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Messages - Fogdevil

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16
CB350/400 / Re: Cylinder stud too short!!
« on: February 19, 2018, 10:17:16 AM »
Oh darn and blast it!!
I wrecked some of the studs on removal so got a complete set of second hand engine studs from a 400/4 breaker and even stipulated the longer studs for an F2.
I remember measuring the lengths and they were all correct but didn't measure the relative lengths of the studs after installation.
I think I'll have to take the problem back to the engineering firm that installed them.(I wanted proper torque on the studs and haven't got that sort of ability to do it without graunching some metal)

Thanks for the info lads.

I'll let you know how I get on.

Mutter,mutter,mutter >:(

17
CB350/400 / Cylinder stud too short!!
« on: February 18, 2018, 11:01:30 PM »
Hello everybody
After having a fantastic day in the garage I come to the final job of the day-fastening down the cylinder head-only to find that the cylinder stud with the 'open' flanged nut(on the offside) will not grip.I can only assume that the stud has been put in too far.The other open nut/stud is fine.
If I omit the copper washer then it will fasten no problem.
If I use the copper washer with the original nut then it will fasten!(But have now stripped the original nut-and it was pretty grotty anyway).Indicates to me that the shortness of length of the stud is minimal.
I have hand tightened the nuts but just put copperslip under the problem nut for now.
Soooo.Do I:
Torque down the nuts as they are-leaving out the copper washer on the problem stud and assume that Honda overenginering will compensate?
Try to get a thinner copper washer?(Washer thickness 2.3mm)
Try different flanged nuts to see if one will 'grip' the stud.The new nut is original Honda part from DS.

I don't know enough about engineering to know if this is an irritating problem or an oil leak waiting to happen.

I am rather hoping my first suggestion is acceptable as I really,really,really DON'T want to undo all my good work so far. :(

What is the purpose of the copper washers?

Ta

18
CB350/400 / Re: Gear selector return ?
« on: February 10, 2018, 05:44:52 PM »
Thanks Hairy,Oddjob and Nurse Julie.
Did everything you all suggested and it all went according to plan :D

19
CB350/400 / Re: Gear selector return ?
« on: February 08, 2018, 11:03:43 PM »
I have not been rotating either output shaft or crank while trying to engage gears-just using the gear selector shaft.

Should I be rotating either output or crank at the same time as trying to engage the gears?

The output shaft spins freely as does the countershaft and crank when I spin them individually.

Sorry to be such a numptie but Haynes does not explain all this,just-"check gears for operation"

I had no idea that finding neutral was so simple-look for the brass button in the neutral switch hole.Little things like that are SO useful to amateurs like me!

20
CB350/400 / Re: Gear selector return ?
« on: February 08, 2018, 07:18:35 PM »
Just a follow on question from this thread.
Having just bolted the two crankcase covers together and re-attached all the gear selector gubbins I thought I would go through all the gears to make sure they work.
When the engine is upright,I can get 1st.
When engine turned upside down I can get 1st,N,2nd and 3rd.
Question(s):
Do I need to worry about not getting 4th,5th & 6th in a 'dry run' with the engine on the bench? Is lack of sufficient lubrication the issue as previously suggested.
Will the gears work correctly once under load?
Will I need to undo what I have done so far and get them working before proceeding any further?
This is my first engine strip and rebuild so I don't know if I am worrying too much or not.
Thanks
PS Big thanks to Julie for her posts.Massive help
PPS What is the easiest way to put photos on? I tried once but didn't manage it



21
CB350/400 / Re: Engine needle/ball bearings 400/4
« on: January 28, 2017, 02:42:35 PM »
Thanks for the info.
That has made my mind up and saved me a few quid.
Cheers

22
CB350/400 / Re: Engine needle/ball bearings 400/4
« on: January 26, 2017, 11:01:46 PM »
Hello Laverda 120
To be honest, I started this project about 3yrs ago. From what I remember there were no rumbly noises and all the bearings I have taken out appear to be unmarked and normal.
From everything I have read/absorbed about restoration seem to suggest replacing every replaceable part going-bearings being one of them.
I don't know if replacing the most likely bearings to wear is a sensible option.Which bearings are more susceptible to wear?
I know I don't want to go back into the engine 6 months later to replace a failed part,but is replacing as many as possible a bit overkill(and expensive)?
Hmmmm!!
Any advice welcome
Cheers

23
CB350/400 / Re: CB400F Rust on collector - Repair ?
« on: January 26, 2017, 02:10:20 PM »
Hello Peter
Just seen the topic.
I believe oxalic acid(wood bleach) will clear the rust out and is useful for cleaning chrome in general.
Leave to soak overnight then rub off.
Obviously it will re-rust if not rechromed but depends on what sort of finish you want
Regards
Foggy

24
CB350/400 / Engine needle/ball bearings 400/4
« on: January 26, 2017, 12:56:53 PM »
Hello everyone,
Having got into the guts of the engine and decided to replace all the roller type bearings I have discovered that of the 6 that could be replaced
one is discontinued(part ref 265) and another is prohibitively expensive(part ref 264).
From your collective knowledge,which bearings would NEED to be replaced and, if all of them, can anyone suggest a reputable bearing supplier.
The engine has done approx. 27k
One more question-The damper on the cam chain tensioner(part ref 51) is 1mm thicker on one side than t'other.Does the 'thicker' side go towards the front or back of the engine?
I hope the photo shows it
Cheers
Peter

25
CB350/400 / Re: valve spring length 400/4
« on: June 08, 2016, 09:33:50 PM »
Cheers Chris
That manual is a massive piece of useful data
Mike-I honestly didn't know i'd done that!!

26
CB350/400 / valve spring length 400/4
« on: June 07, 2016, 01:01:03 PM »
Hello everyone
Measured the inner and outer valve spring lengths.
All greater than the minimum length advised by mr Honda but only by about 1-1.5mm on all springs.
I don't intend to delve into the bowels again for a long time so would it be better to get new springs?
What is the length of NEW inner and outer springs?
Thanks in anticipation
Fogdevil
PS Struggling to send photos as I can't compress the photo enough

27
New Member Introductions / Re: Lurking no more!
« on: April 27, 2016, 10:24:37 AM »
Cheers Hairygit.
WOW.What a website.Marvellous

28
New Member Introductions / Lurking no more!
« on: April 27, 2016, 10:06:52 AM »
Hello everybody
Many years ago when I was 18 and at a party I saw a 400/4 driven through the back door,into the kitchen and then out the front door via the lounge.
Ever since then I thought "that's the bike for me!"
Now I've got one-but the wife says it has to stay in the garage.
My problem is-from the tilted/slewed position I was in at the time, I did not notice which side the rear spindle was inserted from.Brake side as per the parts manual and set up instructions or drive side as per Haynes.
Any help appreciated
Cheers
Fogdevil
PS I think it was a blue 400/4

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