Honda-SOHC

To all you poor souls freezing to death up there in Northern climes, please have a Safe, Enjoyable and Healthy 2018.
....from a glorious 33°c day in Perth (almost West of Everywhere!!  )

Ride on!!

HNY
Andy

After cleaning the carbs and replacing the aftermarket jets/needle with Keihin originals, I then bench synced using the method espoused by many (back off the idle screw completely, then set using light gap.)

I selected carb #2 as master and calibrated the Motion Pro sync tool on this carb.  The motor was previously warmed up and was running OK but somewhat "rough".  The idle screw was adjusted out to get near 1000rpm.
Initial indications showed #4 out by quite a bit.  Anyway, after some adjusting across #1,3 and 4 the idle could not be reduced below ~2200rpm (idle screw not contacting the throttle bar).  I did not adjust #2 as it was the master.

As per the 3000 service .....timing, tappets and cam chain adjusts have been specced.

Jet needle is at 4th position from top, air screws at 2 turns out.  (DeltaRider I'm setting this bike up to US specs!  EDIT:  DR knows this! )

What is my next troubleshooting step folks? 

A hammer may be a 3rd option....

When I bought the 500K1 cafe racer several months back, it came with an annoying leak from the overflow tube on carb #2.
It did this whether the petcock was on or off, which had me a tad perplexed.  Anyway, I eventually tracked half of the problem to hardened fibre washers on the M6 screws fixing the petcock to the tank.

Having solved this, I proceeded with my restoration (see here. )

I'm now pretty close to completion and took the bike for a ride or two without drama a few days back.

Mindful of the other half of the problem (#2 o'flow leakage with petcock on) I left the petcock on for a few days with a small container under the overflow tubes of all 4 carbs. During this time I thought I'd do a quick clear tube check of the carbs.  1,3 and 4 were all 2-3mm below the bowl face but 2 was ~6mm below.  At this stage there was no sign of leakage and I left the clear tube connected to #2 overnight.  Level the same, and still no leakage.  I removed the clear tube setup and replaced the plug.

This morning, I turned the petcock off for a while, came in later and turned it back on.  Within an hour or so, ~15ml of fuel had drained from the #2 bowl! 

Because this leak is NOT a regular thing, I'm a bit puzzled as to what the cause may be.
I'm thinking either an overflow tube crack, or a problem with the float needle (I'm leaning towards the latter).

I have no details of any work that was done to the carbs prior to my purchase, but suspect very little as the drain plugs were full of hard gunge (an Australian term  ) which I subsequently cleaned out, and the o-rings were crap (which I replaced)!

Regardless of the above, I reckon I'll probably have to pull the carbs and give them a damn good going over!!

What say you, oh masters of the carb overflow sagas and solutions? 

I've searched and searched to no avail!  I must be looking in the wrong places! 
Can someone please tell me the purpose of the clip? 
Thanks.

One of the photos I forgot to take before removing the old fender and caliper. 
Does the fender bracket go flush with the fork or wheel-side of caliper bracket?  I have a picture from the original manual but it's still not 100% clear to my myopic eyeballs!
TIA

Andy

Hi folks, I'm having a battle figuring out how to install the "pull" throttle cable on my CB500K1 at the throttle grip end. 
The grip housing is threaded, and the "pull" cable is also threaded, but not on a separate ferrule like the "push" cable is.  I should mention that the throttle housing is a new replacement.
Has the PO left me with a non-standard cable, or am I missing something?

Here's a pic of the cable at the throttle grip end.

Hi all,

I haven't posted much about my restoration since getting the bike so I guess it's time to provide some info.
I'm in Perth, Western Australia and acquired a CB500K1 which was converted to cafe racer style some 4 or 5 years ago.  The bike was in overall good nick but obviously some things needed to change to bring things back to original.

The duck-tail seat, lo-rise handlebars and mini speedo and tacho needed to be replaced.  Fortunately there were quite a few useful odds and ends that I got with the bike, and a subsequest purchase of a box of bits from another Perth local. 

So as it stands now, I have a seat (original base and foam covered with a DSS cover), a new set of RHS and LHS switches (another story... ) , a new handlebar and a bunch of other things like rear footpegs, new headlight and surrounds and a new 2-stay front fender.

I've been cleaning up the wiring loom and connectors, along with some other bits.

A close friend is restoring the instrument faces for me, so they'll be ready before long. 

And now to today! 

I removed the “sub-frame” containing the reg, rectifier, blinker relay and solenoid in order to clean things up.
The sub-harness turned out to be an absolute dog’s breakfast….one of the multipin connectors was missing altogether!
Thanks to the CMSNL diagrams I soon figured out that the rectifier module no longer had a multipin connector on it.  Instead, it was sloppily spliced into the sub-harness, with some of the connections just twisted together (no solder) and wrapped with cheap electrical tape.

Once I realised that refurbishment was going to be difficult, I took a heap of photos.  They’ll help with putting things back together, along with the wiring diagrams. 

I tinkered with the idea of getting hold of a replacement harness (which isn’t available anyway!) but then I’d have to source a multi connector for the rectifier.

I’ll strip the paint off the sub-frame tomorrow, respray same then set about putting things back together.  Won’t be too difficult, just not original….oh well!! 

I'll try to remember to take more photos in future.  If you want to see what the bike looked like when I bought it,  here ya go!