Post by: K2-K6 on November 24, 2017, 06:49:24 PM
http://www.hondatwins.net/forums/55-engine-discussion/33075-full-synthetic-oil-fresh-build-cb450-k0-engine-mile-0-a.html
The abovementioned link came up in discussion about ZDDP in oil. I don't know how many have read it being an interesting and different view of running one of these engines, along with attempts to mitigate some of it's perceived shortcomings.
I've been going through it a second time and intend to post on this thread my view of that study.
Worth talking about initially is some of the interaction which appears to lead to some conflict / confusion as to how contributors interact.
Initial posting by Jensen offers a question about if anyone is reading the thread and inviting comments as it travels along.
When one contributor "Mydlyfcrysys" contributes, it ultimately leads to that conflict. I thought he had a very valid view of viscosity in particular and found his posts well informed and relevant.
It's a shame that this resulted in his inclination to cease giving input, also that the originator ultimately appears to accept that there was some things to consider from Mydlyfcrysys.
I can see that the originator sets out to complete his test based on a series of modifications, and wishes to see that through to quantify what affects that has on the various engine components. But some of the initial comments from him seem to wrong foot the other forum members.
It does weave a broad set of test conditions as there are a few changes from specification, making it slightly complex to unpick in order to analyse.
I'll follow with posts in splitting it up as I interpret it.
Post by: K2-K6 on November 24, 2017, 09:55:46 PM
The view given particularly of using synthetic oil in this age of engine is valuable. As he points out, many people offer opinion of this without direct experience or knowledge of attempting it. So very often the same old reason of clutch slip is rolled out to oppose even any thought about what is a very valid question. To test and record it is far more useful and productive, even if, as he points out, it ultimately does or doesn't work. Real evidence is created to prove in this case that it hasn't the detrimental effect that everyone predicts.
Thankyou to Jensen for such an illuminating record. Just from the photos and recorded experiences while riding the bike it's a great story.
As he also points out, the whole point of starting this was for himself, with his bike, that he wants to run reliably and enjoy. We are looking in on it, but realistically he achieved most of what he set out to do.
It's not for me to judge how he views his own case, but I think there are some important points I'd disagree with from an engineering point of view if you were to apply it to your own bike.
Post by: MrDavo on November 25, 2017, 12:59:51 AM
The question of modern synthetic oils has been discussed at length in air cooled Porsche forums which I frequent, where clutch slip is not an issue, the consensus is that your engine parts will last much longer, but the oil will be trying to make a bid for freedom through oil seals never designed to contain something so slippery.
Post by: K2-K6 on November 25, 2017, 03:04:56 PM
I've chosen to post about it on here rather than disturb the original thread for those that are running this type of engine.
There's not the intention to criticise the original, I hope it's not considered in that way. More that the original is so detailed with each effect reported it opens up a much further scope of discussion.
He seems a very interesting person with the confidence to form and carry out his own testing. I'd like to meet him.
Post by: K2-K6 on November 25, 2017, 03:45:25 PM
Two things for me stand out in this area, there's a position of super diligence applied over both tappet clearances and oil condition. My feeling is these play an absolutely vital role in keeping any camshaft / valve train from undesirable wear. That's over and above any other criteria.
You can see from the long term data that the valve clearances generally diminish by very small amounts. That indicates that the original design and material integrity are able to support the intended use. Making the assumption clearances close up due to the valve face and seat wearing under normal duty cycle, the changes he records entirely support that view. If you had any wear in the train components from friction, then the clearance would be increasing.
The above, in being as I see it, normal, demonstrates the risk area in running one of these engines from assembly. If you let that clearance disappear, resulting in the follower running all the time in contact with the cam, then it will have one of the greatest influences over cam life.
Valve train designs contain the springs already pre loaded and held in compression by their geometry. If you run the cam with even the slightest valve lift on the base circle of the cam, it subjects the surfaces to the full force (virtually) of the spring rate. Decent sized valves with rpm getting to 10,000rpm is always going to need fairly high rated springs. This would challenge even the most advanced oil you could ever use in there, it's to be avoided at all costs.
It's absolutely correct to be so so diligent with these settings.
Oil condition is the real partner to the above. The shear loading of the oil is most challenged at this interface, any degradation in film strength will be punished at this load site. Any dilution of the oil with contaminants will compromise it's ability in this field so all measures to preserve it's original condition should be considered.
This is another area that diligence is paramount, jetting the engine to run correctly and burn it's fuel efficiently. He makes the observation about setting up and checking the carburation to get it correct. If you run with standard intake setup then you have a good start point with specified jetting etc. If you run any engine too rich it will pass unburnt fuel and combustion byproducts past the piston rings and into the oil. It's this that compromises the oil performance.
Ultimately, I believe, it's this point that the oil changes are relatively short interval on bikes of this era.
Again, diligence in this area is vital to the oil performance.
Post by: SteveD CB500K0 on November 25, 2017, 06:44:56 PM
Even the really long ones.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: K2-K6 on November 26, 2017, 06:39:23 PM
As others point out, there is no real quantifiable, totally within normal specification engine, run through the same routine, to compare.
I feel it's entirely correct to make such an effort in setting the valve system to optimum ex factory spec. It also seems to me that to run with slightly larger tappet clearances during its initial running, post build term, has potentially big longer term positives. I'd do the same.
If you were to plot the loss of valve clearance against mileage and then compare to the servicing interval / specification published by Honda, you could observe if any wear would be controlled by that schedule and so prevent the followers riding on the cam base circle. The first service must, by expecting the most movement during initial mileage, must be looked at as one of the most critical.
I think the jetting setup is also a very valid point in contributing to the oil condition. In this country we seem to use a dyno only for engines that are modified in some way. A routine check to really see what a standard bike is set to, can only give a more informed view of something you may have invested alot of time and money in.
You can see a very interesting parallel regarding this area in cars. As they moved to improving their emissions and ultimately a far better control of fuel air mixture, they've been able to extend the oil change intervals as combustion contaminants are hugely reduced.
CV carbs are much better than slide at giving asymmetric fuelling that facilitates this invoice engines, but you'd certainly have to verify what they are delivering.
As Mydlyfcrysys says, it looks that by being so scrupulous in building and adjusting the engine then it's likely it would have succeeded whichever decent oil had been used. Jensen has taken out all the main issues before considering the oil.
Post by: K2-K6 on November 26, 2017, 07:44:57 PM
Oil pressure relief as I understand it is, in any engine, there to protect the oil pump drive in the event of too much hydraulic pressure not being able to escape the oil feed architecture.
If you are running for example at high rpm and the system overpressurises from too little leakdown, then if the oil pump is unable to force the oil through the system it can shear the drive method. There's too much mass in the crank going round to stop that rotating. The pump would be compromised as it's a much weaker component.
Changing the oil viscosity upwards would also have increased that risk, especially when up to temp and running fast.
You can't tell from the data what causes a change in engine BHP output when comparing the different viscosity oils, but only one, general engine friction from having a thicker oil on components was considered. I'd look at it as far more likely the energy was more associated with driving the oil pump itself, it will just consume more energy to pump thicker oil.
So it was running, thicker oil, higher capacity pump and no relief valve! I think he felt lucky he hadn't seen a failure.
Post by: K2-K6 on November 27, 2017, 08:41:47 PM
As some other poster's pointed out, it's realistic to consider the whole system if you look at modifying any part of it. The later posts indicate that with 10/40 oil and std pump it will succeed it activating the pressure relief valve at higher rpm and hot oil.
This shows that by increasing the pump delivery rate it can't change oil flow in that region, just more of it will bleed out through the valve.
It looks from his observations the cold running pressure relief is in response to oil viscosity increasing at those lowered temps, obviously in combination with system restrictions.
The hot release though, shows that the maximum flow of the system peaks before maximum revs with the pump going on to deliver excess flow above that threshold. This is the true system maximum flow, and what the other poster's are saying. Just putting higher capacity pump / delivery can't increase the oil throughput beyond a certain point.
For that CB500T oil pump, if you wished to increase the flow to the camshaft and altered the route to that area by increasing dimensions, then you'd get a corresponding decrease in oil pressure for the 450 pump. You could then increase the pump delivery rate, as they did, pressure would go back up and you'd still have a balanced system but with increased flow to cams.
Post by: K2-K6 on November 27, 2017, 09:24:49 PM
Stated reduction in oil arrival time from 40/60 secs down to 20/40 secs suggested, as he observes, that the drain down of the system after last use is affecting this. If you create a partial void in the system, then the increased delivery of the 500T pump will simply fill the void in shorter time. It seems reasonable that his view of the filter system bleeding back into the sump is possible.
It's like having a full hose pipe, turn on the tap and what's in the pipe immediately comes out the other end. Conversely, empty hose pipe, turn tap on and count the secs while water travels through the system.
Although still with what appears to be a long supply time, the subject engine surpasses 30,000 miles with virtually no observable component wear. This has always been an area of interaction in which ZDDP is most useful.
I doubt if the tested oil has any appreciable level of it though. It's very difficult to gain that sort of information.
Added further thoughts; it would be worth considering the effect of using 500T oil pump and pairing it with 0w/30 viscosity oil to get higher flow but limit the excess pressure concern by capping viscosity max.
Post by: K2-K6 on November 28, 2017, 11:12:58 AM
Using car specified oil as opposed to motorcycle specific.
Change oil to synthetic.
Change of oil viscosity.
Change of oil pump.
Change of oil filter type.
Deletion of pressure releif valve.
Change of oil service interval.
External filtration of oil.
Increase of starting valve clearances.
Fitment of magnet in sump.
Change of cylinder bore honing method to plateu.
How to judge the effect of these as they interact is no small task. It would certainly keep a R&D department busy, even in descrete multiple engine examples.
Some of the effects are certainly evaluated more clearly but it more easily obscures those which may be detrimental. Or something detrimental may negate a positive, in which case it would be easy to dismiss something that could be of benefit.
Post by: UK Pete on November 28, 2017, 03:23:43 PM
Post by: K2-K6 on November 28, 2017, 04:26:42 PM
MrDavo, I'm of a similar opinion regarding oil type and will work my way towards that after trying to get all the other stuff out of my head and onto paper, as it were.
I think that Jensen made a fascinating project which I'm trying to make sure I don't diminish. But I do think that a view from perhaps a different angle can be complimentary to things like this. Hopefully it'll be seen as something of a peer review and constructive, that's what I'm aiming at.
Nigel.
Post by: K2-K6 on November 28, 2017, 10:38:54 PM
I'll say, it looks to me, like the centrifuge type holds an advantage over the paper type as that's what published data indicates.
Its any easy view to project that newer (paper cartridge type) filtration method would simply be better than an "old fashioned" rotating filter. But it seems generally that paper type, without special arrangements will be filtering down to about 10 microns particals size. The centrifuge appears to operate around 3 micron. How true that is would be down to specifics.
It looks like deletion of the centrifuge would have originally taken place for production bikes as it's simply cheaper to not include a chunk of engineering from the design. Replaced with a filter element, in an external chamber that can help to cool the oil while reducing production and design costs seems attractive. It doesn't look like it happened for filtration reasons.
I know the original thread examines the ability to remove particals as part of the decision, and I can see that if you use 60 viscosity oil it could impact that performance, but so will trying to push that increased viscosity through a paper filter.
It doesn't appear to make sense as a modification to these engines. Perhaps someone else can offer a move informed view.
In addition, if the type of pump is giving pulsed oil pressure rather than linear there seems to be some opinions that may impact a cartridge / paper filter.
I'd be inclined to side with the opinion that Honda knew what they we're doing as opposed to modified part without understanding completely what this mod offers as an improvement.
Post by: AshimotoK0 on November 29, 2017, 07:49:42 AM
Cheers ... Ash
Post by: K2-K6 on November 29, 2017, 01:11:26 PM
If we open up discussions about it then the route through what really happens should be more clear for others looking in.
As Jensen points out with his posts and tests, sometimes it's going to define that which you don't want to do. It's always going to deliver something of value.
Nigel.
Post by: K2-K6 on November 29, 2017, 02:17:54 PM
The projection was that the oil contains small abrasive particals that come from internal wear, which continue to refine the moving components if left in place.
My view is that process is completely wrong, I don't see what basis it has as it also leads to a curious decision regarding honing.
It's worth going through why the the bores are honed to see what should be happening.
When a bore is finished from initial machining it won't necessarily have either a degree of topographical accuracy or surface finish in place to be suitable for an engine.
Primary function of honing with rigid stones is to allow the stones to lay flat on the original bore and by their movement path they will correct any imperfections to bring surface variance to within required tolerance.
Secondary function is to leave that characteristic crosshatch pattern that will, long term, retain some oil during use of the engine to help lubrication.
Thirdly, and this is the most short lived property, it should be left by method and grit size, with the burrs resulting from essentially gouging the metal's surface, in place.
It's this "fault " that is going to cut / lap the new piston rings.
Going to the piston rings, when made ( we'll talk about rings from this era as things are different for much later engines) and as they are fitted to pistons, they, when placed in the bore, are not as round as the new bore. This means they won't seal as required.
Running in is how they are made to fit. Using those burrs left over from honing, the piston rings are, in engineering terms, lapped to fit their own cylinder.
It happens specifically by the burrs breaching the lubricating oil and cutting the ring material. If you hand grind a wood chisel on on a flat oil stone, this is exactly the same process. The oil acts as a soap to allow the abrasion to work, also to remove debris from the lap site.
The practical limitation of this comes as the burrs ultimately break down and dissappear from the bore surface. This would probably be finished by about 300 miles of engine life with normal production materials.
It's this process that defines the running in period of these types of engine. It's probably certain that it's mostly over by the time you get 500 miles and prompts the first oil change to remove any of the byproducts of this event.
What happened here was that based on that first theory of bedding the engine in, it becomes clear right at the end of the thread that he chose to plateu hone for the bores from the outset.
What this means is a much further refinement of the honed surface to closely approximate a perfectly, post running in bore surface that is used in current engine production methods.
It might sound like the best quality that can be achieved but needs to be paired with piston rings prepared for that eventuality.
This though gives a problem with the rings that need the old type hone to be properly brought into service. What the current engines do is to pre-lap the piston rings, and so avoid the initial running in procedure.
It's suggested that it's because the oil is of such film strength that the rings take a long time to seal, when in reality the original hone method is designed to breach any oil film.
It's a fleeting transaction and a fine balance but that is how it takes place.
It's not a surprise that it took 7000miles before he thought the rings were sealing.
Post by: UK Pete on November 29, 2017, 04:34:37 PM
Post by: K2-K6 on November 29, 2017, 09:58:11 PM
In the tested example, every effort is made to filter the oil far in excess of normal running by passing it through external filtration along with replacing the engine's own filter at fairly short interval. You'd have to consider that this would directly oppose the particals theory.
But much more basic than that, the piston rings are the only part you really need to wear any appreciable material from to make them seal as effectively as possible. Oil with abrasive would not be selective in this way and it's correct to make every effort to reduce any real chance of it happening.
A general abrasive in the oil longer term would be highly detrimental to all other bearing tolerances throughout the engine.
Conventional running in period is constructed to take advantage of that hone / lapping effect, distributing the removed material into the oil and filter, then discarding both when the bulk of any change has been reasonably allowed to complete. It's one of the most significant sectors in the engine's life, completed properly it'll be run in a much cleaner status from then onwards.
Post by: jensen on December 02, 2017, 11:16:14 AM
Found this post after ashimotok0 pointed out. I thought I was registered to this forum, but it was the other one, the SOHC/4 site. I was active there under the name supersports400. Written one large thread about my CB400F, http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=65233.0.
Intresting views and comments on my thread here, I will certainly respond when I have a little more time on my hands.
Jensen
btw, this is my SOHC4:
[attachimg=1]
Post by: K2-K6 on December 03, 2017, 11:24:36 AM
As I originally wrote at thread beginning, I found your experience and recording of it fascinating. My aim here was to expand some of the points based on my own thoughts about the impact of using synthetic oils in this way.
I believe, as you do, that there is a whole raft of disinformation about using synthetic oils in place of originally specified types. These seem to be perpetuated generally on threads around the world with no good or scientific basis. It often makes me wonder if you need to look after a camshaft, why then accept some casual reference to clutch slip that would prevent you following the most productive choice to preserve the valve train components.
It seems so many comments are made based on obscure sentiment rather than any sensible evaluation.
Any input you may have is certainly welcome, although you appear to contribute a fair amount of your time in making your own threads. I hope I don't compromise those.
Nigel.
Post by: jensen on December 03, 2017, 12:01:41 PM
I agree, how could I not. I have dismantled many 450 engines the past decade, and all have more or less the same issue's. Looking at the damage, anyone can tell, even with an untrained eye, that lubrication is (one of) the culprit(s). However, there are some designer issue's too, particular focussing on the valve train and crank set-up. On top of that, the engine is very sensitive how it's handled.
My goal was to build an engine to spec, use a modern oil to break in the engine, and see what happened while covering miles. The changes I made are not dramatic, but going from the centrifuge oil filter set-up to paper filter set-up was mandatory using a modern detergent oil (no matter if synthetic or not).
Until today my bike is working flawless, no major damage to the cams and other parts. Every year I try to ride as much miles as I can, to make as many test miles as possible (and because I like to ride it).
Every time I adjust the valve clearance (once a year) I measure the clearance with a precision of 0,01 mm to see changes in the valve play. I do see that the left exhaust valve clearance is changing faster then all three others, despite the used oil. But the speed of wearing out is much lower then all the examples I have seen.
I do ride a lot of highway and back roads, using the bike as they did in the past, as a rider, not as some show bike, low revs and short distances. I don't take the bike to classic rides, since the average speed is very low, and high way's are commonly avoided.
[attachimg=1]
Post by: jensen on December 04, 2017, 09:55:27 PM
Working through your comments, I stumbled upon this sentence : "It's not a surprise that it took 7000miles before he thought the rings were sealing".
What do you exactly mean by "thought" ? I measured the that the maximum compression was reached at this point (and a leak down test gave the lowest leakage at this point), and I suspected that this was due to the seating of the rings. The leak down tests also show that this is the case.
I have to say that your comments are precise and well build up arguments, I was hoping for this kind of quality of comments at the Hondatwins site, but unfortunately just a few comments were worth the effort. Writing a thread like that should give the writer energy, unfortunately, it started to cost energy, not giving it. Another reason I did quit, is that I got a few not so nice private messages regarding this and other threads I started.
btw, I did not quit the tests for the general comments, I found that not many people where really reading it, so I stopped writing in depth details about the process.
Post by: K2-K6 on December 04, 2017, 10:35:24 PM
I'll expand, you've judged that it reached optimum condition based on your compression measurements at around 7000 miles. I'd expect to see that level of completion at around 750/1500 Miles with the hone more conventionally completing it's work by that much shorter interval.
Hope that explains, if not just say.
I guess it's part of writing on here essentially unedited, I go back over it to make corrections but some of it maybe slightly odd emphasis.
Nigel.
Post by: K2-K6 on December 06, 2017, 01:32:32 PM
The engine speed asked for by manufacture and layers put in, usually increasing speed steps, is something I believe is very misunderstood. As far as I can determine from engineering principle, it's predominantly the linear speed of lapping that calls for limits of rpm during this period.
More specifically, you've a fixed pressure exerted by the piston ring spring action, ideally you'll have an optimum piston speed ensuring that the linear lap speed doesn't exceed a predetermined maximum. This is of course usually given as max rpm. The first miles of using new bore and rings is going to be the most productive, purely because the maximum cut from hone is available.
Interestingly honing is not considered to be heat generating, seems only 1 to 2 degrees is typical. It's this characteristic that can make it such an accurate method of precise component finishing.
It's commonly given that engine rpm restrictions are to prevent too much heat, I'd disagree with that. Certainly you'd not want to overheat a new engine, but then the same applies to any engine throughout it's life.
Post by: K2-K6 on December 07, 2017, 06:46:59 PM
I was just looking through the link to crank preparation that Ash has posted over on the cl450 rebuild thread and saw in much more detail what accumulates within there.
Another question, if you smell the oil after it has run in your engine then compare that smell to new oil, is there a noticeable difference between the two, if so how would you describe the change?
Post by: jensen on December 10, 2017, 09:47:52 AM
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based on your compression measurements at around 7000 miles. I'd expect to see that level of completion at around 750/1500 Miles with the hone more conventionally completing it's work by that much shorter interval
Yes, but I wasn't surprised, and knew upfront that it would gonna take a long time to reach the maximum compression. When looking for example to the BMW flat 3 and 4 cylinders (K-series), one of the complains was that these bikes used a lot of oil from new. It took a long time before the rings were set, something around 4 to 5 K km. These BMW's used synthetics from the factory as I remember, and there where a lot of discussions going on. Nowadays, all engine are machined to perfection, with very low tolerances, and using synthetics from new.
The CB450 is an old bike, made in a time that precision wasn't that high, and breaking in was a process to correct a these mis-matches between parts in general. The process of breaking in was much more important than it is now, a lot has changed. This was also the reason for me to experiment with breaking in on synthetics.
Using synthetics in my classic bikes is a no-brainer for me since I've seen the effect of using this kind of oil in an engine. Many years ago (1997) I bough a new XRV750 Africa Twin, and before starting the bike I changed the oil to synthetics. Since then I always used synthetics in this bike, thus including the breaking in process.
I travelled many kilometres on this bike, and in 2017 I sold her with 360.000 km on the odo. Every year the bike was on the dyno, every year I tested the compression, and between 8.000 and 10.000 km it reached the maximum compression. In the beginning the bike used oil, but stopped using oil around 8000 to 10.000 km. The last compression test at 345.000 km on the odo showed that the compression was still very good (way within the specifications). The bike didn't use oil in an amount that I had to fill up between oil changes (8.000 to 10.000 km).
The only engine parts I had to replace were the clutch plates at 220.000 km's. The other thing I changed on the bike were the spark plugs, I went from normal spark plugs to Iridium ones. Since the XRV has two plugs per cylinder, the costs were very high in the 90's, but I didn't have to change those either every time (however I checked them every year).
Quote
if you smell the oil after it has run in your engine then compare that smell to new oil, is there a noticeable difference between the two, if so how would you describe the change?
It smells good, but since that's an indirect measurement and depending on emotional and physical health, it doesn't say not much. I didn't smell gas / petrol, but it doesn't smell the same as new oil. The colour is much darker too.
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is your view of filtering the oil so thoroughly influenced by that oil "debris" that collects in the crankshaft oil distribution channels?
Since the high detergent power of modern synthetics, debris is not collected in the crank or in a spinner filter (the oil just cleans the spinner filter), it collects the debris in the paper filter itself.
A substantial part of debris in the oil are clutch plate particles, the other is waste of burned oil and fuel leaking through the oil rings. The larger particles of the clutch plates and the other debris are caught by the paper filter, the smaller parts are pumped trough the engine.
I use an external filter setup because the filter setup from Cappellini Moto uses a paper filter which is too small according to me (there is just not enough room to place a bigger filter). The used filter (from a Suzuki motor scoot) is just a single layer of paper, and not like many larger oil filters for cars, multi layers.
Post by: K2-K6 on December 11, 2017, 12:51:50 PM
That engine series as far as I know used Nykasil plated bores which differ significantly from iron examples, also using different piston ring specs to match the bore surface.
In addition, the layout gives particular problems with the bores laying flat which appear to gives poor oil evacuation from cylinder walls. It know they struggled with them in development terms ( I rode a 750 but not the 4 cylinder) with the " sump" very close to the crank which doesn't appear to help clear oil from moving parts.
They also put the cylinder head on left of bike so when left on side stand any oil running out of the crank assembly, after switch off, collects in the cylinders next to the rings. Think they end up pinning some of the rings like a two stroke to prevent the ring gap being on the lower side of the piston.
I think if you run any bore with more oil than ideal in it, then it would influence the rings bedding in rather than the oil type. It looks to me that to attribute any short comings to the use of synthetic oil in this engine gives the wrong impression.
It just looks like too many compromises in design to really evaluate oil type during run in and the affects it could impart.
Ultimately a dead end development wise for them, too many compromises. I don't feel it should influence decisions for a move conventional layout and bore material.
Post by: Bryanj on December 12, 2017, 07:17:55 AM
Post by: K2-K6 on December 16, 2017, 12:00:18 PM
Also something that I was approaching there with my question to Jensen about oil smell, that was right in the assumption I was looking for fuel contamination that degrades the oil most on bikes I think.
Just listening to the newer big commercial diesels you can hear just how accurate the injection systems are nowadays. The very small amounts metered, especially at low speeds makes them really quiet. Also significant is the mpg you stated, that's pretty impressive to move that total load. Shows there's not much fuel going to waste.
I can see the conundrum Jensen faced regarding oil choice as wearing in of the bore and rings is a process that's diametrically opposed to trying to not cause wear to the cam. It seems that, for this 450 engine, those two areas could not be more distant in pure engineering terms. How you best achieve both at the same time is bound to bring up considered discussion.
Post by: K2-K6 on December 24, 2017, 03:12:13 PM
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c3-tech-performance/3072456-motor-oil-wear-test-and-lab-test-data-7.html
I've posted it for the ZDDP over on the thread specifically about that, but here the relevance I feel is most strongly associated with the post #140 which certainly gives a differing look at viscosity effects.
Post by: jensen on April 02, 2018, 12:44:51 PM
I'll keep you informed about the wear in the engine, as I will measure probably mid summer and end of season.
I changed a few things to the bike for better handling and looks. I took the front-end out and did a complete rebuild. Going from 7.5W to 10W viscosity front fork oil. Front tyre changed in size, going from 100 to 90, just a little smaller to match the original looks. I took off the Hagon's rear chocks and changed them for NOS Koni's I found last year.
With the changes I made I suppose the bike willl handle just a little better in corners and fast turns.
As soon I will make my first ride I will shoot a few pictures, this is a picture of last year (Hagon shocks)
[attachimg=1]