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Messages - simonster
1
« on: February 10, 2015, 10:31:21 AM »
I really like the styling Mr T and the mudguard/ light arrangements. I started mine proper last March and is now finished except for the seat upholstery. Pics to follow very soon.
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2
« on: December 20, 2014, 09:57:28 PM »
I formed the shape using heavy gauge upholstery foam cut into shape with an electric kitchen knife with a one inch layer of cushion foam topper. The heavy foam provides the firm shape and the cushion foam topper gives it the soft cushion feel through the seat.
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3
« on: December 20, 2014, 08:39:08 PM »
I used 3mm ( actual measured thickness 2.75mm) to create my seat pan and it formed ok with a medium sized rubber mallet. It holds it shape perfectly but I personally wouldn't go any less than 2.5 mm as the costs and extra weight are negligible between those thicknesses. I've also formed a few other pieces in 3.5 mm and its strength seems to increase a lot for that extra mm and although its also workable you may need to add heat especially on tight corners or curves.
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4
« on: December 02, 2014, 12:00:55 AM »
Difficult to say without a pic but I'm guessing if they are in similar condition to how mine were, the pitting has been caused by corrosion of some form which has eaten into the alloy. I had the same issues on the left lower and with the left crankcase which was very badly pitted and I thought I'd never clear it after my first few runs, but it eventually came out after about 10'runs with 180 grit on a flappy disc. It may only be a fraction of a mm deep but even 180 grade paper will take some time and plenty of elbow to sand it out, but when your somewhere close switch to 400 then 800 and 1200 finishing off with 2000 or 2500. A buffing mop and cutting paste in is the best option for speed after 1200 grit, but if you have plenty of time on your hands you can still get the same finish at 2500 and fine cutting compound or similar. The forks also came out a treat too and was worth the effort. Your finish will only be as good as the effort and patience paid in. Good luck.
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5
« on: November 29, 2014, 06:41:18 PM »
I'm not going to chance it so ordered a set on fleabay.
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6
« on: November 29, 2014, 05:11:15 PM »
Buying new obviously would solve the issue, but wherever possible I've refurbed on this build and brass fittings should in principle never wear out given normal usage? Plus I was unsure as to whether new would have the same issues, metal on metal opposed to rubber ended needle and what working pressures these valves are tested to, given the pressure created in the fuel tank in warmer weather? Or should the fuel cock always be closed at the end of each journey?
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7
« on: November 29, 2014, 02:49:15 PM »
This is the set up, carbs 1 and 2 have had the seats polished and 3, 4 haven't. 1 and 2 are dropping fuel approx twice the amount per 30 mins to 3 and 4. Polishing had clearly reduced the loss but not fully sealed. I'm not sure of the evap rate but 10mm per 30 mins in a 6 mm inner diameter pipe seems excessive??
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8
« on: November 29, 2014, 12:38:50 PM »
I've polished the seat and needle on carbs one and two with a cotton bud and autosol and now testing it on the bench with clear fuel line to measure fuel loss, but at the moment the level is dropping about 10 mm in the pipe per 30 mins. Fuel is obviously breaching the needle contact but minutely. Is this expected on these carbs or should I expect a 100% seal?
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9
« on: November 27, 2014, 09:53:32 PM »
I would prefer to re seat or lap what looks to be an original 1.8 float valve and needle opposed to replacement. It may seat perfectly well, I'm not sure as the bike hasn't even seen fuel before today (whilst in my ownership). So while the carb is split it could be a wasted opportunity esp if it drains fuel once hooked up. Has anyone got any thoughts or words of wisdom?
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10
« on: November 27, 2014, 03:29:38 PM »
Yes you'd never guess they were forty odd year old. The quality in their parts and assembly puts the new stuff to shame and i'm sure you would never be able to refurb a modern clock to nearly new in forty years time.
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11
« on: November 26, 2014, 11:01:07 PM »
Before.
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12
« on: November 26, 2014, 10:57:38 PM »
I will report back how it handles and I reckon the bike should be ready for its first start in the next three weeks. I have the carbs waiting on the spring washers to arrive before assembly on the bike and the clocks to mount which I've just refurbed finished in their natural ss.
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13
« on: November 25, 2014, 06:41:03 PM »
It would have to be rideable at any speed or I won't be happy. Then definitely go with something similar to yours if it's needed, which I'm guessing it will if it effected yours that much. I may go for something second hand like the ginxer which will be easier to pick up at a second hand price. I know it sits high in your pic but I may extend the mounting pin to drop it under the tank if possible.
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14
« on: November 25, 2014, 02:48:18 PM »
I haven't planed for a damper unit hoping that the steering wouldn't be effected too much. If it is just too twitchy I'll probably start researching the easiest and best unit to fit, costs considered.
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15
« on: November 23, 2014, 10:16:16 AM »
Basic error, took the reading with the float valve fully seated rather than having the float body pitched to take the weight off the spring pin. All do actually read correct.
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