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Messages - Orcade-Ian
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1051
« on: November 02, 2014, 06:21:41 PM »
Hi,
if you are absolutely confident that the lower end of the blade is seated correctly in the U shaped block in the tensioner arm and that block is fitted and seated correctly, then the blade will stick up (not sure exactly how much as I haven't accurately measured a new one recently) The next stage is to fit the top cap and press it down to put the curve into the blade to push against the chain (I usually use a wooden dowel for pushing as screwdrivers often slip) It's now relatively easy to fit the high tensile bolts - and I always loctite those. Then you can release the tensioner bolt to take up any slack. It will still need further adjustment when the engine is running.
Are you using new parts?
Let us know how you get on
Ian
1052
« on: November 02, 2014, 03:42:45 PM »
Hello again Ash,
I'm in Orkney, retired here about 8 years ago. It will be the black body kit I'll be parting with.
The reg is FRN which was issued in Preston as an age related when I registered it. As an import and very early bike, the Dvla gave it an M reg, which means it's Tax exempt from next January 1 - their stupid system finally came up with the goods - yippee! There are some pics of the bike on the 400/4 section. I remember Patrick Ritchie. Don't recall the RILEY names though. As you read, we are having a reunion next July, so we might get chance to meet up for a natter. I still have some relatives and friends in and around Hull.
Regards, Ian
1053
« on: November 02, 2014, 01:32:00 PM »
Hi Ash, Yes, I'm from ull,  I well remember those places, ah! Jack Ritchie's - can you still get a Norton Featherbed frame for£15? I also remember Lucas and Wasling in Hardy Street - a bit more up market. I grew up with bikes in the 60's, perhaps we have some common acquaintances? I have just bought back a 400/4 from my Cousin in Hull - our local couriers are collecting it next week. You may have come across it, I painted it in metallic black with gold lining, just like a Velocette, about 10 years ago. I may sell the tank and side panels as I have a brand new varnish blue one and panels to match. The bike's not perfect, but very presentable, so that's 2 400/4's to play with now. Cheers for now and thanks for the bump, Ian Btw, the handle is a bit of a play on words - Orcade Ian, not pretending to be Orcadian! Drop in if you are passing! The kettle is usually warm 
1054
« on: November 02, 2014, 11:14:15 AM »
Hi Ash,
I've been a member of the VJMC for a good number of years and met quite a few good friends along the way. It's a matter of personal choice. Writing an odd article also brings the benefit of a couple of months free membership and allows others to have the info - just the same as this excellent forum. As you might glean from a quick look at my own site, I'm also into other bikes and cars and as a time served Aircraft Engineer with a well equipped workshop, I tackle most jobs deemed impossible (read too expensive) by the dealers and other 'experts' and usually try to engineer out some of the known weaknesses in designs by accountants when doing a rebuild. Now retired and living in Orkney, I have more time to play!
Ian
1055
« on: November 02, 2014, 09:08:07 AM »
Did you have the throttles wide open when you did the compression test? It makes a big difference if they are shut, as the cylinder has difficulty gulping enough air to actually compress.
Also, my spare 350/4 engine - which I'm using in the bike at the moment - had less than normal compression and I glaze busted the bores and used the original rings. It doesn't use oil and now has a healthy compression. This was a stop gap measure until I get the original unit back in but it is absolutely fine - I was out on it yesterday.
As some of the others say, the cam chain tensioner is the part to rectify - but they are easily repairable as outlined in my article in the VJMC magazine. Also many folk don't remove the rotor from the crank, saying it's OK to lift out the crank with it attached. I never do it that way as you cannot then renew the crank seal on that end - having spent all of that time and money on gaskets alone, you could be spoiling the ship.
I am writing an article as we speak for the VJMC mag on the rebuild with pics of my original engine, and it will appear in full form on my web site too.
Hope you get sorted with your winter work,
Ian
1056
« on: October 26, 2014, 08:24:45 PM »
I think the 30 year tax exemption is a good thing, but I don't mind someone looking over my cars and bikes to make sure I haven't missed something. That could be done every 2 years on classics. Having said all of that, if we took a straw poll of all of our acquaintances collectively, how many have had an accident which could TRUTHFULLY be attributed to vehicle failure. I've bought many accident damaged vehicles where the cause of the so called accident was a NUT loose on the controls. It's driver education that needs improving.
All this elf an safety bullspit is having a bad effect on the gene pool - the ones who would have previously killed themselves through stupidity are now surviving and producing more idiots.
1057
« on: October 15, 2014, 01:19:26 PM »
If this occurs only under hard acceleration it could be down to worn selector components, which are outside the main crankcases and accessible with the engine in - so that would be my first thing to check. All of that mechanism has to removed anyway if you end up having to strip the whole thing. Worst case would be that the dogs on the gears themselves have got rounded over and spit themselves out of contact under acceleration. If that proves to be the case, then unfortunately it is an engine out, complete strip and rebuild, with all the costs of gaskets, seals etc. even if everything else, other than a couple of gears is good. You don't need many special tools, just the rotor removal tool and a special socket for the clutch centre nut, but these are precision built units and care is needed.
Hope this helps
Ian
1058
« on: September 23, 2014, 01:20:06 PM »
Just thought I would update any 350/4 owners about the problem I've been having with the leaking fuel tap. I thought I'd tried everything - except for find a NOS tap, which are unavailable from the normal sources both here and abroad. I had obviously replaced the lever seal and even refaced the lever, plus added a thin shim under the clamp plate - it still dribbled fuel - enough to compromise the float needle valves (all new Keyster items) and pee fuel all over the floor of the workshop overnight. Enough was enough the other day after a lovely ride out, I turned off the fuel about half a mile from home and the following day it had filled up the chambers (with the tap still turned off) and then dumped a good pint or two out through the overflow pipes.
I realise that I still have issues with the float needle valves, but I needed to sort the tap pronto.
I drained the remaining fuel and removed the tank. On removing the tap from the tank (it's different from the 400/4 tap) I checked the washers under the screw heads and found one was swelled and split. These were new when I restored the bike but I think this bio-shite fuel might have taken its toll on them.
It's a peculiar set up, so the screws holding the tap to the tank were passing fuel into the small filter bowl and then straight along the pipe to the carbs. There were no external leaks around the tap.
I was loathe to just replace the washers with originals, so I annealed a couple of new copper washers and put those under the heads of the screws with a blob of Hylomar as insurance.
Reassembled and filled with fuel - hey presto, no dribbles!
Strangely enough the carb floats have also settled down as mentioned by Ash in another post. Even with the tap on and left standing - no problems.
I think draining the bowls allows so much angle on the floats that they might leak a time or two as there is a lot of sideways force as they come up to position, but at least that appears to settle down eventually.
1059
« on: September 13, 2014, 08:35:56 AM »
Hi Simon,
My Ultrasonic unit is more of an industrial unit (almost £300!!) - I can get the whole bank in the tank in one lump and I use a Bilt Hamber fluid diluted - the results are stunning.
I checked the floats for ease of movement, but didn't polish the pins and float mating services, so that's the first place to start. As for the tap, there are no NOS ones about and lever with the face which bears against the rubber seal is also unavailable. I lightly re-faced that tap face, which was very good anyway - no difference. I then turned a thin shim on the lathe to further compress the seal - still dribbled enough to compromise the float valves overnight. Surprising that yours leaked after re-build, then settled down - perhaps I might be lucky after the next strip/polish etc.
The fact that the bike ticks over smoothly at all times (except after increased fuel level in the chamber/s) is some encouragement - they are the smallest passages.
Regards,
Ian
1060
« on: September 12, 2014, 04:53:54 PM »
Hi Folks,
At the risk of hi-jacking this thread, has anyone had 'issues' with keyster float valve/seats? The reason I ask is that my 350/4 is playing up. A while since I used it after I restored it, but I have replaced the fuel tap seal (the 4 hole one for stop/reserve/on) I've ultrasonic cleaned the whole bank and replaced the needle valve/seats on all 4 and set the float height to 24mm with a home made gauge. No difference - the tap still passes a bit of fuel when off and random carbs leak fuel from the overflows - upredictable which one, but all 4 have done it at some time. Runs OK at tickover and pulls well unless you snap open the grip at 50mph in top, when it bogs down slightly before pulling to the redline - not the best way to treat a humble 350 anyway.
The leakage means that you dare not leave it without clamping the pipe and if you do leave it, it's obviously rich as hell on startup until the level drops back.
I'm thinking of asking Basil Fawlty to come round to beat it with his big tree branch!
Any other ideas?
Ian
1061
« on: February 25, 2014, 01:06:33 PM »
I have an almost new one on my 350 four and it's self coloured black plastic - not shiny and not matt, more like satin. The metal bracket is zinc plated and passivated in a dark green shade. The rivets are left natural aluminium if you want it exact. The one for my 400/4 is identical and in very similar condition. The paint you have on now might come off with stripper, but test it on the inside first to see if it changes the surface. If you try any mechanical method of paint removal, it will almost certainly mess up the surface so unless you want to repaint it in satin black, tread carefully.
1062
« on: February 19, 2014, 04:43:19 PM »
Hi,
I can certainly recommend Laser stuff - I bought an ABS rotor nut tool of theirs for my Jag XJ8, it was £24 plus post as opposed to the Jag one at £155!! It looks and performs exactly as the Jag one - good materials and workmanship.
I checked my rear wheel spindle on the 400 and it's smaller than the alternator rotor thread - so perhaps the bigger bikes spindle might fit, but that thread size is available if you can source a bolt.
Ian
1063
« on: February 16, 2014, 04:48:46 PM »
Hi,
I just went to check as I made one on the lathe for my 350 and 400 and it was M18x1.5mm pitch - that is not the 'standard pitch for 18mm diameter (that's 2.5mm) but is an alternative pitch, so a bolt might be obtainable.
If you have a mate with a metric screwcutting lathe he might be kind enough to make one for you. I also made a plug to go in the end of the crank, so that the extractor couldn't damage the internal thread. I have a vague recollection that a 750 or 550 rear wheel spindle was the correct thread and could be used to extract the rotor - someone might confirm this but I don't have one to check.
Ian
1064
« on: January 24, 2014, 04:02:00 PM »
I've been using Silver smoothrite (from Hammerite) in aerosol form for many years now on Hondas - everyone who sees the result says it looks like factory finish. I did the engine on my 350 Four over 10 years ago and it still looks great. I had a carb issue many years ago on that engine and there was a puddle of fuel sitting on the top of the crankcase. I cleaned it off, sorted the carbs and it still looks untouched. Like all of the other posts say though - it has to be thoroughly dry before use - at this time of year it's got to be assisted. There is a bit on my site about it. http://www.stallard-engineering.co.uk/stories/Bikes/Japanese/350four.htm I have also done the rear shaft drive box on my 1500 'Wing which is a notorious bad point and that looks great too. I recently did the crankcases on the 400/4 and they are looking good - but haven't run that one yet.
1065
« on: December 22, 2013, 12:15:24 PM »
Don't forget it's the exact BUILD DATE and not the date of original registration which is important for these MOT and VED exemptions - worth checking to make sure.
Ian
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