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Messages - neilg
1
« on: March 21, 2021, 06:19:52 PM »
Because of the bigger bearing the engine sprocket is further away from the engine case by about 5mm, so chain alignment needs checking.
2
« on: December 17, 2020, 03:28:13 PM »
Thanks for this. I'm aware of the different A's and B's between the 41's and 42's. When looking down the throttle slide opening there is a definite difference in the machining with a wider flange either side at the bottom on those used on K7/8. It was just these last 3 digits that I was wondering about. My own thought is it might relate to some production related thing such as date or location of manufacture/assembly.
Have to say I don't have any issues with them, at the end of the day they are just a carb.
3
« on: December 16, 2020, 08:51:02 PM »
I know people hate them .... however, PD Carb serial numbers usually start PD41 or 42 then either AA or BB, followed by two other letters and lastly a symbol which looks Japanese. Can anyone explain what these last 2 letters and symbol relate to. Also anyone know if as long as they all start the same, eg PD41BB, is there any issue with these last 3 digits not matching to make up a set. (I'm getting one of my headaches coming on again)  Neil G
4
« on: December 16, 2020, 08:37:46 PM »
I think, (emphasis on THINK cos I don't have one to compare), that the 77 (K7) has a different curve on the tang so as to go around the exhaust which is lower on the K7. Try looking on Google images.
5
« on: December 10, 2018, 05:18:31 PM »
Yes Dave, the RCB was built on CB750 bottom end but had bespoke barrels and twin cam head that made the first iteration 16valve endurance racer.
That one had cams really close together as in this photo
(Attachment Link)
Then came the later RSC1000? (think that was it's designation) which was development of production 900 twin cam road engine that was the CB900 but a completely different engine to the SOHC.
That first post here seems to have grafted on the CB900 type head onto CB750 SOHC cases, which I've not seen before. So they appear to have made a hybrid out of production motors.
The brandy is not playing tricks 
I seem to recall a magazine article with the cases split and I'm sure it was a gear primary drive. anyone know for sure?
7
« on: November 04, 2018, 04:35:35 PM »
Mmmmm now you see why my head hurts 😢
8
« on: November 03, 2018, 05:31:15 PM »
In a moment of madness I have created a monster using an F2 motor with a K7 exhaust. So I ask myself, where should I start with the carbs. Should I start with F2 jetting due to the combustion chamber design. Or K7 due to the 4 into 4 exhaust design. I have to use PD carbs to keep in with the theme of the build so swapping for earlier types is not an option.
I need to rest now cos my headaches are starting again 🤔
Neilg
9
« on: August 22, 2018, 12:16:58 AM »
Actually I think I've sorted it. A closer look reveals the short end has a face that is flat whilst the long end has a rounded end. So it's short end into the head so the flat can bottom out.
10
« on: August 20, 2018, 08:50:43 PM »
I have a set of new exhaust studs to fit to my F2 motor. One end has a longer threaded section than the other. Can any one tell me which way round they are fitted.
ta Neil G
11
« on: June 08, 2018, 01:24:37 PM »
12
« on: March 20, 2018, 02:23:34 PM »
13
« on: February 26, 2018, 12:55:22 PM »
Powder coating like everything else doubtless comes in many forms and qualities......unfortunately for me; every experience I have had with this stuff has led me to hate it with a passion; it dulls and can't be polished properly, the surface changes colour at random giving a nice piebald effect, it's not as tough as it's made out to be and when it chips, make sure you touch it in or you will be peeling it off in sheets later.
I suspect it is popular because it gets into every nook and cranny, and it's cheap.......the problem is, when it does get in everywhere, it's the devil's own job to get rid of it later on. Don't let a leaky fuel tap drip on your black frame or the affected section will turn pale grey.....forever....DAMHIK. 
I sold this Norton five years ago and bought it back last week.....unfortunately, Norton powder coated the frames on these from new and they are a box section affair with a built in oil tank.....oh and the wheels....which started out as silver I'm told, they are now pale battleship grey.
(Attachment Link) #
Just in front of the rear mudguard on the faired models is a mud trap, the owners club forum has a number of threads which involve the powder coat failing at this point, rampant corrosion taking root under the coating and the first the owner knows is when he gets an oil leak from the tank.
Repairing that damage makes most tasks on our Hondas look like childs play. Go look at some street signposts or garden furniture that has been permanently exposed to the elements, you will likely as not see the powder coating flapping in the breeze and the underlying metal rotting for all it's worth.
I think powder is probably good for crash bars and lots of other applications, and it's probably fine on a classic that will only get dry weather use, and admittedly the stuff I experienced was a good few years old, so perhaps it's improved, but as a choice for a regular use bike instead of paint?....no....just my opinion of course.
Mick.
I have to say I've had the exact opposite. I first used powder coating nearly 30 years ago. I still Have that bike and it still looks good after nearly 80,000 miles. It still shines and only a few wear marks. I have always used TripleS at Bingley except for one job after I moved from West Yorks, I thought I would try a local coater on a Harley belt guard. I asked for A deep shine black and got a grey orange peel. Lesson learnt and I have since done the journey back to Bingley for my coating. It seems quite clear you get what you pay for.
14
« on: February 24, 2018, 11:30:23 AM »
15
« on: February 20, 2018, 12:16:16 PM »
I talked to the guy who does my painting some time ago on this subject. He is a professional custom painter and knows his stuff. He informed me that it was fine to paint over powder coating but the item needed to be warmed in an oven to a low temperature first to get the paint to key. However this was some time ago and I'm not sure if that is relevant to water based paints we use now. On another note proper powder coating is not just ordinary paint. It's a lot tougher and takes harder knocks. If yours doesn't then you're using the wrong guy.
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