the new bearings in, get the naked wheel trued, fit new tyres, balance wheels, mark position of new tyres, remove tyres and bearings, get wheels powdercoated as a single piece, refit tyres as per reference marks.
I understand a ‘better’ option would be to get the wheels relaced with black spokes and get just the hub and rims powdercoated but this is a lot more expensive and for something that’s only going to get light use I don’t think I’ll be adjusting spokes any time soon anyway.
Does this sequence of events seem about right? To get the wheels trued/balanced how assembled do they need to be.. e.g discs sprockets cushdrive fitted etc
Finally what are some common tyre choices? I’m after something that look a little knobbly but not so much they will handle like a custard filled condom.. I like the Firestone ANS a lot but the price is rediculuous.
(https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0648/3795/files/blog_frontwheel.jpg)
What’s out there that’s similar for a more realistic price? Best I've seen so far is the Dunlop K70
-
Not a good idea to powder coat with bearings in as they wont like the 400 deg heat
-
Not a good idea to powder coat with bearings in as they wont like the 400 deg heat
Plan on pulling them out before powder coating mate
-
The only way to get bearings is to tap from the middle, which renders them scrap on safety grounds.
Sent from my X6pro using Tapatalk
-
The only way to get bearings is to tap from the middle, which renders them scrap on safety grounds.
Sent from my X6pro using Tapatalk
surely using a blind bearing puller is fine?
-
Not if it pulls on the inner race, the bearings will suffer if you try, and will almost certainly fail prematurely if you re fit them. Sorry, but that's the way bearings are, the wheel bearings are not designed for sideways load.
-
Given the cost of bearings (about £6 a piece), false economy not to replace them into..
-
Not if it pulls on the inner race, the bearings will suffer if you try, and will almost certainly fail prematurely if you re fit them. Sorry, but that's the way bearings are, the wheel bearings are not designed for sideways load.
Given the cost of bearings (about £6 a piece), false economy not to replace them into..
I have a new set of sealed bearings to go in, but the old ones are already out and i need a set in the wheels to get them trued and balanced.
Have managed to find the old ones so will press them back in. might even leave them in for powder coating and then replace them to make sure no powder coat goes inside the hubs
-
If you are really lucky and heat the hub enough but not too much then the bearing might come out really easily. On the other hand if you are not lucky the heat from powdercoat might distort the trued up wheel. Cannot say I have ever tried anything around powdercoating but I have a feeling that painting the whole lot up in 1 lump is going to end up being a false economy over painting each part and assembling. Given it's a cosmetic process I would be most worried about the paint cracking, chipping or flaking once in use at each point parts meet, let alone the disheartening effect if a spoke does need tightening after it's powdercoated together. Would work out more expensive if it all needs to come appart and be 're done. If I were just spray painting it I would risk it, less to loose.
-
If you are really lucky and heat the hub enough but not too much then the bearing might come out really easily. On the other hand if you are not lucky the heat from powdercoat might distort the trued up wheel. Cannot say I have ever tried anything around powdercoating but I have a feeling that painting the whole lot up in 1 lump is going to end up being a false economy over painting each part and assembling. Given it's a cosmetic process I would be most worried about the paint cracking, chipping or flaking once in use at each point parts meet, let alone the disheartening effect if a spoke does need tightening after it's powdercoated together. Would work out more expensive if it all needs to come appart and be 're done. If I were just spray painting it I would risk it, less to loose.
fair comment and this was the original route i was going to go down. However after contacting a couple of companies and getting it priced up off the top of my head it was going to cost £400+ to have the hubs and rims powder coated and relacld with black spokes which i felt was outrageous.
If anyone can point me in the right direction of some black spokes for a reasonable cost then perhaps i can lace them myself and then get a pro to just true the wheel for me
EDIT: just looked through my emails and central wheels were going to charge m £350 per wheel! Devon rim company was unwilling to use any parts provided by me so wanted to use brand new rims and hubs.
David silver supplies spoke sets for £35 each inc nipples, although these are in silver. the only place I've found black spokes available is through central wheels which are £101 per set, with another £19 per wheel for the nipples. Id love black spokes but that really is too much.
-
Cripey! That's a bit of a cost! Rattle can black over standard wheels and powdercoat rims if it were me. I think mordant T wash solution then special metals primer should stick to the galvy spokes, if lucky you can 're use originals with care, if they are in good shape to start with. Rebuild at home at minimal cost, I resorted to that on my sidecar bike when the rear drum lining cracked, had to strip it to fit the hub on the lathe and 're line the drum. Virtually no cost in cash terms but a lot of time.....
-
Might be worth getting a set of spokes black anodized and have a go at lacing the wheels yourself. It’s not as hard as it looks. The hard part is truing them up...
-
Might be worth getting a set of spokes black anodized and have a go at lacing the wheels yourself. It’s not as hard as it looks. The hard part is truing them up...
The issue is finding the black spokes, the only place that seems to have them is central wheels who want £101 per wheel plus £19 per set of nipples! £240 just for black spokes!
I wonder if I could get the cheap ones DS does powdercoated (leaving the threads bare)
-
What’s the thickest tyres you can get on without any significant mods?
I’d like a 4.50 rear and 4.00 front, like the look of thick rubber. Choices are limited though, seems to mostly be enduro tyres in those sizes!
-
I have been looking to replace a Pirelli Phantom 120/90 18, which is not made anymore. The 120 is wider than a 4.50 ;)
-
I use these sites to compare specs, may be of use.
https://tiresize.com/calculator/
It may be the chainguard that first limits the rear, coming close to the tire shoulder.
Or with extra link in chain you can possibly run it slightly more rearward to bring the tire out a bit from any narrowing at the front of the swingarm to increase the tire width.
-
The closest part to the tyre is the torsion bar. With a 120 tyre, it only leaves you about 10mm ;)
-
The closest part to the tyre is the torsion bar. With a 120 tyre, it only leaves you about 10mm ;)
Nice, thinking about it I think the bike came with some ancient 4.50 on the rear anyway.
I really like the TT100 but the closest sizes I can find to what I’m after is a 4.10-19 59H up front and a 4.25/85-18 64H rear. For whatever reason the 4.25 Tyre is the only one in the TT100 that has a profile specified (85). Is this suitable?
-
4.10 on the front is tight but, it depends on the mudguard. You will also get a lot of tyre flex at that size on the front. Most people drop the wheel rim size to 18" on the front because there is a greater range of that tyre size ;)
-
4.10 on the front is tight but, it depends on the mudguard. You will also get a lot of tyre flex at that size on the front. Most people drop the wheel rim size to 18" on the front because there is a greater range of that tyre size ;)
Hmm no mudguard just using the inner brace section from one. The next size down is 3.60 which I feel won’t give me the thick rubber look I want.
May just go for the 4.10 up front as in not exactly going to be getting my knee down on the old girl anyway
-
The TT100 sizes you quote are what we fitted when the bike was current
-
The TT100 sizes you quote are what we fitted when the bike was current
With the 3.60 or 4.10 up front?
-
3.6 on 500, 4.1 on 750
-
Taking the wheels to get the tyres fitted up and balanced tomorrow hopefully. Would much prefer the spoke mounted bead weights rather than the usual stick on type. Is this likely something I’ll have to sort myself or do bike garages tend to stock these?
-
They may not need balancing at all. None of our wheels have weights on them and trust me, we have lots of wheels :)
-
Underdog, a while ago my MOT testing station told me those spoke mounted weights now illegal as they can come loose / fly off / become a bullet. Regardless, like you I prefer ‘em and sourced s job lot off here - and statically balance my own wheels. Never had a problem...
(Trig - you do MOTs... this right??)
-
Can anyone confirm what the offset needs to be in these wheels when they get trued?
-
Zero
-
Zero
That’s what I thought, I called my local bloke earlier and he made me clarify like 3 times there was no offset, and then confirm the rear wheel was a drum and I said I’d go and double check just in case I’ve got it wrong!