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Messages - Mike_Berkshire
46
« on: April 23, 2024, 01:47:08 PM »
Its just too far gone. Smaller socket tried and it just broke away from the head of the bolt with a sprinkle of metal chips from the head. I think that I will try and remove the engine from the frame with the housing in situ and then try again when its on the bench and I have good access. Last resort will be to drill out/grind off (carefully) the remainder of the hex head so that the flange can be removed and then it should be possible to withdraw the filter housing over the oil bolt and then remove the remains of the oil bolt once the housing and filter have been removed? What a faff.
47
« on: April 23, 2024, 08:18:51 AM »
Im planning to lift the 550 engine out of the frame at the weekend and intended to take off the Oil Filter housing to make removal from the frame easier. The bolt on the oil filter housing looks horrendous, no flats left and I doubt a smaller socket tapped onto it would grip. I can probably get my large Molegrips on it but before I go down that route are there any tips for tackling this? I have given it a good squirt of WD and left it to soak in. Thanks
48
« on: April 21, 2024, 12:44:26 PM »
I don't think a scotchbrite pad will be aggressive enough. May be wrong, but I would expect that to be a long job and lots of pads. 240 grit wet and dry, used dry, might be better, but the creases and corners will be tricky, if you try to get all the paint off. I found the dremel, used with the flexible extension head and a range of brass brushes, worked quickly, got into nooks and crannies and didn't damage the alloy. I then went over once with some wet and dry to key it. Took me 2 to 3 hours to do and another hour to brush clear all the little brass tines off the floor. You do go through the brass brushes in that job.
Thanks. Im pondering over my engine before I take it out the frame next weekend. When you painted the assembled bottom end how did you deal with the bolts in the casings? Did you remove them in sections and re-torque after painting or mask them in some way? Thanks, mike
49
« on: April 17, 2024, 08:39:48 PM »
Hi, much excitement as my registration document has arrived today for my '76 CB550 import. DVLA turned this around in 2 weeks and one day - Im pleasantly surprised!
Knowing that it wont need a physical inspection I can now strip it down and start the rebuild. A very 'Newbie' question: is there are generally accepted order to strip down the bike? I guess I want to remove as much as I can before the wheels but welcome any advice. If there are any docs in the archive please can someone point me in the right direction? I have checked Aladdin's Cave and didnt see anything there. Thanks, Mike
50
« on: April 16, 2024, 08:12:06 PM »
I only had the head and cylinder block off, so I couldn't put it in an oven!
I took it back to bare metal with brass brushes in a Dremel.
Thanks for posting this. I am thinking of doing something similar with my 550 rebuild. I plan to rebuild the top end but not the bottom end which seems fairly sound apart from the paint. Do you have any tips for removing the old paint other than using a dremel & brass brushes? I was thinking of using a Scotchbrite pad or wheel to prep the surface before etch primer.
51
« on: April 15, 2024, 02:50:28 PM »
PS I would try to remove the caliper piston first by using the existing brake hydraulics to push the piston out as far as possible.
Thanks Ted. I have seen some useful clips on Youtube that all show forcing out the piston using the existing system. Given that my system is so grotty (see picture) do you think that hooking up a new master cylinder after flushing out the old lines is worth trying? The current master cyclinder is completely seized and I am sure the brake lines are filled with muck as is the master cylinder reservior?
52
« on: April 14, 2024, 08:44:46 PM »
On my long to do list is a rebuild of the grotty front brake system. I’m thinking that fitting a new master cylinder makes sense rather than a rebuild of the master cylinder. As for the rest of the system, is there a how to guide available anywhere I could follow? Also, are there any common mistakes I should be aware of? I have never done work on hydraulic brakes before. Thanks
53
« on: April 12, 2024, 02:12:03 PM »
Looks like the basis for a good bike, especially now it's running on all four. Is that how it came in the pic or have you removed parts? Twin stay front guard and different tank from mine - looking forward to seeing your progress with it.
Ian
I have the seat off and the final drive cover. I have been polishing the cover as I couldnt resist doing something whilst I wait for the reg to be done.
54
« on: April 12, 2024, 01:01:26 PM »
Just worked out how to select multiple pictures!
55
« on: April 12, 2024, 12:56:15 PM »
Welcome Mike,
I too have a 75/76 US import 550, shiny orange and bought from a well respected member on this very helpful forum. Used it a while last year and just rebuilt the front wheel with new rim, plated spokes and new tyre, so ready for the season! As the others say some pics of yours would be welcome and there will be plenty of help available.
Ian
Thanks Ian, here are a couple of pictures
56
« on: April 12, 2024, 12:52:00 PM »
The tube to the T-joint 1+2 should be 17 or 18cm long, depending of the model petcock your Cb550 has. The oldstyle petcock with the bowl requires a length of 18cm, the newer type 17cm. Ideal ID is 5,5mm.
After a long period of sitting you can expect irregularities. When carbs have been drained for a long period, O-rings at the T-joints will shrink and so - possibly - cause initial leaking. Usually the rubbers will regain their original dimensions, but I prefer to keep my carbs in a natural state, which is wet.
As far as problems with the floats, both valves and needles, tapping (gently!) the floatbowls with the stub end of a screwdriver can do miracles. Flushing the floatchambers by removing the drainscrews and then opening and closing the petcock can also help, or both methods combined.
Make sure the joined vent tube for carbs #1 and #2 is free and can vent to the open.
Thanks for all the advice - the problem turned out to be more basic than I thought. I noticed, with a fresh pair of eyes this morning, that the spark on 1&2 was not at the electrode but intermittently in the plug body. New plugs and its now firing on all 4. I wouldnt say its running smoothly but given that as soon as I have the bike registered Im going to totally strip it down, its good enough to convince me that there isnt anything seriously wrong with the engine which is good to know. All O rings in the carbs are new Viton seals as are the the ones on the fuel lines. I have some new 5.5mm dia Pearl fuel line I will fit when I put the bike back together again and will strip, properly clean and refurbish the petcock too.
57
« on: April 12, 2024, 08:10:29 AM »
Your remarks are contradictory. You say the floatbowls fill up and you don't rule out you've kinked lines.
If you're unsure, I'd begin by tapping (gently) the floatbowls with the stub end of a screwdriver to activate sticking float needles and/or remove dirt in between the floatvalves and their needles. Often this is all what it takes.
If you're sure the floatbowls do fill up, this is what I'd do.
Do a start attempt and then check the #1 and #2 sparkplugs. If the plugs noses are dry, fuel does not arrive. If the plug noses are wet, fuel does arrive and the problem is elsewhere.
If the fuel does not arrive, I'd leave the carbs where they are.
Unscrew the airscrews from the sides of the affected carbs (after writing down the position they were in) and spray carb cleaner using a straw in the openings and hope it will clean the slow jets. Reposition the airscrews and start engine. Maybe the carb cleaner has cleared the slow jets. I had success with this once.
If not. On a CB550 LH side I find it not difficult to just unscrew the floatbowls with the carbs in situ and then remove their jets for inspection. Long time ago I have replaced the 4 crossheads of every floatbowl by allen. Much easier. All maintenance/cleaning on these oldstyle carbs can be done with carbs in situ. It helps if you're familiar with what's inside though.
Thanks, a good point re the fuel lines. I have completely rebuilt the carbs so pretty familiar with whats inside and I did replace the JIS crossheads with allen screws so that should make things easier. I will go through the steps again today with more care as I was a bit rushed last night & may have missed something.
58
« on: April 12, 2024, 07:53:59 AM »
Whereabouts in Berkshire?
Steve (Wokingham)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Between Newbury and Oxford, just of the A34 Steve.
59
« on: April 11, 2024, 09:06:26 PM »
The other possibility if ht leads are correct is kinked fuel pipe to 1&2 or a blocked tap outlet to 1&4
Thanks! As the float bowls are filling I would have thought the fuel supply is good but I will probably need to get the carbs off tomorrow and can check fuel lines are clear and not kinked & I have some new 5.5mm dia fuel line I can use. To me the fact that the 2 failing cylinders are fed by the same fuel line suggests that the fault is linked. I blew out all fuelways and jets etc before reassembly but its possible there was some crud in the 1&2 fuel line that flushed through to the float needles or jets and clogged them. EZ start will be a good indicator.
60
« on: April 11, 2024, 08:50:42 PM »
One coil only runs cylinders 1 & 4 with the other coil running the 2 & 3 pair.
Easy to quick check, no numbers needed.
Another easy test, if you've any e-z-start or brake cleaner, you can put a little squirt into the cylinder via it's sync port while its running to see if that pot will chime in, obviously then indicates fuel absent on that one.
Thanks - Ill try the easy start tomorrow & i'll check the coil connected to #4 is also connected to #1 and the coil connected to #3 is connected to #2
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