Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - gtmdriver

Pages: 1 ... 14 15 [16] 17 18
226
In the 5 weeks since I got my CB350F it's come along quite a bit.

When I bought it it had this godawful fairing on and was running very roughly.



Since then I've put in a fair amount of work.

The fairing has gone but the headlamp unit was the wrong one for the bike so I've temporarily fitted a complete chrome unit.

I've refitted proper indicators. The stalks are Honda but not quite the correct ones.

I cleaned out the tank and fuel tap, stripped, rebuilt and reset the carbs, fitted new points, condensers and plugs and gave the engine a full service. It now runs very nicely.

I removed and greased both stands then pulled out the rear wheel and mudguard.

The mudguard has been de-rusted, treated and undersealed with stone chip. I changed the chain and sprockets, the wheel bearings, the brake shoes and the tyre, tube and rim tape.

I managed to get a universal carrier to fit and a friend gave me the top box so, after a good clean, it now looks like this. Not massively different but definitely on the right track.



So far so good. Then I took it for a run across to Carlisle from Chester le Street and on the way back a coil failed and I lost cylinders 1 and 4. To be fair I suspect it's my own fault as a couple of days ago, while I was doing some wiring work, I accidentally left the ignition switched on for an hour or so while I had a lunch break. I suspect I must have seriously overheated the 42 year old coil.

More annoyingly, at some point in the ride I lost the L/H side panel logo. the one that says "350 4". I know DS has then but they're not exactly the same as the original.

So on Monday I'll order a pair of coils and a new logo and get down to a little more work. I guess these things are sent to try us.

227
CB350/400 / Re: CB350F a couple of easy questions
« on: September 22, 2015, 11:51:57 PM »
The Petrol pipe should be 5mm ID.

228
CB350/400 / Re: Boyer Bransden ignition.
« on: September 22, 2015, 05:20:54 PM »
That's interesting.

My info comes direct from Boyer Bransden and they definitely said full advance at 3500.

229
CB350/400 / Re: Boyer Bransden ignition.
« on: September 22, 2015, 02:36:36 PM »
Thanks for that.

I guess what I mean is that on the CB350F very little happens below 4000 rpm anyway so it's not going to be operating much in the 2500 - 3500 rpm range.

230
CB350/400 / Boyer Bransden ignition.
« on: September 22, 2015, 10:07:12 AM »
Has anyone fitted one of their CB400F units (KIT00089) to a CB350F by any chance?

It completely replaces the points, condensers, the backplate AND the mechanical advance unit.

It has a built in electronic advance curve which has the same full advance figure as the CB350F but reaches full advance at 3500 rpm rather than the 350's 2500 rpm.

I don't think that would matter a damn in practice but I'd like to know if the Boyer Bransden unit will physically fit into the 350F

231
CB350/400 / Re: Rear rack/carrier for a CB350F
« on: September 22, 2015, 09:59:27 AM »
That's the second one of those to turn up.

I'm not keen on the mounting arrangements either.

Just one single tube and the mudguard carrying the load.

At least my cheapie rack is totally frame mounted.

232
Misc / Open / Disc lock.
« on: September 17, 2015, 07:09:42 PM »
Has anyone found a compact disc lock which works with the disc on a CB350F/CB400F?

My Oxford Titan won't get around the hub area.

233
Misc / Open / Re: HISTORIC TAX
« on: September 17, 2015, 07:08:00 PM »
I bought my CB350F about a month ago and it was an American import.

The V5C showed it as first registered in 1976 but there was a note at the bottom of the front page stating that it was manufactured in 1974.

Its taxation class was 'Bicycle' so the RFL would have cost me £35.

I contacted DVLA by phone and enquired about changing the taxation class to 'Historic vehicle' and the very helpful operator said that it could be done at any post office which dealt with car taxation.

I took my V5C to my local post office explaining what I needed and they said that I would need to contact DVLA. When I explained that it was them who sent me to the post office in the first place they got onto their magic computer and carried out the alteration straight away.

I walked out with a receipt for zero payment which apparently doubled as my tax disc and the amended V5C arrived a couple of weeks later.

234
Misc / Open / Re: Cleaning rust from inside fuel tank.
« on: September 17, 2015, 06:57:54 PM »
Maybe it's a time or temperature thing.

I've left chromed parts in DeOx for days with no problems.

235
Misc / Open / Re: Ethanol in petrol
« on: September 17, 2015, 06:56:16 PM »
E5 had been snuck in with no warning whatever in the UK and the petrol companies don't even have to label the pumps as such.

They are even lobbying to avoid having to label pumps dispensing E10 so it looks like it will just creep in without any means of identifying it.

236
Misc / Open / Re: Ethanol in petrol
« on: September 17, 2015, 08:55:55 AM »
Definitely.

The problem is that it is difficult to keep track of ethanol free fuel as the available data constantly needs updating as more companies fall in to line with the EEC directive to move to E5 then E10.

There is a huge piece of research on biofuel here.

http://www.realclassic.co.uk/techfiles/bioethanol_fuel_study.pdf

237
Misc / Open / Re: Cleaning rust from inside fuel tank.
« on: September 17, 2015, 08:52:06 AM »
1 kg should be fine. It will make up to 20 litres at maximum dilution but the stronger you make the solution the faster it will work.

Warm water will help the crystals dissolve and will work quicker initially till it cools down.

As the product is dissolved in water make sure the inside of the tank is thoroughly degreased before you start. Any greasy residues will prevent the solution making full contact with the rust and steel.

238
Misc / Open / Re: Cleaning rust from inside fuel tank.
« on: September 16, 2015, 09:08:15 PM »
I've just done my tank with De-Ox from Bilt-Hamber.

It will remove rust but it is not strongly acidic. It is safe with all metals and other materials such as rubber seals or on paintwork.

It dissolves rust by chelating the iron rather than by acidic attack. I mixed it with 15 litres of water and completely filled the tank to the brim (CB350F).

When I emptied it out a couple of days later the inside of the tank was cleaned down to bare metal in all the nooks and crannies and even the steel components of the filler cap were as new.

It's not cheap but you can re-use the solution until it becomes exhausted (it goes black instead of yellow).

239
Misc / Open / Re: Ethanol in petrol
« on: September 16, 2015, 09:01:27 PM »
The Flexolite Ethnolmate, along with Frost Ethomix and 3 Millers product are the only ones found to work when tested by the FBHVC.

They prevent oxidation of the ethanol content and also prevent corrosion of the metallic components of older fuel systems. Unfortunately they do nothing to protect the elastomers such as O rings, flexible fuel lines etc. The only thing you can do for these is to use ethanol safe materials such as Teflon, Viton and Nitrile.

240
CB350/400 / Re: Rear rack/carrier for a CB350F
« on: September 14, 2015, 08:01:28 PM »
I realised that but the rubber mounts have seen better days and were allowing the indicators to droop so I decided to try it without them.

I'll keep an eye on the bulbs.

On a related topic is there any way to disable the indicator beeper or is it an integral part of the flasher unit?

Pages: 1 ... 14 15 [16] 17 18
SimplePortal 2.3.5 © 2008-2012, SimplePortal