Honda-SOHC

A really basic question - to check the oil level is this done with the dipstick resting on the casing thread or fully screwed back in?

This evening I fired up the 400 from cold I let it run at between 2- 2500rpm for some 20 seconds then checked the front pipes.

Number 1 & 3 cylinder are virtually cold - number 2 & 4 nice & hot.

So where do I start to diagnose what the problem(s) are please?

An Idiots guide if you will of the best logical steps I need to take in sequence please?

Came accross this today ----wow.

Cant seem to post the link from the start so you need to rewind -  some great bikes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NyI1j2b3TiM&t=468s


Lovely red Honda at 9.43/38.23 looks like an early twin.

Some nice bikes in the last half of the Bike Shed Motorcycle show London 2022- money bling.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eOeXfx-l4Bw

Ideally my next project will possibly be another 400 that someone has given up on or has a blown engine. This would enable me to use my spare engine & various other 400 parts that I have built up over the last 18 months.

I liked the look of  Nashers 500 & various 550 bits he is trying to sell for a widow - it might be a project too far - not to mention the distance involved. Anyone here know of a 400 at sensible money with a duff engine?

I might be completely wrong here but my memory of resistor plugs is that they seemed to appear at around the same time as carbon plug leads in the battle to stop inteference on your radio & to a neighbours TV. Certainly back in the 1960's you sometimes heard and even saw a crackle on your TV screen when certain vehicles were close to your house.

If you fit a none resistor plug to an engine with no resistor in the plug cap how does this affect the way it starts or runs - is it related to having carbon leads or copper leads?

Does the resistor aspect affect the timing?

I have the Dynatec coils & electronic ignition kit on my 400/4  that comes with carbon type leads and the plug connectors are just a metal connector with a rubber shroud so no resistor.

Should I use resistor plugs (NGK DR 8ES-L) in this situation what effect will it have to have none resistor plugs as I have fitted at present (NGK D8EA)?

I am somewhat ignorant as to what reistance does in the ignition circuit - I've read some articles here & elsewhere about the duration of the spark and how it affects the fuel burn but tbh it's way above my head.

One of my presents from the Gaffer.

Birthday T shirt by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

When I did my dynamic timing a few days ago I did it for 1/4 initially so today I spent over an hour trying to get the timing marks for 2/3 spot on at the same time.
A long winded process as one of the modules was close to it's limit on the clamp screws so undeterred persevered by way of moving the 1/4 module on the back plate then re-timing to 1/4 then again for 2/3 - repeat until you start to forget when it's too advanced / too retarded.

Conscious of not spending too much time with the engine running & not cooling with movement  I made most of the adjustments on a stop start basis. I have it pretty darn close for today - I will check it again tomorrow when I can stand up straight again. It was towards the end of the process that I sat in a chair with the bike lift raised to it's highest position.

It's not an issue when you rev the engine but at idle speed there does seem to be quite a bit more backfiring from the exhuast system than I would like- it's a Motad system what is the most likely cause please?
My carbs have not flooded with no petrol smell evident - engine idles at 1200 rpm whilst checking the timing in the F position.