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Messages - neilg
46
« on: July 24, 2017, 12:09:32 PM »
Difficult to say from the info available. The ignition switch could well have been moved as it was awkward to get to inside the fairing. The left side handlebar switch looks wrong. Most copies were repainted Honda Britain 750SS, which came in white with either red or blue stripes. These were mostly registered the year after the original PRR came out to get rid of old stock and are generally on a T or V prefix. The PRR are usually on either S or T prefix with a black silencer. So avoid V reg PRR's. I also think that the cover behind the headlamps in the fairing had a different finish. The PRR was smooth whilst the 750SS had a rippled effect to it, but from the piccies I can't really see.
47
« on: June 30, 2017, 10:41:37 AM »
Do you have any one near who runs a dyno? When I changed the carbs on my BMW a few years ago I tried all the usual methods with runs and plug chops up and down the local by-pass but couldn't get it right. In the end I found the only way to get it sorted was to take it to a specialist. He ran it up on the dyno and sorted everything right through the range from tick over to full throttle. The work also included setting the optimum ignition timing etc. I appreciate the cost might be a put off but he did in a few hours what was taking me an eternity in guess work messing with buying and swapping different jets only to find it still wasn't right.
48
« on: May 06, 2017, 07:51:04 PM »
Has any one tried Soda blasting yet. I am presuming (always a dangerous thing) that any residue would dissolve with water.
49
« on: May 04, 2017, 07:32:55 PM »
Fascinating stuff when you mix n'match. Have to say I was very surprised when I started out on this project at just how much difference there was in the K7 frame when compared to earlier models, particularly rear of the swing arm pivot.
Many thanks for all your thoughts
Neil G
50
« on: May 04, 2017, 07:26:07 PM »
No need for that, just twat the thing in and friction will do the rest.
Is that a metric KiloTwat or Imperial Twats per Foot  Thanks for getting back neil
51
« on: May 03, 2017, 03:34:21 PM »
Back to Vapour blasting and cleaning up after, has anyone knocked the plug out of the end of the main gallery that sits behind the alternator. If so what is the process for fitting it back, do we centre pop it around the edges etc?
52
« on: May 03, 2017, 03:28:49 PM »
Think I'm with you. My plan was to use a F1 motor in a K7 frame. With the thought of the extra forces and the "weaker" F1 bearing perhaps using the chain/sprockets from the F1 would sort this. Again anyone any thoughts??
53
« on: May 03, 2017, 02:00:10 PM »
Just to add on from this, will a F1 motor go straight into a K7 frame without any issues to chain alignment. I see the final drive shaft is a different part number so would this need swapping. Anyone know?
54
« on: April 29, 2017, 02:55:01 PM »
That could be the tiny hole in the master cylinder blocking
Wouldnt that affect both sides though??
55
« on: April 28, 2017, 07:44:01 PM »
Does the right hand caliper actually line up properly. Honda machine the left side fork leg to suit but leave the right side untouched so it possibly is not in line.
56
« on: April 28, 2017, 12:48:09 PM »
Just to end this one, After many hours of fannying about I gave up and managed to find a new one some where on the continent, (hope we don't #@%$ before it arrives or the tax man will want his share).
57
« on: April 28, 2017, 12:37:35 PM »
Just to explain my thoughts, I tried one on a Kawasaki Z250 I was building. Although I had it set on the smallest bore setting it was still tight so the springs were loaded. As I pulled the trigger the whole lot was sent spinning in my panic I pulled the tool out and of course my finger was still on the trigger so it went faster and exploded into pieces when it emerged from the bore and sprung open as it spun, (I'm actually laughing as I type and remember this). I've never tried it again and the last time I deglazed bores was on an old Bonneville, (a real one not the latest pretend model). I did that by hand and with fine emery cloth though they are a bit more solid and not as precise as Hondas. I have considered a second attempt but if I did I would have some one hold the block on its side or clamp it in a vice this time. Remember the stones should be allowed to emerge from the bottom partly and not stop at the bottom as it would if you had it stood on it's base. And use plenty of oil to lubricate things. I think the issue is that these tools are really made for larger bores such as cars and not bikes, as I say even set on its smallest setting by the time it was squeezed into the small bike size bore there was quite a bit of tension on the springs.
Love to hear other peoples experiences wit these.
58
« on: April 28, 2017, 11:03:26 AM »
When you say honing the cylinders are you using an actual honing tool or a glaze buster type. If it's a glaze buster be very careful as to how you use it remember these are quite close tolerances that are used. Also keeping the thing straight can cause issues. I know they are supposed to self centre but as I say be careful, use a slow speed on the drill and work it up and down the bore to get the cross hatch. If you have an old set of barrels try a practice first on them.
59
« on: April 27, 2017, 08:12:03 PM »
It's just how Honda marked the rods and crank to cross reference the shell size for that particular crank pin and rod combination. It could have bee ABC /XYZ or whatever they just chose that combination.
60
« on: April 27, 2017, 07:58:17 PM »
I have rebuilt dozens of engines and never used any sealant on japanese motors except for the odd rocker cover where some models have no gasket and of course the mating crank case faces where I use blue Hylomar. I have never had an issues with leaks on any. I do grease paper gaskets, I know there has been loads of discussion on this, but I find it makes them more pliable and less likely to be damaged and also keeps them in place when fitting. I don't see the point of using sealant on rubber gaskets at all and can't understand why you would do this..
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