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Messages - andut
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31
« on: June 28, 2018, 08:09:34 AM »
Does it run OK at part throttle and above ? If it's just idle where you have the problem, you may have gone the wrong way with your idle jets. It sounds counter intuitive, but other people have had more success with smaller .38 dle jets with pod filters - it's linked to the fuel not emulsifying sufficiently in the idle circuit with the larger jets, so you may want to try the std .40 jets and then find some .38s if it seems a bit better. Having said that, the changes are quite small and I would have expected poor running, stalling after a few seconds if the jetting was incorrect - if it's not running at all, then you may have other problems - air leaks, throttle slide settings etc. Did it run before and idle OK ? Have you bench set the carbs and closed throttle slide position etc ?
32
« on: June 21, 2018, 07:51:00 AM »
I'm with a company called Lynbrook - not always fast at answering a phone call, but I couldn't argue at the price of a multi bike policy. They recently added my newly rebuild 400 to an existing policy for free - when did you ever get anything for free from an insurance company !!!!!
33
« on: June 21, 2018, 07:47:40 AM »
Go for it Dave - you have a great resource in Julie's rebuild thread and you would have all of the help you could need from this forum if you get stuck. The 400 engine is a nice engine to work on, requires only a few specialist tools, and it's a great feeling when the engine that you have rebuilt fires up again !
There will likely be tasks that you won't be able to do, but again, advice on here on who to turn to for machining etc.
Andy
34
« on: May 24, 2018, 08:52:20 PM »
No experience on bike emissions, but an old school car engine on carbs would typically be around 2% to 4.5% CO at idle and I see no reason why a smaller engine would be much different. Cyl#3 reading would suggest a problem, either air screw adjustment or blocked idle jet if readings taken at idle, but I would expect you to notice a miss or hesitation ? If you strip the carbs, suggest you give them a good blast of air through all of the cross drillings in the bodies, emulsion tubes and jets (including the air bleed holes in idle jets)- may be worth getting a set of jet drills to double check jets are the size they say they are just in case someone has been tinkering although a larger jet would obviously not be causing your apparently lean cylinder.
Andy
35
« on: May 04, 2018, 08:29:08 AM »
Lovelly job - I that exhaust sounds great !
Julie, you're going to have to grow an ironic beard and get all hipster with that in the stable !
36
« on: April 29, 2018, 03:34:24 PM »
Well done on the rebuild Julie, and a great reference thread created in the process !
37
« on: April 22, 2018, 09:56:52 AM »
Thanks Mike, all screws definitely out, I've tapped it, and operated the clutch, tapped a bit more, tapped a bit harder and then had to walk away as the tapping started to get more meaningful ! It's really strange as I do not recall any cause for concern when it went on.
38
« on: April 22, 2018, 09:36:54 AM »
My list of things to do includes changing the kick start shaft and lever on my 400, so a simple job has stalled because I cannot get the bloody clutch cover off. Seems rediculous, but it won't budge and I can't get any purchse on any surfaces to persuade it to move - anyone else had similar problems ? Any ideas ?
Andy
39
« on: April 18, 2018, 07:23:41 AM »
Lovely job on the seat Crispy - where did you get the replacement cover from ?
I am about to attempt the same on my 400 for the first time - the foam looks OK to the untrained eye, but would welcome any recommendations for a new cover - is the DSS one any good ? Would also be glad of any advice on how to go about it and if reusing the old foam is acceptable !
Andy
40
« on: April 05, 2018, 12:44:33 PM »
As Julie said - search for ebay seller Gerben1956 - he supplies a kit of Viton seals for the float bowls & drain screws, main jets, needle valves and carb to carb fuel lines for less than £20. Worth also checking your float levels whilst they're apart.
Andy
41
« on: March 23, 2018, 01:01:04 PM »
Nice looking bike, but carbon fibre on a 70's bike just doesn't seem right to me.
42
« on: March 20, 2018, 08:23:08 AM »
The links to each pair of carbs are sprung loaded to allow adjustment of the individual slides - I would assume the metal plates you mention are there to damp any differential movement between #1 & #2 and between #3 & #3 during normal operation.
43
« on: March 13, 2018, 03:01:27 PM »
I would agree with Bryan's caution with those float bowl screws - you may want to check how good the threads are in the carb castings and consider helicoiling them all before fitting the carbs if you're expecting to be changing jets or float heights as part of your tuning. Cap heads will definitelty make removal / refit of the bowls easier once the carbs are on the bike, but go steady when tightening them up !
44
« on: March 11, 2018, 08:15:14 AM »
Best to check for midgets in the rocker cover whilst you're at it ........
45
« on: March 08, 2018, 02:30:18 PM »
American style office speak, a couple of weeks ago the district nurse phoned about re arranging her visit, and said "I'll see when I have a free window and we can touch base." WHAT? When did that kind of gobbledygook become part of our language? Thanks for reaching out to us with that one hairy 'Reaching out' - that's the flavour of the month within our American led company and it makes me increasing ill whenever I hear it....... On a similar subject theme I was watching the evening news last night to be told about criminals who had been 'rumbled' - what ever happened to standards ? This list could go on forever, but I would have to say my overiding hate is people's inability to take any kind of responsibility for their own actions or situations - it's always someone else's fault ...... Better stop now, can feel this evolving into a rant .... Andy (not presently reaching out ...... )
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