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Topics - Martin6
1
« on: December 21, 2023, 12:15:33 PM »
My seat has a couple of repairs, all along the outside edge of the top squares moulded seat pad. Another split has just opened up. I could repair it, but I think it will be a losing battle. I see a replacement at David Silver. Has anyone tried it? Is it comfortable? Does anyone sell stencils to add the 'Honda' on the back face? Lipstick on a pig, maybe 
2
« on: December 19, 2023, 01:50:31 PM »
Hi,
Having restored my frame I have some finishing touches. This black and silver sticker goes on the frame's steering head tube somewhere. Does anyone know the correct position for a UK 750K6?
3
« on: November 28, 2023, 10:54:29 AM »
I am looking for an unscratched black headlight bowl for a 750K6 (at least in the areas visible when it's.on the bike). I managed to scratch mine up in a stupid moment when replacing the steering bearings...  Not looking for concours, but as I've refurbished much of the bike (powder coated frame etc.), it would be a shame to go backwards on something so visible! 👍
4
« on: November 28, 2023, 09:06:15 AM »
I would like to paint my left side cover. It has been repaired, due to a crack in the usual place. I'd like to cover over the repair.
Does anyone no a good paint match for 1976, K6 Antares red?
Thanks.
5
« on: November 08, 2023, 10:45:04 PM »
My cylinder head cover is back on and I've tried to fit the new tacho drive seal. I just can get it to work.
I'm putting it in the hole / shaft that the drive gear spindle exits the cover into. I'm putting the seal in, flat face outward. It goes over the gear spindle and flat against the cover, but I can't then get the end of tacho cable in far enough for the lock screw to engage. It seems to need to go 2 to 3mm further in. It engages fine without the seal in there. I tried putting the seal in the other way round, with the cup end outwards, still no joy. The old seal is definitely not in there and the hole in the cover is clean.
Any idea what i'm doing wrong? I'm reluctant to apply too much force to pushing the tacho cable onto the seal, but I have pushed it reasonably hard and the seal seems pretty solid.
6
« on: November 08, 2023, 09:17:14 AM »
Split pin out and bolts removed, the centre stand spindle will not move. 2 days of penetrating oil made no difference, nor heat from my paint stripper. Any suggestions?
7
« on: November 05, 2023, 02:12:03 PM »
Hi,
Before I put my engine back into the frame, I want to renovate my frame. So im stripping everything off it. Apart from the centre stand, everything is now removed, up to the steering head. Bare frame. I have the wiring loom all free but still connected to the headlight. The headlight, bars, forks, guages, front wheel etc., everything attached to and in front of the steering head is currently assembled and on the bike, untouched. I think it is solely connected by the steering stem.
I don't need to do any work to the front end, so I would really love to avoid dismantling it all in order to get it off the frame. However, I do want to get to just the frame. Is it possible to do the front end all in one go? E.g. can I remove the chrome steering stem nut, use a C spanner on the steering race top thread, then remove the steering stem and bearing races, to release the front end as a complete unit?
Is this possible, anyone done it?
Thanks, Martin
8
« on: October 17, 2023, 09:17:52 AM »
I'm in the process of going through the top of my motor. I will be replacing the cylinder head (incl. valves) and cover, due to bad damage on the gasket surfaces of both (previous postings!).
As the engine is looking shabby, I've cleaned it up, down to bare alloy and am re-painting it. Before i masked off the old head, which is still on the engine, I checked the cam timing. It looks to be at least 1 tooth out. When it is at TDC, keyway at 12-oclock, the points are only at the 'F' Mark for 1 and 2. I think that means I've been running the bike at about 20 degrees(?) retarded?
It ran OK. No strange noises. Smooth enough, but nowhere near as powerful as my 1975 850 Commando. Is this the reason why?
I will check the pistons for any sign of valve contact. Could I have done other damage? What should I check?
Thanks.
9
« on: October 15, 2023, 09:56:19 AM »
Please, could you tell me the correct tap for cb750 spark plug holes? My set doesn't seem to have the correct one, so I'll need to buy or borrow.
Thanks
10
« on: October 10, 2023, 04:31:26 PM »
Hi All,
I've got some problems!
Photo 1 shows damage to the head to cover's gasket face, from a gorilla previously taking off the head cover (bottom left of photo). The second photo shows the same area on the cover. This was one of my leaks. Is there a sound way to repair this damage and get a seal?
The first photo also shows one of the cover screws still in the head. The screw head sheared. Penetrating oil isn't helping. I have the same problem further round, but this time the screw sheared at its bottom, right at the head face. The ez-out hasn't worked. Any suggestions on these?
The final photo shows how mucky the camshaft, chain, sprocket and valve gear are. Carbon and dirty oil, despite 3 oil changes in 1500 miles. Is this unusually dirty?
Helpful suggestions and advice would be appreciated. Feeling concerned about the state of my motor and whether I'm up to fixing it!
Thanks, Martin
11
« on: October 04, 2023, 05:04:53 PM »
Hi,
Can anyone recommend a suitable valve spring compressor for the SOHC CB750, please?
Also, are there any non-standard / special tools I'll need if I find I have to go deeper into the bottom of the engine?
Many thanks, Martin
12
« on: October 03, 2023, 08:19:43 PM »
Everything is disassembled for engine removal, apart from the tacho drive. I've removed the locating screw, but the cable does not budge. Absolutely solid.
Any suggestions, please?
If I'm unable to shift it, is there enough room to get the engine out with the tacho cable still in the head (disconnected from the tacho end)? Looks a bit too tight.
13
« on: September 27, 2023, 02:03:49 PM »
I've got to the point where i will start to address my leaking head. Before I remove the engine I wanted to check the compression. I started on a compression test yesterday. My battery gave up and again today after all night on a battery tender. In fairness, it has a manufacture date of 2005!
Are the replacements from David Silver good? Any other recommendations?
Thanks, Martin
14
« on: August 22, 2023, 03:19:20 PM »
Just went for a run. Stopped for fuel and the bike (750K6) wouldn't switch off, even with the key removed! With the key switched to off, the console lights stay on (ignition red and neutral green) and the headlamp is on, when switched to ignition, the sidelight in the headlamp also comes on. So something is going through the key switch. Switching round to the next notch has no different results.
I'm home now and taken the earth wire off the battery negative, to stop it running the battery down. .
Any ideas, before I dig deeper? The only unusual event was going over a sleeping policeman a little hard on the way into the petrol station. Otherwise, the bike ran great.
I suspect a dicey key switch. The only other thought is, a few months ago, I changed my right side handlebar switchgear. That all works fine (light switch, starter button and kill switch all work). But, could I have disturbed a particular connection within the headlamp bowl?
Appreciate input! 👍
15
« on: July 19, 2023, 10:50:23 PM »
1976, K6. Still going well and I'm enjoying my rides. Nearly 2,000 miles in the last couple of months. The bike hadn't had much use for many years and it seems to be smoother and punchier the more it's ridden.
Anyhow, both fork gaiters have given up. They are both more splits than rubber. Doesn't look awful, but I have replacements and a bit of time free over the coming week.
I thought I could just remove the front wheel, unthread the speedo drive, take the brake calliper off the other fork. Then loosen the pinch bolts and slide the forks down and out of the clamps (mudguard still attached) to get to the gaiters.
However, the Haynes manual starts with disconnecting all the wiring and removing the headlamp, then clutch cable, braking system etc.... Is there a short cut? Will the forks just slide out of the clamps and headlamp mounts without needing to do all that?
Thanks, Martin
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