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Topics - philward
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31
« on: February 07, 2022, 06:18:53 PM »
Just getting round to converting the CR750 back to starter motor and I'm short of the shim that goes between the starter idler gear and the crankcase (part number 28109300000 but not available new as far as I am aware).
Has anybody got a spare to sell me?
Or, if anyone has one off the bike, can you measure the external diameter and thickness please? (I can then try to buy some shimming). It will save me stripping my standard K2 down just to measure it!
I am sure I have asked this before (before I decided to fit the race alternator or when I built the K6 I done up and sold on) - but I've searched for the post but can't find it!
Thanks in advance
Phil
32
« on: February 02, 2022, 12:25:11 PM »
33
« on: January 26, 2022, 10:55:52 PM »
34
« on: January 06, 2022, 12:03:42 PM »
I am building a spare engine from all the spares I have in the shed. The crankcases have 1 stud missing (one of the shorter front middle front studs although they are the same as the front outer stud) - part number 90034300020
Has anyone got one to sell please
Thanks
Phil
35
« on: December 29, 2021, 01:15:47 PM »
36
« on: December 25, 2021, 08:32:03 PM »
37
« on: December 11, 2021, 11:35:39 AM »
One of the things that I find very frustrating when working on my bikes (particularly in winter when I can't wheel the bikes out onto the drive to work on them) is 'shadows' cast in the area from the garage lights exactly on the area of the bike where I am working.
I've tried a variety of lamps/lights/torches - magnetic, flexible and clip on, etc but never really solved the problem.
Whats your recommendations? (as Christmas is comomg - and link to that Christmas present thread)
Thanks
Phil
38
« on: December 09, 2021, 11:17:57 AM »
Just bought and read this short book (seen it advertised in article in Classic Bike on him a few months ago). Great racing and industry character who raced around the world Inc Daytona, IOM. It's a great short read - more of a bookazine than a book. I've finished with it now and might be good to pass around the forum, It cost me £15 plus postage - if anyone wants a read, I'll post (UK only - sorry to our overseas friends on here) for £5 and when they've read it, they can do the same. Just message me  Sent from my moto g(50) using Tapatalk
39
« on: November 16, 2021, 10:05:26 PM »
40
« on: November 01, 2021, 01:56:32 PM »
Just bought a Keyser carb kit for my 500k2 to try to cure mid range hesitancy (following recent post by Erny solving similar issue). Bought at £112 a set from Wilson Racing via eBay - bought from UK company at top of price range to try to avoid 'fakes'. When they arrived they were in Keyser branded clear plastic bags but no Keyster branded cardboard boxes (as per previous kits I have bought) How have members received packaged Keyster kits? If I contact the seller and ask if they are not genuine, he is unlikely to say so! I might just ask for a refund. Thanks in advance Phil   Sent from my moto g(50) using Tapatalk
42
« on: August 26, 2021, 07:57:42 PM »
Can anyone tell me what is the difference between 750F1 and the post K2 forks?
43
« on: August 16, 2021, 10:25:54 PM »
Just fitted Hondaman electronic ignition and during the initial points/timing setup prior to connecting the system, left the ignition on by mistake while I went in for lunch. After fitting and the initial ride, all was well - big improvement at tickover and low down power. However, on the ride back home, I noticed that the bike was missing very slightly at tickover. When home, issolated the miss to number 1 cylinder (could feel the 'miss' when putting hand over silencer). Reverted to standard points system, no change. Put electronic ignition back on and changed plug, suppressor cap and checked all coil LT wires around the coils but still no change.
Remembering leaving the ignition on and having had bad experience with aftermarket coils previously (coils on the bike are aftermarket), although a duff coil should affect 1 and 4 cylinders, wondered if the coil could go down internally on one of the HT circuits as a result of leaving the ignition on for half an hour or so. Changed coils to spare set of standard coils (that I reconned using Ash's coil fix method) tonight and miss appears to be solved. (when running in the garage tonight anyway).
Question for the electrickery experts (for my peace of mind) - can a coil go down on one HT circuit internally as a result of leaving ignition on?
Thanks in advance
Phil
44
« on: July 27, 2021, 10:47:07 AM »
One of the area's I am unhappy with on the newly built 500k2 is the fork action. I seem to remember when I had my original new 500k1 back in 1972, it picked up minor undulations - particulary at sub 40mph speeds. I messed with fork oil but never really got it right.
I'm now finding it the same and as I ride a lot slower now, its even more irritating! It uniformily 'patters' on smooth roads (bumps in the road seem to be absorbed fine). When I lightly depress the forks, there's a slight clunking - with no damping or spring resistant and this is the same when I lift the front end off the floor and depress the bottom sliders up and down. I'm re-checking the wheel balance later today.
Any suggestions - as the 500 forks have the rod screwing into the fork cap, I'm not that well up on these type of forks.
As an aside, I've decided not to take on another project this winter and concentrate on sorting out the issues that bug me on my SOHC's - 500/750 Forks (750 is no where as bad as above issue on the 500 but still there) - I'm looking into fitting cartridge emulators to the 750 but not an option due to the rods in the forks - plus some Hagon shocks (work great on the CR750 Rep). Also going to put a starter motor conversion kit on the CR750 Rep (special mod to the narrower race alternator)
Any help from the long term 500 owner and experts appreciated!
45
« on: July 10, 2021, 11:19:30 AM »
This just came up on my Google news feed - thought it my be of interest https://youtu.be/v4p6WavfJkoSent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk
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