Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => CB750 => Topic started by: Arch stanton on September 15, 2018, 08:16:47 PM
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Hello Folks.
There must be someone on here that has used the clock faces supplied by CB750faces.com.
I have a pair, but i have noticed they are a lot lighter colour on the rear side thus letting a lot more light through.
So my questions are.
Do these faces light up correctly?
Or do they let too much light shine though?
Or even cast silhouettes of the clocks workings?
I'm thinking maybe i could use some self adhesive vinyl
On the back to prevent the problem I'm anticipating.
You're thoughts & experiences would be greatly appreciated.
Sean.
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I had Marcels (CB750faces.com) faces fitted when Peter (Kent400) overhauled the clocks on my CB400/4 and those ones are fine as far as the background lighting is concerned. Why don't you message Marcel and ask him / discuss it with him?
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I have those faces on the 750 there so dull at night I wouldn't mess with them.
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I forgot to mention the clocks in question are Green F1 clocks. Dont know if that makes any difference.
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I've fitted dozens of faces obtained from Marcel, CB350F, CB400F CB500F and CB750F and a gauge illumination problem has never been reported to me. The light does not shine though the faces, there's reflectors in the bases so the light shines round the inner bodies and over the faces. Fair to say the illumination of any of these gauges was never great, in fact the gauges fitted to the CB500F has only one bulb and the faces on those are aluminium. It's not a great idea to use a higher wattage bulbs, these little bulbs get very hot and a higher wattage one gets even hotter. On some designs of gauges where the mileage or trip counter wheels are close to the bulb apertures the heat from the bulbs can distort the counter wheels. Only the recommended bulbs should be used and those with the extended dome should be avoided.
I always bright zinc plate the bases, whether or not this improves the reflection inside the base I'm not sure but probably to a small degree.
The colour of the inside of Marcel's faces are white rather than green but I can't see that makes any difference. The actual face colour originally is difficult to determine, they are always faded to differing degrees and printed originally at different batches leading to colour differences. Obviously Marcel has done a considerable amount of research on face colours and I think they are very close to original. Again I never had anyone tell me the colour is wrong.
Fitting dial face overlays isn't going to improve the illumination but maybe LED bubs would, perhaps there's a forum member fitted these and can report if there's an improvement.
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Just to add I have never found the dull clocks to be an issue as my headlight is just as poor so I don't get time to glance at the clocks while riding at night.
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I have leds in my clocks and idiot lights the improvement is minor but they run a lot cooler and save a few watts. These bike are not exactly overflowing with electricity and as they say every little helps.
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Befire i finally sealed my Tacho i thought i would put in the bulbs and give it a test in a dark place.
My suspicion was correct. I can clearly read in large letters.
"Lexiglass the original from" which is printed on the reverse side. So self adhesive vinyl it is.
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I can't see the point of that at all. Firstly when riding you are not looking at the clocks direct on, they are always at a fair slant and I think you may get the vinyl melting due to heat. I think it's a shame you don't think Marcels products are fit for purpose, it gives his products a bad name when many forum members are perfectly happy with his products. Just my opinion though.
Edit...i have just looked through our stock of faces from Marcel and all of the backs are white wth no writing on.......is it a protective backing he has started adding which you are supposed to peel off?.
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Have used Marcel's clock faces on K1 and K2, always thought they were spot on. May not have peeled off backing!
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Hello Julie.
Firstly thank you for pointing out that the script is on a peel off protective film. I have now removed said film.
But there is still the shadow of the workings.
The point is. Im trying to get everything as right as possible.
I did not say nor imply that Marcels products "were not fit for purpose"
This is probably only an issue with the green faces.
In my original post i purely asked if anyone else had encountered the same. I was not making a criticism of Marcel or his first rate products. Nor had i any intention of getting his products a bad name.
But it is a fact that no light shines through the original green ND faces. So i shall replicate this on the new faces either using vinyl or some other means.
Thank you for your interest & advice.
Regards.
Sean.
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A reply from my side:
The first purpose of the face plates is that these look similar to the original faces by day light. That is already a challenge.
The original plastic face plates are made from a special transparent green colored 1.5 or 2mm thick plastic. Unfortunately, these plastic plates are not available in thinner plate than 3mm. I have done a lot of research and I have not found this special colored plastic. All transparant colored plastic sheets are at least 3mm thick and not suitable for these face plates. So I have decided to use a white plastic plate, which works great, but does not have the same appearance with back lights on. That is a compromise. In that way, I can keep the prices at a fair level.
If you use a decal over the original face plates, you will get serious problems when the decal comes loose from the plastic plate after a certain time. My real face plates will last for many years.
I sold thousands face plates and other gauge parts to all parts of the world. Several big distributors like David Silver, CMS, Yamiya, Andy Cepok and others sell my face plates and other gauge parts. I did more than 2,000 gauge restorations. It has never been an issue that the face plates look a bit different at night.
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Hello.
Thank you for your very clear explanation.
Please do not think i was being critical in any way.
As that was not my intention. All the items i have purchaced from you are very satisfactory indeed. The green faces are a perfect match to the originals.
I was only thinking of blocking any light from shining through by applying a dark green/black vinyl to the rear of the face.
Or by using a coat of paint.
I only asked if anyone else had noticed light penetrating the faces.
I can obviously live with it. And i am greatfull to people like yourself who make restoring our bikes possible.
Regards.
Sean.
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Hello.
Thank you for your very clear explanation.
Please do not think i was being critical in any way.
As that was not my intention. All the items i have purchaced from you are very satisfactory indeed. The green faces are a perfect match to the originals.
I was only thinking of blocking any light from shining through by applying a dark green/black vinyl to the rear of the face.
Or by using a coat of paint.
I only asked if anyone else had noticed light penetrating the faces.
I can obviously live with it. And i am greatfull to people like yourself who make restoring our bikes possible.
Regards.
Sean.
Hi Sean, I did not think that you were critical. And if you were, you have the right to be critical. I felt responsible to give you a clear explanation.
Greetings from Holland!
Marcel
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It's interesting to hear from Marcel the practical material limitations involved to get the faces to look as original.
The issue you describe here is unwanted transmittance. You could try (sample first with something like clear perspex) using Tamiya model spray paints, possibly a closest match to the green first on the rear side of the material and followed by silver or white over that to reflect light from the surface of the green paint to reduce further any light that it transmits.
What it should do is reduce and control the light from bulbs from entering the plastic (the silver coat) and any that does come through will be damped and converted by the green.
Those paints are designed for plastic and have very good light stability along with fade resistance.
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That sounds like a great idea Nigel.
This is such a great forum, no matter how obscure the problem someone has an answer :)
I think its time I made another donation to keep this knowledge flowing to those (all of us!) that need it.
Well explained Marcel, keeping these old bikes running and in good condition does require some compromises to originality. Good luck with the rebuild Sean.
Dave
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It just so happens. I have some 50mm aluminium tape.
Which i hadn't thought of. Cheers.
Sean.