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Messages - Fogdevil
1
« on: November 17, 2018, 10:42:55 PM »
Totally agree with Royhall.
Kent400 did my gauges and they came back things of beauty.
2
« on: May 18, 2018, 08:25:00 AM »
Hello Andeks
I think I read on this forum somewhere/sometime that if you have torqued up the swing arm bolt it makes it
trickier/more of a squeeze to get the engine in and it's easier to fit engine 1st then torque up swing arm bolt.
When you fit the sump make sure all the bolt holes are clean.I scoured mine out with WD40 and cotton buds.
Last thing you want is to have a bolt decide to graunch into the hole,get stuck in the crud, all while your on your back
under the engine with the thin gasket flapping about!!
3
« on: April 22, 2018, 08:52:25 PM »
Threadlocked mine too Mike.
Julie,mine is a very early '77 f2.
My sprocket is solid(as in the shop manual) but I have seen 'holed' sprockets(as in parts list)??
Weird
4
« on: April 22, 2018, 08:41:27 PM »
Just wondering if you could help me get something straight in my head.
I have just timed the camshaft (T1-4 marks correspond,cam sprocket lines parallel with top of barrel,cylinder 4 cam lobes pointing down)
Next job is to fit the head and adjust tappets.
According to the manual you first adjust cylinder 1 tappets at TDC with valves shut. BUT if I leave the camshaft in the same position(as above) the cam lobes are pointing up therefore valves are open.
SO-do I have to rotate crank until cylinder 1 TDC and lobes face down.If so,why does workshop manual(p20) show you cylinder 4 with lobes in down position for timing purposes?
OR-do I adjust tappets at cylinder 4 first and do it the opposite way to the manual
Am I overthinking this?
5
« on: April 22, 2018, 07:40:35 PM »
Have picked up on some posts that people have or have not got a thin metal plate between cam sprocket and the knock bolts.
My knock bolts were not flanged so I wonder if it was a way to spread the loading from the knock bolt to the cam sprocket. [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
6
« on: April 22, 2018, 07:26:47 PM »
Yes, I fitted the cam chain tensioner and guide,then bolted down the tensioner slipper holder onto the top of the tensioner before loosening off the tensioner bolt at the front of the engine.
Before I let the bolt off the tensioner slipper was flush with the barrel head.
I reasoned that if I loosened the tensioner slipper holder the tensioner slipper would move upwards if the horseshoe tensioner thingy was doing its job.
It did.
Therefore can only assume everything working ok and that the cam chain is at correct tautness.
Cheers Foggy
PS Note that I have spelt tautness correctly this time
7
« on: April 19, 2018, 07:01:10 PM »
Hello all
Having just attached the camshaft sprocket,cam chain and done timing for camshaft I undid the cam chain tensioner nut and setting bolt.
The cam chain is in contact with the cam chain guide at the front and there is a bulge in the chain where the cam chain tensioner slipper is in contact with the cam chain at the rear.
Should there be slack in the chain or should it be relatively taught?
It is difficult to tell but I think I have approx 8mm of movement in the chain between the slipper and the sprocket and there is backwards and forwards motion in the chain.
I have undone the bolt above the cam chain tensioner and the push bar is recessed 12.5mm from the top of the crankcase.
The engine turns freely and the timing stays constant.
I cannot pull the chain in an upwards movement off the sprocket and it stays in place at the crankase when the engine is turned and stationary.
I am sorry but trying to photo the chain is impossible.
I would just like to double check before attaching the cylinder head cover.
Thanks Foggy
8
« on: April 17, 2018, 04:11:13 PM »
Hello again
Just an update on the offending stud.
I was unable to get all of the original studs out so sent the upper crankcase(with remaining stud in situ) to engineers.
The original stud broke off on removal and had to be spark eroded out.
Resultant hole was filled,drilled and tapped for new stud BUT drilled 5mm too deep.
Problem not noticed till I tried to fit cylinder head.
Long story short: went back to engineers,process repeated correctly,everything tickety boo,no charge
Thanks for all the input
Foggy
Ian:No,I am not a member.Maybe when bike on road. 2025?
9
« on: February 19, 2018, 05:52:18 PM »
Thanks everybody.
This morning I was hoping I could do an easy fix/bodge but you have all convinced me that is not the way to go.I need to get the stud out,examined and check for any damage below.
It is a right royal pain but hey-ho.I've absorbed a lot of info and learnt new tips.
I will let you know how I get on.
Cheers Foggy
10
« on: February 19, 2018, 04:42:04 PM »
The dowel is straight but the stud is 'not quite vertical'.However, once the cylinder head is on there is no problem and it is very easy to get it on.
There is no washer lodged anywhere but the offending stud is 5mm shorter than its equivalent.
I will tentatively try the double nut method(I only thought of using a stud extractor which would have caused damage) and if there is any sign of success I will take the stud out, measure it and then replace with new.
I suppose the double nut method can be reversed to tighten studs up and a torque wrench used on the upper nut if needed?
Just measured the stud heights above the barrel 28.4mm and 23.6mm
11
« on: February 19, 2018, 04:00:38 PM »
Just noticed Orcadian's measurement parameters.I can relax-my studs haven't stretched by 22mm!!
Nurse Julie-what's this technique with double-nutting?Sounds very useful.Especially the part about saving me having to take the barrel off.
12
« on: February 19, 2018, 03:51:22 PM »
It is in the front row of studs,offside, second one in.(E227 90032-377-000 in parts manual) [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
On Orcadian's picture it is the left hand(as we look at it) 100.
Just to complicate matters my parts manual describes it as 8x122, which I assume means 122mm long?
13
« on: February 19, 2018, 01:59:08 PM »
I have just gone onto the DS website to have a look at a picture of a stud.
You are all quite right. There is definitely a bulbous part to the shaft, just above the thread, at one end.
Looks like it has been put in upside down!!
Oh well.A trip back to the engineers is on the cards.
I refer to my earlier comments:"Mutter,mutter,mutter"
Thanks for your help.I will let you know the outcome.
14
« on: February 19, 2018, 12:12:29 PM »
I know I have read somewhere that the early F1's had a minor oil leak problem on some bikes.
Honda increased the length of some studs(couldn't tell you which ones) by 1mm to cure the problem.
However, if this info is inaccurate I am sure someone on here will inform me.
I would hate to start an 'urban myth'.
15
« on: February 19, 2018, 11:02:30 AM »
You're right Julie.
I think it needs an engineers touch.
Having seen the state of your pistons and cylinder head ,yet the bike still functioned ,made me wonder if a little problem like mine would have been coped with by Honda engineering.
Better safe now than costing lots of money later
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