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Topics - simonster
1
« on: November 27, 2014, 09:53:32 PM »
I would prefer to re seat or lap what looks to be an original 1.8 float valve and needle opposed to replacement. It may seat perfectly well, I'm not sure as the bike hasn't even seen fuel before today (whilst in my ownership). So while the carb is split it could be a wasted opportunity esp if it drains fuel once hooked up. Has anyone got any thoughts or words of wisdom?
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2
« on: November 22, 2014, 03:16:02 PM »
I have more or less the same set of float heights on each carb 16.5 mm left float and 18 mm right float ( within a few points of a mm) measured from the body to the top of the float body. I've read that the height should be 22mm and if so these are way off. Plus the difference between floats left and right are uniformly 1.5-2 mm out. Any logical reason for this? Cheers
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3
« on: November 18, 2014, 09:25:46 PM »
The front foot peg boots are pretty much warn out and I would like to replace them with slimmer profile rubbers which are are either compatible with the 500 k front footrests or something from another model which will still fit the step bars but have a less agricultural look ( sorry to offend the purists ). I do love the bike but the pegs are something else and resemble the pegs off a 50's Triumph.
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4
« on: November 17, 2014, 03:01:09 PM »
I'm rebuilding the carbs on my 500 k1 and I need to replace a broken plate B which holds carbs 1+2 carb screw adjusters together. The part number is 16139-323-04. I have tried DS who can source it from the sub continent for 97p plus postage but it will take upwards of 2-3 weeks to arrive. Just wondered if anyone had a spare knocking about? I can send out a self addressed envelope with cash to cover the part. I may need to fabricate one out of thin tin if there's no takers. Thanks in anticipation.
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5
« on: November 10, 2014, 10:05:33 PM »
I'm just rebuilding the carbs on my 72 500k1 which I think at some point in the past has been raced due to additional crudely welded rear set hangers. I bought it in a sorry state and I'm hopefully on the home stretch on a full nut and bolt cafe look rebuild which I started properly in February and has taken up many pleasurable hours since. I currently have the carbs split and would like to put them back to standard if possible, although I'm not sure if they will need jetting to suit the exhaust. All the carbs have the following fitted:
Needle 273004 with clip second notch from the top.
Main jet 100
Slow jet 40
Float valve 1.8
My aim is to gain motoring utopia, that is to say good power with optimum mpg..!! Pics will follow on this build from start to finish when i get the carbs fitted. These and the clocks to finish the build so nearly there. Cheers for any advice.
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6
« on: November 09, 2014, 12:10:22 AM »
I'm in the process of restoring the clocks on my 72 500 k1. I've opened the speedo by uncrimping the band and have ordered new decals. But I've got to the stage of removing the needle and have read two ways of safe removal, one being to prize the needle vertically off the shaft or the other to rotate the pin anti-clockwise beyond the 0 position. Has anyone tried either technique with any success?
7
« on: November 06, 2014, 04:59:47 PM »
I'm replacing the hardened o rings which air seal the carb manifold to the head. Will I need the hi temp viton o rings or will the standard rubber ones be ok. I'm guessing the running temp of the head is about 200degs and I don't fancy removing burnt rubber once they gone past their temp range!!. I've not tried to source them through DS as they aren't shown in their drop list and doubt they will supply.
8
« on: November 03, 2014, 10:13:16 PM »
I have split the carb rack to delve into the crusty interior of some very sad looking units. The float chamber and top gaskets are good but the o rings on the seat valve and main jet have disintegrated and those on the t fuel hose joint have hardened. I don't need a carb repair kit from DS or a full gasket kit really just the o rings. I can use an 8 mm x 2 mm on the t joint ( parts book says 7.8 x 1.9 ) but the o rings for s v is 5.7 x 1.3 and m j is 4.2 x 1.1 and standard o rings are 1/1.5/2 mm etc and 1.5 mm is just too heavy thickness to seat inside the chamber. Any advice on where to buy these individually rather than buying the full carb seal kit. I hate replacing anything that can be reused but will fall on the sword if necessary, so should I lose the cash or is there an alternative spending minimum £45?
9
« on: October 25, 2014, 10:17:54 AM »
I have rewired the loom with no issues on my 72 500 k1 apart from the indicator pilot light on handle bar light cluster. The wiring diagram I'm working with suggests the orange and light blue wires on either side of the cluster light is wired in parallel ie LB to LB and O to O circuits but this means creating a bypass to the handlebar switch and when I tried this it does cause a live feed albeit reduced to the opposite indicators. Logically the pilot light should be earthered from both LB (right indicator) and O ( left indicator ) circuits but am I missing something? Cheers
10
« on: August 25, 2014, 02:19:03 PM »
I have just spent a whole day removing peeling black engine enamel from the block. Standard remover wouldn't touch it so resorted to industrial starchem which took two heavy applications and lots of ventilation! I'm wanting s high temp silver and simonez vht looks just right and should be cured through running the engine. What is the real difference between vht spray can paint over enamel?? Trigger is this your expertise?
11
« on: August 21, 2014, 11:19:00 PM »
I have a 500 k1 with a push rod in two parts from the clutch adjuster to the clutch plate lifter,approx 4 inch and 6 inch lengths with tailored ends no burs. I know the parts book shows one piece. Is this a later mod or has the previous owner adapted two to save on the cost of buying a replacement. If so what are the con's of this set up. The clutch seems to work OK without any engine load but haven't ridden it in anger yet. The engine is on the bench at the moment so probably the best time to replace it depending on the advice?
12
« on: August 12, 2014, 10:18:59 PM »
I have changed the mag wheels fitted to my '71 500 k for standard spoked wheels. All fittings are present as per the manual but I have 5mm sideways play of the wheel on the front sprindle. The gap between the spacer and fork is the 5mm and can be seen clearly on the two attached pics. I'm thinking this shouldn't be any measurable movement and now wonder whether the front mag wheel may have been 5mm greater in width, unless someone can suggest another reason for this? Unfortunately I don't have the mag wheel to measure.
13
« on: July 27, 2014, 12:38:22 AM »
I have a crudely shortened brake pedal which would be perfect for a rider with size 4 boot...however, I'm a size 11, so I'm looking for a replacement. Is the 550, in particular the 75 model, brake pedal compatible with my '71 k1. Thanks for any opinion.
14
« on: May 01, 2014, 09:48:41 AM »
A simple question for members out there...is there a price range I should expect to pay or will it be stick to the mag wheels and not break the bank? Cheers for any replies.
15
« on: May 01, 2014, 09:35:49 AM »
Under the cam chain cover of my mid-renovation '72 500 k1, I have what appears to be four absent 6mm bolts. I've heard some models don't use them to hold the rocker shafts but these are threaded down and clearly was intended to hold bolts about 50 mm length. I've had her running under nil load, so confused as to why they are absent and how it runs apparently fairly smooth on tickover!! Any suggestions would be greatly received?
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